Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Costura 2007 #1: Casaco Orwell – 2007 Sewing Projects #1: Orwell Coat

Apresento-vos o casaco Orwell pronto:
Finally, I give you the finished Orwell Coat:
Especificações do modelo original:
Original model description:


Da autoria do designer Orwell, casaco sobretudo com encaixes laterais, bolsos com paleta, costuras avivadas com pespontos feitos à mão, completamente forrado, punhos nas mangas e cintos abotoados (trabalhados com vivo e pespontos) nas mangas e nas costas.
Designer coat by Orwell, features side panels, welt pockets with flaps, belted cuffs and back belts. Most of the seams and edges are piped and topstitched.
Fotos do modelo original e desenho: clicar aqui.
Photos and line drawing from the original model: click here.

Modificações ao modelo original:
Pattern alterations:


Não fiz o encaixe nos ombros e o feitio da gola e lapelas é ligeiramente diferente do original.
I skipped the shoulder detail; the collar/lapels shape is different from the original.

Material (ver também Casaco Orwell #3: Lista de material):
Notions (also see Orwell Coat #3: Notions):

2,5m de tecido (feltro de excelente qualidade para casacos) com 1,40m de largura;
Fabric: 2,5m of excellent quality wool felt (width: 1,4m);
1,85m de forro (cetim preto);
Lining: black satin, 1,85m (width: 1,4m);
13m de fita de viés branca de algodão, largura média;
White cotton bias tape (medium width): 13m;
13m de cordão de 4mm;
White cording (4mm): 13m;
2 chumaços médios;
2 medium sized shoulder pads;
2 tiras de material de acolchoar para as cabeças das mangas;
2 stripes of quilting foam;
3 carrinhos de linha de torçal branca (30m) para fazer os pespontos;
3 spools of white buttonhole twist;
Linha preta e linha branca de coser à máquina;
Black thread and white thread;
8 botões grandes;
8 big buttons;
4 botões médios (para os bolsos);
4 medium buttons (for the pockets);
1,5m de entretela tecida de espessura média (0.8m de largura);
Medium weight woven interfacing, 1,5m (width: 0.8m);
1,5m de entretela de malha de espessura fina (0.8m de largura);
Thin knitted interfacing: 1,5m (width: 0.8m);

Molde base – Base pattern:
Utilizei o molde do casaco 107 da Burda 11/2006 e modifiquei-o para reproduzir as características base do casaco Orwell (ver Casaco Orwell #1: Planeamento e Casaco Orwell #2: O Molde).
I used the pattern from BWOF 11/2006 Coat 107 and I tapered the pattern to reproduce the Orwell Coat style lines (ver Orwell Coat #1 – Planning and Orwell Coat #2 - The pattern)

Confecção do casaco - Project notes:
Casaco Orwell #4: O corte - Cutting
Casaco Orwell #5: A entretela – Interfacing Resolutions
Casaco Orwell #6: Entretela II – Interfacing II
Casaco Orwell #7: O forro – The lining
Casaco Orwell #8: Ajustes finais – Fine tuning the fit
Casaco Orwell #9: Costuras avivadas – Piped seams
Casaco Orwell #10: Paletas dos bolsos – Pocket flaps
Casaco Orwell #11: Paletas, cintos e costuras da frente – Pocket flaps, belts and front seams
Casaco Orwell #12: Bolsos com paleta – Welt pockets with flaps
Casaco Orwell #13: O corpo do casaco e as costuras verticais – Coat’s body and vertical seams
Casaco Orwell #14: A gola e as vistas (1ª parte) – Collar and facings (Part one)
Casaco Orwell #15: A gola e as vistas (2ª parte) – Collar and facings (Part two)
Casaco Orwell #16: Gola, lapelas e pespontos na bainha – Collar, lapels and hem topstitching
Casaco Orwell #17: As mangas (1ª parte) – The sleeves (Part one)
Casaco Orwell #18: As mangas (2ª parte) – The sleeves (Part two)
Casaco Orwell #19: Aplicação das mangas – Inserting the Sleeves
Casaco Orwell #20: Costurar o forro - Sewing the lining

Deixo-vos agora com algumas fotos de detalhe:
I leave you with some detail photos:

O bolso:
The pocket:


Os botões (por fora e por dentro):
Buttons (right side and wrong side):

Os cintos atrás:
Back belts:
O fole do forro atrás:
Back lining:
O pormenor do forro cosido à mão nos punhos e a dobra de forro na junção com a manga:
Lining cuff detail: the lining cuff is hand stitched to the sleeve; next picture shows the small fold on the lining sleeve:

O punho:
The cuff:
A bainha e o forro junto à vista da frente:
Front edge corner showing the lining and the hem:
Fotos do casaco no manequim:
Pictures of the coat on the dressform:


Mais fotos minhas a usar o casaco:
More pictures of me wearing the coat:


A Els (Obrigada Els!) fez-me uma sugestão fantástica! No seu comentário forneceu-me o link para este download grátis da Burda:
Els (Thank you Els!) left a comment suggesting this bag (Burda free download):
É a carteira ideal para este casaco e como me sobrou vivo vou tentar encontrar o mesmo tecido ou semelhante para fazer esta carteira!
This is the perfect bag for the Orwell Coat! I still have some piping left and I will try to find some of the same fabric or a similar one; I'm definitely going to make this beautiful bag!

Também bordei à mão uma etiqueta para o casaco:
I also hand made a label for this coat:
Espero que tenham gostado! Quero agradecer a todas o apoio, os comentários de encorajamento e o facto de terem partilhado este projecto comigo! Dedico este casaco a todas vós!
I hope you enjoyed this project! I want to thank everybody for the support, the encouraging comments and for joining me in this sewing adventure! I dedicate this coat to all of you!

E agora… Tenho mesmo é de descansar…
And now... I really must get some rest…

33 comments:

Stephanie said...

Wow, wow, wow. That is fantastic. I am completly in love with your coat! Great job.
You have to make the bag it would be perfect.

LMH said...

Totally fabulous & amazingly wonderful in every possible way. Truly. You should be Very, Very Proud. I really admire what you've done here, & I hope you're going to wear that coat to death during what remains of the cold weather.

And now I want to see what you make next, so don't rest for too long!

lisa

berry said...

CONGRAAAAAAAAAAATULATION!!!!!!!
This ist really perfection and a pleasure to look at. I envy you ;)!!

toya said...

girl, you are the bomb,, MAGNIFICENT!!!

Anonymous said...

Tany,
congrats!!!! it's awsome and chime in with the rest of the gang, You really have every reason to be proud of what you have accomplished.
I love that little furry friend too<3

Marita said...

Sorry! forgot to put my name in it:-( old age or something, maybe! LOL

Anonymous said...

I've viewed the construction from start to finish - awesome! You must be very pleased with the end result. Your work is so neat and precise. Looking forward to seeing your next project.

Els said...

I enjoyed reading about and seeing the pictures at the different stages about the Orwell coat. Your impeccable sewing techniques turned this garment into a real Tany coat. Congratulations and thanks for sharing the process of this beautiful coat.
Mucho obrigada .

knit_tgz said...

Quem me dera costurar um décimo do que tu costuras... mas sou um zero na costura (e a minha avó era modista de roupas de cerimónia, mas eu não herdei a paciência e o jeito!) O casaco está espectacular e perfeitíssimo!

Vou dar uma volta pelo teu blogue a ver se tens alguma sugestão de projectos simples para principiantes!

KayBee said...

What can I say, what wasn't said before.... it's a real stunner.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!

Done By Tuesday said...

Oh! It looks so great! I've been watching this coat progress and I'm so happy to see the finished product! You must be so proud!! You should be!

I can't WAIT to see what you start now :D Great job! I love it so much!

Belinda said...

Stunning, amazing, impeccable! Congratulations Tany! I love reading your blog. It's one of my favourites. Your attention to detail and tailoring skills are to be admired. Thanks for taking the time to share and document your journey. I enjoyed reading every little step. I hope you wear the coat for many, many years and don't mind being stopped in the street by admirers. :)

Tiger Feet said...

I am overwhelmed by the quality of your work, it's superb, such elegant details!

Do you sew 'out of season,' ie, did you decide to make this coat for next fall / winter, or are you wearing it now? I'm thinking of starting my first major coat project now, to have ready for fall '07.

Laura said...

This is absolutely stunning! Your ability and attention to details are absolutely overwhelming. I'm in awe
I must make such a coat!
Laura Lo

Mamã Martinho said...

Tany,

Estou sem palavras! Ficou bem melhor do que poderia imaginar!
Divinal!!!!!!!
Obrigada por colocares as tuas fotos com o casaco vestido, dá para ter uma ideia muito melhor de como fica.;)

Bjs

Mónica

Luis Martinho said...

Bem, eu sou o Marido da Mamamartinho e acho que um casaco destes para homem ia ser um fenómeno e passava a moda. Muitos parabéns, a Mónica foi-me esplicando, mas superou as minhas espectativas.

Luis Martinho

madhatter said...

LOVE it!
It´s perfectly stitched, it´s good looking and you´ll get MANY looks with that coat!

All I can do is bow - in awe!

Sharon said...

Tany - this is absolutely gorgeous! I so enjoyed seeing the photos of the progress of the coat. Your attention to detail was incredible and it shows in the final product. Congratualations on the completion of this coat.

I am looking forward to more projects from you!

stacy said...

I have been watching you make this coat and am just in love with the finished product. This coat is fantastic and you look great in it too.

Maja said...

Congratulations! The coat is stunning! I love every single detail of it! Your sewing skills are amazing! I'm in awe!

Abi said...

Tany Just sensational, Well done

Erica B. said...

I've followed your progress on this coat from the beginning and it was truly worth the wait. It is absolutely amazing! Just beautiful and you wear it well!

Summerset said...

Wow! So fabulous! Wear it with pride, your work is amazing!

Peggy said...

I've enjoyed following your progress on this coat. You look fantastic in it.

Rita said...

Absolutamente espectacular!

Anonymous said...

adorei o casaco esta o maximo. estou anciosa por o ver ao vivo. já agora o que vais fazer com o gato ? uma gola? estou a brincar beijos fatima

Leora Louise said...

Your work is amazing and so inspirational. I love the final look especially the perfect stitching. Brava!

Eva Lima said...

Estou sem palavras - fantástico!
E eu aqui a roer-me de invenja... adoáva ter esse talento.

filomena said...

Fica-te mesmo bem, excelente trabalho!!

Laura said...

Está lindo! Parabéns! Assim que puder, também vou tentar alguns projectos simples de tricot!

Dawn said...

Wow!

Isabelle said...

Oh, that is THE coat!! Dear Tany, I wanted to see your posts about the fabulous coat you were wearing in Paris today... It is absolutely stunning and I am so lucky to have seen it in person. Most of all I am so lucky to have seen *you* in person!! Thank you so much for the great time we had together.

Tany said...

Thank you Isabelle! This was a great sewing adventure and I'm glad you like it!
I thank you for meeting me; it was the best moment I had in Paris! I miss you already!