Tuesday, January 9, 2007

Casaco Orwell #4: Corte - Orwell Coat #4: Cutting

Bem, voltemos ao casaco… Antes de cortar, é importante pré-tratar todos os tecidos que possam encolher porque na maior parte dos trabalhos de costura temos que usar muito o ferro e vapor e, como sabem, os tecidos (principalmente à base de fibras naturais) podem encolher com a humidade e calor. Nste casaco o tecido ficaria estragado se o lavasse na máquina primeiro, por isso passei-o com muito vapor usando um pano de cambraia entre o ferro e o tecido para não o marcar; o ideal mesmo é usar uma prensa de vapor ou levá-lo à lavandaria para fazerem a passagem nessa prensa. Já tive muitos desgostos por não ter feito o pré-tratamento dos tecidos. O cetim levou o mesmo tratamento mas com muito menos vapor e, quanto às entretelas, só pré-tratei a de tecido (enrolei num toalhão turco húmido e deixei de um dia para o outro; depois foi só estender a secar). As outras (de malha ou tipo feltro), simplesmente dou-lhes com um bocado de vapor sem encostar o ferro antes de as alinhavar ao tecido. Tudo isto fui aprendendo lendo livros sobre o assunto, antes os meus métodos não eram tão meticulosos.
Well, let’s get back to the Orwell coat…Before cutting it’s very important to pre-shrink every fabric subject to heat and steam. In this case I steamed press the fashion fabric very carefully, using lots of steam and a press cloth (this fabric isn’t suitable for machine or hand washing); if you get the chance, the best way is to use an ironing press to do this (my next investment!). I pressed the satin lining using less steam. To pre-shrink the woven interfacing I like to use a wet towel to roll-wrap the interfacing during the night and then let it dry well during the next day. As for the non-woven interfacing, I prefer the steam-shrink method before I baste it to the fabric.

Neste momento já cortei o tecido (falta ainda cortar o forro), estou a marcá-lo com alinhavos e também já estou a colocar a entretela onde é preciso (para já ainda não a colei com o ferro). Gosto de ir cortando a entretela peça a peça e alinhavá-la pelas linhas de costura ao tecido; acho que isto é um pouco diferente do que a maior parte das costureiras faz, mas é assim que me habituei. Se tiver tempo, amanhã mostro mais fotografias deste processo e falo um bocadinho sobre a entretela e onde aplicá-la.
At this point the fashion fabric is cut (I haven’t cut the lining yet) and I’m thread basting every piece. I like to cut the interfacing piece by piece and then thread baste it together with the fabric before I fuse it. I think this is a little unorthodox but that’s the way I do it. I’ll try to post some detailed pictures of this process tomorrow.

Na figura podem ver o tecido dobrado em dois no sentido do comprimento. Os moldes têm marcadas umas setas que correspondem ao "correr do tecido" (isto para quem nunca utilizou moldes mas está a ler isto para aprender ;) ) Estas setas devem apontar todas para o mesmo lado e devem ficar todas paralelas às orlas longitudinais do tecido, daí a fita-métrica para medir essa distância). Tenham em atenção que neste caso é preciso contar com os valores de costura, que não estão incluídos no molde. Os moldes são presos ao tecido por alfinetes.
Here you can see some of the pattern pieces prior to the cut. If you know how to use patterns, you know how to place the pieces correctly. All the pattern grainlines are parallel to the selvage unless otherwise stated (hence the metric tape). It’s very important to keep in mind that these pattern pieces have no seam allowances when you pin them to the fabric. Save some room for seam and hem allowances.

Já agora mostro-vos o pormenor da entrada do bolso que, ao contrário das outras peças, não se corta com margem de costura; depois vamos ver porquê.
Detail: the pocket vent is cut with no seam allowances on both front panels.

Aqui podem ver que estou a marcar o tecido com alinhavos e talvez consigam notar a entretela junto ao tecido, cortada com valores de costura ligeiramente mais pequenos:
Here you can observe the thread basting process as I like to do it and maybe you can see (black on black) the interfacing cut with a smaller seam allowance width:
Espero que estejam a gostar de partilhar este projecto comigo! Para não ser muito chato para quem não quer ou precisa de saber todos estes detalhes, vou tentar intercalar com as peças que fiz no ano passado! Ah, e ainda tenho de vos mostrar o Bolero Gedifra!! Tá quase feito! Vou mostrar algumas fotos antes de bloquear. Até à próxima!
I hope you are enjoying this project as much as I am! I'll be showing some of my past work sometimes, so those of you who prefer inspirational posts won't feel bored! Ah, I almost forgot! There’s also the Gedifra Bolero, "The Yarn Eater"; it’s almost done! I'll post some pictures soon, before I block it!

8 comments:

Mamã Martinho said...

Oi Tany

estou a adorar toda esta explicação que estás a fazer, até que me dá vontade de fazer algo assim! Mas não é o meu forte e sei disso. No entanto acho super util toda esta explicação, até porque tiras duvidas e ensinas as portuguesas sobre costura. Continua. Eu venho cá sempre visitar. Estou desejosa de ver o bolero. Tiras-te o esquema da revista Tricot? É que acho que tenha lá por casa este modelo ...

Bjs

Mónica

Tany said...

Olá Mónica!
Ainda bem que estás a gostar! O casaco é um projecto difícil, eu sei, mas calhou ser a coisa que estava a pensar fazer no momento... De qualquer forma dá sempre para aprender algumas coisas úteis para aplicar em coisas mais simples se quiseres tentar. Gostava que houvesse em Portugal mais gente a experimentar a costura, foi por isso que comecei este blog. Quanto ao bolero, foi mesmo dessa revista que o tirei, mas atenção que há um erro nas instruções! Há lá uma parte na gola e nas vistas da frente que diz para repetir 3 vezes (depois de trocar o ponto do avesso para o direito) e é 23!! Vou ver se escrevo sobre isso hj à noite. No tricô não tenho tanta prática e faço menos coisas, mas estou a aprender e a tentar melhorar! Beijinhos e obrigada!

Caroline said...

I'm very impressed with your sewing ability! Your dress is great...!

Tany said...

Thank you Caroline! You are very kind!

Lisa said...

Hi Tany,

I went back and read all your interesting posts much more thoroughly now that I have time, and I have questions: what do you use for seam allowances? 1"? I'm thinking of switching to doing at least some things this way too. I think it gives you extra control. I suppose they wouldn't do it this way in couture if it didn't. I hand baste a lot, but I haven't yet tried thread basting. It might be nice not have to add SA's to patterns, though I generally don't really mind doing that, since it gives you the freedom to add different SAs in different places. What I do hate is removing SAs from patterns that have them in order to alter, and then having to put them back. Now that's annoying!

Why do you thread baste interfacing on? I'm curious (i.e.I want to know if I should be doing this too). What kind of thread do you use and how do you get it all out after you've fused?

I like the grey dress; it fits well, it's terrifically sewn and finished, and your version is much cooler than Patrones'. I didn't really like theirs all that much, but I like yours. You made great choices all around on that one.

Last question: on the coat, are you going to do the sashiko-esque top stitching? What kind of thread are you going to use for that? Are you going to use white? I also want to make something with that kind of topstitching detail. I just love that coat; I can't wait to see yours & I can't believe that the German BWOF has things the English one doesn't. So unfair! They must think the American sewing market is a lot stodgier. Hmm, sad to say, but, on the whole, they would be right, sigh.
LMH

Tany said...

Hi LMH! It’s so nice to have you here!
Let me try to answer all your questions:
1 – SAs: generally I use 2” on hems, 3/4” on normal seams, but I trim SAs before I sew them. I serge them, actually (unless they are to be graded)… I hate fraying SAs, I can’t stand them while sewing and handling fabric; the thing about thread basting every sewing line is that you won’t need exact SAs to sew accurately, so you don’t add them to the pattern itself, only to the fabric as you cut. Don’t get me wrong: I’m not against SAs on patterns, I think adding them makes sense if you sew industrial. No way doing all that hand work, it would be unprofitable! But me, I just sew for pleasure, I have no deadlines, I don’t have to make it fast.
2 – Thread basting (I don’t know if I have used the right expression here, I just mean hand-basting with basting thread on a running stitch): There is a special kind of cotton thread to do hand baste, it comes in white or black color; It’s OK to use this thread if the fabric isn’t too sheer because this kind of thread is thicker than normal sewing thread; it doesn’t get so many knots (it doesn’t twist as much) and you don’t have to use bee-wax on it. It also breaks easily (I believe cotton leftovers are used to produce this kind of thread). On sheer fabrics I use silk thread.
3 – I use a long running stitch to baste interfacing and fabric together; If you don’t have a large ironing board, it keeps the interfacing from falling out of place or slide accidentally when you press-steam it; I could do the basting after I fuse the interfacing on but I prefer to hand baste every line (using the traced pattern as a guide, pinned on top) first so after I press it, it is ready and neat to start sewing. Testing and preshrinking is very important here. The basting thread doesn’t get caught in the glued surface because it’s a running stitch; it crosses fabric and interfacing together, it’s not in between the two. I remove basting threads after I sew each seam together, very close to the thread line, using it as a guide (I’ll post some pictures soon)opposite to the method that uses SAs width to guide your sewing. All this process is time consuming, but it pays in accuracy.
4 – Yes, I’m going to do all that topstitching by hand, as a small running stitch, after I sew the piping together with the seams; I’ll use thick white thread, the kind used on hand made buttonholes!! I will be documenting every step of the way too. It’s a lot of hand work but I think this coat deserves it! We can do a sew along with this coat if you wish! You can make it like the picture as I intend to, or make something different out of it, like reverse the color scheme! Just picture it all in white with black piping and topstitching!
I hope this answers all your questions, I’m thrilled to have you here and do come back! I’ll be visiting you often too!

LMH said...

Hi Tany,

Thanks so much for your reply! You've been doing so much writing it's a wonder you have any time left to sew.

I've decided: now that I've seen you do it, I want to start leaving SAs off and thread basting too. No matter how precise I try to be while cutting, the SAs never come out perfectly, and I often end up using my chalkoner (a kind of tailor's chalk tool--I LOVE this thing)to draw in sewing lines, especially where it gets tricky, like collars and lapels. Hmm. It's too late with the Gunex skirt, but my next project, yes. I'm guessing also that adding estimated SAs as you cut also allows lots of flexibility in trimming them down to different measurements in different places. I didn't realize you trimmed the SAs before sewing, either. I thought you trimmed them after. I've only seen this demonstrated in books on couture sewing, and sometimes these aren't as detailed as I'd like, so it's wonderful to see someone like you actually putting it into practice and documenting it.

I love the idea of basting the fusible interfacing to hold it in place. I'm going to start doing that too.

People always think that basting and thread basting means extra work, which it does, but the reward is that you don't have to worry so much about whether something is going to go wrong, which makes the extra work worth it. It's insurance.

Considering I can't seem to get the gunex skirt done, I don't think I could make another coat right now. :( But I was thinking of using the Orwell coat as inspiration for tinkering with Hot Patterns' Artful Dodger Pheobe jacket. I'm also thinking about doing a running topstitch on either side of the gunex skirt seams. That might be really cool. Of course, it could be awful too. Hmm.

Tany said...

Hi again LMH! You are right, I feel so tired... I must slow it down or I won't make it in good health! About the trimming of SAs, this is very unorthodox (all the books I’ve read tell me otherwise); I do it when I’m absolutely sure about the fit. I baste everything together and I try it on my body before I actually serge the seams… Just to be safe. The Orwell coat fabric is my dream fabric: it doesn’t fray! (Hurray!) I will trim SAs to about 1cm using my serger, but I won’t thread it to reduce bulk. This fabric reminds me of felt, if you know what I mean. The colour is the purest black I’ve ever seen (I love black clothes)! It behaves as a dust magnet but I’ll just have to live with that. I can imagine what you are going through not sewing… Sometimes we have to stop and refill batteries! When you’re ready, just let it flow! I think making test seams with scraps of fabric is a good idea on the gunex skirt. You can try serging with contrasting coloured threads too! Just work the details, give it a try!