Saturday, January 31, 2009

Seja então o casaco Vogue 2111 Christian Dior –Let it be the V2111 Dior coat then

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Pronto, a decisão está tomada e vou ter de viver come ela; em consequência comprometo-me a terminar a colecção Baunilha e Chocolate primeiro (não faria sentido que ficasse incompleta depois de fazer este casaco), mas também não deixarei de fazer pelo menos mais três elementos do conjunto Neo-Punk Britânico (dando prioridade aos tartans), mesmo entrando já na Primavera. As peças serão leves e juvenis e se não as usar muito este ano, paciência.

Vamos então ver mais uns detalhes do molde e dos tecidos que vou usar, porque sei que devem estar curiosos(as)! Aqui têm a parte de trás do envelope, que tem as medidas (este é o tamanho 12, já com o novo sistema de medidas actualmente usado (os moldes mais antigos têm nºs diferentes e convém sempre escolher o tamanho consultando o tamanho do Busto/Anca, que vem sempre listado; neste caso vejam as letras vermelhas por baixo do nº que identifica o molde no topo esquerdo – 12 34 26 – isto quer dizer tamanho 12, busto 34 (em polegadas) e anca 36 (também em polegadas). Para mim compro sempre moldes com Busto 34 ou 36; como estes moldes têm sempre bastante folga, 34” = 86cm devem servir-me, aliás como nos novos Vogue, onde também costumo traçar o tamanho 12.

Podem ver melhor também a lista de materiais, correspondentes às versões curta e comprida do fato; eu farei a versão curta do casaco e, se sobrar tecido, mais tarde farei o vestido.

Outra curiosidade é o aspecto geral destes moldes, um pouco diferente dos moldes actuais:

Vêem os losangos numerados? São as marcas de aposição; podem ver também que além das linhas de corte (o molde tem margens incluídas) também existem marcações para as linhas por onde se cose; este molde é da vista do vestido.

Na próxima foto podem ver a representação de todas as peças do molde do casaco; há partes para cortar em tecido, partes diferentes para a entretela e ainda para o forro:

Estes são os botões que vou usar:

Numa tentativa de fazer com que o tecido seja suficiente para o vestido, pensei em utilizar Jersey duplo cor pérola somente nas vistas (é da mesma qualidade que o que usei no meu vestido de Natal); ainda estou a estudar esta solução:

Quanto ao forro de empastar (“underlining” ou “triplure”), vou usar entretela termo-colante:

Creio que para este tecido será a melhor solução; se estivesse a usar um tecido texturado que não aguentasse entretela termo-colante, poderia usar tecido de algodão previamente alinhavado nas margens das peças em bouclé e empastado se necessário.

O forro é tafetá da mesma cor do bouclé:

Os tecidos estão preparados e amanhã vou começar a cortar (hoje tenho a família para visitar). Até breve!

I made my choice and the bouclé is on the cutting table now; the Vanilla and Chocolate collection will be finished first and the tartans will wait and even go into spring if necessary. I have my mind set on making at least three more garments for the British Neo-Punk collection before I close my fall/winter list.

So let’s see some details of this vintage pattern, I know how you must be curious! Here’s the back of the envelope, where you can see the sizing, which corresponds to the new sizing system already (If someone knows how to date this pattern, please let me know – I’m guessing the late 60’s, early 70’s). When picking the size of a vintage pattern, you should guide yourself by the Bust/Hip measurements (the red numbers just next to the pattern reference on the top left corner of the back of the pattern) because the sizing system may be different from what we use now (I’ve seen size 12 patterns with 32” or less for bust measurement).

Here is the fabric/notions list for the shorter (view A) and the longer (view B) versions of this ensemble. I’ll be making the view A of the coat and if there’s enough fabric left, I’ll make the dress (later, because I won’t have the time for it right after finishing the coat).

Another intriguing detail is the general appearance of these patterns, different from the contemporary Vogue patterns:

The black diamonds are the notches and they are all numbered for better reference; there are also stitching lines and small dots (there are also bigger dots). This pattern is part of the dress facing.

In the next picture you can see all the coat pattern pieces; there are different pattern pieces for the lining and for the interfacing:

These are the buttons that I plan on using:

I will also use a different fabric for the facings, and this fix might save me enough fabric for the dress. This is a stable knit fabric (the same quality as the one used for my Christmas dress):

For the underlining I’ll use fusible interfacing:

I think this is the best choice for my fashion fabric; there are fabrics that would benefit of a non-fusible though (the instructions mention non-fusible for the brocade, for example; there’s a logic reason for the non-fusible: you can’t padstitch directly on some fabrics and adding a non-fusible underlining enables you to padstitch on the underlining and not directly on the fashion fabric).

The taffeta lining is the same color as the fashion fabric:

I’ve pre-treated the fabrics and will start cutting tomorrow (today I still have some family visits to do). See you soon!

25 comments:

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

I don't know about anyone else but I am soooo thrilled that you decided to work on the vintage Dior pattern first!

Cindy said...

This is an exciting project. Can't wait to see your progress.

CreativeBusyHands-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Can't wait to see the final product. I am sure it will be beautiful. I loved the fabric you chose. -luiza

Christina said...

I'm so glad you chose to start on the vintage coat. Your fabrics are perfect.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

This jacket will be beautiful :) I'm so happy you picked this one to do!

Erica B. said...

That is going to be gorgeous!

Nancy K said...

This is going to be gorgeous! I am old enough to have sewn with single size Vogue patterns and especially in the designer patterns, you got your money's worth in the pattern and they expected that you'd be using classic tailoring techniques. Isn't there a copyright date on the edge of the pattern? Where it folds to the back of the envelope?

Rachel said...

This is going to be so gorgeous. I love the way you name your collections.

Chuana said...

Olá Tany, não é difícil dizer que tens trabalho pela frente, fico ansiosa por ver o resultado de mais uma saída das tuas mãos!

Bjs
Chuana

loopylulu said...

I echo the excitement about you working on this collection first. I can't wait to see what you produce.

Tany said...

Nancy K: I looked everywhere for a copyright date and couldn't find it; from this website: "http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/index.php?title=Category:Vogue&from=Vogue+2056" I would place this pattern in the late 60s (probably April/May 1969), since V2109 and V2112 are listed and dated in this timerange.

Thank you all!
Obrigada a todas!

Summerset said...

There might be a copyright on the instruction sheet somewhere. It is usually printed very, very small at the bottom edge of the back of the sheet, the side with the actual instructions. It is a bit odd that the year is not on the envelope somewhere, I think by the late 60's most companies were putting the year son the envelopes. Maybe just not this particular line of Vogue.

The choices are beautiful and well thought out - I'm sure this will be a great ensemble!

senaSews said...

I really can't wait to see how you do your magic thing and sew another wonderful garment. The pattern is amazing. I love it!

Sismada said...

Sim amiga finalemente! sim, mas terá de ser semana a semana pois estou de semana em outra terra e sem comptador pessoal ;) Beijinhos e até muito breve ;)

caseykoester said...

It's going to be so lovely Tany! Can't wait to see your progress.

Bunny said...

Ooo, I am glad you decided on this coat. Watching your process will be exciting!

CORTEYGRIF said...

Bela escolha Tany
um modelo perfeito para pessoas altas!
o esquema dos moldes muito bem exemplificado gostei!
boas costuras
e feliz semana
besitos
ROSA

Celina said...

Deve ir ficar um assombro!! Eu também sou fã dos cortes dos anos 60.
Ultimamente ando com vontade de fazer um robe, para andar por casa, mas comprido e com um corte do género dos casacos anos 60, vi dois num filme do Hitchcock e são peças super elegantes, tão bonitas como certos casacos. Porque não andar elegante até em casa? Não pude deixar de me lembrar disto quando vi o croquis da versão comprida deste casaco.
Agora só quero ver como vai ficar!
Beijinhos

mem said...

Hello Tany , I love your choice . I emember this era well . I was beginning to sew then and watch my neighbour Inez sew clothes like this for customers and that was certainly in the late 60s . The only fusibles avilable then were awful and a bit like fusing cardboard onto your fabric.I doubt very much that a Vogue designer pattern would have had instructions to use what was then very poor quality product. It was also the era of melting cotton which came under the "Drima " brand . I remember my mother making me a whole outfit out of linen with this thread and then being horrified as the seams disintegrated with ironing !!! It didnt stay on the market for long!It was another reason I hated her making clothes for me ! I love the fabric .Its a really lovely choice . Marianne in Australia

Vicki said...

Tany this is going to be lovely. Glad you chose this garment to do next. And thanks for all the details.

Ana Carina said...

Que bom!!! Foi bem escolhido este modelo (que era o que eu queria!).

Os bot
oes foram escolhidos a dedo! São perfeitos para o modelo vintage.


Beijinhos e boas costuras

Tany said...

Marianne: Thank you so much for your input! I'm always glad to find out about details on this era, because it's my favorite fashion wise; I can see myself wearing most of the 60's dress styles and I love their structured/tailored look.

Berry said...

I'm glad you picked the dior coat first. I can't wait to see your version of it. I've decided to try to sew a coat (the 1st real one) and I'm sure your posts will be a helpful source of precious information. Yay!

margi said...

Hi Tany-The new sizing was introduced in the late 60's if that helps. Based on the style and the hair my thought is the pattern is from that timeframe. By the way, the interfacing you are using looks very familiar! :)

Hugs-Margi

Cristina Duarte said...

Seus trabalhos são lindos,fiquei impressionada com seu capricho.Estou empolgada para aprender costura.UM ABRAÇO CRISTINA DUARTE