Friday, December 26, 2008

Vestido de Natal: Vogue1056 - Christmas outfit: Vogue1056

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Concluído em apenas um dia, aqui está o vestido que usei no jantar de véspera de natal.

Modelo original: V1056 modelo de designer Tom & Linda Platt: vestido evasé acima do joelho com mangas raglan e punhos elásticos, tem detalhe no decote na frente (literalmente as mangas passam por dentro de uma abertura da frente) e fecho invisível no meio das costas.

Tecido: Jersey duplo (é igual no avesso e no direito e tem mais corpo e menos elasticidade que o Jersey normal) em vermelho vivo.

Alterações ao modelo original: Na minha opinião, este modelo tem demasiada folga; tive que cortar um tamanho abaixo (tamanho 10) ao que costumo usar nos moldes Vogue. O forro que usei também é diferente do especificado: usei forro próprio para tecidos de malha.

Detalhes:

Decote:

Fecho invisível MESMO invisível!

O forro de malha fininha e as vistas no interior:

As cavas no avesso, onde o forro é cosido à mão à cava do vestido (reparem também que as margens de costura da parte superior da manga – ombros – estão aparadas para que o ombro assente bem por ser uma costura arredondada):

O detalhe das bainhas, no forro e no vestido; as margens não precisam de qualquer tratamento (nem, usei a corta-e-cose!) pois não desfiam nem desmancham! Este tecido é mesmo espectacular de trabalhar!

Conclusão: Este molde tem alguns aspectos a ter em atenção: primeiro, é cotado como sendo de execução fácil e aqui discordo: para mim é intermédio (a aplicação e o acabamento das vistas não é fácil). Para resultar, deve ser feito em tecidos de elasticidade moderada (Jersey normal não deve resultar bem) e como já disse, creio que tem demasiada folga para ser feito num tecido com alguma elasticidade, além dos ombros serem bastante largos e num tamanho maior não assentarem bem. É muito importante ir passando a ferro à medida que se costura neste vestido, e ter cuidados extras com as costuras redondas nos ombros.

Este molde foi-me ofererecido pela Adrienne, o meu muito obrigada a ela!

Espero que tenham tido um excelente Natal e que se comecem a preparar para entrar no Novo Ano em beleza! Até à próxima!


Made in a record time (one day) this is the dress I made for Christmas Eve!

Original model: V1056 Tom and Linda Platt dress: Slightly flared, lined dress, above mid-knee, has yoke extending into long sleeves with casings, fitted through the bust, front twist detail at neck and invisible back zipper.

Fabric: bright red double knit

Alterations: In my opinion this model has excess ease for a double knit dress. I downsized for a 10. Instead of the china silk lining, I opted for special purpose knit lining. I also didn’t find the hook&eye on the back necessary.

Details:

Front neckline detail:

The invisible zipper (it’s really invisible, that’s why you don’t see it!)

The knit lining and the facings:

The wrong side of the armholes, where the lining is hand tacked to the dress (also note that I trimmed the upper shoulder/sleeve SAs to reduce bulk on this area)

The dress and lining hems; there is no need of seam finishing with this fabric (I didn’t use my serger for this dress) thanks to the double knit fabric! I really love sewing with double knit!

Conclusion: This pattern has some issues: first it’s rated as easy and I must disagree; this pattern should be rated as intermediate (the facing construction/finishing is not that straight forward in my opinion). To make it work you should really use a moderate stretch fabric and, as I said before, beware of the ease. Close to no ease should be enough, so look for the final measurement markings on the pattern no pick your size! I also think that if I had used my usual size 12 the shoulders would be too wide, so take that into account too (a first fitting should be performed in order to determine the shoulder fit). It is VERY IMPORTANT to press as you go and to take extra care on the rounded seams (clipping/notching). The facing seams should be pressed open and graded before turning the facings to their right side. Mind the shoulder seams (I trimmed them to 1/8” to reduce bulk).

ETA: This pattern was a gift from Adrienne! Thank you my friend!

I hope you all had an excellent Christmas and are preparing for a Great New Year! See you!

43 comments:

Sheila said...

Happy Holiday and you look Fabulous!

nowaks nähkästchen said...

I hope you had a great christmas! The dress looks really great!

This dress is on my list since the pattern came out, only I didn't find the right fabric so far. All double knits I can get here are so thick, that I think the front would get to bulgy.

After examining the pattern I came to the conclusion, that the ease is needed because the lining has no stretch? But I'll find out. (If I get fabric...)

Dei said...

Wow! I wasn't that impressed with the pattern when I first saw. You have made me see I was SO wrong. This looks absolutely great on you and thanks for your sewing guidance. Happy Holidays.

Summerset said...

LOL, I can't believe it. I have this pattern and was planning to make it - in red(!) - in January or February!!! I will reference your post when I make mine as you have posted some interesting comments regarding the pattern that I was questioning for myself - the neck/shoulders in particular.

You have done a marvelous job with it and look wonderful wearing it. I love the tights, boots and chunky bracelets, too!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - another beautiful garment! Thank you for sharing such insightful comments on the construction - I am sure that quite a few of us purchased this pattern so your comments will be very illuminating during the construction process!

You look fantastic in it!

CRUZ BARRIENTOS said...

The dress came out Beautiful...great job...Happy Holidays, and a very happy healthy New Year.

Erica B. said...

Tany,
Like Dei said, I wasn't impressed at all when this pattern first came out, but it looks wonderful on you! I may re-evaluate this one!

Lory said...

You look stunning!!! I love the neckline detail. Dang, one day! You're a pro for sure. :):):):) You look wonderful, I hope you had a great holiday. :):)

Hugs,
Lory

melissa said...

Beautiful! I never noticed how nice that neckline is from the Vogue photo... And what is it with envelope patterns and excess ease, eh? I never get that from BWOF, Knip, or Patrones!

Frida said...

Perfect for Christmas! The details in the front are really cool.

peacockchic said...

wow that came out super cute!! Love it!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

You look absolutely fantastic! The dress is a perfect style for you. You did a wonderful job, as usual :)

Adrienne said...

This looks stunning on you! I loved this when it first came out but it did NOT look good on me lol

Nancy (nanflan) said...

What a beautiful dress! I have this pattern, too and hope to get it made one of these days.

Amanda S. said...

VERY cute! This is on my to-do list for spring. I plan to shorten the sleeves. I love yours and am so glad to see it modeled by you. You look great!

Sue said...

Your comments on this pattern are really intereting. You look terrific in this dress - you have styled it beautifully - so much better than the pattern cover!

Bunny said...

The dress is stunning on you an fit for a holiday evening! That neckline is really special and not something you can pick up on from the pattern envelope or detail drawings. Thanks for your tips on maneauvering this design.

Nina said...

How beautiful! Merry christmas to you and your family.

Best wishes,
Nina

Dana said...

Beautiful dress and I love your choice of a doubleknit for this pattern!


Merry Christmas!

Vicki W said...

What a beautiful dress! i lvoe the bodice detail.

Happy New Year!

Lori said...

Wow, fantastic dress, love the fabric.

Miss Linda said...

A beautiful dress, beautifully sewn! Thank you SO VERY MUCH for posting the details of your construction techniques and showing interior pictures of the garment. I am a beginning sewer, and I learn so very much from reading your posts!

Christina said...

The way you styled your dress with tights and boots makes it look sooo much better than the envelope photo. Beautiful work.

Ana'scloset said...

Fica-te super bem o vestido!!
No meu próximo trabalho também vou usar malha dupla. parace-me excelente para trabalhar e depois logo decido se uso esta malha para fazer uma saia que mandei vir da vogue...

Beijinhos

Adriana B. said...

It is gorgeous and is so YOU!

Daniela said...

Adoro o seu trabalho e gostaria de saber se aceita encomendas!

Vicki said...

What a perfect festive outfit. Your styling gives it a really funky edge. Great work as usual.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas(os) pelos elogios!
Thank you all for the compliments!
Gracias a todos!

Nowaks Nahkastchen: Well, I believe a stretch lining is more suitable for a dress like this,... The china silk would be luxurious though :).

Summerset: I'm not surprised at all that you have ths pattern on your sewing list!! I thought of you when I picked it!

CRUZ BARRIENTOS I feel very honored for your visit! Welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Daniela: Obrigada e bem-vinda ao Couture et Tricot! Quanto à pergunta, a resposta é não aceito encomendas pois por princípio costuro apenas para mim (com excepções muito raras para o namorado!). A costura é um hobby que gosto de partilhar para inspirar outros a costurar, não uma forma de ganhar a vida para mim. Tenho um bom emprego a tempo inteiro.
Beijinhos!

paco peralta said...

Tany.- está fantástico. elegiste un color divino. Estoy sorprendido respecto a lo que dices de la talla, y la verdad es que hay que comprobar muy bien la holgura de cada modelo. En este caso, la talla elegida te ajusta a la perfección. Un abrazo, Paco

KayB said...

What a cute little dress this is - and all put together in one day, wow, you are fast!

Celina said...

Eu li bem, concluído em apenas um dia?! Isso é demais! O vestido parece relativamente simples, mas tem acabamentos elaborados, quanto a mim, e forro etc... Espectacular. Claro que não preciso de dizer que adorei a cor, o vestido em si e o look em geral. Estás elegantérrima! (Estou a reconhecer as pérolas?)
Espero que tenhas tido um óptimo jantar e almoço de Natal, eu passei-os cheia de febre, mas já estou melhor.
Beijinhos e um excelente Ano Novo, se não vier cá antes ;)

Adelaide B said...

Very Lovely!

Lindsay T said...

Stunning dress! I'd expect to see this hanging in a fancy boutique.

AllisonC said...

Fabulous and very festive. I love how you've styled it, looks very vintage designer.

Sigrid said...

Lovely Christmas dress. You look fabulous.

Catarina said...

Está espectacular! Fabuloso! E fica-te tão bem. Parabéns!

Miss Sewing said...

Me encanta el vestido!!Muy bonito, con un corte sencillo,y el detalle del pecho le da un toque genial.Me gusta mucho...

Felices Fiestas!!

Besos
Ana

KateS said...

Wow Tany - I have to say I MUCH prefer your styling of the dress to Vogue's. Fantastic work!!

Alexandra said...

Gorgeous dress! So much prettier than on the pattern envelope. Love the neckline detail.

Bonnie D. said...

WOW, Tany!!! Gorgeous dress and just perfect for Christmas!!

Cennetta said...

Fabulous!

Ana Carina said...

É um vestido simples (com os seus detalhes trabalhosos) e muito elegante!

Definitivamente o vermelho é a tua cor...(nunca me esquecerei daquele fato assimetrico vermelho).

Beijinhos e boas entradas!

senaSews said...

Gorgeous! You look fabulous in your new dress!

Happy Holidays, senaSews