Friday, May 2, 2008

A Jaqueta Simplicity 3631: terminada - The Simplicity 3631 jacket: finished

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Esta foi a minha primeira experiência com moldes Simplicity e, a julgar pelos resultados, não será a última. Como já referi, ganhei este molde num concurso no podcast "Sew Forth Now" da Lori, em que a Simplicity foi patrocinadora e ofereceu dois moldes para serem sorteados. Resolvi fazer a jaqueta, inspirada pelas fabulosas versões que vi desde que este molde saiu, algumas feitas por pessoas que admiro muito. Podem ver uma série destas versões no PatternReview neste link:

Simplicity 3631 @ PatternReview

Cada uma delas obedece a uma interpretação pessoal do modelo, que é bastante adaptável. A não perder, as versões da Adrienne, Carolyn, Erica, Isabelle, Linda e Toya .

Sei que estes moldes não são conhecidos em Portugal, no Brasil, e em alguns países da Europa, por isso resolvi dar especial atenção a este projecto, tentando documentar os aspectos mais interessantes e o que resolvi fazer de diferente, para dar a conhecer este molde e para demonstrar uma interpretação possível, que passa pela escolha do tecido (piqué de algodão branco, neste caso), dos botões (botões de massa brancos com um efeito raspado prateado), das características que pretendemos adicionar ao modelo base e da escolha das técnicas de confecção.

No primeiro artigo: "A jaqueta Simplicity: o molde e considerações iniciais", abordei o meu plano para este projecto e as alterações que fiz ao molde base para conseguir um molde para o forro.

Depois, no artigo "Casas avivadas ou metidas: outro método", demonstrei como fiz as casas de botão, mostrei o detalhe da presilha das mangas e puderam também ver os botões:

No artigo "O forro e o elástico na cintura", puderam ver como forrei o casaco e como se faz o canal que leva o elástico para que a cintura fique permanentemente franzida. Mais alguns detalhes do forro:

O bolso (e os botões de reforço interiores):


Mais detalhes do forro e da cintura:



As tiras de atar da frente foram cosidas à mão, de maneira a que não se distinga bem onde começa a tira e acaba o elástico (algumas fotos parecem amarelas porque foram tiradas sem flash):



Depois no artigo "Jaqueta Simplicity: a banda da gola", mostrei como apliquei a banda da gola:


Aqui utilizei técnicas de coser à mão que estão muito bem explicadas neste tutorial da Summerset: "Fell Stitch vs. Slip stitch". O ponto que utilizei chama-se Fell Stitch em Inglês e não faço a mínima ideia de como se chama em Português. Já o utilizo há muitos anos (aprendi a costurar à mão, antes de ter uma máquina) e sempre lhe chamei ponto invisível.

Conclusão: A jaqueta ficou um espanto! Por ser branca tem que ser limpa cada vez que a uso, eheh, mas pronto. Recomendo vivamente este molde, que numa versão básica é muito fácil de fazer, mas que pode tornar-se tão elaborado quanto se desejar. É tudo uma questão de investir tempo e trabalho!

E pronto, depois de acabar a jaqueta, resolvi limpar a minha sala com uns passes de magia:

Se resultou? *ahem*, acho que não… Fiquem bem!


This was my first attempt at sewing a Simplicity pattern and judging by the final result, it won’t be the last. As I said before, I won this pattern on a contest organized by Lori on her podcast ”Sew Forth Now” and sponsored by Simplicity, that offered two S3631 patterns. I decided to make the Sew Stylish jacket inspired by the wonderful versions made by my friends all over the world. You can read some reviews of this pattern at PatternReview:

Simplicity 3631 @ PatternReview

Each one of the versions translates a personal interpretation of this pattern, which can be adapted in several ways according to your lifestyle. Not to be missed are Adrienne’s, Carolyn’s, Erica’s, Isabelle’s, Linda’s, and Toya’s interpretations.

Knowing that Simplicity patterns are not known in Portugal, Brazil and some countries in Europe, I decided to provide a good insight on this project and document the steps I considered to be interesting and worth showing. Customizing a model and making it your own passes through several stages, since the fabric choice (white cotton pique in this case), notions to be used (for example the buttons, which in this case are white and silver), the added details and the sewing techniques applied.


In my first article: “The simplicity Jacket: the pattern and initial thoughts”, I addressed my plan for this jacket and the alterations I made to the pattern to be able to cut a full lining from it.

Then, in the post “
Bound Buttonholes: another method” , I demonstrated how I did the buttonholes, I showed the tab detail on the sleeves and you also could see the buttons:

In the article “The lining and the elasticized waist”, you could see how I sewed the lining and how to make the casing for the elastic on the waist. Here are a few more details:

The inside pocket (and the reinforcement buttons on the inside of the jacket):


Some more pictures of the lining and the elasticized waist:



The waist ties were sewn by hand to the ends of the elastic casing and the junction is barely visible (this is only possible with hand sewing techniques). Some pictures are yellowish because they were taken without the flash and with artificial light:



Finally, in the article "The Simplicity Jacket: the collar band", I demonstrated how I applied the collar band:


I used hand sewing techniques that are very well illustrated in this tutorial by Summerset: "Fell Stitch vs. Slip stitch". The stitch I used is called fell stitch in English and I have no idea of its name in Portuguese; I’ve been using this stitch for many years (before I had a sewing machine I used to sew entirely by hand: doll clothes at the time, lol) and I always called this stitch the “invisible stitch because you can barely see it from the right side.

Conclusion: This jacket is awesome! Of course I’ll have to take it to the dry cleaners almost every time I wear it, but it is beautiful and I plan on wearing it a lot with good weather. I highly recommend this pattern, which is very easy to make in its basic version, though it can get as complicated and elaborated as you want. It’s all a matter of how much time and work you are willing to invest on a garment!

And this is it! After all this I started cleaning up my living room using magic:

Did it work? *Ahem* I don’t think so… Stay well!

41 comments:

Adrienne said...

You look FABULOUS in your jacket!!! I love it, as always you did an outstanding job!!! LOL too funny about the magic lol.

C. Dishmey said...

Wow...

Vicki W said...

I KNEW that you had special powers! The jacket looks great it will be a very versatile summer jacket.

Audrey said...

Oi amiga, lindo trabalho gostei muito deste modelo.
Beijos,
Audrey

KayB said...

Gorgeous, Tany!

christina said...

What a fun jacket! I love how you customized it with the elastic waist (very fashion-y) and the tabs on the sleeves. Just fab.

Erica B. said...

Tany, the jacket is exquisite! I love the details you added!

Marji said...

Beautifully done, as always. love your own personal touches. Is it warm yet in Portugal? That'll be a great warm weather jacket.
We're experiencing unseasonably cold weather here, unusual for this far south in the USA.

Anonymous said...

Fabulous; looks very couture.

Isabelle said...

It is absolutely wonderful, my friend. I love this white!! Congratulations on this stunning achievement - but you've let out your secret, now - you *are* a fairy seamstress, aren't you! Big hugs, dear Tany!

Tina said...

Linda!!
Bom fim de semana!

Shannon said...

What a great version of this jacket - you have made it yours!

Ana Carina said...

Tany,
Estás lindo!
Tal como eu pensava o elástico (como faz franzir) resulta um efeito que eu adorei, a sério!
Foi uma modificação muito bem pensada com um resultado muito feliz.

Beijinhos e...era bom ter mesmo uma varinha mágica...para ter tudo limpo e arrumadinho!

Beijinhos e bom fim-de-semana

Summerset said...

Gorgeous as usual! I can definitely see where you will get a lot of wear out of the piece this summer.

Anonymous said...

I'm loving that last picture!

This jacket is exquisite and i cant get enough of your details, thanks for sharing.

Angie R.

Vicki said...

What fabulous details you have added to the jacket. It really is stunning! I love seeing everything you do. And you do all this without a dedicated sewing room? Must go off now and see what is next on your list.....

Celina said...

Pormenores fabulosos como sempre. A jaqueta ficou mesmo linda! Modelo, cor e tecido perfeitos.
Beijinhos

Anita said...

Awesome jacket, Tany! I love the crisp white color and all the details you added to make it uniquely yours. Thanks for sharing!
Anita

MARIA ELENA said...

DIVINA!!!!...esclenete trabajo, muuy delicados los detalles bordados en el interior de la chaqueta, te felicito por cuidar tanto de los detalles. Un abrozote.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - the jacket is amazing full of marvelous extra touches. I really love how you've interpreted it and I hope you get to wear it soon! Thanks so much for mentioning my version!

toya said...

that elastic waistband give it the such awesome shaping, it came out great

AllisonC said...

I'm loving this pattern more and more - thank you for showing us all the exquisite details you added.

Lori said...

Gorgeous jacket, Tany. I am so happy you liked the Simplicity pattern and you really did a wonderful job on your jacket. The elastic waist is such a great idea. I bet the white will be a perfect color for the jacket. I was trying to copy your thoughts and looked for white pique cotton today at Hancock's, they had every color but white, wouldn't you know.

Lori said...

So happy you were able to create such a stunning jacket with the Simplicity/Sew Forth Now podcast giveway. Thanks for mentioning the podcast, too, I so appreciate it.

Maja said...

Amazing job as always! Love the details you added.

Alexandra said...

You look fabulous! Beautiful jacket! The inside pocket and hanging loop are nice touches.

rosa said...

Gostei muito da tua vers@o em branco,e da Isabelle em vermelho,s@o cores que gosto muito no ver@o.
a ideia do elastico fica muito bem a meninas elegantes,ficou lindissmo!!!
Esse passo de mágica dava me muito jeito agora nas limpezas,hahaha!!!

(CHEGOUUUUUUUUU!!!QUE RÀPIDO!!!!GRACIAS)
bixous amiga
bo fim de semana

paco peralta said...

Tany.- me uno a todas las muestras de felicitación por esta chaqueta. Te quedo fantástica. Oye, haber si nos explicas bien la "formula mágica" de este "abracadabra" para limpiar en un plis-plás.......un abrazo. Paco

Cafe Couture said...

Tany, every time I read your new posts I am so amazed with the attention you give to details. I love the inside pocket of the lining détail, the buttonholes as well as the elastic band. That sort of details are usually time consuming and consequently unincentive to me. But you seem to enjoy it. I'm definetely becomming addicted to your detailed explanations. Thanks so much.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas!
Thank you all!
Gracias a todos!

C.Dishmey: Thanks and welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Marji: I've answered to your question in the following post!

Paco.- Muchas gracias! He limpiado todo pero sin magica... jejeje. Un fuerte abrazo para ti!

Isabelle: Thank you my dear friend! I wish I could do magic, my house was such a mess! I ended up cleaning it using the non magic way, lolol!

loopylulu said...

Beautiful. I really enjoyed all the entries where you documented your progress on this jacket. I love seeing how you change the patterns to accommodate clean finishing techniques.

madhatter said...

simply stunning, tany!
again a really wonderful garment to show your skills - perfect!!! :)

mirela said...

Perfection as always and so informative! I love all the little details, especially the pocket in the lining and the bound buttonholes!
Thank you for sharing, I'm keen to learning from you :)

P.S.
I would like to see how you do the embroidered labels on tape, do you hoop the ribbon?

Tany said...

Mirela: Thanks! For making the label (this was not my best label, the letters were a little off place), usually I use fusing web to fuse the twill tape to the pre-fold satin bias tape. If the tape is wide enough to cover the feed dogs, there's no need for a loop. These labels are quite easy to make, and though I am considering ordering some labels from the UK, I feel attached to these little custom made ones! I've just saw the embroidered label you made and it looks wonderful! For that kind of label you must have used a loop!

Jackie said...

I love your version of this jacket! You do amazing work!

Linda said...

I love your interpretation of this jacket. I love the casing and tie belt enclosed in the casing. The lining is perfect for this color jacket as well. Bravo! This is inspiring for me as I want to make this jacket again, varying the look.

LauraLo said...

The jacket is perfect, I adore the fabric and the buttons, and you're beautiful in it! Showing the construction step by step and all the useful how-tos along the way are a gold mine! Thanks, Tany! Love, L.

Mamã Martinho said...

Não querias mais nada, né? Se conseguires acertar nesse passe de magia diz-me como é para eu também o aplicar! A jaqueta ficou um espanto, bem gira! Foi sem dúvida alguma um fim ed semana bem produtivo, e posso dizer que além de produtivo foi também bem sucedido!

Bjs

Mónica

Sigrid said...

FABULOUS.
I'm going to read your tutorials later and add them to the lists on my blog (and must browse through your older posts to find more of them !)

ivete said...

amei esta jaqueta tamb�m copiei olivro muito �til um grande beijo se blog est� cada vez melhor

Tany said...

Muito obrigada Yvete e bem-vinda ao Couture et Tricot! Beijos!