Monday, January 26, 2009

Casaco “Orquídea Azul” - The Blue Orchid Coat

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)


Modelo original: Vogue 8306

Descrição: Jaqueta/casaco forrado em três comprimentos, tem gola enorme em duas variações que tapam os ombros, fecho com molas de pressão e mangas de duas folhas. Fiz a versão B com algumas modificações.

Outras vistas do casaco:

Material: tecido de lã pesado, tipo feltado, em tom azul esverdeado; comprei este tecido em Paris na loja Tissus Reine e na altura não reparei que a peça era mais estreita: media 1,35cm de largura em vez de 150cm. Em consequência deste facto o tecido não chegou e tive de usar sarja preta entretelada para as vistas e para a gola inferior. Esta solução de recurso acabou por se revelar positiva, uma vez que o tecido é muito volumoso e a frente e a gola ficariam espessos demais com duas camadas do tecido original. O contraste com o preto ficou giro; para forro utilizei cetim pesado negro (cetim especial para forrar casacos pesados) e o botão foi uma oferta da Summerset, que o bordou à mão com lantejoulas e contas.

Modificações: Basicamente, em vez de me limitar às instruções que diziam para entretelar somente as vistas e a gola inferior, entretelei o casaco como mostram as fotos seguintes (além de ter aplicado fita termo-colante nas cavas e no decote):

As instruções não mencionam chumaços nem cabeças de manga, mas creio que o casaco beneficiou em muito da aplicação destes (chumaços de alfaiate com desconto nas costas, especiais para casacos, enviados pelo Paco); nem precisei de modificar altura dos ombros. Também apliquei cabeças de manga “moustache” feitas com entretela de alfaiate, uma vez que as normais eram demasiado leves para o tecido deste casaco:



Como já referi a parte de baixo da gola e as vistas foram cortadas em sarja preta (entretelada com entretela forte); na foto parece cinza, mas é o efeito do flash:


Também acrescentei dois bolsos de chapa forrados; a sequência de fotos seguinte mostra como os fiz:


Repararam que na costura deixei uma abertura para depois virar o bolso (a ebertura é cosida à mão depois do bolso virado); prosseguindo:


Depois de virados e passados, os bolsos são cosidos à mão ao casaco com pontos invisíveis:

Mais pormenores do forro:



E finalmente o detalhe do botão da Summerset, uma verdadeira obra de arte:

Conclusão: Gostei muito do resultado final e aprovo este molde na totalidade (não fiz uma única rectificação ao molde tamanho 12). As mangas resultaram bastante bem, pelo menos neste tecido volumoso e moldável e o modelo é de natureza cintada, muito elegante. A gola, claro está, torna-o imponente e sei que este é um casaco que não vai passar despercebido. Não me lembro de ver mais nenhum casaco deste modelo feito nos blogs, será que não gostaram do modelo? Quanto a fotos com o casaco vestido, talvez amanhã quando o levar para o trabalho aqui têm:

Deixo-vos com uma orquídea azul, em agradecimento pelo vosso carinho:


Original Model: Vogue 8306

Description: “Lined jacket in three lengths, has oversized, off the shoulder collar variations, snap closure and long two-piece sleeve”. I made view B with modifications.

Other views:

Materials: Heavy weight greenish blue wool (it’s kind of felted and it looks like boucle); I bought this fabric in Paris at Tissus Reine and at the time I didn’t pay much attention to the fabric’s width; it turned out the fabric was less wide than I expected and not enough for this model. So I decided to cut the facings and the under collar in contrasting black twill reinforced with strong fusible. This solution revealed to be better than I expected because the fabric thickness would have made the collar and the front of the jacket too thick. I also liked the black contrast playing with the large button (it is hand embroidered with sequins and beads and was a gift from Summerset) and the black satin lining (the lining is heavier than regular satin; it’s special purpose for heavy coats).

Alterations: Basically I altered the inner structure; the instructions will have you interfacing only the under collar, under lapels and front facings; they don’t mention shoulder pads or sleeve heads. I interfaced the body as shown in the next pictures, and also taped the neckline and armholes.

I believe the coat has good benefit of the added shoulder pads and I didn’t even have to raise the shoulder height. The shoulder pads are special purpose for coats and have a cropped back (they came from Paco). I also used moustache sleeve heads made of hair canvas (the regular ones are too thin for this fabric):



As I stated before, the under collar and the facings were cut in black twill (reinforced with strong interfacing); they look gray in the pictures but that’s just the flashlight playing tricks:


I also added two lined pockets; the pictures illustrate how I made them:


Notice that I left the middle section unstitched to be able to turn the finished pocket to the right side later (the opening will be stitched by hand before setting the pockets in place):


After being turned to the right side and pressed, the pockets are hand stitched to the coat using invisible stitches:

More details of the lining:



And finally a close up of Summerset’s magnificent artwork on this button:

Conclusion: I’m quite happy with the end result and I highly recommend this pattern (I didn’t have to do a single adjustment to the pattern size 12). The two-piece sleeves turned out remarkably well (at least on this thick fabric). The model is adjusted to the waist and very elegant featuring an hourglass figure. The collar is overwhelming and I’m quite sure this coat won’t get unnoticed!
I don’t remember seeing any V8306 made up on the internet, so I’m guessing most people didn’t like this pattern or didn’t believe in it as a real coat. I will wear this coat to the office tomorrow and hopefully will get some pictures with the coat on. ETA:

I leave you with a blue orchid and a big thank you for visiting!

68 comments:

caseykoester said...

Wow Tany! Such a beautiful coat, and great description of the techniques! I especially like the name you chose: The Blue Orchid. It sounds like a film noir movie. ;)

Have fun wearing your lovely creation!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, oh my goodness-this is absolutely beautiful! I truly believe, without a doubt,you will be noticed wearing this jacket. The look is stunning and every detail "perfect".
What a perfect garment to use this button on!

Vicki W said...

Oh Tany, it's stunning! Summerset's button is the perfect finish too. Your fabric fix with the black twill makes a great design element.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - the reason that you haven't seen any other pictures of it is because no one else could pull it off like you can! ;) As always, your work is impeccable and inspiring!

AllisonC said...

This is so fabulous, I love jackets with statement collars and I will be buying this pattern now! Not sure I will come anywhere close to your workmanship, but you inspire me to try.

Cindy said...

This coat is beautiful! The color and construction is perfect. It won't go unnoticed and that is a good thing. Have fun wearing it.

Dana said...

Wow, wow, WOW! It's fabulous!

Zoubida said...

Absolutely stunning coat Tany! I actually have this pattern and planned to make it maybe next fall. The oversized collar is the reason why I bought it. I sure will come back to your post here for inspiration when I start on it.
Thank you for such a rich and fabulous blog. You know how I love it here.

Rachel said...

Oh my goodness!!! My heart skipped a beat when I saw that jacket. It is just GORGEOUS!!! I really love that shade of blue, too.

Lori said...

Tany, that is an amazing coat. The color, collar and shaping are spectacular. What a beautiful job you have done again.

Erica B. said...

Tany, I saw your jacket and I gasped! It is so beautiful! I love how you made due with your fabric shortage!

Sew4Fun said...

Wow, Tany. What a dramatic jacket! Tailored to perfection too with the collar standing to attention with no 'droop' at all. You did an outstnading job and I adore the colour!! One of my favourite colours.

senaSews said...

Wow, Tany, your coat is awesome. I love the color!

KayB said...

Gobsmacked! That's what I am. Where do you take the time from.... you must have a secret stash of hidden minutes or even hours! :-)
Anyway, the jacket is absolutely gorgeous!

MAGU-3 said...

hola, muy lindo, color, modelo, y la terminacion fina, elegante, delicada.

Vicki said...

Stunning. Absolutely love this. You will look gorgeous in this for sure. I am seeing it on you with black turtleneck and black pants. But you usually surprise me in the way your wear your clothes. Looking forward to seeing a photo of you in it.

Frida said...

What a pretty color and the collar is just amazing!

Claudine said...

Tany, this is truly gorgeous! Thanks so much for sharing it with us, and have fun wearing it.

Jenny said...

Your jacket is beautiful! The color is unique and so flattering. It looks like a jacket you'd find in a very expensive boutique - only custom made and fitted!

Isabelle said...

Wow Tany... Such a stunning jacket! It looks amazing, inside and out. I bet you will enjoy wearing this a lot!
Hugs, Tany! I hope this finds you well and happy :)

Rucas said...

UAU!! Que bela maneira de começar uma 2ª feira, ver o teu blogue, ver o teu trabalho e a descrição tão minuciosa. Por acaso dás formação nesta área??

Boa semana

Jinhos
Rucas

Mary Beth said...

Love that black button and undercollar/lining with the blue-green fashion fabric. Great look for you!

paco peralta said...

Tany.- esta espectacular, de veras. El color y la tela es precioso y el patrón se adapta a la perfección. Es un acierto el uso del botón "Summerset" para este modelo. Enhorabuena.

un abrazo, Paco

Gry said...

It is a great jacket. You are right, the collar is a bit overwhelming, but you can definitely pull it off. I know you will look fabulous in it.

And your sleeve caps are so beautiful. It is almost a pity that the collar hides them.

Lisette M said...

Stunning jacket! Enjoy it.
Carinos,
Lisette

Lindsay T said...

I love this jacket! I could see this on Michelle Obama. Such a pretty color.

melissa said...

This is beautiful and I so see how it's an orchid! You get extra points for thinking outside the box when your fabric came up short, too!

Els said...

It is as always a pleasure and joy to see a new post from you. As usual this fantastic jacket
fits you like a glove and is beautiful made.
The fabric looks like a boiled wool so the shortage of fabric turned out well since you need some thinner fabric for the under collar and facing.

Anonymous said...

Completely gorgeous - beautiful job!

Ana's Closet said...

Tens razão, não vais mesmo passar despercebida! Adorei a mistura de cores, mesmo sem teres outra opção. O único sítio onde se vê o tecido preto é na vista de trás do casaco, mas ficou optimo, além de muito inovador!
Qualquer dia vês nas passereles um casaco semelhante.

Sheila said...

Beautiful Jacket and the buttons are a perfect touch.

oasis said...

What a nice jacket! Bravo

Summerset said...

So beautiful. I had to laugh at the end of the post. I didn't even realize it was my button.

I left an award for you on my blog. Enjoy!

Berry said...

Moustache sleeve heads !!! I didn't know about these one but love the name ;o) Your posts are a true treasures mine Tany, it's always a pleasure to read and of course congratulations for your jacket, it is awesome!!!

Liana said...

Perfection. That's the only word for it. Enjoy, you'll be the envy of all who see you.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, you look amazing, like I knew you would, in this jacket!

I have an award for you
on my blog :)))

Catarina said...

Está sensacional!
Atrevo-me mesmo a dizer que é um casaco imponente. Pela côr e pela gola.

Sigrid said...

wow again. Beautifully made and perfect fit. This is a good look on you!
I'm a bit curious: how much time did it take you to make this jacket? I know you have a job and sew in your free time, but your speed is amazing, considering all the detailed/tailored work you do.

CreativeBusyHands-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Wow! Como sempre, um trabalho perfeito. Eu adorei a cor que voce escolheu. Ficou super otimo em voce. Eu tenho que investigar a entretela equivalente aqui nos EUA. Voce me inspira costurar um blazer, seguindo todas as regras de alta-costura. Parabens e obrigada por partilhar mais este trabalho. -luiza

Christina said...

I think you just sold a few more patterns of this style for Vogue. Your coat is gorgeous!

Celina said...

Lindo e super chique!
Adoro tudo, o modelo (a gola é um must), a cor e textura do tecido (gosto de ver cortes "clean" neste tipo de tecidos já de si texturados) e a tua ideia genial de substituir o tecido que não havia por outro noutra cor! Também me parece que assenta melhor, aliás iria assentar de qualquer modo. E não podias ter escolhido melhor botão para este casaco, uma peça exclusiva e minuciosa feita com todo o carinho por uma amiga...
Parabéns por mais uma obra fantástica! (um dia ainda vais dar origem a um museu da costura...)
Bjs

Dei said...

Your tailoring skills are an inspiration. I pay careful attention to your notes in your blog because I use them as information later.

The color is so rich and yummy! Beautiful coat.

Jackie said...

Tany, the coat is gorgeous! Your work is always beautiful. This time, blogger wouldn't switch the language to English, but the photos speak for itself! Also, I nominated your blog for the Kreativ Blog Award, although I'm sure you've been nominated, you provide lots of inspiration to all of us!

Bunny said...

This coat is exquisite and that sleeve set is just perfection. Thanks for all the wonderful details.

Beth said...

Lindissímo este casaco! Uma perfeição como sempre.
Mais uma vez parabéns.

Beijos.

Charlene McGill said...

Excellent work as usual. I have nominated you for the Kreativ Blogger Award.

anita said...

Gorgeous jacket, Tany! Very nicely complemented by that beautiful button too.

Christina said...

One more thing, I've given you the "Kreativ Blogger Award". Feel free to play along, or not!

Wisy said...

That is a fabulous jacket! One of the best garments I've seen in ages!

J. Matos said...

Lindo, lindo e lindo! Parabéns por mais este projeto. Estou começando a costurar agora e já sou sua fã de carteirinha. Tomara que eu consiga fazer um destes daqui a alguns anos, rs. Beijos!

Mamã Martinho said...

Eu simplesmente adorei! Era sem dúvida um modelo que compraria para mim, sem nenhuma alteração. Adorei a cor, o promenor das vistas com a sarja preta e claro o modelo em si!
Lembro-me deste botão e foi uma boa escolha para este modelo!

Bjs

Mónica

Ana Carina said...

Está simplesmente...LIIIIIINNNDOOO!!!

Desde à cor azul (que espectacular!), o contraste com o preto das vistas, em especial da gola (mera coincidência e resultou na perfeição), à gola que é linda e muito vistosa...ao botão da Summerset, que lhe dá o toque final (a tal cereja em cima do bolo).

Tens razão, despercebida é que não vais passar!

É sem dúvidas dos casacos mais bonitos que vi.

Beijinhos

Chuana said...

Olá Tany,

o casaco está magnífico! Adorei este modelo, na minha opinão, até ficou bastante bonito com o tecido preto, assim faz contraste e personifica-o!

Adorei mesmo, estás outra vez de Parabéns pelo teu excelente trabalho!

Bjs
Chuana

designdreamer said...

Gorgeous, as usual.

Meg said...

I love your blog and am blown away by your skill. Such gorgeous work. I have nominated you for a kreativ blogger award. check it out at my site. Cheers.

brocadegoddess said...

Greetings from the (currently) frozen north of Canada!

I was just turned onto your blog - it's going into my favourites list now!

Your blue orchid jacket is......gimme a sec to think of a good enough word......sublime. Yes, that's it, sublime.

The workmanship is really on the level of art.

You are already an inspiration to me, thank you!

KateS said...

Hi Tany - I have also nominated you for the Kreativ Blogger award! I have found your level of craftmanship in garment construction and dedication to quality blogging amazing:)
Thanks for a great blog!
Kate

berry said...

O my god, everything is already said....Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful! And a gorgeous color!
Congrats from berry, Switzerland

Nina said...

Tany, i love your coat. What a great color.

Best wishes,
Nina

CreativeBusyHands said...

Tany, I have an award for you on my blog. I know several other blogs/sites gave you this award. But I just have to give to you again. I love your work, and love the way you display and explain it. -luiza

MaGu.-3 said...

Hola Tanny, soy de Monterrey, Mexico, muy lejos de donde tu te encuentras, pero eso no deja de admirar siempre todas tus confecciones, veo tienes muy buen gusto, todo lo que haces te queda muy lindo, a mi tambinen me encanta confeccionar cosas, y admiro a quien lo hace y comparte sus experiencias con los demas, besos.

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

Tany,

This is one of the must beautiful jacket I have seen in my life. Again the quality of your craftsmanship is more then excellent !

CORTEYGRIF said...

Que linda,mais esta jaketa
adoro o corte e a cor ja sabes!!
a combinaçao do forro em preto è um contraste lindissimo,as golas boleadas sempre foram uma das minhas preferidas,quando a peça assenta justissima ao longo do corpo!
show,show show!!

Eden said...

Tany, parabéns por mais uma peça belíssima. Adorei o detalhe das vistas e gola em preto, o detalhe do botão, a cor do tecido... ADOREI!!!

Meg said...

Oh my god! What a beautiful creation, and the colour is to die for....

Paulandre said...

ficou lindo, lindo demais...adoro este tom de azul!

Cennetta said...

Superb!

luciana cavalcante said...

olá , nossa !!!! vc é uma pessoa de extremo bom gosto, eu simplesmente amei essa peça, ela é linda sofisticada e todas as mulhes de gosto apurado gostaria de ter em seu guarda roupa, é uma jóia linda , meus parabens ficou maravilhosa