Saturday, June 16, 2007

Marcar com alinhavos (Parte 2) – Thread tracing (Part 2)

Como marcar pinças e outras linhas no meio do molde? Bem, há duas formas: uma é recortar a pinça e marcar as linhas como habitualmente; se usarem este método devem prender com alfinetes a toda a volta do desenho da pinça e só depois recortar, com cuidado para não cortarem o tecido.
How to thread trace darts and other lines in the middle of the pattern? There are two ways: the first is cutting the dart off the pattern and thread trace its outlines as usual. If you make things this way it's better to secure with pins all around the dart and then cut the dart off, being very careful so the fabric underneath doesn't get cut by mistake.

Outro método é fazer pequenos cortes com um x-acto ou um estilete (antes de prender o molde ao tecido!), do tamanho dos pontos, para que o papel do molde não fique cosido ao tecido (se o tecido for escorregadio, é melhor também prender com alfinetes em torno da pinça. Vejam as fotos que explicam melhor que as minhas palavras:
The alternative is making small cuts with a craft knife (before the pattern is pinned to the fabric), more or less the size of your basting stitches, so later you can remove the paper pattern without it being basted to the fabric layers (if dealing with slippery fabric, pin all around the dart before thread tracing it). Watch the picture sequence and hopefully the pictures will do the talking for me:





Primeiro cortam-se os alinhavos à volta do molde e deixa-se as pinças para o fim:
First cut the pattern outlines and leave the darts for last:

Aqui está a pinça já marcada:
Here's the final thread tracing:
Ainda há mais para mostrar em relação à marcação com alinhavos. É já a seguir!
There's yet more to say about thread tracing so stay tuned!

10 comments:

Sewcreate said...

Hello,

I am still confused. It looks to me like after you are tailor tacking the seamlines you are going back and thread tracing the same seamlines with a new needle and the pulling the tailor tacks out. Am I understanding correctly? Thank you so much for your help.

Tany said...

Sewcreate: Exactly! The final stitching is not cut in little pieces, it is a long running stitch that can be easily pulled out after machine stitching the seam when sewing the garment! This is made like this because I'm dealing with two layers of cut fabric. You can thread baste one layer at a time (unpinning the pattern and then pinning it to each layer separately after it is cut) and thus skipping the tailor tacks but usually I do that for interfaced/underlined sections only(next post will address that subject).

Els said...

What I learned and use is marking the fabric stitch lines with tailor tacks when the pattern is cut with a double layer of fabric ( right sides of fabric to the inside) Or thread trace the fabric when it is cut on a single layer.If you use basting thread the tailor tacks do not fall out when basting the seams togethere for the first fitting.So there is no need to do both unless the thread you use for the tailor tacks is slippery and will not stay put in the fabric after handling the fabric.

Summerset said...

Excellent tutorials, Tany! One of these days, I'll actually thread trace for something other than really important gowns! At least now I have detailed instructions thanks to you!

Tany said...

Els: You are right, of course; the little thread bits can be used as a guide for basting the first fit; the basting for the first fit can be used later as a stitching guide too but most times I find I need to un-baste and sew a seam at a time. I do trace the lines again as a matter of personal preference. I don't like handling the fabric with the little cut threads on (they do get in the way when basting or machine stitching). But again, this is me and with practice every one can develop a way that works best for self!

Summerset Thanks! As I said before, usually this method is intended for accurate fitting and not for the everyday sewing. I do it because I can spare the time, because I like it and because it makes me think over all the procedures ahead! Oh, and because I’m crazy, lol!

Sewcreate said...

Thanks Tany,

I am somewhat of a perfectionist so I am always looking for accurate techniques. Thank you for all the information you provide. You are talented and it is so refreshing to learn from someone willing to be generous with their knowledge. I will be looking forward to your next post.

Sewcreate said...

Els,

Your comment about the first fitting has encouraged me to go ahead and hand baste the two pieces together for the first fitting instead of taking the pieces apart and hand basting the separate layers. This is probably what Tany was saying also.

Kind of a two for one deal.

Happy sewing

Adrienne said...

This is very good Tany. I'm enjoying following your progress!

Anonymous said...

Tany - your blog is SO GOOD that I think total newbie could Learn to sew just from reading it!

You go girl!

Phyllis

Tany said...

Thanks Phyllis! One of my goals is motivating others for sewing; it's a wonderful activity!