Hi Friends! This post starts a series of two or three posts on the subject of thread tracing. This first part will address one of the simplest cases, which is the case when there aren't darts or any other special markings (besides notches or straight lines). I'll use one of the sleeve leafs as an example and in this case there are two layers of fabric with the pattern pinned on top (the fabric was cut following a layout where the fabric was folded lengthwise). The case where there is only one layer of fabric (when dealing with asymmetrical patterns or when matching patterns like plaids) is easier because the tailor tucks phase can be skipped and the outlines are thread traced on a single step.
Aqui temos a folha posterior da manga:
Here is the posterior leaf for the sleeve:
See that there are two layers of fabric (right sides facing each other):
Uma coisa importante: nos cantos a agulha deve ser inserida na vertical para que as duas camadas sejam perfuradas exactamente no mesmo sítio:
This is important: the needle should follow a path perpendicular to the fabric at the corners, this way making sure that the corner is marked evenly and accurately on both layers:
Para empastar (marcar ambos os lados do tecido ao mesmo tempo), faz-se um ponto corrido largo deixando sobrar a linha no lado de cima:
To make the tailor tucks (this serves the purpose of reproducing the outlines on both layers at the same time) a long running stitch is performed but the thread is left loose on the top, forming those little thread loops you see in the picture:
É melhor contornar os cantos sempre enfiando a agulha de cima para baixo no canto de forma perpendicular ao tecido:
When reaching a corner it's better if you insert the needle from top to down and perpendicular to the fabric:
When the thread comes to an end, just leave the loose end and start again. Always start leaving a little thread tail behind:
To tailor tuck the fold line on the sleeve hem (or any other line that crosses the pattern), just fold the paper pattern and pin it secured:
The notches are marked like this (make a thread loop):
When all the lines are stitched, the pattern is unpinned:
The two layers are pulled apart; see the threads in between? This is what the loose stitches are for:
The threads are cut in between, making it possible to separate the two layers, keeping the cut basting threads on each layer as a guide:
Finally the final thread tracing is done, using the little thread bits as a guide and removing them as you go:
If you thread trace corners like this, pulling the basting thread off after stitching the seam will be much easier later:
Este é o caso mais simples, sem pinças, entretelas ou outras condicionantes.
This is the simplest case, where there are no darts, interfacing or any other special condition to deal with.
See you soon!