Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Costura 2007#2: Burda 01/07 Vestido 106 - 2007 Sewing#2: BWOF 01/07 106 Dress

Aqui está o meu segundo projecto de costura em 2007:
Here is my second 2007 sewing project:
Falta a vista de lado mas a foto não ficou bem, farei um update logo que possível.
The side view is missing because the photo was bad. I will take another as soon as possible.
Modelo original e esquemático, cortesia de Burdamode.com:
Original model and line drawing, all courtesy of Burdamode.com:

Descrição do modelo: Model description:

Trata-se de um vestido simples e direito, com painéis laterais e um fecho invisível atrás; o contorno do corpo é conseguido através de pinças na frente (no peito e na anca). Pode fazer-se também um cinto do tecido que sobra para combinar. No modelo original o tecido usado é seda selvagem estampada. É classificado como de fácil execução mas demorada(**/*****).
This is a simple straight dress, featuring side panels and a back invisible zipper; the fit is improved by horizontal darts (chest and hip). A matching self-fabric belt can also be made to emphasize the waist. The original model is made from dupion silk. This pattern is rated as easy to sew but time-consuming (**/*****).

Material (tamanho 38): (para verem fotos, cliquem aqui)
Notions (European size 38) (click here to see pictures)

- tecido: 1,75m (1,4m de largura)
- fabric: 1,75m (1,4m width)
- fecho invisível de 60cm
- invisible zipper (0,6m long)
- forro: 1,20m (1,4 de largura)
- lining: 1,20m (1,4 width)
- entretela de malha fina: 2,6m (0,8m largura)
- thin fusible knit interfacing: 2,6m (0,8m width)
- Fita de renda larga: 1,15m
- Wide lace trim: 1,15m
- Fita de renda estreita: 2,30m
- Narrow lace trim: 2,30m

Modificações: Alterations:

Desci a bainha ligeiramente e forrei o vestido por completo; não costurei o cinto porque prefiro ver este vestido (com este tecido) sem cinto. Podem ver na figura seguinte como ficaria com cinto:
I lengthened the hem a little bit and I made a full lining; I didn't make the matching belt, I like this dress better with no belt (giving the fabric used). In the next picture you can see how it would look like with a belt:
Execução do vestido: Execution steps:

Traçado do molde e corte da musselina
Tracing the pattern and cutting the muslin

A musselina e a primeira prova
Fitting the muslin

Sub-forrar o vestido
Underlining the dress

Cortar o forro para o vestido
Cutting the lining for the dress

Costurar as pinças
Sewing darts

Costurar o fecho invisível
Sewing the invisible zipper

Costurar a vista inteiriça do vestido (Parte I)
Sewing the dress all-in-one facing (Part I)

Costurar a vista inteiriça do vestido (Parte II)
Sewing the dress all-in-one shoulder facing (Part II)


Acabamento da vista atrás com o fecho
Finishing the facing with the zipper
Fazer a bainha com renda e coser o forro na vista
Hemming with lace trim and sewing the lining to the facing
A renda na bainha do forro
Lace trim on the lining hem
Fotos do vestido no manequim:
Pictures of the dress on the dressform:
O manequim inclina um bocado para a frente...
The dressform is leaning forward on this one...

Conclusão: Conclusion:

Adorei este projecto por ser um vestido simples e discreto, no entanto elegante. Os pequenos pormenores no interior valorizaram bastante este vestido, acredito que devemos ser tão meticulosas no interior como no exterior das peças que fazemos. O vestido ainda está um justo nas ancas e no peito, mas como estou um pouco acima do meu peso normal, isso não me preocupa. Espero que tenham gostado de acompanhar este projecto comigo, eu adorei a vossa presença através dos comentários e dos emails que me enviaram. Um GRANDE ABRAÇO a todas!
I love this dress because it's simple and discrete, yet elegant. The little details on the inside really add value to a garment; I believe we should be as careful and meticulous on the inside as on the outside. The dress is still tight on the hips and chest but this is what I intended because I'm slightly over weighted (it's being taken care of, lol). I hope you've enjoyed this project as much as I did; it has been fun having your presence along the way through your wonderful comments and emails. A BIG HUG to you all!

E agora tenho a casa toda para arrumar e limpar! Até breve!
And now I have some serious housecleaning to do! See you soon!


25 comments:

Vicki said...

Tany, the dress is beautiful. I wish it was hanging in my wardrobe, lol.

Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to your next project.

Shannon said...

Excellent dress - it looks wonderful on you!

KayBee said...

It all came together beautifully. Really like the little details on the inside. Nice job, Tany!

Erica B. said...

I followed your progress... beautiful results!

Sewcreate said...

Fantastic and as usual absolutely beautiful results!!! How long do you think this dress took you time wise start to finish?

Jen said...

Wow!!! You are my new hero. I'm so glad I found your blog. Thank you so much for all the details and help. I have learned a lot!!!!!!

stacy said...

Absolutely Beautiful!!!! I love this dress.

Abi said...

Very Elegant dress.Thank you for the exceptional inprogress details.

toya said...

fantastic, it really came out great!!!

els said...

Beautiful and elegant.

Mamã Martinho said...

Tany,

O vestido ficou Lindissimo. Pessoalmente usaria um cinto para cintar mais a cintura, mas assim também está muito bem! Mais uma vez os meus parabéns pelas tuas maravilhosas confecções e dicas.

Bjs

Mónica

PS- Que saltos enormes!!!! Eu não conseguia usar uns tão grandes!

filomena said...

O vestido ficou um espectáculo e fica-te maravilhosamente! Parabéns!

Adrienne " A little dramatic at times" said...

Looks FANTASTIC! AND I LOVE THE SHOES!!!!!!!!!!

Marji said...

I for one am glad you put off housecleaning to detail your process :)
It's a beautiful dress, inside and out.
and I'll echo Adrienne, I love the shoes too!

LMH said...

The dress is gorgeous, & now I'm tempted to make one--maybe as a jumper for Fall. We shall see!

madhatter said...

GO YOU!!! XD
awesome, as always!

.x.Helen.x. said...

Really beautiful. It definitely looks better without a belt - much sleeker. And I love the little details like the lace on the hem. Well done!

May said...

Tany, I share the same feeling towards inside finishing. Congrats on your fabulous dress!

Tany said...

Thanks for all the compliments!
Obrigada a todas pelos vossos elogios!

Now, answering to your questions:
Sewcrate: This dress took about five weeks to complete but keep in mind that I have little time to sew. I sew mostly on weekends.

Monica: São realmente altos, cerca de 10cm… Também não costumo andar com eles no dia a dia ;). Comprei estes sapatos numa das minhas viagens ao Brasil.

About the shoes: I bought them on one of my business trips to Brazil, I’m glad many of you like them!

Summerset said...

Marvelous! Great shoes, too!

We must have similar taste - it is exactly like something I'd make for myself.

Sewcreate said...

Thanks for your response. It's always interesting to find out how much sweat equity someone has invested in their project. The blogs sometimes make it seem that people complete these projects in less than a week. It makes me feel better to know that these beautiful projects do indeed take time. Thank you for sharing.

Anonymous said...

Girlfriend - those pin stripes and shoes are HOT! Phyllis

Laura said...

Ficou lindo, adorei!
Deves ter tido imenso trabalho! Eu também vou tentar costurar uns vestidos para usar no Verão, porque não consigo encontrar nada que me fique bem, nas lojas.
Achas que o vestido 102 da burda é um bom projecto para quem tem pouca prática na costura?

Henriette said...

Beautiful...but how many hours would you estimate that you've spent on it in total?

Tany said...

Hi Henriette, welcome to Couture et Tricot! I work full time during the week so I sew 1-2hrs per working day, if I have the chance; during weekends I spend 10 hrs sewing, give or take; I've spent 4 weeks on this dress so I estimate around 70hrs.
Thank you for your comment!