Costurar a vista inteiriça no vestido (Parte I) - Sewing the dress all-in-one shoulder facing (Part I)
After reading the comments on the link provided at the end of one of my previous blog entries (sewing the darts), I realized that my preferred method to sew the facing/lining to a sleeveless dress is the method described by Meg (see comments). This method implies that the facing side seams and the dress side seams match, so they can be stitched as one. With this dress this doesn't happen because the dress has a side panel with two seams on each side and the facing has regular side seams. To follow this method I would have to alter the facing pattern as follows, so that a single side seam on the facing matches the back side seam on the dress:
This way I could sew the dress side back seam and the facing side seam as one, as Meg explained. Unfortunately when I saw Meg's comment I had already cut the facings and there was no extra fabric left to re-cut them, so I'm unable to put this method into practice now. I will use another method (you can see its full description on the “High Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World’s Best Designers by Claire Shaeffer” book, on page 215. This method can be used to sew any all-in-one shoulder facing even if there is no side or back closure on the garment.
Antes de seguir os passos deste método é importante verificar algumas características na vista: a largura do ombro deve ser ligeiramente menor na vista que no vestido, digamos que 3mm de cada lado do ombro é suficiente.
Before explaining this method it's important to make sure that the facing is a little narrower than the dress on the shoulders; the shoulder width on the facing should be less 1/8" on each side of the shoulder.
O primeiro passo é costurar as costuras do lado, tanto no vestido como na vista, deixando os ombros por coser:
The first step is sewing the side seams on both the dress and the facing, leaving the shoulder seams open:
Depois prende-se a vista com alfinetes no vestido, alinhando as suas linhas de costura com o vestido e alinhava-se ao longo das orlas do decote e das cavas; Na próxima figura podem ver as linhas a verde que indicam por onde se vai coser (deixa-se a costura em aberto uns 4cm antes de chegar aos ombros, tanto na frente como atrás):
Then I just pin the facing to the dress, right sides facing each other, so that the stitching lines match along the neckline and the armscye. I hand baste and I remove the pins, then I machine stitch where the green lines show in next picture (I stop about 2" away from the shoulder seams):
Take note that you should leave the seam open on the back, about 2" before reaching the zipper opening so you can finish the zipper opening later:
After machine stitching I remove all the hand bastings; I remove the thread tracing only on the previously stitched lines (green lines above). After this I grade and clip the neckline and the armscye seams as you can see in the next picture: the dress SAs are graded wider that the facing SAs, clipping is done so the little "v"s don't match on both SAs: