Sunday, March 11, 2007

Cortar o forro para o vestido - Cutting the lining for the dress

Antes de mostrar a forma como preparo o molde para cortar o forro, queria que vissem o resultado da minha operação de “sub-forrar” o vestido; na próxima figura podem ver as partes do vestido já com a entretela colada. Como podem ver, o aspecto do tecido pelo lado direito é impecável e no avesso não são visíveis bolhas ou engelhas na entretela. É claro que só se consegue garantir bons resultados com este método se tanto a entretela como o tecido não encolham quando lhes são aplicados humidade e calor; neste caso este tipo de entretela não encolhe e, depois de pré-lavar e passar o tecido, também verifiquei que não encolhia.
Before moving on to the lining pattern, I want to show you the result of underlining the dress with thin fusible knit interfacing; in the next picture you can see both right and wrong sides after fusing the interfacing on. As you can observe, both sides are impeccable, no wrinkles or bubbles at all. The best results with this method are guaranteed if both fabric and interfacing don't shrink when heat and moisture are applied to them. This kind of fusible interfacing doesn't shrink and, after washing and steam pressing the fashion fabric, I could tell it doesn't shrink at all too.
Para preparar o molde para cortar o forro basta descontar das partes do molde a largura das vistas (as vistas serão depois cosidas ao forro completando a forma do vestido); na próxima sequência de fotografias mostro como isso é feito para o caso específico deste vestido.
To alter the pattern for cutting the lining all it takes is taking off the facings width from the pattern pieces (the lining will be stitched to the facings); next photo sequence will show how this is done in this case.

Primeiro coloco a vista de trás sobre o molde das costas, sobrepondo as orlas do molde no meio das costas e no decote; no molde das costas traça-se uma linha pela orla inferior da vista e na vista marca-se onde acaba o molde das costas para continuar no painel lateral (tracejado):
First I place the back facing pattern on top of the back pattern, overlapping the CB and the collar outlines; I trace the facing bottom outline on the back pattern and I also trace the side seam on the facing (doted line):
O resto da vista serve para continuar o traçado no painel lateral (parte das costas), como mostra a figura seguinte; o fim da vista é marcado a tracejado no molde do painel lateral:
The remaining facing will be used to trace another outline on the back half of the side panel, as shown in the next picture; I also trace a doted line on the side panel where the facing ends:
A partir do tracejado usa-se a vista da frente para continuar a traçar o sítio por onde se cortará o painel lateral (metade da frente):
From this doted line on I'll use the front facing to continue the tracing of the new outline on the front half of the side panel:
O restante da vista da frente é sobreposto na parte da frente do molde, alinhando o centro da frente e as linhas do decote, como foi feito para as costas:
The remaining front facing is placed on top of the front panel, aligning the CF and the collar outline as I did for the back:
Aqui podem ver as linhas por onde se vai cortar o molde, descontando assim a largura das vistas; depois disto o molde está pronto para ser usado para cortar o forro do vestido:
Here you can see the new outlines; the facing width can now be cut away and the pattern is ready to be used for cutting the lining:
Neste momento já prendi as peças do molde ao forro dobrado ao longo do comprimento e preparo-me para cortá-lo:
At this point I've pinned the pattern pieces to the lining and I'm preparing to cut the lining.
Até à próxima!
See you next time!

Todos os posts sobre este vestido: cliquem aqui;
All posts on this dress: click here;

7 comments:

Adrienne " A little dramatic at times" said...

You are doing good girl!!!!!! Can't wait to see what's next!

toya said...

the fusible knit interfacing you are using,, can I find that in the US as the same thing or is it called something else, I use fusible interfacing from Pellon and I don't know if this is the same. THanks for the tutorial, I enjoy watching your process

Tany said...

Toya: I really don’t know the brand or the name for this interfacing, I know it’s really good stuff. I buy it locally.

Mamã Martinho said...

Agora sim, já está quase no fim!!!
Estou mesmo curiosa para ver como fica. Vais fazer o cinto tb, ou não?

Bjs
Mónica

Marji said...

Tany, in the US I believe the equivalent for what you are using here would be Sof-Knit, a soft, fusible tricot interfacing, high quality, not too stiff.
Are you cutting, fusing, and then doing all your thread tracing? You must be, or else all the thread tracing would end up under the fuse and would not come out. Excellent work Tany.
Question: Lately I've been lining my sheaths right to the edge - I'll try to find a link to the last several I made. Is there a reason you're making facings and lining to the facings?

Tany said...

Marji: I thread trace before I fuse and the threads don't get caught by the glue; I stick the needle vertically when I'm stitching both layes (fabric/interfacing). The only care here is using silk thread so the threads don't leave an impression when you press to fuse. Keeping the facings is just a personal preference; It gives more body to the upper part of the dress too but I could as well make a full lining and just interface the lining around the neck and armholes. The fabric I'm using is very thin so I thought it would be nice to keep the facings and sew the lining to them.

cidell said...

I just traced out this pattern and then I stumbled upon your blog (from PatternReview.com). I'm excited to see your process. You've at least confinced me to do a musling :)