Sunday, March 27, 2011

2011#4: The Burberry inspired coat – Casaco inspirado em Burberry

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

(podem ver mais fotos minhas a usar o casaco aqui)

Descrição: Sobretudo forrado com saia separável (transforma-se num bolero), tem gola com bandas, dupla abotoadura na frente, presilhas nos ombros e atrás, bolsos de chapa com paleta e abertura nas mangas com zíper metálico. Os botões são de metal escovado e contém também uma presilha de corrente metálica para pendurar.

A inspiração para fazer este modelo foi retirada de um modelo da marca Burberry:

(Créditos da Imagem http://www.cashmoni.com)

O molde base que utilizei (modificado por mim) foi o modelo 102 da revista Burda de Agosto de 2009:

A confecção deste casaco foi extensamente documentada; eis a lista de artigos publicados:

Apresentação do projecto e alguns materiais
Alterações no molde
Reforços da frente superior
Reforços das costas superiores
As vistas da parte superior
Coser a gola
Aplicação da gola no casaco
Abertura nas mangas com fecho metálico exposto
Aplicação das mangas e o zíper na cintura
Parte inferior (saia): Reforços da bainha nos bolsos de chapa
Coser o forro no casaco

Detalhes do casaco (algumas fotos foram clareadas):

A gola: Os fechos metálicos: As casas de botão bordadas à mão (passo-a-passo no blogue do Paco, clicar aqui); é necessário um pouco de prática, acho que as minhas ainda não estão perfeitas, mas não ficaram mal: As presilhas (costas e ombros): Os bolsos de chapa forrados com paleta (o interior da paleta é em forro): O forro com o vivo laranja (passo a passo do vivo também no blogue do paco, ver aqui): Finalmente, o casaco sem a saia: Conclusão: Creio que posso considerar este projecto um sucesso, só tenho pena de ter demorado tanto tempo a completar e agora que já estamos na primavera não vou ter muitas oportunidades para o usar. Irei actualizar o índice de passo-a-passos com todos estes tutoriais e agora vou tirar um tempinho para arrumar a sala de costura, separar os tecidos para a primavera, visitar os vossos blogues (há algum tempo que não tenho tido tempo para o fazer) e sobretudo descansar, que bem preciso! Fiquem bem e obrigada pela vossa visita e o carinho com que sempre me brindam!


(There are more pictures of me wearing the coat here)

Description: Overall double-breasted lined coat with separable skirt (it turns into a bolero without the skirt), has collar with lapels, shoulder and back tabs, patch pockets with flaps and sleeve vent with exposed zipper. The buttons are brushed metal and there is also a metal chain as hanging loop on the inside of the coat.

The inspiration for this coat came from the famous zipper waist Burberry coat:
(Image credits : http://www.cashmoni.com)

The base pattern used (altered to fit the coat’s characteristics) was BWOF August2009 model 102:
The construction of this coat was extensively documented; here’s the list of the published articles:

Presenting the project and some notions
Pattern alterations
Upper front reinforcements
Upper back reinforcements
The bodice facings
Sewing the collar
Setting in the collar
Sleeve vent with exposed zipper
Setting in the sleeves and the waist exposed zipper
Lower section (skirt): Reinforcing the hem and the pockets
Lining the coat

Details (most pictures were lightened, to enhance the details):

The collar: The metal zippers: The hand worked buttonholes (you can find the tutorial for this over at Paco’s blog, click here); it takes practice to make them perfect, I think mine will get better with more practice: The tabs (back and shoulders): The lined patch pockets and flaps (the wrong side of the flaps is made of lining to reduce bulk): The lining with the orange bias tape trim (you can find the tutorial for this at Paco’s blog, click here): The coat as a bolero: Conclusion: I believe I can consider this project as a success, the only bad thing is that since it’s already spring, the chances of me wearing the coat will be little, but there’s always next winter, right? Since my spare time is so little lately, the coat took more time to finish than I expected. Now that it’s finished, I’ll take some time off from sewing; I’ll gather my spring fabrics, I’ll clean up and organize my sewing room and also take some time to visit your blogs, since I haven’t been able to do so lately. Above all, I must take some rest, because I feel exhausted. Thank you all so much for visiting and supporting Couture and Tricot!

73 comments:

AnaJan said...

Well done Tany, the coat turned out gorgeous, and as neatly done as always! Your work is so inspiring!

Bunny said...

Beautiful work, Tany! So on trend too! You look wonderful. Now go take a rest!

Lori said...

Your coat is amazing. Every par of it is so professionaly constructed, thank you for sharing so much information.

Lisa said...

You look fabulous! The coat is awesome. Thank you for sharing your sewing with us.

Gabrielle said...

What an achievement - that coat is just amazing. I seriously don't know how you did it; you are so skilled! Enjoy your rest!

Sigrid said...

Tany, you outdid yourself. What a superb coat this has become. Can I come and take sewing lessons from you?
Thank you so much for all the details of construction again. Like you I didn't have a lot of time to read all but I'm so glad to know this information is there when I will need it.

Vicki W said...

It's a huge success! The coat is perfect!

Mom said...

Beijos!

BeckyW said...

Your coat is gorgeous!!!

j.kaori said...

Your coat is absolutely perfect. The details are stunning, and I really appreciate how you documented your progress so we can all learn from you. Get some rest!

morango & chocolate said...

Lindo Perfeito!!! bjs

Jubi

Erica B. said...

Tany, that coat is fabulous that I'd have to wear it during warm weather! LOL

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

I think your coat is a triumph! Your accuracy and attention to detail is fantastic. Love the coat and I hope you have some chances to wear it now.
Thank you so much for all the information you provide.

Lynsey said...

Wow! Your coat looks fabulous and I have found your tutorials inspirational.

Lanie said...

O casaco é fabuloso! Dei com o seu blog apenas faz pouco tempo, e gostei muito dos tutoriais. Tal vez pode usar o bolero durante a primavera, mas o estilo é clássico, vai poder usar por muitos anos- parabéns!

Diana 'poetsie' said...

I love it.

Summerset said...

Gorgeous. That is one amazing coat!

Adelaide B said...

Beautiful! As always, the care you take with finishing has paid off.

Karin said...

It's absolutely stunning! You look great in it, and the details are perfect! Next winter will come soon enough. Enjoy your rest, I look forward to seeing what you sew this summer.

silvana barbosa said...

Olá!
Parabéns!!!
Ficou perfeito....adorei!
Uma ótima semana pra você.Bjus!

Victoria said...

Beautiful coat Tany and of course it's impeccably done as to be expected! Your hard work definitely paid off. Enjoy taking a little time off and getting your ideas together for Spring. Can't wait to see what's next!

toy said...

you always render me speechless, I am always so inspired by your impeccable work

loopylulu said...

This is really amazing. It really looks as good as the real Burberry jacket.

Jenny said...

Incredible! This coat is truly a marvel. I know it was a huge amount of work to document this process, but I thank you much for doing it. Enjoy your little break from sewing! :-)

Nita said...

Lindo casaco, como sempre.
Obrigada pelas palavras que deixas-te no meu blogue, foi muito emocionante, muito obrigada.

Beijos

Amanda S. said...

Beautifully done, Tany! What an interesting and versatile garment you have added to your wardrobe. mi

mem said...

That is fantastic . I am so glad you got it finished and I hope you have some cold weather so you can show it off. I have noticed these coats here in Australia so maybe I should have a go . I dont wear double breasted though so I wonder how that would look . Well done Tany and again thanks for your great tutorials. Marianne.

Jan said...

The coat is really beautiful. You always do such meticulous work, and your garments show this. Thanks for all of the great blog postings and information.

AllisonC said...

Absolutely impeccable work as always, and so brilliantly documented as well - thank you for taking the time to show all the details, it's really inspiring.

Joyce in NC said...

Just fabulous!! Your attention to detail is great. This is one beautiful coat.

Roberta Granada said...

Oi amiga adoro teu blog sempre tem coisas lindas por aqui,beijokas...
http://agulhaetricot.blogspot.com
http://agulhaetricot.com
http://titacarre.elo7.com.br

Vicki said...

Great jacket Tany. The orange piping is a fun touch.

Jacquie said...

Your coat is exquisite Tany.

Anonymous said...

That coat is nothing less than stunning! Each detail is better than the last...and I agree with an earlier comment, I'd have to wear it a bit in the warm weather, lol. Thanks for sharing the construction details.
Linda

mamamartinho said...

Já terminas-te, que espetáculo!

Ficou bem melhor do que imaginava, muitos parabéns!

Bjs

Mónica

Olga said...

Tany, this coat is perfection! I absolutely love it. And, thank you so much for your generosity in posting the construction details -- I always learn so much from your blog, and I realize it's probably double the work to do all the sewing AND document and post the steps here. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

pontos e acertos said...

ficou lindo eu estava ansiosa para ver,parabéns

Audrey said...

It is a gorgeous coat. I love the the design and how it can convert from a long to short coat. And of course, as always, your workmanship is perfect.

cidell said...

Absolutely, totally, blown away. I think I saw a woman at a museum board meeting wearing the actual coat. I wanted to tell her about your project but realized I might sound like a lunatic, LOL!

Gry said...

Your coat is amazing and your buttonholes look beautiful (better than mine anyway).

Anonymous said...

Dear Tany,

Thank you very much for all the work you put into your blog. The coat is so stylish and techically so interesting, and beautifully made. I love reading your blog and you always inspire me to sew more and to a higher standard.

Enjoy a well deserved rest but please return to inspire and educate us all.

All good wishes,

Anne (UK)

Adrienne said...

STUNNING TANY!!!!

Angela said...

Jaw-dropping! So beautiful and it's been so fun watching your progress!

Bruna Andolfato said...

Adorei!!!!!
estou seguindo seu blog!!!!
Bjim!!!!!

http://munamo.blogspot.com/

Gorgeous Things said...

Just gorgeous as always!!!

Isabelle said...

Tany, it's *amazing*! Congratulations!

melissa said...

oh my Tany, this is just fantastic! I loved the zipper detail even before I realised it was functional, but OH MY it's even better now I see you can unzip it! You've done a truly amazing job on this.

Kaatja said...

Hi, the coat is gorgeous. Oh, I wish every piece of my garderobe would be done with such preciseness. Amazing. I wisch all the best for future projects!

Kaatja said...

I like the jacket.I wish every piece of my garderobe will be done with such preciseness. Not every brand you could rely on with this. I wish you all the best for future projects! K.

paco peralta said...

Está genial Tany...!!! Te quedó perfecto, de veras. Enhorabuena

sewsincere said...

Perfection.....

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Well, you deserve a nice long rest after that! The coat is absolutely exquisite. I am an awe.

Muskelbaby said...

Just perfect. I´m breathless...

Jeanettec said...

Beautiful, beautiful coat Tany. You've done an EXCELLENT job and I have so much enjoyed following along with you. (Taking notes of course.) :) Thanks for sharing.

Jeanette

senaSews said...

Gorgeus! The coat looks fantastic and so well made. Enjoy your break!

Dei said...

Jaw dropping. Amazing that you could look at a garment so complicated and reproduce it so perfectly. It looks beyond fantastic, every detail. Also, thanks so much for the tutorials. I read them thoroughly and will implement some of the techniques in my coat.

Liz Sewmode said...

This coat is really awesome !
Also you it can be worn with every colour. great job !

www.cardiganpumpkin.blogspot.com

Tuca said...

Ola,
Estive fora por uns tempos, já expliquei no blog, estou agora aproveitando para visitar os blogs das amigas. Seu casaco ficou lindo, valeu o tempo que voce gastou na confecção dele. Como voce comentou, vai começar a separar tecidos para a primavera, pois eu já comecei a confeccionar roupas para o inverno, que está dando as caras aqui no Sul. Já estou finalizando também as peças de trico que estavam nas agulhas. Sucesso e boas costuras de primavera. Um otimo final de semana para voce. Bjs.
Tuca.

Amy said...

Tany - I am a longtime reader who's never commented but this just pulls me out. I followed the progress of this coat, and have never seen anything so passionately detailed and exquisitely finished. I hope it's fair to say that this particular project has given something intangible but huge to sewing knowledge--awareness of what one can accomplish in home sewing (with practice and patience!). Thank you for that inspiration! It's just gorgeous.

Celina said...

Lindo, lindo! Perfeição em todos os pormenores, como sempre. Modelo original e muito versátil! Além do casaco em si, adoro o detalhe do vivo cor de laranja. Parabéns, é incrível como no meio do pouco tempo que tens, consegues concretizar este projectos fabulosos. Ainda vais ter bastantes ocasiões para usá-lo antes do Verão, o tempo continua teimoso em adiar a Primavea...
Beijinhos

Maricou said...

Tany,
Sorry to comment so late your masterpiece.
I've been following you process from the beginning.
Thanks for all the time you spent sharing your work.
You are so talented and generous.
I wish there were more people like you in our selfish world.
You must wear this coat it is too beautiful to stay in your closet and you put so much of yourself in it.

sensoussi said...

hi dear a long time for i went there, such a nice coat, and nice idea with the zip to change the project.
Of course nice wool and magnificent faction.
Have a kiss from Marseille
Florence, hope you're great

berry said...

Hi Tany, excellent work with wonderful destails! The coat looks stunning on you, I love the idea with the zipper.
I wish you a good recreation, enjoy the spring time!
Greetings from Switzerland!
berry

DIY Bride said...

Hi Tany. I have been following your blog for 4 years and you always inspire me to be a more detailed sewer. But when you're gone this long I get very worried. Everything okay?

Tany said...

Hi DIY Bride, and thanks for your concern. Everything is fine; it’s just that other aspects in life have been taking precedence over blogging (and sewing! I haven’t been sewing either, except for a very simple top that I managed to sew last weekend). I’m just taking a break, that’s all… I really need it :))

DIY Bride said...

That's good to hear, Tany. I'm very happy it's a break and not illness. Have fun! I look forward to seeing you when you come back.

Audrey said...

Perfeito Tany, estou chocada você fez igualzinho vc é 1000.
Adorei o tutorial da costura.
Beijokas,
Audrey

Anonymous said...

This is absolutely amazing - you are a talented woman! Thank you so very much for the detailed play-by-play, you are helping us all to become better :)

Erin

Coralie said...

I like your blog !
If you like French fashion, I invite you to visit mine and tell me what you think :) and maybe follow if you like, because it means a lot to me !

xx



www.coralieslooks.com -FRENCH FASHION BLOG

Burberry Coats said...

Hello,

These are gorgeous and fabulous coats. Burberry is one of the great company which offering many types branded product. Thanks a lot.....

Sew Passionista said...

Tany,you are so inspiring. Just when I make something that I'm proud of,you show something that makes me want to aim higher. Thank you.

Maja said...

Perfection!

hunt4anarnia said...

Tany! Quit your day job PLEASE! You are such a talented designer and fashion enthusiast to be working 9-5!lol!