Saturday, February 5, 2011

Upper front reinforcements – Reforços das frentes superiores

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Hoje de manhã lá consegui fazer qualquer coisinha (não muito porque acordei já tarde). Comecei por colar entretela de tecido nas peças superiores da frente (lateral e central) e reforçar as orlas com fita beta (fita de entretela termo-colante própria); depois cosi as costuras da frente, golpeando quando necessário; para que as margens fiquem bem assentes, alinhavei-as como mostra a figura:

Depois fixei-as com pontos cruzados, retirando de seguida os alinhavos:

O passo seguinte foi marcar as linhas relevantes com alinhavos, para servirem de guia à aplicação do reforço de peito (estão a ver o avesso da frente):

Depois apliquei o reforço de peito, de acordo com o método de confecção de alfaiate com entretelas termo-colantes, explicado pelo Paco (ver aqui):

Antes de colar a tira branca de entretela na dobra da lapela, devem retirar-se os alinhavos que marcam a linha da dobra, ou estes ficarão colados e dificilmente poderão ser removidos. Aqui têm como ficou a frente superior do lado direito:

Termino com uma foto da Missy, que hoje de manhã implicou com o cabo de alimentação do portátil, queria arrancá-lo da tomada à viva força; provavelmente pensou que eu estava a derperdiçar energia...

Fiquem bem e até à próxima!

Today’s morning (or at least part of it, because I got up really late) was used to resume the works on the Burberry inspired coat, since during the week I wasn’t able to make any progress. I started by fusing woven interfacing to the front pieces (both sections) and also taped some edges (used on-grain woven fusible strips, or beta-tape as they are called in Spain). Then stitched the front sections together, edge-stitching staystitching, clipping and notching as usual for curved seams; I wanted the SAs to stay flat so I basted them in place as shown below:

Then I tacked them down with cross stitches, and removed the basting thread:

Next step was thread tracing all relevant markings; the lapel fold line is useful for guiding the front shield placement (the next picture shows the wrong side of a front panel):

The front shield was applied as per Paco’s instructions for the tailoring a jacket method using fusibles (click here), as mentioned in my previous article:

It’s important to remove the basting thread that marks the lapel fold line before fusing the interfacing there; otherwise the stitches will be very hard to remove later. Here’s the right side view so far:

Finally we get a photo of a cat on a mission: Missy was determined to unplug my laptop’s energy cable; I guess she thought I was wasting electrical power…

Be well and see you all soon!

15 comments:

Karin said...

Great post! I love seeing all the construction details. This looks like it will be beautiful.

Victoria said...

Looking great so far! I love when you show the details of your work so far. BTW, pretty cat!

Mom said...

Como ela cresce rápido!
Comprei a ultralock. Ainda nem tirei da caixa, estou tentando me entender com o manual.
Depois mando notícias.
Você usa alguma linha especial?
Beijos.

Tany said...

Míriam: Ela está com 2,8Kg, pesei-a hoje no veterinário. Está praticamente adulta, a minha pantera...
Para a ultralock deve-se usar linha em cone de boa qualidade; os carrinhos de linha "normais" que se usam na máquina de costura não são práticos, pois a ultralock gasta muito mais linha.
Sua revista vai a caminho... Finalmente consegui passar nos correios na semana passada!
Beijos

Dei said...

Keep the information flowing because I'm reading every detail. Thanks!

Charlene McGill said...

Thanks for the details. It clarifies some of the tailoring techniques I have been reading about.

BTW, I absolutely love your tutorials. When I first saw it, I believe I spent two hours, at least, browsing and reading.

Tany said...

Charlene: You're welcome, and thank you! :))

Jenny said...

Tany, it is already looking beautiful! The inside is as pretty as the outside. :-) I'll enjoy following this project as tailoring jackets still make me nervous.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

This coat looks fantastic, I enjoy seeing all the work that goes into it.

Jacquie said...

I burst into laughter when I saw the picture of Missy on a mission - cats are so inquisitive and mischievous aren't they! Your coat is going to be exquisite. Your work is so precise and neat too - it is inspiring and your blog is a great resource for tailoring tips. Many thanks for keeping it up.

Mamã Martinho said...

Mesmo assim adiantas-te bastante!
A tua gata é mesmo gira! E faz uma boa companhia!

Bjs

Mónica

designingcreations said...

Tany
your posts are a true inspiration to me. Please keep up the good work!
I don't comment often but i read religiously.

Maria Lúcia said...

Oi
Muito boas as suas explicação
assim a gente tem com
saber fazer um
casaco muito bonito.
Parabéns por mostrar
a sua Missy.
Beijos...
Lúcia

sensoussi said...

My dear,
a long time for I came back there, alxays perfectly faction and great inspiration.....Hope you're great, few time and energy fro me to sew, but your posst are so incentive...Hope I'll be able to
Kiss you in Portugal from France....!

Rosânia Chaves Martins said...

Parabéns Tany, seus trabalhos são maravilhosos! Abraços.