Sunday, December 9, 2007

O Casaco Leopardo, finalmente! - Finally the Leopard Coat!

Modelo original – Original model:

Burda Setembro 2007, modelo 104 (imagem cortesia de http://www.burdamode.com/ )
BWOF September 2007, model 104 (images are courtesy of www.burdamode.com )
Gola redonda com pé, mangas raglan a três quartos com virola, bolsos com pestana inclinados e molas de pressão escondidas a fechar à frente são algumas características deste casaco de imitação de pele de leopardo!
Round collar, raglan three quarter sleeves with turned-up cuffs, slanted welt pockets and hidden snap closures are some of the characteristics featured by this fake leopard fur coat!

Modificações ao modelo original – Modifications to the original model:

Não modifiquei o molde mas adicionei alguns detalhes, como os botões, o vivo vermelho no forro e os bordados na dobra do forro atrás.
The pattern was not altered but I added a few extra details to the coat, like the buttons, the red lining strip edge and the red embroidery on the lining back fold.

Inspiração das passerelles – Inspiration from the runway shows:

As imitações de pele de leopardo marcaram presença em vários desfiles de pronto-a-vestir deste Outono/Inverno (todas as imagens cortesia de http://www.style.com/ ):
The leopard print fur was present in many prêt-à-porter runway shows for this season (all images are courtesy of http://www.style.com/ ):

Betsey Johnson:
Blumarine:
Dolce & Gabbana:
Roberto Cavalli:
Valentino:
Confecção – The construction process:

Este casaco usa o mesmo molde da jaqueta roxa que fiz há pouco tempo.
Para a confecção dos bolsos podem consultar o passo-a-passo sobre bolsos com pestana da capa Burda.
This coat uses the same base pattern as the purple jacket I made a few weeks ago.
If you want to learn how I made the welt pockets, I wrote a tutorial (click here) when I was making the Burda cape.


Além disso podem ver os posts acerca deste casaco:
Here are all the previous posts about the leopard coat:

Algumas dicas para costurar imitação de pele – A few tips on sewing fake fur

Mais algumas notas sobre a confecção do casaco – A few more notes on the construction process

Detalhes - Details:

A gola – The collar:


Os punhos; como a imitação de pele tem tendência a deslizar e a sair do sítio, as virolas estão permanentemente cosidas à mão a toda a volta:
The cuffs; I tacked the turn-ups to the sleeve because as you all know, the fur tends to slide, shift and move out of place:
Os bolsos: The pockets:

O fecho do casaco originalmente era para ser feito apenas com molas de pressão escondidas (as minhas são forradas com o cetim preto que usei para o forro):
The front closure was intended to be made only by using big hidden snaps (mine are covered with black satin):
No entanto, depois do casaco pronto, pareceu-me um pouco nú à frente; resolvi experimentar alguns dos botões bordados à mão com contas que a Summerset me tinha oferecido há tempos e o resultado agradou-me; em vez de 3, aumentei o número para quatro e preguei os botões por cima das molas na frente direita do casaco:
When I finished the closures the coat felt like it was missing something… I had Summerset's buttons on hand and I tried them on the coat; well, they felt right to me and I decided to stitch them on top of the snaps, on the right front of the coat:
Para a frente ficar bem, acrescentei um mini-colchete para segurar a orla por baixo da gola. Este colchete fica escondido pela gola e pelas manchas pretas da pele:
Just to make sure the front edge collar lays flat under the collar, I added a small hidden hook & eye that remains virtually invisible under the collar and hidden by the black spots:

O forro: Este é o meu orgulho neste casaco! Na semana passada recebi no correio um pacote do Paco Peralta, que além destas prendas magníficas:
The lining: this is what I'm most proud of, concerning this coat! Last week I received a gift package from Paco Peralta that contained these magnificent gifts:
Continha instruções de como fazer o vivo laranja que o Paco mostra neste filme no seu blog: Chaqueta con Capucha e também neste passo-a-passo: Manual para coser un vivo.
And also the instructions on how to reproduce his orange lining edge strip, the one he shows in this movie: Chaqueta con Capucha; he also published this great tutorial on how to sew this kind of lining edge: Manual para coser un vivo.

Não deixem de visitar o Paco pois o trabalho dele é perfeitíssimo e digno de ser admirado!
Don't miss visiting Paco because his outstanding work is well worthy of being admired!

E agora o forro na vista do decote atrás:
And here's the lining next to the back neck facing:
Nos cantos em baixo, onde os acabamentos são feitos à mão:
The hem corner edge, where the finishing touches were hand sewn:
Notem que como o tecido tem pelo, o vivo cria um efeito acolchoado bastante original, não acham?
Note how the fur fabric creates a quilted effect on the red edge strip! Nice, don't you think?

A parte debaixo das cavas do forro é presa mão por pontos atrás invisíveis à parte debaixo da cava do casaco, para evitar que o forro deslize dentro do casaco:
The lining's bottom armhole is backstitched to the coat's armhole so the lining doesn't shift out of place when putting the coat on or wearing the coat:
Conclusão: Um projecto mais “excêntrico” mas bastante actual, muito confortável e quentinho. Os acabamentos são a cereja no topo do bolo que tornam este projecto especial. Como disse o Paco, ao usar este casaco sinto-me um pouco como Maria Callas, uma verdadeira Diva!
Conclusion: Another trendy garment, very comfortable and warm. The finishing touches are the highlights for this coat and make it so special. As Paco said to me, I'll be feeling like Maria Callas, a true Diva, when wearing this coat!

Quero dedicar este trabalho a dois grandes amigos e ambos respectivamente grandes costureira e costureiro: à Summerset, que criou os botões que adornam este casaco e ao Paco Peralta, por ter tirado um pouco do seu tempo para me explicar a técnica do vivo do forro e por partilhar o seu talento comigo. Ambos são pessoas maravilhosas que gostam de partilhar e que me inspiram diariamente a continuar a melhorar o que faço. Graças à Internet tive o prazer de conhecer pessoas fantásticas e a Summerset e o Paco são dois exemplos de pessoas das quais sinto ser um privilégio e uma honra fazer parte do seu círculo.
Finally I want to dedicate this project to two great friends and both great dressmaker and "modisto/sastre" (the Spanish words for male sewer/tailor) respectively: Summerset, who beaded the buttons and send them to me as a gift and Paco Peralta, for going through the trouble of teaching me his great technique. Both are wonderful persons, highly skilled and willing to share their knowledge with us all. It is a great honour and a privilege to have met them and be considered as their friend.

Paco, una vez más, muchas gracias por todo y también por compartires tu talento con nosotros; tu amistad es muy preciosa para mí!

51 comments:

Adrienne said...

Tany, this is just OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!!! Fantastic job as usual!

Summerset said...

OH, Tany, it's wonderful! I'm so glad you could find a use for the buttons. I was a bit concerned about the wear and tear, but I see that they are for decoration only, and the snaps take the abuse of being used. I like that piped edge - I did the same thing with the swing coat I made last year. It just makes the whole coat look so much more luxurious with that extra bit of piping between the facing and lining.

The outdoor shots are really nice - the coat really stands out in front of all that green foliage.

Vicki said...

Tany, absolutely stunning! All those touches make it an outstanding garment. Enjoy wearing it and thank you again for sharing so much.

Nancy K said...

Wonderful coat! Looks great on you and I love the extra touches on the lining. I love doing the embroidery on the back pleat too. I am always lazy about piping the lining, but yours looks so wonderful I am going to have to add it to the jacket I am making now.

007gurl said...

Love the coat. it's fabulous!!!

berry said...

Tany, you look absolutely great in it! And the details are stunning...just adds the special touch. Your style is awesome!!!

Lashell said...

The jacket is fantastic!!!!!

Bonnie D. said...

WOW! The coat is fabulous. You are really rockin' it!! I love the gloves with it.

christina said...

Tany, this is sooooo chic!

MarilynB said...

Your coat is exquisite. Your choice of the piping on the lining and the beaded buttons make this so special.

Erica B. said...

Tany! The coat is magnificent! I love, love, love the red binding! I promise, you will see this technique from very soon! Fantastic job!

Lori said...

Tany, this coat is so fantastic. You are looking so stylish and ready for a runway walk yourself. Once again, thanks for a all the details.

Vicki W said...

Tany, it's beautiful! I love all of the attention to detail in your garments. You give a lot of thought to even the linings and there's always a nice surprise detail there.

Shannon said...

What a sexy, hip coat. It suits you perfectly. I love all the extra added details - it makes the coat s special!

Lisette M said...

Simplemente maravilloso! Los detalles del forro son bellos, planeo tambien aprender como reproducirlos. Mil gracias por compartir tu tecnica con todos nosotros.

cidell said...

How chic are you?? Gah. And it doesn't even look cold enough in the photo to need it. You are the epitome of style.

marty said...

Tany, another couture garment. It is truly a beautiful coat with lots of pizazz and style. Great job as usual.

Sigrid said...

Tany, you really know how to combine contemporary style with a tailor's way of making it. Sooooo beautiful. And your detailed way really makes this an outstanding coat.

LauraLo said...

Tany, this is so beautiful and it looks perfect on you! Great coat, I adore it. I also adore the red piping (you're right, Paco Peralta is a great talent, I love his blog) and red embroidery on the lining and the gloves... yummy!

Katrin said...

Whow Tany, this is so gorgeous.
I love the lining and the precious details, as always.
And the gloves are looking very elegant, too.
You must really feel like a diva, wearing this coat.

Best wishes,
Katrin

Berry said...

I'm lacking superlatives, wow congratulations it's beautiful. Now I'm off to Paco's.

paco peralta said...

Tany, querida amiga.- Gracias por unas palabras tan amables. El gusto y el placer ha sido mío al poder ver esta fantástica obra terminada. El abrigo está maravilloso y te deseo que lo disfrutes con salud. Un fuerte abrazo desde Barcelona. Paco.

Pta.- El cuello quedá de una factura excelente y los botones están muy apropiados, le dan un toque "vintage", felicidades a Summerset.

Mamã Martinho said...

Que espetáculo de casaco! Ficou fabuloso. O promenor dos botões, e do forro dão-lhe ainda mais beleza do que aquela que já tem.
Parabéns por mais um fabuloso trabalho.

Bjs

Mónica

Linda said...

Tany - You did it again. You took a fashion trend and made it your own. Your coat is stunning, beautiful and awesome. You make the most beautiful items. It is no wonder that you and Summerset have hooked up across the pond, the both of you are amazing artists.

macati said...

beeeeeeem... ficou liiiiiiindo! e com essas luvas um must! estás de arrasaaaaaar! :)

Emily said...

Fabulous coat! I love all of the interior details.

Audrey said...

Tany!!!
Lindo,lindo,lindo ficou espetacular adorei estou sem palavras.
Mil beijos.

Kelroc said...

It is Sooooo Beautiful. Thanks for share this with us.

Mardel said...

Beautiful coat Tany, with perfection in the details.

Oficina das Linhas said...

Ai minha nossa, que beleza de casaco.Já nem falando nos pormenores, que são sempre uma perfeição.

Beijinhos

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - as usual I am in awe of your creation! My DD and I just drooled over your beautiful new coat. Thanks for all the pics and the details on how you made it!

Nancy W. said...

Absolutely gorgeous! I may have to come over and steal it! ;-)I just love the little extra touches on the lining. Wonderful

Rucas said...

Absolutamente divinal, e olha que tudo te fica mesmo bem. Agora os homens que se cuidem que uma leoparda anda á solta, graaaauuuu :)

Beijocas

Isabelle said...

Oh Tany... Your coat is amazing... you look SO beautiful and classy! You look magnificent.

The lining is amazing... Kudos to Paco for sending you a super package!!
Would you agree if I used your embroidery idea for the back pleat of my jacket's lining? This is such a great detail.

Yes, you do look exactly like Maria Callas... Did you know that she is my idol! I have ALL her CDs, and a couple of beautiful books with pictures of her... She's been my idol all through my teenage years and up till today!

So it seems that is another common point between us!

Big, big hugs to you... and big congratulations on this wonderful achievement!
(((((Tany)))))

rosa said...

PRIMEIRO QUERO FELICITAR TE PELO TEU FANTASTICO TRABALHO,E PELA BELISSIMA PAISAGEM QUE COMBINA MUITO BEM COM O TECIDO LEOPARDO FANTASTICO TANY.OS DETALHES SAO PRECIOSOS,LINDOS OS BOTOES DA -SUMMERSET-
E O VIVO LINDISSIMO.QUE PRENDA LINDA DO PACO,ELE REALMENTE É UMA PESSOA AMABLE,É MUITO BOM TER AMIGOS QUE PARTILHEM EXPERIENÇIAS,E OS MESMOS INTERESSES CONNOSCO!
COMO ELE BEM DISSE
-ESTAS UMA VERDADEIRA DIVA TANY-
BEM EU TBM SINTO ME IMENSAMENTE FELIZ DE TER AMIGOS TAO PRENDADOS DE MAOS E DE CORAÇAO.
UMA BOA SEMANA
ROSA

Jackie said...

It's just gorgeous!! Beautiful details!

Tany said...

Isabelle My dear friend, of course I don't mind that you use the enbroidery idea on your Simplicity jacket (in fact it makes me quite happy!)!

Your words are the biggest compliment I received so far!!! Maria Callas is my all time beauty icon! She is so beautiful in a simple way; THANK YOU!!! (((Isabelle)))

Anonymous said...

Tany that coat is SO YOU! And I love the beaded buttons with the animal print - Rawr! Phyllis

Marcia Hilleshein said...

Nossa, Tany, ficou maravilhoso.
Me deu vontade de estudar! Apesar de uma peça grande o trabalho é muto delicado. Fiquei apaixonada.
Bjs, Marcia.

Robin said...

I'm one of Adrienne's friends, and she recommended your blog - WOW! Do I love that coat!! That is absolutely fabulous and I would love to make one for myself now!

Tany said...

Obrigada meninas! Thank you all for the compliments! Gracias, Paco!

I would like to welcome 007gurl, Bonnie D and Robin to Couture et Tricot! Feel free to visit and comment any time!

Tany said...

I would also like to welcome MarilynB to Couture et Tricot! (sorry I missed you in the previous comment!)

ana said...

Hi Tany,
This is the cutest coat I've ever seen. Congratulations.
Ana

Kathleen said...

Tany, have you ever seen the "nameless tutorial" series on my site? It explains how to do that inside front facing, hem and lining juncture so it all lines up neatly.

Tany said...

Kathleen: Thank you, I will look that up! I'm always looking for new ways of improving techniques!

Laura said...

Está lindíssimo, eu normalmente não gosto de casacos a imitar pele de animais, mas este ficou muito elegante =)

lígia said...

Olá Tani,
só para mandar um beijinho e votar no meu favorito: o casaco Leopardo!!!
Deixo-te aqui um site fantástico para mais inspirações! (ainda por cima tem um belo nome ;-)
*Lígia
http://www.mytheresa.com/shop/home.php

Tany said...

Obrigada Lígia! Vou adicionar o link que mandaste à minha lista de links inspiracionais! Beijinhos (e um beijinho ao João também!)

Cafe Couture said...

Hello Tany, i just found your blog in Paco Peralta's blog list and I find it great. I am especially writing because I made a coat, same pattern as your leopard, mine's white and I just added some details. Your's is magnificent. You pay so much attention to details. I m glad to discover your creations. Will keep watching them. Lucia

Tany said...

Hello Lucia and welcome to Couture et Tricot! It's a pleasure to meet you! I'd love to see your coat and I'm always thrilled to meet sewing enthusiasts from all over the world! If you love sewing, we already share a LOT in common!

Mom said...

Eu achava que já tinha visitado o teu blog por completo... mas não, eis que me aparece esta onça que eu não conhecia.
Vou ter que dar outra volta...
Beijos enormes.