Thursday, June 14, 2007

O molde da blusa e a marcação das casas de botão – The blouse pattern and the placement of the buttonholes

Antes de passar às marcações quero mostrar-vos algumas coisas; primeiro, mostrar o que me sobrou do tecido depois de cortar todas as peças:
Before explaining the thread tracing technique (the way I like to do it), I want to show you a few things; first here is the remaining of my fabric after I cut all the pattern pieces:
Quase nada, não é? O que sobrou mal chega para fazer testes das costuras e para afinar a máquina!
Close to nothing! The remaining fabric is barely enough for performing the seam tests and the setting up of the SM!

Vejam os moldes da frente; não notam nada de esquisito?
Now take a look at the front patterns; don't you notice something weird?
Descobri que este molde da Patrones tem uma forma esquisita (e ao meu ver incorrecta) de marcar as casas de botão; na figura seguinte podem ver a casa original a verde; notem o seu posicionamento em relação à linha vertical que marca o centro da frente:
I just found out that this Patrones pattern is marked on a strange way (wrong way, as far as I am concerned) for the buttonhole placement; in the next picture notice the original buttonhole drawn in green; notice its position, knowing that the vertical green line refers to the center front line:
A vermelho podem ver como eu penso ser a forma correcta de marcar uma casa de botão horizontal em relação à marca do centro da frente. A casa deve ultrapassar a marca do centro não mais do que 2-2.5mm e não ficar centrada em relação a esta linha; quando usar-mos a blusa abotoada o botão vai deslizar para o extremo da casa e não ficar no seu meio (porque são casas horizontais).
In red you can see what I think is the correct way to place a buttonhole, in relation to the CF line. The buttonhole should cross the CF line no more than 1/8 inch towards the center. This is so because when wearing the blouse the buttonhole will shift to the side until it is stopped by the button shank (on horizontal buttonholes).

Notas para mim própria: reposicionar as casas em relação à linha do meio da frente; medir os botões e calcular o tamanho correcto para as casas e não usar o tamanho marcado no molde, que pode não coincidir; garantir que um botão é posicionado entre os dois pontos do busto e que os restantes se encontram todos igualmente espaçados entre si; escolher o tamanho de botão adequado ao tamanho do trespasse ou alterar o tamanho do trespasse de acordo com o tamanho dos botões.
Notes to self: re-position the buttonholes according to what I explained above; measure the chosen buttons to determine the final size for the buttonholes; make sure that there is a button between the bust points and that all the buttons are evenly spaced; choose the button size according to the distance between the CF line and the front edge or adjust this distance according to the size of the buttons.

E é tudo por hoje!
This is all for today!

10 comments:

dawn said...

I definitely agree with you on the buttons. I've never seen a pattern like that!

Adrienne said...

Can't wait to see the tracing with thread technique....

Erica B. said...

I agree with you on the buttonhole placements!

Katrin said...

Tany,

you are right with your buttonhole strategy.
I have never seen buttonholes marked like this.
Personally I would go for vertical buttonholes for a blouse, but that definitely depends on the style.

Best regards,
Katrin

Tany said...

Katrin: I couldn't agree more with you. My only doubt here is this: if I'm using my large mother of pearl buttons and bound buttonholes like I plan to, horizontal buttonholes will be more appropriate. But I still have to run some tests first because I don't know yet about the topstitching and my decision on the buttons isn't final yet.

Thank you all for visiting!

Marji said...

You Have to wonder what Patrones were thinking when they marked that pattern.
Love the plans so far for the City shorts and blouse suit.
you have a bunch of American sewists all interested in Thread tracing. The reason it is a mostly unknown technique here is that American pattern co's all include a standard 5/8" seam allowance. In order to thread trace with the patterns we are accustomed to working with, we'd first need to lop off the seam allowance from the pattern.
It makes for a more accurate fitting, but most of us don't take that kind of time for daily projects.
Thank you for demonstrating so thoroughly your technique.
I've done it the way you just showed, with both layers, only once. Usually, when I'm thread tracing, I'm doing it around a muslin pattern that's already been fit then cut apart to use as a pattern, so I have full pieces, right and left, single layer.
Do you ever make a fitting muslin then cut it apart and use the muslin as pattern?

Tany said...

Marji: I never thread trace the muslin; I trace it using a soft pencil instead… Then if there is any alteration/adjustment needed, I transfer it to the paper pattern and then use it to thread trace the fashion fabric. This is a personal preference of mine since I prefer using the thread traced lines as a guide for machine stitching. Using the muslin as a pattern is also a good idea but it would imply precise cutting the SAs on the muslin and stitching at a predefined distance from the edge on the fashion fabric. Thank you so much for your comment!

Marji said...

I was scratching my head, until I figured out, we're coming at this from different POV.
When I cut my muslin apart - I cut it on the stitching lines - I don't remove the stitching, but instead cut it on the newly fit stitching lines - therefore I can thread trace the stitching lines because they have been cut off the muslin.
the cut fabric was thread traced, then serged because it was a handwoven, then mounted to the charmeuse, then during construction all those massive seam allowances were pretty much trimmed away and all the serge was cut off. I just couldnt' bear having it all unravel while working on it.

Tany said...

Oh, now I get it! That’s a good idea! The muslin becomes the pattern (with no seam allowances)! I might use that idea in the future!

Mamã Martinho said...

Concordo plenamente contigo!

Bjs

Mónica