Sunday, June 10, 2007

O decote em V franzido - The gathered V-neckline

Viva Amigas! Tenho que vos dizer que ontem às 3h00am acabei o vestido! No entanto, antes de o apresentar pronto, tenho alguns pormenores da construção para mostrar.
Hi Friends! I finished this dress at 3h00am today, but I want to share some more construction steps before I show you the finished result.

Tendo o vestido e o forro prontos, faltava fazer as alças e pensar na melhor maneira de as aplicar. Não sei se repararam na figura do modelo, mas o decote parece repuxar um pouco para cima e isso deve-se à maneira como as alças foram construídas e inseridas no decote. No meu caso fiz duas alças com cerca de 1.5cm de largura, como podem ver:

After sewing the dress and the lining, I moved on to the shoulder straps and I was wondering what would be the best way to apply them to the dress. If you notice the original model, there are some gaps where the straps supposedly join at the front; I think this happens mainly because of the way the straps are joined together. I made two shoulder straps 1,5cm wide, as you can see:
Notaram os pauzinhos chineses? Serviram para abrir a ferro os valores de costura antes de virar as alças.
Did you notice the chopsticks? I used them to press the seams open prior to turning the straps to the right side.

Para que as alças não repuxem muito o decote à frente, uni-as no ângulo do decote; podem ver dos dois lados como fica (esta parte vai ficar escondida mas mesmo assim gosto de ter cuidado para que as coisas fiquem bem feitas e também para que a junção não fique muito volumosa):
To avoid gaposing at the V-neck, I joined the two straps as a "v" too; you can see both sides (this detail will be hidden but I wanted to make it as neat as possible and also reduce bulk to its minimum):

Depois uni o forro ao vestido, direito contra direito e cosi-o; reparem no pormenor do meio da frente:
Next I pinned the lining to the dress along the upper edge, right sides together, and stitched it; notice the center front:

Antes de virar, as costuras são escaladas e nas curvas fazem-se pequenas incisões em “v”:
Before turning the lining to the wrong side of the dress, trim, grade and clip SAs as usual:
Depois de virar alinhava-se as orlas que irão ser pespontadas em seguida e passam-se a ferro:
After turning the lining inside, hand baste the edges to be topstitched next and press them:
É assim que fica depois de virar a beira do decote para dentro; depois de coser, as fitas passam dentro do canal que é criado e são responsáveis por criar o efeito franzido do decote:
This is how it looks after turning the V-neck edge (I don't know a better word for this) inside. It will be topstitched thus forming a "tunnel" to the straps. Pulling the straps is responsible for the V-neck gathering:

Não se esqueçam de deixar uma pequena abertura para enfiar as alças atrás! Quando se pespontar ao longo das orlas as alças ficaram seguras pelo pesponto mas primeiro é preciso provar para determinar o comprimento correcto.
Don't forget to leave a little opening where to insert the other end of the straps on the back! When the final topstitching is made the straps will be secured in place. First you must try the dress on your body and determine the correct length for the straps.
Esta foi a parte mais complicada; a partir daqui faltam os acabamentos das orlas, coser à mão o forro à abertura do fecho, pespontar a costura horizontal que une a parte de cima à saia (apanhando o forro), fazer as bainhas e o acabamento da racha de lado, crochetar um vivo em croché e aplicá-lo! Os pormenores todos, tempo total de execução e fotos do vestido pronto só amanhã!
Well, this was the tricky part about this dress; from now on all there is to do is topstitching the edges, hand finish the "V" vertex on the neckline, handstitch the lining to the zipper tape, topstitch the horizontal seam that joins the bodice to the skirt (thus catching the lining in place), hem both the dress and lining, finish the side slit, crochet the trim and apply it to the horizontal bodice seam! All the details, total time spent on the dress and finished dress will be up tomorrow, see you then!

10 comments:

cidell said...

Can't wait to see the dress!

KayB said...

Excellent.... as usual! Looking forward seeing the dress.

dawn said...

You did such a nice job with mitering those straps, it's a shame they'll be hidden in the casing!

toya said...

very neat mitering, can't wait to see the finish product

Summerset said...

Nice and neat and covers all the inner workings of the straps! Lovely job.

Erica B. said...

I love the details of the straps! Can't wait to see the dress!

Vicki said...

Your work is always so exact. Everything a work of art. Can't wait to see the final product:)

anna said...

It looks beautiful Tany. I'm curious... how did you use the chopsticks to press the seams open on the straps?

Tany said...

Anna: Thanks! The straps are just fabric "tubes", right? After stitching the lenghtwise folded fabric, I stick the shopstick INSIDE the tube, open the SAs with my fingers and carefully press them open with the tip of the iron using the shopstick as a pressing surface... It's not hard at all on most fabrics but this one was a little "shifty" so it took some time and patience... It's better to press SAs open before turning the straps to the right side, they will look neater when you baste them flat before topstitching! Otherwise the seam will curl inside.

anna said...

Smart technique. Thanks for explaining it.