Monday, June 18, 2007

Forrar a frente dos calções – Underlining the city shorts front panels

Esta técnica costuma ser usada pelos alfaiates nas calças de homem e descobri-a no livro “A costura Tornada Fácil” da Burda (o meu primeiro livro de costura!). Segundo o livro, o facto de se forrar as calças na frente até um pouco abaixo do joelho reduz significativamente a formação de rugas nas frentes das calças. Experimentei pela primeira vez esta técnica no ano passado (usando tecido de forro normal) e verifiquei que realmente as calças não se engelhavam tanto. Desta vez vou experimentar com organza de seda em vez de forro.
This technique is commonly used by tailors and I found out about it in the book "Sewing Made Easy" by Burda (Portuguese Edition). This was my first sewing book! It is stated in this book that if the front panels of the trousers are lined from waist to bellow the knee length, the wrinkles caused by wear are partially avoided. I tried this technique for the first time only last year and I used regular lining fabric for this purpose; I stated that this technique works; while not avoiding wrinkles completely, there are a lot less wrinkles. This time I want to try it using silk organza instead.

Para forrar as calças usa-se o molde da frente das calças para cortar a organza. Tendo a organza dobrada no sentido do comprimento da peça, o molde é colocado atravessado, para que as ourelas (os “lados” do tecido que não desfiam) fiquem nas pernas à altura desejada para o forro e o cós das calças (cintura) fique virada para a dobra central do tecido:
To underline the front panels, the front pattern is used to cut the organza on the crosswise grain. The organza (or any other lining) should be folded lengthwise and the pattern is pinned in a way that the selvages match the required length for the lining and the waist is near the fold (see picture):

Podem ver aqui a ourela da organza, que por si só não precisa de bainha pelo que não é criado um volume desnecessário por dentro das calças:
Here you can see the silk organza's selvage: this way there is no need to hem the lining and there is no additional bulk caused by the hem:

Nas calças que fiz anteriormente podem ver o aspecto da ourela do forro:
This is the lining selvage on my previously made pants:

As peças cortadas em organza são sobrepostas ao avesso das frentes:
The organza pieces are placed on top of the fabric pieces (the fabric's wrong side is facing up):

O molde é preso por cima com alfinetes e depois marcam-se as linhas de costura, as linhas de vinco e as restantes marcações com alinhavos, como já mostrei, tratando as duas camadas como uma só; na figura estou a alinhavar o vinco das calças com o molde dobrado para facilitar:
I pin the pattern to the two layers together and then thread trace all the seam lines and markings (treating both layers as one, i.e. basting directly without the tailor tacks); in the next picture you see me thread tracing the crease line, after folding back the paper pattern by this line:

As frentes depois de alinhavadas ficam assim; as várias linhas da bainha que vêm são para marcar as várias dobras que é preciso fazer na bainha para fazer a “virola” (bainha dobrada para cima). A organza chega até perto da primeira linha mas não chega a ficar presa pelos alinhavos; a linha que marca a bainha verdadeira não é esta primeira linha mas sim a linha a seguir.
The front panels after being thread traced look like this; you can see the crease line and the multiple fold lines at the hem; the organza ends near the horizontal line on the top (this line indicates the top folded hem; the selvage is not caught by the thread tracing, it remains loose); the line following this one is the true hem line.

Não sei se esta semana terei muito tempo para actualizar o blog… De qualquer forma, farei os possíveis!
I don’t know if I will be able to update this blog during the week… Too much work to do and little time… See you as soon as possible!

9 comments:

Adrienne said...

great progress tany!!!! love your post as always!!!

Katrin said...

Tany, this is really professional.
Do you treat fabric and organza as one layer now ? I am curious to see the progress....

Tany said...

Thanks Adrienne and Katrin!

Katrin: Yes, I do; this is one of the situations where thread tracing becomes very useful: the two layers are perfectly joined by the thread tracing and can be handled as a single layer from now on; I could do the underlining minding the turn of the cloth (see http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com/2007/04/entre-forrar-gabardina-underlinining.html - I did this for underlining the trenchcoat) but since I got away without doing it the last time I did this for trousers, I decided to go on without minding the turn of the cloth in this case; of course there is a pleat and the crease on the front panel so I think this is why it's ok to skip the turn of the cloth (that's my opinion anyway).

Mamã Martinho said...

Não sabia disso, mas acredito que resulte. A organza foi bem escolhida para o forro, pois fica mais fresca que um forro normal.

Bjs

Mónica

Vicki said...

This is a great tip when you don't want to fully line the pants. I assume you would not do this if you were doing a full lining?

Tany said...

Vicki: Yes, I guess so! I've never tried a full lining on pants; if I was to make one I think I would follow Sandra Betzina's instructions on her book "Power Sewing". I can't compare both methods but this "half front lining" seems to work and you save a lot of silk organza (in Portugal the lowest price for silk organza is about 22 euros per meter!!! And I would have to order it and wait 2-3 weeks!). Of course I could use any other lining fabric for fully line pants but I think silk organza gives the best results. Thanks!

dawn said...

This would be great for summer pants when you don't want to line them entirely. Thanks!

latoya said...

Gosh, I've never thought about underlining pants, thanks for the turtorial

rosa said...

Realmente só quem gosta mesmo de costura faz estes detalhes de alinhavos tão perfeitos,saber que os fazemos e logo vamos tira-los de novo,é preciso amar esta profissão.bjs