Japanese tailoring video tutorials: How to Sew a Jacket - Passo-a-passo video alfaiataria japonesa: Como confecionar um blazer

EN: Let me start with a little notice: I have been receiving complaints from readers who are unable to load the content of this blog; the problem seems to be solved by disabling the ad blocker on your browser (supposing you're using one). I have not changed anything and I have been running Adsense ads for years so the problem is either on blogger or Adsense side. Please excuse me any inconvenience and do reach out to me if you're having problems viewing the the blog's content.
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PT: Deixem-me antes fazer um pequeno aviso: tenho recebido algumas queixas de leitores que não conseguem visualizar o conteúdo deste blogue no seu PC; o problema parece ser causado por alguns bloqueadores de anúncios (ad blockers), por isso, se tiverem esse problema, tentem desativar o ad blocker no vosso browser (supondo que utilizam um). Não alterei nada no blogue e já uso o Adsense (anúncios) há anos, por isso alguma coisa deve ter mudado no Blogger ou no Adsense para isto começar a acontecer. Peço desculpa por qualquer incoveniente e por favor contactem-me se o problema persistir.

EN: Now for the content of this article; I've recently come upon a Japanese website called Atelier Saison; they specialize in tailoring and teaching and were generous enough to share a series of sewing videos, in which I found true gems. One of the series is called "How to sew a Jacket" and demonstrates how to make a blazer from start to finish. After watching these videos I applied some of the techniques into the making of my next project, DP Studio's Le100 (classic one-button tailored jacket). Their approach to inner structure is much more light than I'm used to but their technique is amazing. Here's the first video which demonstrates how to properly cut the fabrics, a technique often neglected by novice home sewists:
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PT: Passando agora ao conteúdo do artigo propriamente dito, recentemente dei com um website Japonês chamado Atelier Saison; são especialistas em confeção, alfaiataria, e no seu ensino e com grande generosidade partilham vários passo-a-passo em video, entre os quais encontrei várias jóias. Uma das séries chama-se "Como fazer um Blazer" e demonstra tudo, mas mesmo tudo, aplicando os métodos Japosenes. Depois de ver os videos apliquei muitas das técnicas na confeção do meu póximo projeto, o blazer clássico de um botão DP Studio Le100. A abordagem Japonesa utiliza uma estrutura muito mais leve (leia-se entretelas, chumaços, etc.) do que estou habituada, mas a técnica deles é fascinante e aplica-se perfeitamente a qualquer trabalho. Aqui têm o primeiro vídeo, centrado apenas na preparação e corte das telas com a técnica apropriada; isto é algo que muitas iniciantes não sabem e uma peça mal cortada nunca irá assentar bem. Ora vejam como se faz:
EN: Part 2 demonstrates how to refine the cutting and mark all pieces, apply interfacings, stay tape and sew the lining. It was great seeing a method of tailor tacking similar to what I use; I as also intrigued by their way of marking the notches with a chisel; it looks like a time saver.
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PT: A parte 2 demonstra como fazer as marcações e corrigir o corte, aplicar entretelas, fita estabilizadora e também a confeção do forro. O método de marcar com alinhavos é semelhante ao que eu própria uso, mas fiquei mesmo admirada com a forma como eles fazem os piques, com um chisel! Parece-me algo que pode poupar tempo.
EN: Part 3 addresses the sewing of the darts, welt pockets with flaps (their precision is incredible!) and the back vent on the outer shell of the bodice (it's the same method described in DP Studio's instruction file for the blazer):
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PT: A parte 3 endereça a costura das pinças, bolsos pestana com paleta metida (a precisão deles é incrível!) e a abertura/racha nas costas do blazer (é o mesmo método descrito num dos ficheiros de instruções do blazer DP Studio):
EN: Part 4 is about the collar (this one is very different from DP Studio's collar), the sleeve with working vent and mitered corner (real gem here; they sew both sleeve and lining vent on the flat, then close the sleeve and lining back seams as a single step). At this point I was completely hooked on their way of handling the cloth while sewing; no pins, just an awl, a ruler and a seam guide!
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PT: A parte 4 é sobre a confeção da gola (neste caso bastante diferente da gola DP Studio), a confeção da manga com abertura de abotoar "verdadeira" e canto em esquadria (aqui têm uma jóia: o método deles é GENIAL, fazem a abertura e forram no plano e só no fim fecham a costura de trás da manga e a do forro na continuação dessa!). Neste ponto já estava completamente fascinada pela maneira dela manipular o tecido e coser, sem usar alfinetes; apenas uma ponteira, uma régua e um guia de costura na máquina insustrial!
EN: Part 5: More sleeve, attach the sleeve and collar
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PT: Parte 5: Mais manga, coser a manga no blazer e a gola
EN: Part 6: Facing, finishing the back vent, tacking lining to the outer shell (very important and often neglected) and finishing the lining.
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PT: Parte 6: Aplicação das vistas, acabamento da racha atrás, segurar o forro por dentro ao blazer com pontos à mão (muito importante e muitas vezes negligenciado por quem não sabe) e acabamento final do forro.
EN: Lastly, Part 7 is about the finishing details (hand tacking, sew button and buttonholes, and, also very important, the final press (which in my opinion is an important factor differentiating professional work from the amateur) :
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PT: A última parte é sobre os acabamentos finais, incluíndo alguma finalização à mão, coser o botão, casas de botão e por último a passagem final a ferro (muito importante também e várias vezes faz a diferença entre um trabalho amador e profissional):
EN: Hope you enjoy this as much as I do! Here's the direct link to their YouTube channel (click here
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PT: Espero que gostem tanto como eu! Têm aqui o link direto para o canal de YouTube (cliquem aqui)

16 comments:

Veronik said...

This looks great - thanks for sharing!

Evelyne said...

Thank you so much for sharing this video. I too use my rotary cutter for all my projects - how elegant are the true masters.

Vicki said...

Wow, what a find. Thanks for sharing :)

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

those are fantastic, I find them mesmerizing, relaxing and i already learned a couple of new things! thanks for the link.

kitty0313 said...

Wow - wonderful. Thank you for sharing your resources once again!

nowak said...

I am getting the error message also, though I can click it away... It's a security problem with a certificate that is no longer valid. It's the certificate from a sever called "nwidget.networkedblog.com"

Probably the certificate is simply to old and not unvalid due to a hacked site, but since this is typical for a security problem a well managed browser should block the site. ;-)

(That also explains why the problem did pop up without any changes by you... the person managing the networkedblog.com server should have gotten a new and valid certificate.)

Though I am happy I can just click the warning away and then read your great blog!

Tany said...

Nowak Thanks for letting me know, I would never have guessed,... Networked blogs has a widget that connects my feed to Facebook and makes possible for readers to subscribe my blog feed through Facebook,... I would remove the widget except it wouldn't be fair to the subscribers... I will try contacting Networked blogs and see if they can solve this. Thank you again!

Faye Lewis said...

I'm still looking in at your wonderful sewing processes Tany. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Nancy K said...

Thanks for posting this. I make bound buttonholes using a Japanese tailoring method that is so precise and easy. I am looking forward to the pocket flap method since this is something I have not been successful with.

Karen K said...


loved watching this - thanks for sharing. They do A LOT of attaching the jacket to the lining, which I'm not used to, but all the sewing without tacking/basting and use of rotary cutters is IMHO the most efficient and effective way to cut, and I'm glad to see I'm doing it right. Also recutting again. So much learning, of the fine details, LOVE!

Marysia said...

Hi there Tany,

Just dropping by to wish you a very Happy New Year.
Thanks for all the hard work that you put into your blog throughout the year; I love following you!

Thanks also, for the links to the Japanese tailoring videos, so helpful.

Kindest regards,
Marysia.

Marie-Noëlle said...

Thanks for the link Tany these videos are packed full with interesting tips. Btw I can read your blog on my phone but not on my computer

Studio-CyG said...

Ola Tany
Obrigada por este post super educativo e tambem por colocar o link do canal Japonés,ñ conhecia é sempre bom ver como trabalham outros artistas,sempre temos algo a aprender e algo para ensinar neste mundo maravilhoso que é a Internet.
Continuaçao de boas festas
Beijokas para ti e o teu menino

Tomasa said...

Thank you for sharing! I will be looking at these videos over the coming weekend.

Anonymous said...

Thank you for sharing these fascinating videos.

Anonymous said...

Happy New Year Tany!! Thank you so much for sharing those amazing videos. I feel like I should be taking notes, they are packed with great tips! I actually own a japanese chisel as part of my leather making tools and I will definitely try it for notches!