knocking off Miss Fisher's brocade tuxedo jacket - Mission accomplished!

EN Summary: Learn about the process of knocking off this unusual jacket worn by Essie Davies interpreting Miss Fisher in "Away with the Fairies" (Season 1, Episode 8 of Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries). As usual, if blog content doesn't show, try disabling ad-blocker and reload.
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PT Sumário: Este artigo descreve o processo de copiar esta jaqueta tão original usad pela Essie Davies no papel de Miss Fisher em "Away with the Fairies" (Série 1, episódio 8 de Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries). Se o conteúdo não aparecer, tentem desativar o ad-blocker e recarregar a página.

EN: I know I said I would be away from blogging and social networks from a while, but I just couldn't keep myself from sewing and it felt "wrong" not to share this unusual jacket. I have been obsessed by this jacket from the moment I laid eyes on it. The jacket has a notched lapel, probably two-piece sleeves and its most eye-catching detail is the tuxedo-like (divided on the back) peplum with scalloped hem. It took a lot of snapshots while watching the DVD to figure it all out, because I couldn't find detailed information about this jacket online, unlike with other Miss Fisher's looks.

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PT: Eu sei que tinha dito que ia fazer uma pausa do blogue e redes sociais, mas não consegui deixar de costurar alguma coisa e senti-me mal por não partilhar esta jaqueta tão original. Desde que a vi pela primeira vez que fiquei obcecada; a jaqueta tem gola de alfaiate e provavelmente mangas de duas peças, sendo o seu detalhe mais distinto a saia aplicada estilo casaca (mais comprida atrás e dividida ao meio, como nos #grilos") com a bainha ondulada. Tirei uma série de snapshots ao tocar o DVD para poder ter uma ideia exata do modelo, pois ao contrário do que acontece com alguns outros looks da Miss Fisher, não encontrei informação detalhada online.
EN: I knew I could make a very similar jacket, if only I could find the right fabric... Sometime in July, while searching for purple brocade fabric on Etsy I came across this listing of Chinese embroidery brocade (the fabric primary fiber is silk, although it has some polyester in its composition); in spite of being listed as home decorating fabric, it looked quite similar to what I was looking for. I ordered it without thinking twice and stored it away along with the lining and button from my stash so I could pick it up easily when I decided to make the jacket.
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PT: Eu sabia que ia conseguir fazer uma jaqueta muito parecida se encontrasse o tecido ideal... Em Julho passado, enquanto fazia uma busca por brocado púrpura, encontrei esta listagem no Etsy, de Brocado bordado Chinês (sendo seda a sua fibra principal, contém também um pouco de poliéster); apesar de estar listado como tecido para decoração, pareceu-me muito parecido em termos de aspeto com o original e encomendei-o sem pensar duas vezes. Quando chegou, guardei-o junto com o forro e o botão que já tinha em casa, para ter tudo à mão quando resolvesse fazer a jaqueta.
EN: I had the pattern drafted even before finding and ordering the fabric; I could have drafted it from scratch but why would I go through the trouble if I could use and adapt a previous pattern? BurdaStyle 2017/09 model 118 seemed a good start because I could use it "as is" from the waistband up. All I had to do was drafting the peplum like Miss Fisher's. I also eliminated the sleeve vents and looking back I could have easily added pockets but I decided the less bulk around the waist the better (my waist isn't what it used to be two decades ago,...). Because it looked (and measured) rather close-fitting, I traced size 42 while keeping the shoulders width of size 40.
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PT: Já tinha o molde pronto em papel mesmo antes de encontrar e encomendar o tecido; Podia te-lo desenhado do zero, mas para quê ter esse trabalho se posso usar um molde pre-existente e alterá-lo apenas o necessário? O modelo 118 da revista BurdaStyle 09/2017 pareceu-me um bom ponto de partida porque da cintura para cima podia usá-lo praticamente como está. Tudo o que tive de fazer foi traçar o molde da "saia" tal e qual a da jaqueta da Miss Fisher. Eliminei também a abertura das mangas e olhando para trás, poderia bem ter posto uns bolsos metidos no cós, mas acabei por não o fazer porque quanto menos volume adicionado na cintura, melhor (já não tenho a cinta que tinha com 20 anos!). O modelo pareceu-me bem junto, o que confirmei medindo o molde, por isso cortei o tamanho 42, embora mantendo a largura de ombros do tamanho 40.
EN: In spite of the fabric fraying like crazy I think it made a very beautiful jacket. The fabric pressed quite well at lower iron temperatures with steam and the final jacket looks crisp and luxurious in spite of being made using fusible interfacings and modern industry tailoring techniques.
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PT: Apesar do tecido desfiar imenso, a sua característica mais importante foi portar-se muito bem aso ser assente a ferro a baixas temperaturas (no "2")  com vapor e a jaqueta ficou muto bem definida/formada e com um ar muito luxuoso, mesmo apesar de ter usado técnicas industriais de alfaiataria moderna à base de entretelas e fitas  de colar a ferro.
EN: I really love how it looks from the back and I think it came out quite similar to Miss Fisher's:
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PT: Gosto muito das costas e acho que a jaqueta ficou mesmo bastante parecida com a da Miss Fisher:
EN: Collar and lapels are quite crisp and are beautifully finished, and the set-in sleeves came out surprisingly well with this fabric:
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PT: A gola e as lapelas ficaram perfeitas e com um acabamento bonito e as cabeças da mangas também ficaram muito bem (melhor do que esperava com este tipo de tecido):
EN: The waist closure, where the buttonhole was hand-embroidered; the button is precious to me (it was a gift from a very dear friend):
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PT: O fecho da jaqueta, com uma casa de botão bordada à mão; o botão também é precioso (uma oferta de um Amigo querido).
EN: The jacket is fully lined:
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PT: A jaqueta é completamente forrada:
EN: Here's a close-up of its most original feature, the scalloped hem:
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PT: O detalhe da sua característica mais original, a bainha ondulada:
EN: What do you think? Would Miss Fisher approve? :D
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PT: O que acham, a Miss Fisher iria gostar? :D

24 comments:

Nancy K said...

Incredible! I can't wait to see it on you!

Lisa Laree said...

Lovely!

Penny said...

You never cease to amaze me, you work so fast and produce such beautiful garments. Miss Fisher would definitely approve. Thanks for sharing, even though you are on social media holiday.

Rosalind Clayton said...

As others have said, you are an absolutely amazing, gifted & creative person! I wish I had your talent! I have made a couple of tailored jackets that turned out well, but have never done pad stitching, etc. like yourself. Your tailored items are impeccable & Chanel haute couture could not do better! Where did you get the fabric please?

Tany said...

Rosalind, thank you so much for the huge compliment :* ! I've included the link in the text where I described the fabric: "this listing".

AllisonC said...

It's a perfect recreation of your inspiration piece. Stunning result!

Yvonne Madden said...

I am about to watch the complete Miss Fisher series for the THIRD time. It is not a series I watch with my husband because I can't have any distractions when watching that sassy Miss Fisher. You can imagine what a thrill it is when you feature one of her outfits. Thank you! Thank you! Yvonne

Karey said...

Wow. What a great fabric find. Your jacket is fabulous.

mem said...

That is fantastic Tany , I am so impressed by your go to attitude . I love reading your blog and am so grateful fro your posts they keep me inspired even if my capaz=city to get much done is a little low right now but I am getting my sewing room back after a very long renovation so maybe I will start being creative again. I have a client who is the mother of the Miss Fisher TV series producer and I can tell you that there is a movie coming so that is something for you to look forward to :)

Bunny said...

Oh, my, I can so see this on you and it will be stunning. Rasberry color of the brocade will really be beautiful with your coloring. Beautiful work, Tany.

Pfaff said...

You are sooo very good sewing. I love your post. Christine

Pfaff said...

You. sew soo very good. And I Love to read your Post . Christine

Chimaks said...

This is incredible. Is there anyway you can train someone. I need to produce impeccable pieces such as this.

Sigrid said...

Stunning result, the fabric is so close to the original and your sewing impeccable, as always.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

similar? how about exact? this is perfection and great use of that Burda pattern. this is SO pretty!

Andy Du said...

Está absolutamente fenomenal! O tecido é praticamente igual e lindíssimo. Mais um trabalho impecável. Parabéns!

Vicki said...

Great knock off. Looks almost identical. Fabulous jacket, great details. Enjoy.

morangoechocolate said...

Amei, linda demais
me deu até vontade de fazer uma para mim.

Cennetta said...

It's so pretty. Great job on the knock off.

Anonymous said...

Amazing. Do you have a special technique to make your scallops so beautifully?

Tany said...

Anonymous: I can tell you my process: I interfaced the scalloped area with thin knit fusible to stabilize it; I used a template for stitching and then the same template cut from oak-tag for pressing. The lining peplum was cut slightly smaller than the fabric peplum so the seams would roll naturally to the inside, since I didn't do any under-stitching along the scallops; just pressing using the template between lining and fabric to better define the shape of the scallops did the trick. I almost forgot mentioning: I stitched the scallops with a 1/4" seam allowance and clipped the inward corners. Hope this helps!

Mónica Martinho said...

Muito parecido sem dúvida! Ficou muito giro!

Mary B. said...

This is so wonderful. Every time I watch an episode I can't help but be distracted by her wardrobe. What a beautiful jacket you have created. Thank you for sharing.

Anonymous said...

She will certainly approve! What a fantastic jacket, the cut, the fabric, perfection!
Julie