DP Studio's Le809a: Notes on the inner vest and closures

EN Summary: Today's post focuses on the most eye-catching detail of DPStudio's Le809a: the inner vest. I'll also share my final choice for buttons & buttonholes along the front edge of the overcoat. Keep reading the full article (disable ad-blocker and reload if blog content doesn't show).
---
PT Sumário: O artigo de hoje foca-se no detalhe mais chamativo do sobretudo DPStudio Le809a: o colete interior. Também vou mostrar a minha escolha final para os botões na frente do sobretudo e as respetivas casas de botão. Continuem a ler o artigo completo (desativem o ad-blocker e recarreguem a página, se o conteúdo não aparecer).

EN: The sample coat on DP Studio's website shows version a, made form a luxurious reddish brown fabric, featuring large black buttons and a metal zipper with a large ring pull on the inner vest. When I first saw the photos I was obsessed by finding such metal zipper for making this coat. I mean, the coat would look good with a regular zip-pull but the large ring is so eye-catching, IMO...

---
PT: O sobretudo de amostra deste molde no site DPStudio é a versão a, confecionada com um luxuoso tecido castanho avermelhado, com botões grandes de cor negra e um fecho de correr de metal com uma argola gigante no colete interno. Quando vi as fotos pela primeira vez fiquei com a obsessão de encontrar um fecho assim para fazer este casaco. É que um fecho "normal" também serve mas a argola gigante dá-lhe aquele efeito que realmente chama a atenção!
Image credits: dpstudio-fashion.com/en/ --- créditos da imagem: dpstudio-fashion.com/fr/

EN: I couldn't find such zippers anywhere, not even online. A couple of months ago I was beyond excitement when I saw a heavily discounted bomber jacket on www.mangooutlet.com (here) featuring the very same zipper! I ordered a pair immediately (unfortunately this jacket is now sold out but I remember seeing other garments with the same type of zipper there,...). I am pretty sue that any long metal zipper, with large ring or not, would be more expensive than the jacket itself!
---
PT: Não consegui encontrar um fecho de correr assim em lado nenhum, nem mesmo online. Há cerca de dois meses, entrei em êxtase quando vi no site www.mangooutlet.com (aqui) uma jaqueta bomber com um fecho assim, e ainda para mais com um súper-desconto (infelizmente já esgotou este modelo, mas creio que havia outros com fechos assim,...)! Encomendei logo duas e tenho a certeza absoluta que qualquer fecho deste comprimento, com anel ou sem ele, me ia sair mais caro do que a jaqueta!
 Image credits: www.mangooutlet.com --- créditos da imagem: www.mangooutlet.com

EN: I had to shorten the zipper for 4 inches or so (there are several YouTube videos on how to do so; check this one out, for example). Then from then on I knew my vest would be perfect, as I wanted :). The construction went down quite easily (the provided instructions are good IMO, and the only thing I did differently was the under-stitching along collar edge and bottom edge). There are four pattern pieces for making the vest: the front (doubled as facing also; fronts are fully interfaced, facings are not), cut four times; the back collar facing (cut twice: one of the pieces is fully interfaced) the under-collar (it's basically the outer collar here; this piece is slightly larger than the inner collar and it's fully interfaced) and the inner collar (no interfacing). Basically you construct the outer shell of the vest by joining fronts, back facing and outer-collar (all interfaced) and the inner shell by joining front facings (same exact piece as the front, but not interfaced), back facing (the piece which hasn't been interfaced) and the inner collar (no interfacing). The separating zipper is stitched to the outer shell (the one which is interfaced) and the inner shell is then stitched to the outer shell, right sides facing, along front, bottom front and collar edges. I stitched the upper collar edge and the bottom edges firs so I could under-stitch these seams, and afterwords I stitched front edges, before turning the whole thing to the right side. I also back-stitched  the neckline seam of the outer and inner layers together by hand. I machine-basted the facing edges all around at 1/4" (starting at the hem and going around the back facings) before attaching the vest unit to the coat's facings along the same edges. The next step is stitching the partial lining to the facings and top-stitch the joining seam along the vest outline, so coat, facings and vest are all top-stitched together and the vest doesn't shift out of place.

NOTE: The vest back facing pattern piece says cut 2x fabric (on fold) and cut 1x interfacing (on fold); it should actually say cut 3x fabric (on fold) and 2x interfacing (on fold), accounting for the coat's back facing and not just the vest back facings.
---
PT: Tive de encurtar o fecho de correr cerca de 10cm (há vários passo-a-passo no YouTube de como fazer isto, vejam este aqui, por exemplo). Uma vez conseguido o fecho à medida exata, tive a certeza que o colete interior ficaria perfeito e exatamente como queria :). A confeção do colete decorreu sem problemas (as instruções estão bem, na minha opinião, e a única coisa que acrescentei foi o pesponto de girar na orla da gola e na da bainha). Há quatro peças do molde para fazer o colete: a frente (usa-se a mesma peça para a vista da frente do colete, só que enquanto as frentes levam entretela, as vistas não levam; esta peça é cortada 4x no tecido, 2x na entretela), a vista das costas (cortada 2x na dobra do tecido e 1x na dobra da entretela), a gola exterior (é ligeiramente maior do que a gola interior e deve ser entretelada) e a gola interior (não é entretelada). Basicamente cosemos dois coletes: o de fora com as peças entreteladas (frentes, vista do decote atrás e gola exterior) e o interior com as peças sem entretela (frentes, vista do decote atrás e gola interior). O fecho é cosido nas orlas da frente do colete entretelado e depois juntam-se os dois coletes, direito contra direito, pelas orlas da bainha, frente já (com o fecho aplicado) e gola. Eu cosi as orlas da bainha e orla superior da gola primeiro, para poder fazer o pesponto de girar nestas costuras (pespontando rente à costura com as orlas assentes na direção das vistas interiores), e só depois fechei as orlas da frente com o fecho, antes de girar tudo para o direito. Cosi com pontos atrás à mão as duas camadas juntas ao longo da costura do decote. No final pespontei (alinhavei à máquina) as beiras de fora dos dois coletes juntos a 5mm em toda a volta, começando na bainha, passando pelas vistas do decote atrás e terminando junto à bainha do outro lado. O colete está pronto a ser cosido às vistas do casaco por estas mesmas orlas. Depois de coser o forro parcial por cima da costura que une as vistas do casaco ao colete, a costura ao longo da junção com o colete deve ser pespontanda unindo o casaco, vistas e colete e evitando que o colete se mova fora do seu lugar.

NOTA: Há um pequeno erro no molde da vista do decote atrás: Está escrito neste molde cortar 2x tecido na dobra e 1x entretela na dobra, quando na verdade deve ser cortada mais uma peça igual, levando também entretela, para servir de vista do decote no casaco, e não só no colete.


EN: Regarding the buttons: I had planned to use these marbled buttons (1 3/4 inches diameter) combined with mother-of-pearl smaller buttons, and I had already sewn the bound buttonholes on the right front of the coat, yet seeing them together with the metal zipper I began to have second thoughts:
---
PT: A respeito dos botões: tinha planeado usar estes botões grandes marmoreados (4.5cm de diâmetro) com um botão de madrepérola encaixado, e até já tinha cosido as casas avivadas na frente direita do casaco; no entanto, quando coloquei o colete por baixo, achei que os botões não coordenavam bem com o fecho de correr metálico, ficando com dúvidas em relação a utilizá-los neste casaco:
EN: I ended up buying a different set of buttons with the same diameter (also a combination between a larger button and a smaller one), which I believe will fit the global aesthetic of my black overcoat better; they kind of remind me of the old vinyl records and I think the metal of the inner button matches the metal zipper better:
---
PT: Terminei por comprar um conjunto diferente de botões com o mesmo diâmetro dos anteriores (também são uma combinação de um botão grande com um mais pequeno que encaixa no seu centro), que acredito combinarem melhor com o fecho metálico. Lembram-me os discos de vinil de antigamente!
EN: Lastly I wanted to show you guys the notched collar before the vest is attached to the facings of the coat; I think it came out quite well:
---
PT: FInalmente queria também mostrar-vos a gola de alfaiate do casaco, antes de coser o colete às vistas do mesmo; na minha opinião ficou bastante bem:
EN: Hopefully I will finish the coat this weekend and will have plenty of detail photos to share! There's not much to do but the finishing should be impeccable, specially the top-stitching holding vest, facings and coat together; it is important that all layers are accurately in place without shifting or dragging the facings and vest inside. The plan is to pin everything in place with the coat on the dressform, then hand baste the edges to the coat from the right side; when I am certain that everything is in the correct position while the coat is worn, I'll machine-stitch from the wrong side right along the seam that joins the lining to the facings. One of the perks of using an industrial sewing machine is the quality of the stitching being great both on the wrong and right sides of the seam so the top-stitching will look great on the right side of the coat as well!
---
PT: Espero terminar o sobretudo neste fim-de-semana e espero tirar muitas fotos de detalhe do sobretudo terminado! Não resta muito para fazer, mas o acabamento final é crítico, especialmente o pesponto que vai segurar casaco, vistas e colete tudo junto. É importante que todas as camadas fiquem alinhadas perfeitamente, sem as vistas ou o colete ficarem repuxados por dentro do casaco, O plano é colocar o sobretudo há com o colete e o forro cosido às vistas no manequim e prender as beiras do colete com alfinetes no lugar. Depois, ainda por fora, passar um alinhavo no sítio do pesponto, segurando tudo no lugar. Vestir o casaco e verificar que está tudo direito e que as vistas e o colete não encorrilham por dentro do casaco, com ele vestido. Depois é só pespontar pelo avesso, mesmo por cima da costura de junção das vistas com o forro, que também apanha o colete por baixo. Uma das vantagens da máquina de coser industrial é que o ponto que ela forma é tão bonito do avesso como do direito, por isso o pesponto visível no direito do trabalho ficará perfeito!
Thank you all for reading!
---
Obrigada a todos por aparecerem!

Comments

erinalter said…
for future reference, a website i have used for awesome zippers- and other notions- is Pacific Trimming, https://www.pacifictrimming.com/. i don't know if they ship internationally, but i know that they have great options for zippers and other fastenings!

the vest coat you are working on is such an intriguing pattern! i can't wait to see the details of your finished coat!
Vancouver Barbara said…
Your work is always impeccable. It will be beautiful as is everything you make. I love the brown coat - it’s exciting and elegant. Yours will be too. I can hardly wait to see it.
Anonymous said…
As always, amazing couture! However I'm concerned about these DP studio company. They claim "professionalism, rigor, etc." And it seems that there are always some errors in their instructions. I hope they read your blog and review their practices☺. For sure, I won't be buying their patterns. I sew mostly Burda and the big 4 and there are hardly any mistakes, so it shouldn't be that difficult? Julie
Tany said…
Thank you so much Erinalter, also for the online resource! I will certainly look into their website!

Thank you Barbara, lovely as always!

Julie, thank you for your lovely words about my work! It is true that I've found little faults in this pattern, but nothing that someone who knows something about patterns wouldn't fix. When I find an error I always report it back so it can be corrected. Anyway, I buy DP Studio patterns for their design and for the challenge, and I am very satisfied with both! I also studied their pattern making system and it's one of the best I came across so far. I would recommend their ready made patterns to intermediate to advanced sewists though; there's the need to know more than just following the instructions blindly.
I've found errors even in big4 patterns lately. Burda is certainly more consistent than most, but even then do little mistakes sometimes.
Anonymous said…
Sorry to have sounded so critical 😯, I guess it was the proverbial "drop"... I really appreciate their designs which are as you said challenging and innovative. I really enjoy your reviews of them and now that I know more about this coat, such a great idea, I am even tempted... Your reply was thoughtful and gentle, as should have been my comment. Lesson learned ☺. Julie
Tany said…
Julie, by all means I didn't felt your comment was negative! I just wanted to point out that these days, most pattern brands come with small faults! It's due to budget cuts and reduced teams in some cases; in this case I think it's because DP Studio has a small multitasking team and design a LOT of patterns/collections, besides multiple collaborations. I've made patterns from them without any errors (the "caban asymmetrique" comes to mind, for example). I've always reported any found faults to them and they have always assumed it, corrected it and thanked me for my input. From my previous contacts, Dominique Pellen is very accessible and kind. I can tell he really loves what he's doing and it's not just a business to him :)
Anonymous said…
I love the coat. I have also made a coat with a Dickey. I made a waterproof western style jacket. However I put zippers on each side of the Dickey and facing so the Dickey can be interchangeable like Veronica Beard designs. This way I have a waterproof hooded Dickey for rainy days and a fleece Dickey for when I want just a little extra warmth.
Your work is amazing. Thank you for sharing.

Popular posts from this blog

Tailoring methods by Paco Peralta - Métodos de Alfaiataria por Paco Peralta

Couture French Jacket notes: from pattern to muslin – Jaqueta inspirada em Chanel: do molde ao modelo de prova

Weekend Jacket progress report: setting in the sleeves by hand – Progresso na jaqueta este fds: colocação das mangas à mão