Monday, June 14, 2010

Casaco branco estilo militar – White military style coat

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Aqui têm o casaco terminado, sem mais demora! Posso dizer que fiquei muito satisfeita excepto com as mangas: nunca gostei muito da forma como a Patrones desenha o molde das mangas, quanto a mim é muito menos preciso que o da Burda. À frente ficam bem, mas dá-me a sensação que ficam muito a apontar para a frente, o que numa postura direita normal cria rugas na cava atrás. Na foto seguinte (vista detrás) podem ver a manga este efeito na manga direita, que puxei para baixo de propósito em vez de a deixar tão inclinada para a frente como se vê na foto da lateral. Anatomicamente o nosso braço fica um pouco para a frente, mas não tanto e a curva é conseguida mais através do desenho das duas peças da manga.

Molde original: Modelo 40 da revista Patrones 289. Tracei o tamanho 42, de acordo com a tabela de medidas da Patrones:

Descrição do modelo:

Casaco de verão estilo militar com encaixe na cava e ombro, mangas a três quartos e bolsos de encaixe na anca. Tem gola “Mau” e abertura de trespasse na frente. Usei pique de algodão branco, botões em forma de meia bola de latão e forro branco.

Detalhes:

Gola, frente e presilhas (quanto às presilhas, tive que as virar para dentro da gola porque estavam grandes; se fizesse o casaco outra vez colocava a dragona um pouco mais para fora, para a presilha não ultrapassar a gola):


Bolsos de encaixe na anca:

Acabamento das casas por dentro e botões de reforço interiores:

Junção da vista com o forro e a bainha:

Prega nas costas do forro:

Conclusão: Embora alguns detalhes não tenham ficado tão bem quanto eu queria, o casaco é muito bonito e fica muito bem vestido. Como todas as peças que faço, tento que sejam actuais (moda dos casacos militares) mas também suficientemente clássicas para que me durem várias estações. Creio que este casaco vai ter uso durante vários anos! Podem ver fotos de mim a usar o casaco no meu blog de guarda-roupa!

NOTA: Para verem todos os posts e tutoriais relacionados com este projecto, cliquem na etiqueta Patrones#289mod40 (os posts irão aparecer por ordem inversa, incluindo este)


Without further ado, here’s the finished coat! I really love this coat but I’m not 100% satisfied: the sleeves aren’t quite how I like them. I never liked the Patrones sleeve pattern and I fiddled with it for several times. In my opinion it is less precise than Burda’s. They look ok from the front, but I think they lean forward just a little too much. When the arms are hanging straight there are wrinkles on the back. In the back view you can see the right sleeve that I intentionally pulled down for the picture; on the side view you can see it on its natural position leaning forward. Anatomically the sleeve should be leaning forward but I think it’s a little too much in this case. I didn’t get much time to sew this coat and I wanted it done badly so I pay the price for rushing. It’s not a big deal, just isn’t perfect.

Original pattern: Model 40 from Patrones#289. I traced a 42 according to Patrones measurement table.

Description:

Military style summer coat has shoulder/armhole insets, tree-quarter sleeves and hip inset pockets. It features a standing collar and double breasted closure. I used white cotton pique, ball-shaped brass buttons and white lining.

Details:

Front, collar and epaulets/shoulder tabs (as for these last, the shoulder tabs are a little longer; if I would sew this coat again I would place the epaulets a little outward so the tabs would end properly on the collar. My workaround was to fold them to the inside and tack them by hand):


Inset hip pockets:

Inside buttonhole finish and inner reinforcement buttons:

Facing/hem/lining junction:

Back pleat on the lining:

Conclusion: Though I am not 100% satisfied with the end result, I really love this summer coat and I think it looks quite well on. I always strive for trendy pieces (military style is a strong trend this summer) but yet classic enough to be worn for many seasons. I invest far too much work on what I make to be wearing it just for one season and I think I’ll be wearing this coat for many years. You can see this coat taking part of a complete outfit on my wardrobe blog.

NOTE: for all related posts and tutorials on this project, please click on the label Patrones#289mod40

43 comments:

Lori said...

Very beautiful coat, Tany.

Trudy Callan said...

Beautiful work. Love your attention to detail.

Vicki W said...

So glad to see you back to sewing and this coat is beautiful!

JoanneM said...

Wow. Its lovely.

Anonymous said...

Parabéns. Ficou lindo!

Gigi said...

Oh, Tany, that is beautiful! I just love a white coat.

Amanda S. said...

I love this new coat, especially the military styling of it. Great job on all the details, as usual. Enjoy it!

sonoemi said...

A beautiful coat and a great work!
From this jacket I was so excited during the preview and I have bought the extra-Patrones magazine. Now I see your coat and I like it even better.

senaSews said...

Fantastic new coat. And as always so well done!

Mamã Martinho said...

Não comentei nos outros dois posts anteriores, mas comento neste! Vi que ainda deu algum trabalho, e que não ficas-te satisfeita, mas eu adorei! Acho que ficou espetacular e como referis-te vai ser sem dúvida um daqueles modelos que vais usar muitas vezes e por muitos anos.

Bjs

Mónica

Sheila said...

Awesome Jacket and like the details.

Marita said...

It's beautiful, there is something special in a white coat:)

Ana's Closet said...

Ficou fabuloso!! Também já vi as fotos no outro blog.. vê-se que foi feito por ti, para ti!

Beijinhos

SILK-AND-JOY said...

Hello Tany,
I always fight with the sleeves as well- sometimes even with Burda :-)
The coat is a masterpiece as always and you dont have to be so critical.
But is always easy to tell :-)
Best regards
Claudia

Adelaide B said...

It's lovely! I so enjoy all the details you put into your work.

Vicki said...

Fabulous coat. Such beautiful work.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Your work is as always impeccable!
This jacket is beautiful and I love all the details.

gwensews said...

Oh my, what a beautiful coat! I love the collar. LOVE IT! As always, beautiful workmanship.

mem said...

Beautiful Tany , What alot of work you did for us with all your posts. I have been sewing a long time and still learn from you each time I read a blog posting . I really appreciate your efforts. What will you do with the Patrones sleeve problem . Would you consider drafting a new slleve block and then using that to create a sleeve pattern for you garment . ??
Marianne.

CBH said...

Muito bonito, como sempre. Obrigada por partilhar.

Gail said...

Ah Tany, even your failures are masterpieces! Thanks for your recent advice on Patrones patterns. I also have to think about these sleeves now.

Tany said...

Marianne: Thanks! Well, each case is a case; I've managed to make a good sleeve on previous Patrones projects (the coat from the Great Coat sew along comes to mind), it just needs a little work and a muslin to start with... I've found Patrones sleeves sometimes ro be too narrow (I remember the coral bolero), sometimes there's to much space on the back, etc. I feel they are not consistent IMO

Adrienne said...

Beautiful Tany!!

alethia said...

Awesome!

Erica B. said...

Just gorgeous!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - I understand how garments don't always end up the way we've planned but this is a very beautiful coat and I hope you get much wear out of it!

berry said...

Hi Tany, so nice to have you blogging again! I love your new coat, I do love this style a lot. Thank you also for your detailed description of your work in the postings before.
Greetings from berry, Switzerland

Cennetta said...

Superb! It is beautiful.

Cennetta said...

Your coat is beautiful.

lorenabr said...

great job :)

loopylulu said...

This jacket looks great. I hope that one day when I finally get the nerve to sew a coat that it will look half as good as this.

Josie said...

Gorgeous as always!

~ Kimberlee B ~ said...

Fab as always!!! Can't wait to see you in it!

Sigrid said...

Wow Tany, it's a great coat again. Even if you are not completely satisfied it looks perfect as always. Thanks for showing all the details in previous posts. Very helpful.

Filipa said...

Uau!Tenho andado a visitar o blog e fiquei surpreendida com as coisas bela que faz. Agora que terminei o curso estou determinada a aprender a costurar e a ter as minhas próprias criações.
Por acaso não da workshops de corte e costura ou de patchwork em Aveiro, ou sabe de quem de? Vou começar do zero e umas indicações vinhas sempre a calhar =)
Obrigado! filipa.fmag@gmail.com

Analia said...

Tanny: Tu tapado es bellisimo. Me gusta mucho todas las prendas que haces. Te admiro mucho.
Besos,Analìa desde Bs.As. Argentina.

Tany said...

Gracias Analia, muchos besos para ti

cici said...

olá tany
esse casaco ficou maravilhoso, e sua combinação com aquele vestido do outro blog ficou uma graça
parabens
cintia

Zima said...

Olá, Tany! Sou brasileira e nas minhas navegadas pela internet descobri seus blogs e fiquei fã! Eles já estão nos meus favoritos! Só que agora não consigo mais entrar no Tany et la Mode! Só com convite...Gostaria muito de ser convidada! Bjs, Zima.

Tany said...

Oi Zima, tive que passar o blog a privado por motivos pessoais. Por favor envie o seu email para tany0471@sapo.pt para que possa enviar o convite... Bj

Mardel said...

Gorgeous Tany!

Charlene McGill said...

Simply Beautiful!

mi said...

Está lindo, parabéns!