Monday, December 8, 2008

Uma saia muito elegante – A very elegant skirt

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Aqui estou eu de volta! Muito obrigada pelos vossos elogios ao casaco de veludo e por todas as expressões de carinho que tenho recebido! Vocês são o máximo!

Antes de mais, tenho um projecto concluído para vos mostrar; é a saia Burda0709 mod116A, um modelo muito original e elegante:

Descrição: Saia afunilada e forrada, tem encaixe da cintura, pregas na frente, bolsos metidos na anca e fecho invisível na costura central de trás.

Modelo original (website BurdaFashion):

Esta saia faz parte de um conjunto, ao qual chamei “Extravagância cor-de-laranja”, constituído também por umas calças e jaqueta do mesmo tecido, outra jaqueta em tweed cor-de-laranja, uma blusa num tom cinza acastanhado e um bolero em tricô laranja. Quando tiver todos os elementos deste conjunto pronto vou tentar tirar fotos com os diversos elementos conjugados (também não tenho conseguido tirar as tão desejadas fotos no exterior a usar o casaco de veludo porque tem chovido bastante por estes lados).

Construção: A saia é bastante fácil de fazer, mas como o tecido usado é axadrezado e a saia é cortada em viés, o nível de dificuldade aumenta um pouco. As margens da costura central de trás, a linha da cintura no cós e as aberturas dos bolsos são reforçadas com fita beta (podem usar tiras de entretela termo-colante cortadas ao comprimento) para que não se deformem com o uso. Na foto seguinte vêm as margens da orla dos bolsos, como exemplo:

Podem ver como se fazem os bolsos com encaixe na anca neste post anterior. Podem ver o detalhe do bolso, onde tive o cuidado de fazer os quadrados coincidirem:

Mais detalhes:

O fecho invisível nas costas (não consegui fazer com que o cós casasse com os quadrados do meio de trás da saia, pois tive que aproveitar ao máximo o tecido; no entanto existe uma simetria):


O detalhe das pregas na frente:

Conclusão: Gosto bastante da saia, mas se a fizesse de novo acrescentava uma abertura atrás para facilitar os movimentos; a saia sobe um pouco ao andar por ser muito justa ao nível dos joelhos. De resto, o modelo é muito giro e o efeito criado pelas pregas torna-a muito elegante e original!

Entretanto já terminei as calças e o bolero, para publicar mal tenha tempo. Fiquem bem!

Here I am, back from my break! Thank you very much for your compliments on the velvet coat and for your emails and supportive messages while I was gone! You guys are the best!

I have one finished project to show you; it’s BWOF0907mod116A, a very elegant and original skirt:


Description: Figure-hugging lined skirt has a shaped waistband, front pleats, side pockets and invisible zipper on the center back.

Original model (at BurdaFashion):

This skirt belongs to a set of matching garments that I called “Orange Extravaganza”; the elements, beside the skirt, are a pair of wide pleated pants, a jacket (both from the same fabric), an orange tweed jacket, a shirt (sort of grayish brown color way) and an orange knitted bolero. I will try to take pictures wearing these garments when the set is completed (I still owe you pictures of me wearing the velvet coat but since it’s pouring rain for days, it has been impossible to take pictures on the outside as I had planned).


Construction: This skirt would be quite easy to make if it wasn’t cut on the bias and if I wasn’t using plaid fabric. Other than that, it is very straightforward. I reinforced the center back seam, the pocket openings and the waistline with beta tape (you can either purchase the special purpose fusible tape or cut some strips of fusible interfacing – cut along the grain if you are using woven interfacing). The reinforcements are very important, and even more important when working with bias cut fabric. Here’s the pocket opening as an example:

There’s tutorial on the pocket construction on a previous post here. In the next picture you can see the pocket detail and how the plaids match along the opening:

More details:

The center back invisible zipper (you can see that the plaids don’t match on the waistband and skirt, along the center back line; I had to make a few concessions or the fabric wouldn’t be enough for all my planned garments. There’s symmetry though):


The front pleats detail:

Conclusion: I’m quite fond of this skirt but if I was to make it again I’d add a center back slit for ease of movement. The skirt tends to ride up slightly while I walk because it’s close fitting at knee level. Other than this, this model is fabulous and the effect created by the pleats really makes this skirt stand out for its elegance and originality!

In the meanwhile the pants and the knitted bolero are completed and I’ll post them as soon as I get some free time. Happy Sewing!

34 comments:

Summerset said...

I love it!! I want one!! It is absolutely wonderful with the plaid on the bias. You are so right the the reinforcements are critical to making this skirt work properly on the bias.

Claudine said...

Gorgeous!

Erica B. said...

Gorgeous skirt Tany! I love the plaid. I know I would have been pulling my hair out. You did a FABULOUS job matching!

cidell said...

What a great skirt. I've looked at this pattern a couple of times. Love, love, love plaid.

Miss Sewing said...

Hola Tany,
¡qué falda tan bonita! la tela es preciosa y el corte muy elegante y moderno. Los detalles y los acabados espectaculares. ¡Me encanta!
Besos
Ana

Sylvie said...

You did a great job! Congratulations to your wonderful new skirt!

Best wishes,
Sylvie

Reethi said...

This is just beautiful, Tany. Thanks for the detailed hints, I've had some bias failures recently, and this'll be really helpful for the next projects...

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Absolutely gorgeous! You did a fantastic job with matching the plaid and the waist band idea adds a unique detail.

Shannon said...

Love it, love it, love it - I loooove it!!

Lindsay T said...

I love that you combined a traditional plaid with a trendy pattern. It works!

Sigrid said...

Super, I would make one immediately seeing yours, but my figures won't take this style.
Glad you're back, and hope that you enjoyed your blogging break.

toy said...

I love the plaid, the colors are awesome, cute skirt

Vicki said...

Gorgeous Tany! I had forgotten about that pattern. I see you are also catching up on blog posts - thanks for your nice comments on my blog :))

Adrienne said...

Very cute!!!!! Love how you matched that plaid!!!

Susan said...

Phenomenal job! That looks like it is the catalog skirt.

Vicki W said...

I think the skirt must be designed wothout a slit so that you will walk slowly and everyoe can get a good look at the skirt - beacause it's very striking! Welcome back!

Sue said...

Love the skirt - the matching of the plaid is superb!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

The skirt is stunning! I wouldn't have noticed the plaids not matching if you hadn't pointed them out. I am looking forward to the rest of the pieces in the Orange Extravangza wardrobe!

Katrin said...

What a beautiful skirt, I love it. And, as always, a great job on the bias plaid. I can´t wait to see the whole set.
Regards,
Katrin

senaSews said...

Tany, your skirt looks fabulous. You managed the plaids so well. Funny, i have this skirt on my to-do list for a while now. Now i really want to make it.

Nina said...

The skirt is really lovely. The plaid is perfect (as always!) even in the inside.
Have a wonderful christmas time.

Best wishes,
Nina

Josie said...

Hi Tany,
That skirt is hot! Hmmm, reminds me of a lovely plaid I've had in my stash for several years. Inspiring as always.

Mamã Martinho said...

Ficou linda! Estiu desejosa de ver as restantes peças que ainda não conheço e especialmente de ver as combinações!

Bjs

Mónica

Bunny said...

This is the first skirt in a while that I have seen that I would call stunning. Beautiful beautiful work.

designdreamer said...

WOW that's really cute too! (I read about the knit "vest" first) Awsome job of matching the bias plaid (eyes bugging out) Can't wait to see them together!
About the "cut some strips of fusible interfacing – cut along the grain if you are using woven interfacing"
I'm confused, if it's woven shouldn't it be cut on the bias, or it wouldn't mold to curves? also, if it's woven, wouldn't it ravel? Maybe it's that you have access to better quality woven interfacing. Thanks for your help

Tany said...

Designdreamer: The purpose of cutting on the grain is to prevent stretching (every woven interfacing cut on the bias will stretch too). In this case, I've reinforced straight seams, like the CB seam and the pocket edge (the waistline is nearly straight too). I use the same tape for the armholes/necklines but for fitting a curve I must clip/notch the tape, only slightly or it will be week and no good as reinforcement. After being fused it won't ravel at all. You can see this tape applied on armholes on Paco's Tailoring Methods tutorial here: http://pacoperaltarovira.blogspot.com/2008/09/tailoring-methods-sastreria.html - just scroll down until you reach the fusing method section.
There's also another type of commercial tape which is reinforced with a chainstitch to be placed along the seam line; this tape is cut on the bias to better fit the curves and the chainstitch prevents it from stretching. I hope this helps!

Sew Passionista said...

Oh, I love this skirt!.Wish I was still young and slim so I could sew me one!

Celina said...

Adoro! O tecido ficou ainda mais bonito nesse modelo, confesso que não estava a reconhecer o xadrez, de tal modo fiquei impressionada pelo efeito global da peça em si, depois é que reparei que é aquele xadrez que já tinhas mostrado. Gosto ainda mais dele assim. A saia é super elegante.

Amanda S. said...

Great job, as usual. I love all your planned coordinating combinations. Can't wait to see everything.

Adelaide B said...

Love the skirt; love the plaid!

Ana Carina said...

Tany,

É impressão minha ou o tecido tem uns brilhos prateados?! É muito bonito!

O modelo da saia é muito bonito, tenho uma parecida (comprada) e dá um ligeiro efeito balão, não é?
É elegantíssima!

Beijinhos e continuação de bom trabalho.

Digifreebieslist-CreativeBusyHands said...

Tany,

Otimo trabalho como sempre! Ja de olho no proximo post.

Miriam Fabiano said...

Tô adorando toda essa extravagância laranja! Não vejo a hora de poder apreciar a jaqueta.
Gosto tanto das coisas que faz, com tanto zelo, que fico imaginando o dia que vou poder costurar assim também. Ainda me falta muito e desconheço muitas técnicas, mas um dia chego lá. Ainda mais com todas essas suas verdadeiras aulas aqui no blog.
Em tempo: amo esse modelo de bolero e a cor escolhida foi perfeita!
Beijos

LauraLo said...

Gorgeous! I want one tooooooo!!!