Sunday, November 23, 2008

O casaco de veludo: terminado! - The velvet coat: finished!

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Como prometido:


Aqui está, sem mais demora… Queria tirar fotos do casaco este domingo, com luz natural, mas tive visitas de familiares e não tive tempo para o fazer, por isso têm que se contentar com estas fotos tiradas com flash, que não ficam tão bem (o flash cria muitos reflexos que não se vêm ao natural; o casaco é mais escuro e “baço”, com uma cor negra profunda), mas é o que se pode arranjar. Mal tenha oportunidade tiro fotos de mim com o casaco vestido, com luz natural.

Outros planos do casaco no manequim:



A lista de artigos sobre este casaco resume-se ao seguinte:

Introdução e apresentação do modelo e materiais
Cuidados especiais ao lidar com veludo
Alterações iniciais ao molde
Modelo de prova e alterações finais ao molde
Notas sobre a alteração das mangas e a prova do decote
Bolsos nas costuras laterais
Casas de botão avivadas
Detalhes antes de aplicar a entretela de alfaiate
Lapelas e gola empastadas
Lapelas e gola prontas e bainha com fita de remate
Aplicação das mangas em forro – método vintage

Artigos relevantes sobre alfaiataria e técnicas utilizadas:

Métodos de alfaiataria por Paco Peralta (ver aqui no seu blog, em Castelhano)
Aplicação de cabeças de mangas (Sewing Diva Els)
Método de empastar por Ann (blog Ann’s Fashion Studio)

Passemos aos detalhes:

Gola e lapelas:

Fitas de cetim aplicadas à mão na cintura:

Os bolsos metidos na costura lateral:


Quanto ao forro, como sabem gosto sempre de caprichar; um detalhe que lhe dá classe é o bolso interior escondido na frente esquerda (costura que une a vista ao forro):

Quanto à presilha de cabide, resolvi incorporar uma corrente (uma prenda da Laura Popa, assim também tem um bocadinho dela neste casaco!); notem também o bordado que define a dobra do forro nas costas (o forro tem uma dobra até à cintura, fazendo um pequeno fole para liberdade de movimentos; da cintura para baixo a costura é fechada):

Os cantos que unem a vista, o forro e o casaco em baixo (foram cosidos inteiramente à mão, assim como o forro também foi inteiramente cosido à mão ao casaco:

A bainha do forro, e as brides de união do forro à bainha do casaco (a bainha é debruada com fita de algodão larga e as brides são feitas usando o ponto de casear à mão e linha torçal, da mesma forma que fiz no casaco Armani:


Conclusão e agradecimentos:

Mesmo com fotos de qualidade inferior, creio que a qualidade deste casaco salta à vista; os métodos usados na sua confecção foram quase inteiramente “à moda antiga”, excluindo o forro de empastar, que foi colado a ferro (à moda antiga seria unido a casa peça alinhavado com pontos espinha largos e poderia usar-se para o efeito cambraia de algodão ou outro tipo de entretela fina de coser). É um casaco pesado, estruturado sem ser demasiado rígido, que será usado como sobretudo e como tal não pode ser justo e sim ter alguma folga. Apesar disso tem a cintura definida, embora com folga.
Foi um desafio grande, a minha 1ª experiência com métodos de alfaiataria tradicional (para roupa feminina, porque a masculina é diferente) e considero o resultado muito satisfatório. Foi uma aventura cansativa e demorada, mas valeu a pena!
Este casaco tem muito dos meus amigos: primeiro do Paco, que foi excepcional no seu tutorial sobre este assunto, além de me ter enviado os melhores matérias de alfaiataria (entretelas, chumaços, etc.), uma amostra de uma lapela confeccionada em veludo, e de me ter apoiado nesta aventura desde o início até ao final. Também devo à Summerset ter conseguido adquirir uma tábua de passar veludo e à Els parte do conhecimento que apliquei no casaco. Finalmente também um agradecimento muito grande à Marji por ter organizado e tornado possível o The Great Coat Sew Along e por partilhar o seu conhecimento connosco.

E agora, minhas queridas e queridos, preciso de umas férias! Ficarei ausente da Internet por uns tempos (a partir de segunda-feira) e até ao meu regresso desejo a todas(os) muito boas costuras! Abraços!


As promised:


Without further ado, here’s the finished coat; I was planning to take better pictures of me with the coat on, outside and with natural light but my family came to visit and all my plans changed, so you these are what I have for now (I’ll post better pictures as soon as I can). Photographing black velvet is very hard and the flashlight really changes the coat’s appearance; it looks like it has more reflexes; the coat is much more beautiful in real life and I feel really great wearing it!

Other views of the coat on the dressform:



The list of posts on this project is the following:

Introducing the model and fabric/notions
Special care when handling velvet
First pattern alterations
The muslin and a few more adjustments
Notes on the sleeve alteration and the fitting of the neckline
In-seam pockets
Bound buttonholes
A few details before applying the hymo canvas
Lapels and under collar padstitched
Lapels and collar done and hemming the coat
The vintage way of setting in the lining sleeves

Other relevant articles and techniques used:

Methods of Tailoring by Paco Peralta (click here for the original article on Paco’s blog)
Sleeve heads by Els
Padstitching by Ann – Ann’s Fashion Studio)

Let’s move on to the details:

Collar and lapels:

Satin tape embellishment hand sewn around the waist:

The in-seam pockets:


You know how much I fancy a beautiful lining; a classy detail is the hidden lipstick pocket on the left front of the coat:

The hanger loop is made of a silver chain (this chain was a gift from Laura Popa, so there’s something of her in this coat too!); also note the embroidery on the CB lining fold; the lining fold extends to the waist and then it turns into a CB seam:

The facing/hem/lining junction was entirely hand sewn; the lining was also applied by hand to the coat:

The lining hem and the french tacks that join the lining to the coat’s hem on every vertical seam; the tacks are made using buttonhole twist, the same method used on the Armani coat:


Conclusion and acknowledgments:

Even with these poor pictures the quality of this coat shows through; it’s a beautiful coat, one of my best creations so far. I used the vintage tailoring methods except for the underlining (thin knit fusible provided by Paco was used to underline the coat); the vintage way would have me underline the coat with thin sew-on interfacing like cotton batiste or silk organza. This is considered to be an overall coat, hence it incorporates some wearing ease (enough for wearing a jacket underneath, I mean); in spite of this the waist has shaping in it.
This was a great challenge, my first attempt on the traditional tailoring methods (for women’s wear, because men’s tailoring is performed a little differently) and I am very pleased with the outcome. It was a long and labor intensive adventure but it was worth it!
This coat has much of my friends in it: Paco was exceptional on the writing of a very thorough tutorial and he supported me from the beginning of this project, providing the best tailoring materials (canvas hymo, interfacings, shoulder pads, etc.) and his precious advice along the way. I also owe Summerset the acquisition of a velvet pressing board, unavailable here in Portugal as far as I know, and I really appreciated all the knowledge that Els shared with me on the subject of tailoring. Finally I want to thank Marji for making The Great Coat Sew Along happen and for sharing her knowledge, providing a way for people from all around the world to meet and share a great sewing experience!

And now my dear friends, I really need a vacation! I will be absent from the internet for some time (from Monday on) and I wish you all Happy Sewing until my return! Many hugs to all!

63 comments:

Adrienne said...

SIMPLY STUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!! I knew it would be nothing less!
Enjoy your vacation!!

Erica B. said...

Tany, your coat is absolutely gorgeous! I love all of the fantastic details!

Ana'scloset said...

UAU! Ficou lindíssimo! Deste tudo de ti em cada passo e cada detalhe! Valeu a pena todas as horas (calculo que muitas!!) de volta do casaco.
Estás de parabéns!
Boas férias!

Beijinhos

Vicki W said...

Stunning beautiful!! I am sure you turn heads when wearing this!

Anonymous said...

You've outdone yourself, the coat is gorgeous!

Enjoy your vacation too!

Angie R.

Daisy said...

Your coat is amazing. It's beautifully tailored and the fabric really makes it luxurious. Well done.

Christina said...

You must feel like a million bucks - or Euros - wearing this coat. Your hard work has really paid off. Another fabulous piece by Tany!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany I knew it would be absolutely beautiful but it is more. You have done exceptional work...."everything" about this coat is haute couture perfection! Congratulations! I hope you have a relaxing vacation.

Vicki said...

Congratulations on creating a really beautiful garment :) Enjoy your break!

Beth said...

Tany, isto é uma obra de arte!
O casaco ficou nota mil. Pra nós que sabemos apreciar uma boa costura, tá lindo.
Boas férias, e volte cheia de idéias.
Bjs

Janene said...

Oh, my...what a wonderful coat! It is truly beautiful. Many kudos!!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - if you must leave us for a short period of time at least you left with a bang! That coat is soooo beautiful that there aren't words to adequately describe it's beauty! And as always I learned something new from you...I've used regular thread to make the tacks now I know to buy some buttonhole twist.

Hopefully you will be relaxing during your time away...enjoy!

Dawn said...

It's wonderful!

Zoubida said...

This is the most gorgeous coat I've ever seen. This will a be a traffic stopper when you'll wear it. I love everything about it. The choice of fabric, colors, the tailoring. Amazing work Tany, and fabulous coat.

Lory said...

I looooove it! If I were there I'd fight you for it! lol.

No, but seriously, the work is fantastic. You truly have a work of art with this piece. Wear it proudly, you did wonderful. :):):)

Hugs,
Lory

Amanda S. said...

What else is there to write? It is stunning. WOW!

anita said...

Tany, your velvet coat is gorgeous! Congratulations on such a beautiful creation and thank you for sharing your journey!

Enjoy your vacation.:)

senaSews said...

Beautiful, beautiful coat, Tany! All your hard work paid off. Have a nice vacation!

KayB said...

First of all - enjoy your holiday. After this mammoth task you certainly deserve it (I know that from experience having sewn a black velvet coat myself). The coat is absolutely gorgeous - what a treat!

madhatter said...

beautifully done!
tany, this is definitely the most wonderful coat i've ever seen - i'll come right over and rip it off your hands! ^-^

thanks for showing the whole process of creating it, your blog is worth more than 1000 sewing books!

Tina said...

lindissimo, o que mais posso dizer!
Beijinhos e uma optima semana!

Sue said...

I am seriously in love with this coat and it was worth every minute you worked on it!

Have a lovely break and come back refreshed...

Katrin said...

Tany, an absolutely beautiful coat - a masterpiece in couture.
Have a nice vacation.
Best wishes,
Katrin

Elaray said...

Wonderful coat. I especially like the satin trim. You have certainly earned a vacation (but don't stay away too long!)

Claudine said...

WOW. You are my hero.

AllisonC said...

Absolutely superb work - I love that you keep on challenging yourself. Enjoy your vacation!

Lori said...

This is wonderful, Tany. Your work is always so impressive. Have a great vacation.

Els said...

Tany your new coat is superb, a real masterpiece. You showed that sewing velvet, which is one of the most difficult fabrics, could be done if you have the persistence and take the time to investigate and combine old and new sewing techniques.
Enjoy your vacation.

paco peralta said...

Tany.- este abrigo es el ejemplo de un trabajo bien hecho. Aquí está la diferencia entre la "couture" y todo lo contrario. Personalmente, me gusta mucho la línea de hombros con las mangas tan rectas. Enhorabuena. Espero también que disfrutes mucho de estos días de descanso. Besos, Paco

Nancy (nanflan) said...

Fabulous coat!

Lindsay T said...

Congratulations, Tany! This is a beautiful, one-of-a-kind coat and reflects your talent in every stitch. May my next coat be as magnificent as this one.

Marji said...

The coat is absolutely beautiful, and worthy of the couture label sewn into the lining.
Thank you so much for sharing all of your process.
Enjoy your vacation. {{hugs my friend}}

Mamã Martinho said...

Mais um trabalho fabuloso, os meus sinceros parabéns!
Boas férias!

Bjs

Mónica

Anonymous said...

Absolutely fabulous and
exquisitely made. Bravo!

Dei said...

This is exceptional! The coat styling, tailoring and your wonderful tutorials are impeccable!

Summerset said...

Absolutely stunning! Enjoy your little break - you deserve one.

Anonymous said...

Viva, Filhota! Este casaco é uma obra de arte! Parabens!
Chegarei ao Porto ahs 7.30 de sexta-feira dia 5 de Dezembro e volto ao Luxemburgo dia 12 (sexta).
Beijinhos. Mãe

Jackie said...

It is so beautiful!!! Have a great vacation!

Sigrid said...

Gorgeous coat, you certainly will get a lot of compliments. Once again a big THANK YOU for sharing with your wonderful posts.
Enjoy the break.

Sheila said...

What a Luxurious Gem of a garment. You did a fantastic job.

Cindy said...

Oh Tany, it's exquisite! Amazing looking. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Claudia said...

So many details, all worked out in a tany-way: couture-like, perfect and most of all: so stylish!
And thanks for sharing your work with all the detailed photos!
Claudia

Vânia said...

Tá lindo!! Beijinhos

Celina said...

PERFEITO!!!! Magníficos detalhes, uma obra de arte! Tens aí um casaco para ficar em legado às gerações futuras.
E fico tão feliz por o teres terminado como por saber que vais ter uns dias de descanso bem merecidos.
Também te queria perguntar se já viste a VOGUE de Dezembro? Traz um artigo sobre as salas de trabalho da Alta Costura onde um fato demora 150 horas e pode chegar aos 75 mil euros... Lembrei-me logo de ti e deste casaco. ;)

Beijinhos e boas férias

Dana said...

What an exceptional coat! I'm so envious of your attention to detail and the results it produces! You've definitely earned a break. Enjoy the break and the coat!

Ana Carina said...

Autêntica Perfeição!!!
Simplesmente lindo! Este casaco será sempre um clássico que nunca passará de moda.

Ficamos a aguardar as tuas fotos com o casaco.

Beijinhos

melissa said...

Wow, this is truly spectacular, Tany! Having sewn velvet once in my life (and never again!!) I know exactly how difficult the finish you've achieved here is. Bravo!

Maja said...

Pure perfection! I love it! I love all the detail work and the construction is impeccable. Stunning! Enjoy your vacation Tany!

LMH said...

Tany, it's absolutely superb in every way; you have earned a rest! Come back soon.

Linda said...

Another superb garment. A truly beautiful velvet coat. Your sharing of your talent is most appreciated. Wear the coat with pride!

Phyllis said...

Beautiful coat Tany! I love all the fine details.

CORTEYGRIF said...

Hola Tany
gorgeouS as always!
uma trabalheira com muita arte,parabens por mais um belissimo trabalho!
bom descanso amiga,bem mereces
bjs
ROSA

Isabelle said...

Dear Tany,
Congratulations on your amazing coat! I bet you look stunning in this.
I hope your vacation is doing you good... ((((hugs))))

Alexandra said...

Absolutely gorgeous! Enjoy your vacation!

Adelaide B said...

How wonderful. I am always inspired to try harder when I see what you have made.

LauraLo said...

Tany, this is stunning! So beautiful, so beautifully done, so inspiring! Have a great internet holiday, can't wait to see you back wearing that gorgeous coat!

Audrey said...

Ficou divino, divirta-se bastante em suas férias.
Bjs,
Audrey

mirela said...

True Couture! I dream of having a coat like this one, or a jacket...thank you for all the tutorials, I know I'll reference these when I'll find the right fabric.

Filomena said...

Ficou espectacular!

Oasis said...

Your coat is absolutely fabulous, Bravo!

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas(os) pela visita e elogios!
Gracias a todos por su visita y palabras amables!
Thank you ALL for your visit and compliments!!

A big warm welcome to the new commenters!

Nina said...

WOW!

Dei said...

Absolutely fabulous! Thanks for all your posts on the process. They will be used by many.

Enjoy your vacay.