Sunday, November 2, 2008

Alguns detalhes antes de fixar a entretela - A few details before attaching the tailoring canvas

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Como prometido, vou mostrar alguns detalhes do casaco antes de começar a fixar a entretela. Para fixar a entretela vou usar o método que o Paco tão bem explicou e que podem consultar em Português e Inglês aqui e em Castelhano aqui.

Comecemos com as tiras de cetim aplicadas em redor da cintura, que são aplicadas com as costuras verticais já terminadas; as tiras são cosidas à mão, pois à máquina ia arriscar estragar o veludo:

Outro pormenor é o tratamento das casas de botão depois de alinhavar a entretela às frentes do casaco. A entretela da parte direita da frente (a que leva as casas), vai ter uns rectângulos recortados no lugar das casas:

Ao colocar a entretela, as margens de costura do avesso das casas passam por dentro destes rectângulos:

A entretela é depois alinhavada à frente; as margens das casas são aparadas, gradadas e fixadas na entretela com pontos à mão:


Bem, agora começa uma fase bastante trabalhosa… O meu tempo tem sido mesmo muito reduzido e tenho que o aproveitar bem (ou corro o risco de continuar a acumular tecidos sem costurar nada com eles). Por este motivo não devo muitas mais fotos do progresso e sim do resultado final. Até à próxima!

As promised, I’ll show you some details before starting the padstitching on the coat. For attaching the interfacing, tapes and reinforcements I’ll be referring to Paco’s tutorial (you can read it in both Portuguese and English here and in Spanish here).

Let’s start by the satin tapes around the waist, which must be set before the interfacing and after stitching all the vertical seams of the coat’s body; the satin tape is hand stitched because I didn’t want to take the risk of damaging the velvet by using the sewing machine:

Another detail is the buttonhole treatment after basting the canvas in place. The right front interfacing must have the buttonholes cut out as rectangles, slightly bigger than the buttonhole size:

The buttonhole’s SAs are slipped through these rectangles as seen in the next picture:

The canvas is then hand basted to the front; the buttonhole Sas are trimmed, graded and tacked down to the interfacing:


Now the padstitching phase will begin (much work ahead!). My time has been so short and I really must take advantage of the little time I have left do I won’t publish much more progress pictures. You have Paco’s tutorial, which provides all the relevant information on what I’ll be doing next. See you as soon as possible!

19 comments:

Saumspor said...

Thanks for all the tutorials. Just by reading your blog I have started to sew again after a long brake. All the ideas and methods that you post really helps out.

Thanks,

Rósa.

Daisy said...

The care you take in making a beautiful garment is exemplary. I can't wait to see what will surely be a beautiful coat.

toy said...

what are you using to interface your jacket before you padstitch it

paco peralta said...

Tany.- que trabajo tan extraorinario. De esta forma quedan los ojales perfectos y seguros de que no se delatan por el derecho. Observo que pusiste un refuerzo extra de entretela en el pecho. Ya quedo impaciente del resultado final. Un abrazo y hasta pronto, Paco

Tany said...

Saumspor: Thank you and be welcome to Couture et Tricot! I'm very happy to know that my work is inspiring people to start/resume sewing! Hugs to you!

Thank you Daisy!

Toy: I'm using a knit interfacing that Paco sent me along with the tailoring canvas. It's a little thicker than the sample I sent to you some time ago. It works really well on velvet.

Paco: Gracias! Es verdad que hice un refuerzo de pecho con un trozo de guata que me has enviado hace algún tiempo, junto con otras muestras de entretelas de sastre. A ver se termino las solapas hoy! Besitos, querido!

Tany said...

Paco: Discúlpame que me confundí; el refuerzo es hecho de plastrón y no de guata. Más besitos

Adrienne said...

This is going to be stunning!

Vicki said...

This coat is going to be very beautiful and one you will be able to wear for many, many years!

Ana'scloset said...

A fita de cetim ficou impecável! que trabalhão! Mal posso esperar para ver o casaco pronto...

Beijinhos

Mamã Martinho said...

Tens de pensar em fazer projectos mais simples para puderes usar os tecidos que tens. Ou então, uma solução mais dificil será a de não comprares mais tecidos ;).

Seja como for, continua!

Bjs

Mónica

LMH said...

So beautiful.

What kind of stitch did you use to hand sew the tapes? I can't tell from the picture. It looks very good, though.

Tany said...

Lisa (LMH): Thanks! I believe this type of hand stitch is called "even slipstitch" in English. I call them "invisible stitches" because they are hardly visible on the right side if well made (tiny stitches less than 1/8" apart). I use the same stitch to hand sew jacket/coat linings in place too (if I'm using the traditional vintage method, that is; most of the time I use a combined method but on this coat I think I'll be using all vintage techniques just for fun).
Stitching the tapes in place wasn't easy even by hand; the velvet cushions the tape (which is really thin) and the pile also tends to slide the tape away from a straight line. But I think the results are acceptable. There will be a slight rippling when the coat is on though, because each side of the tape was sewn one at a time.
I tried a sample tape sewn to velvet by machine and believe me, the results were disastrous!

Summerset said...

You were wise to hand stitch. The sewing machine can leave such ugly tracks on the velvet. Your coat will be magnificent - the effort to do all the hand stitching will pay off.

Audrey said...

Olá querida por aqui o dia também anda curto, mas o seu trabalho está ficando lindo vou estar sempre espiando pra ver ele pronto.
Beijos,
Audrey

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Excellent work Tany. Your jacket details will be perfect!
It's so nice to see you are finding some time to sew :)

Lory said...

I love your attention to detail, this coat is going to be fantastic. :):):):)

Hugs,
Lory

LMH said...

Tany, thanks for the answer. Isn't it amazing how there really is a place for handwork, because sometimes it does give a more professional look than using a machine? It's great to live now & have all these different ways to do things. I think the hand stitching you've done on this coat will give it that "alive" quality you can never get by machine.

Maja said...

I love your tutorials. I learn so much from reading your blog, thank you!
You are a tremendous inspiration and your attention to detail is amazing.

Ana Carina said...

Tany,

Que efeito lindíssimo fazem as tiras de cetim! Dá um toque de glamour (muitos brilhos, claro!)

beijinhos