Sunday, August 10, 2008

Chado Ralph Rucci by Tany

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Modelo original: Vogue 1048, tamanho 12 (alterado para 14 no peito). Vestido linha-A desenhado por Chado Ralph Rucci para a VoguePatterns, completamente forrado, tem pespontos feitos à mão, tranças e botões feitos com o mesmo tecido, bolsos com pestana, colarinho camiseiro com pé e abertura no centro das costas.

Material:
- Linho azul-turquesa
- Organdi de algodão para forro de empastar
- Cambraia azul-turquesa para forro
- Entretela de alfaiate fina
- Linhas de coser de algodão
- Torçal para os pespontos e bullions
- Botões pequenos transparentes para reforço

Equipamento especial: loop-turner (ferramenta especial para virar os tubinhos de tecido)

Artigos relacionados com este modelo:

Modificações no molde

Detalhes da construção

Reduzir o volume nas costuras

Botões bola chineses

Detalhe da frente e ponto bullion

O ponto bullion (foto tutorial)

Detalhes:

A frente; podem ver que acrescentei uma alfinete de peito para compeltar o look simples deste vestido:

Os pespontos da frente, feitos à mão com torçal (ponto corrido):

O colarinho, todo pespontado à mão:

Os bolsos pestana e uma das aplicações de trança; os bolsos são inclinados e ligeiramente em redondo; as tranças foram cosidas de ambos os lados com pontos à mão invisíveis (os pontos apenas atravessam o tecido do vestido e o forro de empastar; no forro estes pontos não são visíveis):

As costas, também todas pespontadas:

Detalhe da frente (cintura), onde a aplicação de trança superior faz de cinto; notem o remate feito com um troço de tubo de tecido enrolado na ponta da tira do cinto, também para formar um anel por onde passar a trança do cinto:

Quanto ao interior do vestido:

O forro completo:

O acabamento do canto inferior da frente (junção vista/forro/bainha):

O interior do colarinho:

Os botões de reforço no avesso (atrás dos botões de tecido):

A bainha, com a aplicação da trança de tecido através dos pontos bullion:

Conclusão e notas finais: Acho que as imagens falam por si, este vestido simples contém muito trabalho de costura! É uma das peças que fiz que mais gosto, tanto pelo modelo, pela cor e pelo tecido. Não vos vou enganar, não é um vestido para principiantes ou para pessoas com pouca paciência… Tem imensos pormenores que demoram tempo a conseguir. Este vestido é todo sobre costura à mão, boas técnicas artesanais e muita paciência, mas o resultado vale tudo isso!
Os materiais que usei são um pouco diferentes dos aconselhados nas instruções: por exemplo, as instruções dizem para utilizar o mesmo tecido (seda china) para o forro e forro de empastar. Como não tinha seda à mão, resolvi usar a organdi de algodão que o Paco me mandou para empastar e cambraia muito fina para o forro e o resultado foi muito bom. Em vez da organdi de algodão, estou convencida que também se pode usar organza de seda para empastar. Quanto à entretela, a única coisa que é especificada é que seja entretela de coser fina. Usei entretela de alfaiate muito fina (que a Els me enviou), mas podia ter usado outro tipo, desde que não fosse muito grossa e que não engelhasse muito.
Tubos de tecido: nas instruções dizem para dobrar as tiras de viés ao meio e coser a 6mm da dobra, depois aparar os valores de costura para cerca de 3mm; para as tranças foi exactamente o que fiz, mas para os botões deixei os valores de costura; assim os tubos ficam mais cheios e fazem uns botões mais redondos. As tranças têm um guia (no molde) para cortar as tiras em viés à medida; recomendo cortar as tiras um pouco maiores (há tira viés mais do que suficiente) pois ao fazer as tranças o tamanho total minga um pouco e podem acabar com secções de trança mais pequenas que o necessário.
O ponto bullion: tenham em mente que este ponto necessita de algum treino e que é natural que não o consigam perfeito logo à primeira, por isso treinem até adquirir a sensibilidade necessária para fazer os pontos uniformes (o mesmo para os pespontos feitos à mão). Lembrem-se também que o torçal, como o nome indica, tem os filamentos torcidos (enrolados) e que por isso, ao coser, tem tendência a enrolar-se e enlear-se; por vezes convém girar a agulha no sentido oposto à torção para evitar que a linha se enleie ou ganhe nós ao coser.

E é tudo! Espero que os meus posts ajudem quem quiser tentar fazer este vestido e se sente um pouco intimidado pela quantidade de técnicas especiais usadas; quero também dizer que se pode perfeitamente fazer uma versão “light” usando o mesmo molde, com entretelas de colar a ferro (nesse caso entretelar-se-iam as vistas, as zonas dos bolsos, as partes de dentro das costas, os pés da gola e a parte exterior do colarinho). Podem fazer pespontos à máquina e não aplicar tranças; podem eliminar os bolsos; o resultado é um vestido com as mesmas linhas (que por si já são muito bonitas), mas menos requintado.

As linhas deste vestido são rectas, mas no caso de se querer aumentar o busto mais do que um tamanho mantendo a parte inferior justa, penso que a melhor forma seria trabalhar o molde superior da frente fazendo um corte vertical até ao decote e abrindo em baixo: o excesso de tecido resultante pode ser franzido na parte de baixo, criando assim mais caixa de peito.

Espero que tenham gostado e que se sintam inspiradas a fazer este vestido tão bonito!

Referências adicionais:

Exposição Chado Ralph Rucci no Kent State University Museum

Notas sobre o tratamento do linho (Carolyn do blog Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)

Artigo sobre o ponto bullion (Phyllis do blog The Sewing Divas)

Revista Vogue Patterns Junho/Julho 2008 (pág. 24...28: artigo “Deconstructing a Master: The Art and Craft of Chado Ralph Rucci”) – Um grande obrigada à Adrienne por me ter enviado esta revista!


Original model: Vogue 1048, size 12 (tapered to size 14 on the chest). A-line dress designed by Chado Ralph Rucci for VoguePatterns, lined, has hand-topstitching, self-fabric braid trim and Chinese ball buttons, welt pockets, shirt collar with stand and center back slit.

Fabric/notions:
- Turquoise rustic linen
- Cotton organdie for underlining
- Turquoise cotton batiste for lining
- Thin hymo sew-in interfacing
- Cotton Thread
- Buttonhole stitch for topstitching and bullions
- Small reinforcement buttons

Especial equipment/tools used: loop-turner

Previous posts on this project:

Pattern alterations

Construction Details

Reducing seam bulk

Chinese Ball Buttons

Waist front detail and bullion stitches

The bullion stitch (photo-tutorial)

Details:

The front bodice; I added a brooch to complete the simple look of this dress:

The front topstitching; these are saddle stitches (small running stitches):

The collar with stand, all hand-topstitched:

The welt pocket and braid trim detail; the welts follow the trim/seam slight curve; the braid is handstitched on both sides; all the hand stitching remains invisible on the right side and the wrong side, because the needle didn’t go all the way through the lining:

The back, also hand-topstitched:

Front waist detail where the braid trim turns into a belt; both belt end and loop are finished using a small section of bias tube:

As for the wrong side of the dress:

The full lining:

The finishing on the bottom edge corner (lining/facing/hem junction):

The collar from the inside:

The inner reinforcement buttons (they back the Chinese ball buttons on the facing side):

Hem detail with braid trim stitched using bullion stitches:

Conclusion and final notes: I think the images do most of the talking, this “simple” dress comprises a lot of sewing hard work! So far it's one of my favorite garments, I am very pleased with this model, the color and the fabric. I kid you not; this is not a dress for the beginner or for someone with low patience rates… There are loads of little time consuming details. This one is all about hand sewing, good craftsmanship and a lot of patience, but the end result sure is worth all this!
I used a few different notions that the ones recommended; for example, the instructions advise china silk for both underlining and lining and I used cotton organdie for the underlining (sent to me by Paco) and batiste for the lining, both with good results. It is also my opinion that silk organza would work very well for the underlining. As for the interfacing, the instructions mention lightweight sew-in interfacing and I used lightweight hymo instead, gaining on the extra resilience of the hymo (I got this high quality interfacing from Els).
The bias tubes: The instruction tell you to trim the SAs before turning the tubes to the right side; I got good results following this indication for the braid trim but for the Chinese ball buttons the best results were obtained leaving the SAs as is, thus providing extra filling to the tubes. There are cutting guides for the bias strips for each braid section; I recommend cutting the bias strips a little longer because the braids tend to shrink and you risk ending up with a smaller braid section than desired. There is more than enough bias stripes for the extra length and you can cut the braid to measure just before ending its stitching to the dress.
The bullion stitch: keep in mind that this technique requires some practice and that is natural that you don’t get perfect results on your first attempts; you must persevere and gain the necessary sensibility to get perfect and even bullions by practicing first (the same goes for the saddle stitch/hand-topstitching). Do keep in mind that if you use buttonhole twist, you are dealing with a twisted thread that can get more twisted/untwisted while you stitch; so to avoid tangling and undesired knots while stitching you must spin the needle to compensate the added torsion.

And that is all! I hope all this insight on the making of this dress will help those of you who are willing to make this dress but yet feel intimidated by the overload of hand stitching and special sewing techniques; I also think that a “lighter” version of this dress could be accomplished by skipping some of the time-consuming techniques: for example, you may use fusible interfacing instead (in this case fuse the all facings, including the hem facings and back facings, both collar stands, the outer collar and reinforce the pocket area). You can also machine-topstitch and skip the trim/self-fabric buttons. You can also skip the welt pockets. The end result will still be a beautiful dress.

The general style lines of this dress are straight, and all the insets make a FBA hard to figure out. If you want to add more fullness at the chest area, I would slash the front upper bodice vertically and open it on the bottom seam, opening a dart on the pattern; the extra fullness would be eased when stitching the upper bodice to the lower bodice. This implies making a muslin to see if it works well and for trueing the bottom eased seam (this is just an idea, something very simple that might work)..

I hope you enjoyed this sewing journey as much as I did!

Additional references:

Chado Ralph Rucci exhibition at the Kent State University Museum

Notes on pre-treating linen (Carolyn - Diary of a Sewing Fanatic blog)

Article on the Chado Ralph Rucci Embellishment: the bullion stitch (Phyllis – The Sewing Divas Blog)

Vogue Patterns magazine, June/Jully 2008 (pages 24...28: “Deconstructing a Master: The Art and Craft of Chado Ralph Rucci”) – A big thanks to Adrienne for sending me this magazine!

63 comments:

Nancy in A2 said...

Your dress is so beautiful. I am in awe.

Vicki said...

Stunning Tany!

Adrienne said...

STUNNING TANY! And I love your shoes lol!

Adriana B. said...

The dress is impeccable and kuddos for your patience and attention to detail. The shoes are hot:)

Lisa Laree said...

Fabulous! Gorgeous! Amazing! Impressive!

How many hours would you estimate you spent making this?


I don't know if I'd ever have the time or the patience to do this, but I have certainly enjoyed following your process. Thanks so much for taking the time to photograph and write about it!

Ana'scloset said...

Ficou lindíssimo Tany, os meus parabéns! Eu não me atrevia a tanto...
É de louvar a paciencia e a dedicação que pões nos trabalhos que fazes.
O detalhe do alfinete fica mesmo bem, não querendo tirar todos os creditos do vestido, que por si só já faz um vistaço!

Beijinhos

Erica B. said...

Tany, your dress turned out so nice! I have this whole thread bookmarked. I will not have time to devote to this project until next Spring! But I will be referring to yours.

anita said...

Wow, Tany, your dress is a beautiful masterpiece! Thanks for sharing the details and wonderful photos of your journey. Your love for fine workmanship shines through!

Vicki W said...

I'm sitting here in my family room with Summerset and we are oohing and aahing over this beautiful dress! Love all of the braid and hadnstitching detail.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany,this is absolutely a master piece!Your skill..talent..
dedication..in completing every technique "perfectly" shines thru in this completed garment.
You look stunning in it :)
Thank you so much for taking the time to share.

Lori said...

Such a beautiful dress, Tany.

Amanda S. said...

WOW! Great job!!! You are an inspiration to me. Keep up the wonderful work.

Christina said...

Thanks for sharing all of these pictures. You are right that the dress appears simple in style, but all of your handwork realy elevates this way beyond an ordinary dress. Rucci would be proud!

AllisonC said...

Fabulous, it really does look like a lot of work, and a lot of handwork at that, but the end result is well worth it. I adore the look of saddle stitching and wish my machine could do it, think I will just have to bite the bullet and do it by hand!

Josie said...

As always, your garment is beautiful. You should feel very proud. Great workmanship, fab colour, congratulations.

Linda said...

Another beautiful creation. You look great in this and the detailed work is perfect.

KayB said...

Yep, it's a stunner and your patience and love for details makes this dress very special, no wonder it's on of your favourites. Great job!

Katrin said...

Dear Tany,
you can be so proud of yourself!
The dress is absolutely faboulous and ypur patience in the detailed work is really a role model for me.
Best regards,
Katrin

Jenny said...

It turned out beautiful! I also enjoyed reading all the posts leading up to the finished dress.

Gorgeous Things said...

That is so stunning!

Audrey said...

Tany ficou lindo o seu vestido realmente te deu trabalho mas valeu o esforço, ficou perfeito.
Agora quando aos pespontos à mão é o ponto tipo de alinhavo não é, quero saber se você olha o direito e o avesso de "cada" ponto pra ele sair certinho.
No direito eu até consigo fazer com os tamanhos certinhos mas no avesso nunca fica certo e o seu avesso e direito está perfeito.
Beijos,
Audrey

Sheri said...

Wow! You look fabulous! Your attention to detail is amazing. I am becoming a better home sewer reading your blog. Thanks for sharing so much.

Lisa said...

Impeccable, Tany!

You look wonderful. What a fabulous color on you.

Thanks for the sneak peak at construction.

Geri said...

this is sooo wonderful! I really love it.

Cindy said...

Timeless and classic! The impeccable workmanship will give you years of delight each time you wear this fantastic dress,

melissa said...

Wow. Bravo!! This is just jaw-droppingly beautiful. The fine details and special touches you added here really make a difference. I'm in awe of your patience!

Ana Carina said...

Tany,

Palavras para quê?!
Fica-te lindamente!!!

É realmente um vestido lindíssimo, com uma cor fabulosa, linhas rectas mas detalhes trabalhosos que tornam um modelo muito diferente e fora do normal!

Adoro o efeito das tranças!

Beijinhos (vou já consultar a tua lista para ver o que se segue).

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

You are the one person who could make this dress up and do it justice! To say that it's beautiful or wonderful seems so trite especially since there is so much handwork involved in making this amazing creation! So I'll just acknowledge the amazing job you did and say that you look awesome in the dress!

Sylvie said...

You create a really amazing dress! It has so many beautiful details. The colour of the dress ist beautiful and it looks great on you!

Best regards,
Sylvie

loopylulu said...

I've been following the progress of this dress in complete awe. Looking at the finished product I can see all those hours of clean and precise work that you put into it. Love it!

Ambitious Sewer said...

Wow! so many intricate details and the color is so vibrant...I now know for sure that you are a sincere pro at your
craft!...congradulations on such a wonderful turn-out...

Mamã Martinho said...

Ficou fabuloso!

Bjs

Mónica

Anonymous said...

What a beauty and labor of love!

Angie R.

Sew4Fun said...

Superb dress Tany! I love the colour and the details. You really do go above and beyond, and create such impeccable works of art. I don't know where you find the time!!

Mary Beth said...

Simply a beautiful rendition of this pattern and thorough and well written review of your process. Thank you, Tany. It was a pleasure to watch you do this work. Thanks to Pace and Els, too, for supplying "the good stuff" :)

Janene said...

Thanks for sharing all of the hard work you put into the Ricci dress. You have a gift to make the process look effortless even when we know it isn't. I salute you for a great job on the dress!

Marji said...

This is a work of art, and if it was possible to elevate you to another level, I think this dress has done it. Bravo!

Nina said...

What an amazing dress Tany!

CORTEYGRIF said...

QUE GUAPA
ja esperava este reultado fantastico,linda de azul.
valeu apena a trabalheira do bordado,e nao sò!
bjs
Rosa

Adelaide B said...

This is the most amazing dress I have ever seen.

Cafe Couture said...

Tany this is such a fantastic work, you are really THE reference in sewing techniques for me! I hope you will enjoy putting it often. I am speechless when I see such craftsmanship! Such attention to detail. you are the best!

Claudia said...

Oh Tany, couture at its best! I am out of words: everytime when I think your site is the best sewingblog I know, you top it with another outstanding garment!
Perfect!
Claudia:-)

Summerset said...

Wow - I come home and find you've finished the Rucci dress and with such perfection, too! You look marvelous - those shoes are fabulous, too.

Estar Bem Interiores said...

Parabnes ! de facto uma obra de arte este vestido

Anonymous said...

Grande desafio. Parabéns, enqto estou aprendendo a fazer camisetas herings, vc anda bem na frente. Obrigada por compartilhar conosco seus desafisos, quiça um dia farei um vestido como esse. Beijos Vanilda

Cennetta said...

Tany, Your dress is absolutely remarkable. Such a great undertaking and the details are fabulous.

BTW- Those shoes a killer.

Marcia Hilleshein said...

Oi, Tany.
Que loucura é visitar seu blog! Chego a ficar tonta de tata informção... ainda tenho planos de fazer um casaco, mas tenho tanto a aprender, que fico adiando.
Adorei o vestido.
Bjs.

Els said...

Bravo to your “Rucci” dress, you did a marvellous job. Enjoy wearing it.

Gry said...

Thanks for taking the time to share the details. I admire your work very much. Your attention to details is truly inspiring.

Anonymous said...

This is absolutely wonderful! To see you keeping these skills alive gives me the most enormous pleasure - I just wish I was still young enough to wear a dress, and shoes like that.
AnnR in England

Sigrid said...

Marvellous job Tany and the color is perfect. I enjoyed reading your posts on the construction of this dress. I would very much love to make it, and try all the details too, but unfortunately this style wouldn't work on me. But I'm sure that anyone who wants to make this dress, will find your posts very, very helpful.

Jackie said...

Tany, your dress is beautiful! I have been reading your progress and am in awe as others have written. This is a masterpiece!

Audrey said...

Olá querida, vim aqui agradecer o carinho que você teve para comigo, as orações e pela Graça de Deus tudo voltou ao normal.
Que você tenha um maravilhoso começo de semana.
Beijos,
Audrey

Celina said...

Uma obra de arte! Pelos detalhes, paciência, perfeição... Quando me falta a paciência lembro-me destes teus trabalhos super exigentes e de como tu os agarras e de certo modo é inspirador (ainda que estejas num nível muito à frente).
Também adoro o teu (bom) gosto para sapatos ;)

(Obrigada pelo teu comentário na minha saia, tem um gostinho especial ser "avaliada" pelas peritas...)

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas pelos magníficos comentários! Vocês são o meu incentivo!

Thank you all for the fantastic comments! You guys are my inspiration for keeping up the hard work on this blog!

I'd like to thank and welcome all the new commenters to Couture et Tricot: Nancy in A2, Amanda S, Jenny, Janene and AnnR in England!

Tany said...

A big welcoming hug to Gry too (sorry I missed you the first time)!

Anonymous said...

Tany nem sei o que dizer pois ainda estou de boca aberta, pela beleza do vestido.

É de louvar a perfeição e dedicação com que fazes os teus trabalhos.

MUITOOOOOOOOOO parabens.

Alda

do www.Talismaacessorios.wordpress.com

Tany said...

Lisa Laree: Sorry for my late response to your question...
Well, this was a time consuming one! It took two weeks approximately; the first week I was at home so I could spend around 5hrs a day on this dress (the same for the weekends)... The next week I was working at the office so I estimate 1-2 hrs a day... I really don't know for sure how many hours...

Linda said...

I don't know how I missed the entry with the final dress made up and modeled by you. It is stunning! Thank you for sharing the process. That dress is beautiful on you.

paco peralta said...

Querida Tany.- estoy de vuelta y tengo visita obligada para tí para felicitarte por el magnífico tratamiento que hiciste con este patrón de nuestro admirado R.Rucci. Gracias por mostrar todo el proceso de realización, los posts son a cual más ilustrativo, y el resultado final es maravilloso. Disfruta de este vestido tanto como de su confección. Hiciste una obra de arte. Un abrazo, Paco

Jenna said...

Tany, this dress is beautiful on you great job!!! LOVE LOVE the shoes

Miss Sewing said...

Hola Tany,
El vestido es muy bonito y los detalles que tiene me gustan mucho. Gracias por mostrar el proceso de tu trabajo, pues poco a poco voy viendo los pasos que hay que seguir.

Un saludo

Ana

LauraLo said...

I'm pretty much speechless so I will only say this: this is a masterpiece!