Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Vestido C. Ralph Rucci: detalhes da construção - The C. Ralph Rucci Dress: Inner construction details

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Pensei que talvez gostassem de ver alguns detalhes do interior do vestido (antes de colocar o forro), na minha opinião muito ilustrativos da construção deste vestido excepcional.

Os materiais que estou a usar são: linho azul-turquesa para o vestido, organza de algodão como forro de empastar, entretela de alfaiate muito fina (tão fina que podem ver que é um pouco transparente; é a parte beije mesclada) e cambraia azul-turquesa para o forro. Na figura seguinte podem ver o interior do vestido depois de aplicar a entretela de reforço da frente (a entretela de alfaiate; esta entretela é de coser e não de colar a ferro). Reparem no pormenor dos valores de costura gradados e com os piques para assentar as costuras curvas:

Os bolsos de pestana já estão feitos mas por enquanto estão fechados por alinhavos para não deformarem:

O avesso do bolso (que depois ficará escondido debaixo do forro:

As casas de botão avivadas são um pormenor de classe; são minúsculas (pouco mais de 1cm) e têm que ser terminadas com pontos atrás à mão ao longo da costura para fixar as pestanas da casa:

Depois de terminar as casas começo a fazer o forro! Até à próxima!

I thought you’d like to see some of the inner construction details before attaching the lining to the dress; in my opinion, these details are very illustrative of the level of sewing expertise invested in this exceptional dress:

The materials that I’m using are: turquoise linen for the dress, cotton organza for the underlining, very sheer tailoring sew-on interfacing hymo (so thin that you can se through it) and turquoise cotton batiste as lining. In the next picture you can observe the inside of the dress after basting the front edge interfacing. Note the seam treatment, grading and notching/clipping on the curved seams:

The welt pockets are done but still basted closed so they don’t distort:

The wrong side of the pocket that will be hidden by the lining later:

The bound buttonholes are a classy detail; these are very small and I back stitched them by hand along the edge besides tacking on the back as instructed:

After finishing the buttonholes I will start on the lining! See you next time!

24 comments:

paco peralta said...

Tany.- es toda una pieza de "ingeniería" este vestido. Verdaderamente interesantes los detalles de la construcción tanto de este post como del anterior. El cuerpo tiene un aspecto muy bueno con la aplicación del "underlining". Bueno, con todos estos detalles que tiene el vestido no se muy bien si me entran ganas de hacerlo o todo lo contrario......jjjj. Gracias Tany una vez más por tan magníficas explicaciones. Abrazos, Paco

Lisa Laree said...

Tany, thanks so much for taking the time to post these 'inside information pictures! I'd have to go on a serious hunt just to find the notions you've used so far (sheer hymo? Cotton organza? Not at Hancock's....) I'm in awe of your technical ability and attention to detail, as usual. Can't wait to see the finished dress!!!

Ana'scloset said...

Tudo tão perfeitinho, dá mesmo gosto passear, aqui, pelo teu blog!
Vai ficar lindo, de certeza!
Adoro esse tom de azul!

Beijinhos

Adrienne said...

WOW Tany!! Your skills seem to always amaze me. Thanks for showing these details!

Erica B. said...

Tany this dress is going to be so fabulous! I have the fabric, notions and all for it. But I've just not felt like tackling the FBA on the bodice. I can't wait to see yours finished. You may motivate me to make this as my last Summer project!

KayB said...

This is one project which I definitely don't make: well, it's not my style... BUT, this doesn't hinder me to admire and to cheer you on!
Thanks again Tany, for all the little details you let us take part in. I'm waiting to see the result!

Charlene McGill said...

As always, I know this dress will be fabulous like everything else you touch. Thanks for showing all th inner details and techniques. It's what gives the final project that professional look.

Summerset said...

Beautiful! You've been very busy on your vacation with all the new pieces, plus the Ralph Rucci dress. I can tell that you're really enjoying working on this one!

AllisonC said...

It's looking fabulous, inside and outside - all that seam detail is just gorgeous.

rosanne said...

I'm so glad you decided to tackle this project! I love the dress and the style. I'm looking forward to your finished product!

Vicki said...

Thanks Tany for all the details! Will you be washing this in future or drycleaning? I assume you pre washed the linen and cotton - do you do this once or 3 plus times (and dry in the dryer)?

You are putting a lot of structure in it and it is going to sit beautifully.

Beth said...

Olá Tany,
Este vestido é uma obra de arte. Vai ficar lindo com certeza. Que bom que pude ver e entender melhor sobre o forro de empastar que você havia me explicado algum tempo atrás.
bjs

melissa said...

Absolutely beautiful details, Tany!! I can't wait to see the finished dress, you're such a tease! ;)

designdreamer said...

Wow, looks good. Love the color.
Like Lisa, I'm often in awe of the notions you use, and wonder if they're available in my area, I think no, and wonder if you purchase yours online.
If you tried to wash and shrink cotton organdy (organza) wouldn't it just end up a wrinkled mess? Perhaps what you're using isn't as stiff as some of the stuff I've seen.
On a side note, I don't know if you're aware, but your nifty Portugues/English option has a tiny glitch, in that when I click on a picture (to see a detail better), and then go back, your blog is displayed in Portugues, even though the English box is still checked.

Christina said...

I'm excited to see someone finally make this Rucci dress. And you would be my first choice!

Tany said...

Paco: Es verdad, este patrón es una verdadera pieza de "ingeniería", es admirable! Gracias por tu comentario, un abrazo fuerte para tí!

Vicki: You're welcome! I pre washed the linen and the cotton batiste (only once, dried it by machine and steamed the hell out of it - I did it to shrink the fabrics and also to prevent so many wrinkles on the finished garment). As for the cotton organza, I could only steam it with max power or else it would lose its crispness; for this reason I think I may have to dry clean this dress in the future.

Designdreamer: Thank you! Well I don't get many of the notions locally but I don't order them online either; I rely on my very good friends abroad to get me some of the things I need; for example the lightweight hymo was sent to me by Els from Holland who was so kind to get it from her local supplier; the cotton organdy was a gift from my dear friend Paco from Barcelona; I am learning to love this notion, as it gives body without adding too much weight! This won't be the last time that I'll be using it! And yes, I can't wash it or it will lose its crispness.
The glitch: I don't really know how to solve it... I thought maybe if you click with the right mouse button in the picture and hit the "open in a new window" choice, you can avoid this glitch from annoying you...

Rose said...

Tany, your fabric is gorgeous and the details are amazing. As a beginner sewer, I bought the pattern just to dream about sewing one day. I was hoping that someone would make it. Thank you so much for showing all the detailed work you are doing. You inspire me to continue working on my sewing skills - a big learning curve right now.

Vicki said...

Thanks Tany for the feedback. I thought that would be the way you would go and it is nice to see I was thinking correctly. This really is going to be gorgeous when you finish!

nowaks nähkästchen said...

You do so excellent in those details, I love to see the pictures. Thank you for sharing!

Tany said...

Rose; Thank you! Sewing is highly addictive, isn't it? It's a never ending learning experience... Welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany,I admire your work! Your attention to detail and your sewing skills are truly amazing! Your work looks so professional. I love the fabric and colour you chose for this dress.
I'm anxious to start mine now:)
(You are right Tany,if you right click on the picture and open link in new window you don't have the problem of having to re-check the English box)

Mamã Martinho said...

Este vestido é sem duvida uma peça de arte! Pelas fotos dá para ver a quantidade de promenores que ele tem, e que não devem ter sido nada fáceis de os realizar. Mas sem duvida vai valer a pena.

Bjs

Mónica

Maria João said...

Bom dia, vi no seu blog que é uma grande costureira, tem verdadeiras obras de arte. Eu não sou nada boa com costuras, e gostava de lhe perguntar se por acaso não tem nenhum molde para eu tentar costurar um vestido das "mulheres AMISH". Cumprimentos, aguardo uma ajuda sua

Maria João

Tany said...

Olá Maria Joao, bem, primeiro tenho que dizer que não sou costureira, a costura é apenas um hobby ;). Quanto ao molde que pretende, não tenho nada que se assemelhe... Limito-me a usar moldes das revistas e compro alguns da Vogue, mas nunca nenhum molde de vestidos Amish, nem sei se poderá encontrá-lo. Lamento não poder ajudar mais, e desejo-lhe boa sorte.