Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Vestido Chado Ralph Rucci: modificações no molde - The Chado Ralph Rucci dress: pattern alterations

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Este vestido saiu nos moldes primavera/verão da VoguePatterns e criou sensação desde aí. As suas linhas um pouco vintage, o elevado grau de costura manual e as técnicas tradicionais de confecção utilizadas neste modelo fizeram-no destacar-se desde logo.

A primeira coisa que faço quando quero fazer um modelo da Vogue é olhar para as medidas finais (a medida depois de confeccionado, já com a folga) do peito, cintura e anca. Sei de antemão que em termos verticais não tenho problemas com estes moldes e embora as minhas medidas correspondam ao tamanho 14, normalmente o 12 serve-me bem pois prefiro a roupa mais justa e o 12 assenta-me bem nos ombros. As medidas finais (vêm marcadas no molde, uma coisa boa que estes moldes têm pois assim não preciso de os medir como faço com os da Patrones ou da Burda) do vestido no tamanho 12 são 91cm peito (ficaria sem folga nenhuma), 90cm cintura (folga mais que suficiente) e 114cm na anca (bastante folga também). Então o meu problema à partida era apenas aumentar um pouco o contorno de peito, digamos para o tamanho 14, para ter alguma folga. O molde que comprei tem traçado os tamanhos 8-10-12 portanto só tive que adivinhar as linhas para o 14 (baseada no escalado do molde) à altura do peito e desenhá-las a convergir para o tamanho 12 na cintura e nos ombros. Assim mantenho o estilo original criado pelo designer.

A seguir mostro estas modificações nos moldes do corpete:

Parte superior da frente:

Parte inferior da frente:

Parte superior das costas:

Parte inferior das costas:

É claro que estas modificações têm que ser replicadas nas vistas e no forro, seguindo a mesmo procedimento.

Aqui está o resultado, com os ombros e a frente fechados por alfinetes:

Depois de passar 2 dias a modificar o molde, cortar o tecido, cortar o forro de empastar, as entretelas e o forro, alinhavar o forro de empastar às peças em tecido, etc. soube bem começar a coser realmente!


This pattern came out a few months ago by VoguePatterns and it stood out among the Spring Summer Vogue collection due to being a Chado Ralph Rucci design and the extraordinary amount of craftsmanship involved in its construction.

My first approach to a Vogue pattern is comparing the final garment’s measurements to my own, taking into account the design/wearing ease that I find necessary, as my experience tells. I know that I have no vertical measurement issues so I focus on the final chest/waist/hip circumferences. Though my personal measurements point to size 14, I often get good results starting from size 12 and altering it if necessary; this size fits me really well on the neck/shoulders and often there is enough ease on the chest as well so I don’t need to alter it much. In the case of this pattern the final chest circumference is 91cm, which leaves me with no wearing ease; so I decided to add a little extra by tapering the pattern outlines to the size 14 (the shoulders and the waist remain a 12). This pattern multi-sizing is 9-10-12 but observing the way these three sizes were graded, I was able to figure out where the 14 outlines would be. This can only be done successfully from one size to the following; more than that would require a FBA (Full Bust Alteration), but I often get away with this method instead because I’m a B cup and all I need a slight adjustment. This way I can preserve the original straight/not much shaped look intended by the designer.

Next I will show you these alterations for the bodice of the dress (fabric/underlining shell):

The upper front:

The lower front:

The upper back:

The lower back:

These alterations should also reflect on the facings and linings so the corresponding pattern pieces should also be altered using the same principle shown above.

Here’s the resulting bodice, with the shoulder seams pinned in place and the CF line overlapped and pinned:

After spending two days tracing and altering the pattern, cutting fabric, underlining, interfacings and lining, mounting all the pattern pieces, etc, now the fun part begins!

14 comments:

Mary Beth said...

Sweet deal that you're working on this one Ralph Rucci. I don't feel a huge pull to make it myself but I'm totally curious and you sew and blog about your projects in such a detailed manner I always learn a bunch. Thanks Tany!

Celina said...

Tu realmente és um espectáculo! Eu nem consigo imaginar o trabalhão que uma peça dessas dá. Só a preparação já mete respeito, os acabamentos então... Acho que é por isso que muitas pessoas se assustam com a costura. Claro que tudo depende do grau de dificuldade de uma peça e a lógica é começar do simples. Mas para chegar a esse nível é preciso talento.
Bom trabalho!

Adrienne said...

I'm glad you are making this dress. I have no desire at all to make it but can't wait to see it sewn up!!!

toy said...

I love the color of that fabric you chose, I was looking at the pantone color guide for fall and that reminds me somewhat of the Caribbean Blue, its such a fantastic color for fall. I hope everything goes smoothly now that the hard work is done.

Linda said...

Tany, I am so excited that you are making this dress. It will be interesting to see what you find. Where I live I am quickly running out of time to make and wear this season. If it took you two days to do this much, then I know I am looking at a week. This means I'll save it to wear next year. But in the mean time I will pay close attention to your progress. I know this will help me in the future. Oh and I should mention that I am NOT a B cup, so a FBA definitely needs to be done on this pattern. When the time is right I will figure out how. But I fear that poor Ralph will not be happy, because I will need a bust dart somewhere.

AllisonC said...

I'm looking forwrad to following this one There was so much talk about this lovely pattern when it came out, but I haven't seen any finished versions of it yet.

Ambitious Sewer said...

love what I see so far... can't wait for the final results!!!

Adriana B. said...

This is a design that I totally love and knowing how impeccable you are, I am very intrigued about the final result.

Mamã Martinho said...

E eu a pensar que ainda estarias a fazer o molde ou o corte, e no entanto já tens a parte de cima feita. Já dá para ter uma ideia de como vai ficar, pelo menos vendo a "amostra" que já fizes-te.

Bjs

Mónica

Sismada said...

Adoro a cor, o modelo, o tecido!
Perfeito as modificações, acredito que já tivesses é vontade de pegar no vestido do inicio ao fim para coser...
Os moldes são maravilha mas por vezes cansam-nos ;)
Beijinhos e boa semana

Marji said...

Oh I'm so excited to see that you are tackling this pattern.
You won't believe it, but I've dreamt of this pattern this week.
Thank you so much, as I know you're going to share the whole process.

ROSA said...

Ola Tany
gosto muito do modelo e a cor minha preferida,mas realmente a transformaçao dos moldes dao um bocado de dor de cabeça.
isto da costra exige muito atè à confecçao de uma peça,mas o resultado è prazeroso.
feliz domingo
bjs
ROSA

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, thank you for sharing your fitting steps.I know when I get around to starting mine I will refer to your posts.
I started reading from the top and worked my way to here....and I really enjoyed reading about this dress. Thank you!

Cafe Couture said...

I will certainly refer to your posts about this dress construction. There must be plenty of us having the pattern but I really did not dare to start it, the work on it seems to be huge, so thank you so much for the tutorial on this particular pattern. I love it.