Saturday, April 7, 2007

Testes com costuras – Testing seams

Aqui está o resultado dos meus testes:
Here are the tests' results:

1 – Costuras normais no tecido e no forro: Regular seams on the fabric and lining:

a)lado do direito: right side:
b) lado do avesso: wrong side:
Como podem observar o avesso fica bonito mas no lado direito (apesar da foto estar um pouco desfocada) consegue-se notar os valores de costura por baixo do tecido.
I hope you can see this; the wrong side is neat but on the right side you can see the SAs through the fabric. This is a slight see throw but I'm not pleased at all.

2 – Método de forrar e entre-forrar num só passo: All-in-one lining/underlining method:

a)lado do direito: right side:
b)lado do avesso: wrong side:
Aqui temos o direito sem marcas (o forro isola os valores de costura do tecido) e no avesso vê-se uma tira de tecido debruada com o forro, tudo isto sobre o forro. Sinceramente estou indecisa se quero ou não estas costuras no interior.
Here you can see that the right side is fine (no see through because the lining shields the SAs) but I'm not sure if I like the wrong side… That ivory stripe… It would be nicer if I was using silk organza though. I'm just not sure about this.

Agora a pergunta para o milhão de dólares: Este tipo de costuras funcionará numa costura redonda? É que as mangas raglan tem duas costuras, uma percorrendo o ombro até ao pulso e outra a começar debaixo do braço e a terminar no pulso. Esta costura tem de ser aberta a ferro, deverá ter uma linha suave e não deverá repuxar.
Now for the million dollars question: Will this seam method work on rounded seams? I'm not sure if you know this but these raglan sleeves are divided in two pieces, there is an extra seam from the base of the neck, through the shoulder and top of the arm, ending on the wrist. This seam must be pressed flat open and it should be smooth and with no puckers on the right side.

Teste final (costura arredondada): Final test (rounded seam):

a)Lado do direito: Right side:
b)Lado do avesso: Wrong side
Opiniões serão sempre bem-vindas!
Your opinion is always welcome!

11 comments:

Summerset said...

The underline/line method works great on straight seams, but like french seams and flat-felled seams, can be a bear on curves. It doesn't look too bad, but there is some wrinkling. The main question is, do *you* like the results - its your coat.

Because of the color differences, I prefer the regular lining method. Sometimes I do like the contrast of a different color stripe, but I'm not so sure on this one.

Tany said...

Summerset: I totally agree with you. I would use the regular lining method too if only the SAs weren't visible at the right side (see-through). Also I think I can make the rounded seams look better if I bound them after the seam is stitched. A friend also pointed out that I should mind the turn of the fabric (the lining should be a little smaller than the fabric) and I find this difficult to control with the all-in-one lining/underlining method. So I might just bound the seams after they are stitched. Thank you!

Valéria Braidotti said...

Oie...
Vim desejar Boa Páscoa e, especialmente, lembrar que:


"Deus, sendo rico em misericórdia, por causa do grande amor com que nos amou, e estando nós mortos em nossos delitos, nos deu vida juntamente com Cristo, – pela graça sois salvos, e, juntamente com ele, nos ressuscitou, e nos fez assentar nos lugares celestiais em Cristo Jesus" (Ef 2.4-6).

Com todo meu carinho pra você.

madhatter said...

i agree with summerset - i'd go for the "normal" seams. in the end... it's white fabric. you'll always have a slight shine-through with white fabrics.
i don't know if i'd like the curved seams with the second solution.

maybe you can do the straight seams in version two and only the rounded ones in version one?

Dawn said...

I've never done this type of treatment though it's on my mental list of things to try. But just as an observer of the pics you've posted, it looks like there is a 1/4" of lining folded over the SA. What if you cut the fashion fabric pieces with smaller SAs on the curved seams, then have the lining fold over them less. That would make for less rippling (though, honestly, the amount you've got there doesn't bother me much) in the curvy areas.

This is an interesting problem since it would also apply to princess seams over the bust.

Dawn said...

Something else I might consider is to use the lining like an underlining but leave the edges all raw. After sewing the seam, the SAs of the fashion fabric could be folded under and whipped down to the lining. Of course, you have to love hand-stitching like I do! (Unless you could stitch them down through all layers and it would be "topstitching" on the outside...it is a trench coat, right?

Can you tell I love problems like this?

Dawn said...

OK, this is it, I promise!

One thing I recently did when working on costumes in a time crunch....

We were making doublets that were completely underlined on top. the front opening facings had to be tacked down inside. So, rather than whip them down by hand I took the inside facing edge and a fold of the underlining right under it and "shook" it loose from the rest of the garment. Then I zigzagged down the edge of the facing, catching in a tiny fold of the underlining. Zigzagging so that only the "zig" caught both fabrics and the "zag" was "in the air." It worked nicely. I had to use a very loose tension though, and you can't get all the way up to the edges if you wait until the piece is "set in." But, you could use it for example for the sleeve seams if you did it before the sleeve was finished at neck and hem.

Have I had too much coffee?!

Tany said...

Dawn: LOL, I like a good challenge too, in fact I'm still thinking this through! I’m considering bounding the seams after they are stitched, instead of the all-in-one method (this will give me more control over the seams. I have this crazy idea: imagine using a single bias lining band to cover the SAs after they are pressed open; This band would fold over and under the SAs, then it would be stitched close to the center stitching line; this way no visible ivory stripe. I’ve never seen this done before so I don’t know if it works or not but I’ll run some tests. Now I’m going to make the pockets and the belt loops and stitch them to the front. It gives me more time to think about all this.

Madhatter: I really don’t like to see the SAs from the outside on the first test; pictures don’t show this but it’s quite evident if you look at the seams with direct light. There is also another factor to take into account, that’s the fabric being very thin (it has some body, though); I think this kind of fabric would benefit from an underlining because the two fabrics would be joined together on all seams, behaving as one layer alone. Believe me, I was inclined to the normal lining procedure until I saw the results.

Thanks to all for helping me on this!

Tini said...

Have you thought about doing french seams on both, the lining and the top fabric? this way you would minimise the s.a. and thus the see-thru. Didn't Els put up a tutorial on french seaming over at the sewing divas?

Greets from tini,
who's finally sewing again

Tany said...

That's a refreshing idea Tini, french seams or maybe flat fell seams on the right side. I could underline minding the turn of the fabric, them stitch the seams wrong sides together, trim one of the seams shorter, fold the other SA around it and edgestitch using matching threads (ivory thread on the needle and light brown thread on the bobin). I can't do this for the sleeves though, seams must be pressed open there. I think I'll bind them with lining bias tape after I press them open.

Mamã Martinho said...

Parece-me que ficou bem, mas acho que deves seguir o que diz as especialistas!

Bjs

Mónica