Costuras: mais testes – Seams: more tests

Os últimos testes não foram conclusivos quanto ao tipo de costuras a usar; o problema continuou a preocupar-me e mais algumas ideias surgiram, algumas inspiradas pelos comentários que recebi.
My last tests weren't satisfactory or conclusive. What is the best seam finish for this trench? This problem kept hitting me over and over again and, inspired by some of the comments on my last post, I came up with two more possibilities.

Antes de mais, preciso de fitas em viés de forro, para debruar costuras:
First of all, I need some lining bias stripes:

E agora vou mostrar-vos o resultado de mais dois testes:
Now, I will show you the results from two more tests:

Costura sobreposta (como as das calças de ganga), tratando o forro e o tecido como um só
Flat fell seam (just like jeans seams), dealing with the fabric/lining as one

Lado do direito: Right side:
Lado do avesso: Wrong side:
Não posso dizer que tenha ficado muito satisfeita com estas costuras. O facto de estar a lidar com duas camadas de tecido e não uma torna estas costuras volumosas e difíceis de acertar; além disso a costura resultante é pouco flexível, alterando o cair do tecido. É uma costura demasiado rígida para este tipo de peça de roupa.
I was not happy with this result either. The seam is too bulky; the fact that I'm dealing with two layers of fabric instead of one makes a big difference; besides, the resulting seam is too stiff, not flexible at all, and this doesn't go well with this fabric. Just scratch this option.

Costuras guarnecidas com uma só tira em viés (nem sei como lhes hei-de chamar pois nunca vi este tipo de costuras), o tecido e o forro também são cosidos juntos na costura, os valores de costura são abertos a ferro, aparados e depois uma tira de forro em viés é cosida aos valores de costura de forma a os tapar.
Seam covered with a single lining bias tape (I've never seen this done before so I don't know how to name this seam finish), both fabric and lining are treated as one; after the seam is stitched, the SAs are pressed open and trimmed and a lining bias stripe is sewn to the SAs on each side, covering them completely.

Lado do direito: Right side:
Lado do avesso: Wrong side:
Para já estou a gostar desta solução. A costura resultante é bastante flexível e não tem o inconveniente de se ver o tecido marfim do lado do avesso. Para perceberem como é feita esta costura, vejam a próxima foto:
For now I like this seam finish. It's a flexible seam, it looks nice and the ivory side doesn't show on the wrong side. Also there is no see-through on the right side. Here is another view of this seam so you can understand how it is done:
E agora, que nome é que vamos dar a este acabamento da costura?
And now, how shall we name this seam finish?


Els said…
Hi Tany, it looks like you have found the best way to deal with this seam finish. A name could be covered seam binding but that is not important. The finished result is what’s count.
red_swirl said…
Wow, what a clever seam!!! I really like the last one you tried ... and I want to use it myself ;)
Laura said…
If I understand your description correctly, that seam finish is most often known in English as a Hong Kong binding. Looks great!
LMH said…
Good choice--that's going to look great! (I think Laura's right, and that's a Hong Kong binding/finish, but I'd have to look it up to be sure.)
KayBee said…
Tany, I truly admire your patience regarding sewing preparations. You obviously found what you were looking for... 'cause I think this binding method is the best one.
Vicki said…
What patience/persistance you have! I think your last test is perfect. Taking time to think and test your options does really pay off. Thanks for sharing.
Tany said…
Thanks to all! I believe I can’t call this a hong-kong binding because on a hong-kong binding each SA would be bind separately (see, yet the procedure is very similar!

red_swirl, welcome to Couture et Tricot!
marita said…
have you thought what would happen to the seam after you have washed the garment?
Tany said…
Hi Marita! Yes I did, these seams will behave just like an ordinary seam, they are fairly easy to press and the bias lining tape won't ravel. I could wash this garment in the machine (I pre-washed the fabric and it washes perfectly) but the lining creases are more difficult to press after washing so I'll just dry clean it in the future.
Dawn said…
I really like the look of this. I didn't understand what you meant when you mentioned this before...I thought you were talking about a traditional Hong Kong type finish.

I love to sit in front of the TV with hand sewing so I would probably tack all these down. Although it seems that this method would tend to keep the sa's open, which is a definite advantage over the Hong Kong finish.

You've invented a sewing

bias banded?
double bias felled?
bias strapped seam?
bias flat strapped seam?

I'm going in the shower...sometimes things come to me in there. (better than contemplating the cellulite). I'll let you know if I think of anything else. BTW, you should send your method into "Threads" magazine.
marita said…
I was thinking about the pressing too, are you going to tack them somewhere, they won't stay flat while washing, how are you going to press them open?, am I missing something here?, tell me, I am a bit tired so bear with me:-).

I used almost the same method on DD's D&G linen/guipure dress, had to cover the sa's in skincolored lining fabric, but I tacked them to the guipure to keep it all as flat as possible after washing.
Tany said…
Marita: I don't think I'll need to tackle them at all. These seams keep their "flatness" more than regular hong-kong seams because the bias lining tape forces them down and flat nicely. I can wash my little swatch and then press it open again just to show you this. Of course you have to use bias stripes - they stretch - to make this. Besides the ends of the seam will be forced open (caught in the collar stitching or by a perpendicular seam). If you are worried about an impression when pressing you can use brown paper stripes to prevent this from happening. I guess I could tackle them by hand to the underlining if I had to. I will make this experiment: wash the swatch and see how it behaves and I will post the result as soon as possible :).
Summerset said…
I'm late to the party, but yes, I really like the last seam - the new idea you had! You'll have do a step by step on how to do that finish.

New question: Does it work for curved seams?
Tany said…
Summerset: I'm guessing it will work because I've read about a technique in the book Couture the art of fine sewing page 165: how to stabilize upper seam on a sleeve to hold the shape; an organza bias stripe is used in a similar way but not as a binding. There the seam is topstitched on each side. My method is similar and I might topstitch the rounded seams on the sleeves too. The bias lining stripe is flexible enough and if I reduce the SAs width, I think it will work just fine.
Mamã Martinho said…
Tb gostei da costura, sem duvida mais do que as outras. Quanto a nome, nem tenho ideia (acho que a Páscoa me deixou pouco inspirada)



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