Black linen sportive jacket with white top-stitching and satin accents


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EN Summary: Here's the last garment made during my "stay@home" vacations: a sportive linen jacket DP Studio Le300 pattern (version c; the jacket): jumpsuit with separates options. Enjoy the full article on tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com.
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PT Sumário: Aqui têm a última peça feita durante as mingas férias "stay@home": um blusão desportivo confecionado com o molde DP Studio Le300 (macacão com opções blusão e calça), versão c (blusão). Disfrutem do artigo completo em tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com.

EN: DP Studio's Le300 ("combinaison pantalon" in french) was firstly released as a jumpsuit pattern and later re-edited in collection 4 featuring two more options for separates (jacket and pants).
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PT: o molde DP Studio Le300 ("combinaison pantalon" em Francês), foi primeiramente lançado como um macacão e mais tarde re-editado na coleção 4 para incluir mais duas opções de peças em separado (as calças e o blusão).
EN: This utilitarian style jumpsuit has straight lines, dropped shoulders with long cuffed sleeves, open shirt collar, front button closure and a draw-string waistband. The bodice has two large asymmetric pockets with flaps and the pants have two patch pockets on the back and two more on the front. There is plenty of ease to move around so this garment will easily adapt to all morphologies.
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PT: Este macacão de estilo utilitário tem linhas direitas, ombros caídos e mangas compridas com punhos de camisa, gola camiseira aberta, fecha na frente com botões e uma cintura ajustável com fita ou cordão. A parte de cima tem dois bolsos grandes assimétricos com paletas e as calças têm dois bolsos de chapa atrás e mais dois na frente. É um modelo bastante amplo, pelo que se pode adaptar a todas as morfologias.
https://dpstudio-fashion.com/

EN: Version b (pants) and c (jacket) are shown above, with elasticized waistbands instead of draw-strings.
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PT: A versão b (calças) e c (blusão) são mostradas na foto acima, com as cinturas com elástico em vez do cordão/fita.
https://dpstudio-fashion.com/

EN: My take on view c is made of linen and has the waistband with casing because I wanted to play with different fabric textures and the satin ribbon matches the upper collar and pocket flaps, which are cut from black satin. I also included white buttons and top-stitching.
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PT: A minha interpretação da opção c foi confecionada em linho e tem a cintura com fita porque quis jogar um pouco com texturas diferentes e a fita de cetim condiz com a parte superior da gola e paletas dos bolsos, confecionados de cetim negro. Também incluí botões e pespontos em branco.
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EN: Here's a close-up o the open-shirt collar:
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PT: Aqui têm um plano aproximado da gola camiseira aberta:
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EN: Here are the flap pockets, which are asymmetric with a box pleat and a small dart on the side-most bottom corner to add volume:
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PT: Aqui têm os bolsos com paleta, que são assimétricos, têm uma prega-macho e uma pequena pinça no canto inferior mais próximo da costura lateral, para dar um pouco de volume ao bolso:
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EN: Here's the waistband with satin ribbon casing:
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PT Aqui têm o cós com um canal para a fita de cetim:
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EN: I used white top-stitching thread (the kind used to sew jeans) on the needle and regular black thread on the bobbin, except for top-stitching the front edges where I also used white top-stitching thread on the bobbin since both sides are visible. I set a 3.5 stitch length and used a size 90(14) needle.
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PT: Para os pespontos usei linha de pesponto branca (do tipo usado para fazer pespontos em ganga) na agulha e linha normal preta na canela, excepto na orla da frente onde usei linha de pespontar branca também na canela pois ambos os lados da costura são visíveis. Usei um comprimento de ponto de 3.5 e uma agulha tamanho 90 (14).
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EN: Here's the drop-shoulders:
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PT: Os ombros caídos:
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EN: The sleeve cuffs with bound cuff-slit:
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PT: Os punhos camiseiro com abertura debruada:
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EN: The jacket isn't lined and I kept it that way because I wanted to wear it in summer. The front facing was first edged with the serger/overlocker and then the edge was turned in and top-stitched:
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PT: O blusão não é forrada e mantive-o assim, pois é uma peça para usar de verão. A guarnição/vista da frente foi rematada com a corta-e-cose e a orla depois foi virada para dentro e pespontada:
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EN: I liked the end result very much (the only alteration I would make in a future version is shortening the sleeves a little bit, although I suspect they are intended to be long as a design feature of this wide-fitting model). I am probably making the jumpsuit version sometime soon, in mustard yellow linen with brown top-stitching maybe, let's see... I have so many plans!

So, my "staycation" is over so things may get a little slower on the sewing front. I will remain at home but working on my full time job, so sewing activities will be postponed to the weekends while trying to keep the blogs updated in the evenings. Thank you all for the lovely comments on my last post and Happy Sewing, see you guys next time!
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PT: Gostei bastante do resultado final (a única alteração que faria de futuro era encurtar um pouco as mangas, no entanto creio que é pretendido que sejam assim longas dentro do estilo largo e casual do modelo). Provavelmente irei confecionar a versão macacão em breve, quem sabe,... Talvez em linho amarelo-mostarda com pespontos em castanho,... Tenho tantos planos!

As minhas férias "stay@home" acabaram, por isso é natural que as coisas abrancem um pouco no campo da costura; mantemo-nos em casa, mas agora a trabalhar a tempo inteiro, por isso só terei os fins-de-semana para costurar e as noites para ir tentando por os blogues em dia. Agradeço os vossos comentários no meu artigo anterior e desejo-vos ótimas realizações em costura! Até à próxima!
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7 comments:

Linda said...

Hello from Belgium, this jacket is beautiful. :) Personally I like the length of the sleeves, it suits the design. Great work! Greetings, Linda

Lori said...

Amazing jacket and all your details are so perfect. Thanks for always sharing your beautiful work and exceptional details

Colo Heather said...

Thanks for the details and inspiration! Good luck back at work- sure cuts into sewing time in my case anyway!😊

Vicki M said...

Beautiful. Such lovely details and I like the combination of fabrics.

Joyce Latham said...

It looks great! Thanks again for sharing all the details with such beautiful photographs. Paired with your red halter top will be very handy. Enjoy the rest if your summer even if your back to work.
Joyce from Canada 🇨🇦

mem said...

Hello Tany , did you do the buttonholes with the top stitching thread as well? I was wondering with your ribbon tie , did you just stitch the two edges one on top of the other or is it a single layer . It a very cool jacket and I think would look fantastic with a narrow skirt and camisole r narrow pants would work too. I like its boxy shape very much .

Tany said...

Thank you all for the lovely comments!

mem: Thank you! I did use the stronger thread (it's jeans top-stitching thread and not buttonhole twist) on the needle and regular thread on the bobbin to sew the buttonholes; I find that using regular thread on the bobbin produces the best results both on buttonholes and top-stitching. Regarding the ribbon tie I'm not sure I understand your question,... The tie is a unique piece of satin ribbon (purchased years ago, not cut from satin fabric), and the waistband of the jacket works as a casing, having two large buttonholes on the front face side so the ribbon tie can be inserted in the casing. Hope this answers to your question! :*