PT Sumário: Umas calças de perna larga e cintura alta vermelhas são um essencial em qualquer guarda-roupa, certo? Pois já confecionei as minhas a partir do molde "calças Marlene", incluído no livro edição especial da BurdaStyle Portugal "Essenciais do seu Guarda-roupa"! Continuem a ler o artigo completo!
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EN Summary: Red high waist & wide leg pants are a truly wardrobe essential, don'y you guys agree? Well, I have sewn mine from a pattern included in the Portuguese edition of BurdaStyle's "Wardrobe essentials" book. Keep reading the full article to find out more!
PT: Retirei o molde do livro "Essenciais do seu Guarda-Roupa", do qual já tinha feito uma resenha (clicar aqui). A edição Portuguesa deste livro contém uma seleção verdadeiramente excelente de moldes, com explicações detalhadas de como os confecionar. Infelizmente já não vejo o livro disponível do sítio da BurdaStyle Portugal, mas poderão tentar o seu serviço de clientes para o tentarem encontrar. Adicionalmente posso também referir que o mesmo molde foi publicado na revista BurdaStyle de Fevereiro de 2013, é o modelo 130.
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EN: I traced the Marlene pants pattern from the Portuguese edition of the BurdaStyle's special "Wardrobe Essentials" book, which I have reviewed back in 2015 (click here). Keep in mind that the English edition of the same book contains a different selection of patterns, though. Fortunately, the same pattern was also featured in the February 2013 edition of BurdaStyle magazine (model 130), so you can also find it there.
PT: Este modelo de calças é caracterizado por ter cintura alta com cós aplicado, bolsos no encaixe da anca, fecho invisível na lateral, pregas na frente (pinças atrás) e perna larga bem comprida; cortei o tamanho 40, ajustando a cintura para o tamanho 38 e encurtei a bainha uns 2cm.
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EN: This pattern features a high waist with applied waistband, side hip pockets, invisible zipper on the side seam, front pleats (darts on the back) and long wide legs; I cut size 40, tapering the waist into size 38. I also shortened the hemline by 3/4".
PT: Uma particularidade deste molde é que as pregas são armadas aon contrário (na direção da frente em vez de para os lados. Gostei bastante do efeito final:
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EN: The peculiarity of this pattern is having the pleats formed towards the center instead of towards the sides, which is more common. I really loved the final effect of the pleats this way:
PT: Podem ver como ficam as calças de lado:
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EN: Here's the side view of the pants:
PT: O fecho invisível é aplicado na costura lateral esquerda, depois de confecionar o bolso e de coser o cós à cintura (mas antes de dobrar o cós para dentro e fazer o seu acabamento interior):
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EN: The invisible zipper is applied to the left side seam after the pockets are sewn and after sewing the waistband to the pants (before turning the waistband to the inside and finishing it along the waistline):
PT: Usei fita de viés pré-dobrada para fazer os acabamentos interiores do cós, sacos do bolso e terminação do fecho invisível:
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EN: I used pre-folded bias tape to do the inside finishing of the waistband, invisible zipper end and pocket bags
PT: Aqui têm as calças vistas de trás:
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EN: Here are the pants seen from he back:
CONCLUSÃO: Gostei bastante do molde, um modelo clássico com um "twist" nas pregas, e as calças assentam-me bastante bem (ainda não tenho fotos de mim a usá-las, mas entretanto publiquei uma colagem de como as usei no Tany et La Mode aqui). É o género de calças que me favorecem mais, por isso é provável que não seja a última vez que uso este molde. Obrigada a todos por aparecerem e pelos simpáticos comentários!
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CONCLUSION: I love this pattern, it's a classic model with a twist on the pleats; the pants fit me impeccably (no photos of me wearing them yet, but I did publish an outfit collage of how I wore them the first time - click here). It's the type of trousers that really work for my everyday life so you'll probably see more of them in the future. Thank you all for visiting and for the lovely comments!
7 comments:
I enjoy reading about all your impeccable, beautiful makes, it inspires me to try harder & notch up the techniques I use! I have decided to change my focus a little for the for foreseeable future & attempt to construct items with more couture like finishing, as well as delving into more complicated designs. I will be reproducing a 1935 wedding dress next year, just to take on a really different project, not for any particular person, & I know I'll refer to some of your tutorials! Thank you for your wonderful blog!!
My English ist not good, but I think your blog and your tutorial is wonderful. Many thanks tay and regards from Germany
Tany what fabric did you use? Is it wool crepe?
Lisette: it's a woolen/polyester blend. I don't know the exact composition because here they don't usually include the label with the composition when we buy the fabric...
Rosalind: thank you so much for your lovely comment! It's wonderful that you're taking your sewing capabilities to the next level! It comes a time when that's the only way to evolve! I wish you all the best 😘😘😘!
Dear Anonymous, thank you so much for your lovely words! They warm my heart! ❤️❤️❤️
These are gorgeous, Tany and the red is so you! I took a class years ago that taught us that pleats turned toward center front lessened visual hip width. Pleats turned toward the side seams flattened the tummy and the instructor said it was our choice how we wanted them to go! That always stuck with me. Beautiful execution as always.
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