EN Summary: Presenting a RTW construction approach to this exquisite couture design by the late Paco Peralta for Vogue patterns. Disable ad-blocker and reload if blog content is missing when you click to see full article.
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PT Sumário: Apresento-vos uma abordagem de confeção pronto-a-vestir deste magnífico conjunto alta-costura da Vogue Patterns, criado pelo falecido Paco Peralta. Desativem o ad-blocker e recarreguem a página se o conteúdo integral do artigo não aparecer.
EN: In one of my last conversations with Paco, he had mentioned being sad because he hadn't seen this pattern made up yet; I was planning to make it but since the pattern took much longer to arrive than anticipated, my plans were delayed. I told him that what happened to me may have happened to others: there were some software system problems at McCalls and many orders must have been delayed. I also told him that, in spite of the incredible beauty of the design, the couture construction methods may have also intimidated many people; we both had noticed a general drive in the sewing community into more simple and fast sewing projects lately, perhaps because there's a higher percentage of beginners. With a sad expression he replied "Si, tu lo vas a coser, al menos tú lo harás" (Yes, you will sew it up, at least you will).
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PT: Numa das minhas últimas conversas com o Paco, ele contou-me que estava trista por ainda não ter visto este molde feito por ninguém na comunidade online de costura. Eu tinha planeado fazê-lo logo quando foi lançado, mas por problemas informáticos na Vogue Patterns, os envios foram muito atrasados e só recebi o molde muito mais tarde, o que me fez adiar os planos. Disse ao Paco que o que aconteceu comigo pode bem ter acontecido a outros; também lhe disse que o facto do molde ter uma abordagem de confeção alta-costura, pode bem ter intimidado muitas pessoas, pois ambos vínhamos a notar que ultimamente a generalidade das pessoas que costuram, havendo uma grande percentagem de iniciantes, optam por modelos mais fáceis e rápidos de confecionar. Com uma expressão triste ele respondeu-me "Si, tu lo vas a coser, al menos tú lo harás".
EN: (image credits for V1602: voguepatterns.mccall.com). The pattern description on the envelope reads: "Fitted top is lined and underlined with invisible back zipper. Semi-fitted skirt is lined and underlined and has raised waist, invisible back zipper and back slit". For the top I would add high V-neckline and princess seams with 3/4 kimono sleeves with side gusset. The zipper is placed from the bottom hem up, ending near the back neckline edge. The skirt has knife-shaped side panels and princess seams on the back. Due to the clever placement of the side panels and gussets, I believe this design would be great for color-blocking too.
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PT: (créditos de imagem do molde V1602: voguepatterns.mccall.com). A descrição do molde no envelope é: "Top justo tem forro e entre-forro, além de um fecho invisível nas costas. Saia semi-ajustada tem entre-forro e é forrada, tem cintura alta, fecho invisível e racha atrás". Para o top acrescentaria que tem um decote em V subido e recortes princesa, com mangas a 3/4 e nesgas na manga e laterais. O fecho invisível está aplicado fechando para baixo, com inicio perrto da orla do decote e terminando na bainha do top. A saia tem paineis laterais em forma de faca e recortes princesa atrás. Devido à posição estratégica dos painéis laterais e nesgas, acredito que este modelo seria ideal para "color blocking" (usar tecidos de cores diferentes como complemento).
EN: I decided to use a RTW approach instead of the couture methods suggested in the instructions for a couple of reasons: firstly, this particular fabric has some stretch in it and I wanted to take advantage of it and not worry so much about the sizing, since my weight has been fluctuating a lot lately. I knew that if I would use a medium weight woven fabric without stretch, plus silk organza underlining and sew-in canvas, the fit would be too tight with size 14 (on good thing about these patterns is the included finished garment measurements at bust, waist and hip lines). Secondly, I wouldn't get much wear of a couture garments with my current lifestyle, and lastly, I wanted to show people that this ensemble can be well made and beautiful without using the couture construction techniques; the finished garment will be less structured, will not last a lifetime but the end result will still be of superior quality if you put your efforts into it.
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PT: Decidi usar uma abordagem de confeção mais pronto-a-vestir, em comparação com os métodos de alta-costura sugeridos nas instruções, por algumas razões: em primeiro lugar este tecido que escolhi é um pouco elástico e quis tirar proveito dessa elasticidade e não me preocupar muito em ajustar o tamanho às minhas medidas, que ultimamente têm flutuado um pouco. Se tivesse usado um tecido de peso médio sem elasticidade, com entre-forro de organza e entretela de crina, sei que o tamanho 14 iria de certeza ficar demasiado justo com as minhas medidas atuais (uma coisa boa nestes moldes é que trazem indicação das medidas do modelo terminado em torno do busto, cintura e quadril, o que permite ter uma ideia da folga na peça pronta). Em segundo lugar, com o meu estilo de vida atual (casa - trabalho, essencialmente) não ia tirar partido de um conjunto alta-costura; e por último, queria também demonstrar à spessoas que este molde pode ser utilizado com técnicas mais acessíveis e ainda assim produzir peças bonitas e bem feitas. A diferença é que as peças serão menos estruturadas e não terão a durabilidade da alta-costura, mas ainda assim valem a pena ser feitas, com resultados muito positivos.
EN: So what are the main differences between my version and a couture version? The couture version calls for a more noble woven fabric, like tweed, boucle or brocade; all the pieces would be additionally underlined with silk organza, which provides a light structure, adds durability and keeps the shape of the garment through time. Sew-in canvas would have been used for the facings. After pressing the seams open, they would be hand-tacked to the underlining. Weights would have been used on the hems of the top and the skirt (back vent ends and side seams) to improve the hang of the garments when worn. Bias cut lining strips would have been used to edge finish the seam allowances on the sleeves and sleeve hems (only the body of the top is lined, the sleeves are unlined).
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PT: Então quais são as principais diferenças da abordagem pronto-a-vestir para a versão alta-costura? A versão alta-costura pede tecidos nobres sem elasticidade, como tweed, bouclé ou brocado; todas as peças levariam um entre-forro de organza de seda, o que dá à peça uma estrutura leve, mais durabilidade e a garantia de manter a sua forma com o uso. Entretela de alfaiate de coser à mão seria a indicada para reforçar as vistas. Depois de assentar as costuras abertas com o ferro, as margens seriam fixadas com pontos à mão ao entre-forro (organza). Pequenos pesos de chumbo seriam aplicados por dentro das bainhas na saia (pontas da racha e costuras laterais) e no top, para melhorar o cair das peças. As margens de costura e bainhas das mangas (que não levam forro) seriam rematadas com tiras de forro cortadas em viés.
EN: The RTW version can take stretch fabrics and any type of stable knits like the popular Ponte Roma (just pick a fabric or knit with some body and that keeps its shape). It doesn't require underlining, the weights are optional and it is OK to use the overlocker to edge finish exposed seams and hem allowances. For reinforcing the facings, fusible knits or weft insertion fusibles can be used. The garments would still be lined for comfort, durability and better hang while worn (if stretch fabrics are used, stretch linings should be used also).
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PT: A versão pronto-a-vestir pode ser confecionada de tecidos com elasticidade ou até de malhas estáveis, desde que tenham corpo e mantenham a sua forma com o uso, como a malha Roma, malha neopreno, etc. Não precisa de entre-forro, os pesos são opcionais e pode-se usar a corta-e-cose para rematar as margens e bainhas não cobertas com o forro. Nas vistas podemos aplicar entretelas de colar a ferro de malha ou de malha com trama reforçada. As peças devem ainda assim ser forradas para melhor conforto, durabilidade e bom caimento (se o tecido for elástico, o forro deve ser elástico também).
EN: The photo above shows the underarm gusset which extends into a side panel; next photo shows the top's back invisible zipper open, exposing the lining and the sewing labels on the inside:
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PT: A foto em cima mostra a nesga debaixo da manga do top que depois se estende num painel lateral; na foto seguinte podem ver o fecho invisivel nas costas do top completamente aberto, mostrando o forro e as etiquetas de costura no interior do mesmo:
EN: This is how it looks with the zipper closed all the way down; it is important to achieve a perfect finish on invisible zippers; this is the kind of detail which differentiates good quality hand-made garments:
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PT: É assim que fica com o fecho invisível todo apertado; é importante que o acabamento nos extremos fique perfeito, pois são detalhes como este que diferenciam as peças bem confecionadas:
EN: On the inside of the top we can observe the partial lining, which excludes the sleeves; the armholes of the lining are bias bound, as they would have been in the couture version:
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PT: No avesso do top podemos observar o forro parcial (as mangas não são forradas), onde as cavas do forro são rematadas com viés, tal como seria executado na versão alta-costura:
EN: Here are the neckline facings, which were fused and under-stitched; the lining was machine-stitched to the facings and hem of the top, then hand-sewn to the zipper tapes.
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PT: Podem ver as vistas do decote, que foram reforçadas com entretela de aplicar a ferro e cosidas ao decote, levando um pesponto de girar. O forro foi cosido à máquina às vistas e à bainha do top, e cosido à mão às fitas do fecho invisível.
EN: The skirt is very elegant; here's the detail view of the knife-shaped side panels:
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PT: A saia é muito elegante; podem ver na foto seguinte os paineis laterais em forma de "faca":
EN: The back invisible zipper:
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PT: O fecho invisível atrás:
EN: Here's the back vent. The skirt lining was bagged entirely and then turned to the right side through the zipper opening, before stitching the lining to the zipper tapes by hand. This method is very well explained and illustrated in Paco's tutorial for his BCN-Unique Apron skirt (here). You can also read about this method in my sewing review (here).
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PT: A seguir têm a racha atrás. O forro foi aplicado à maneira industrial, cosido à máquina às vistas e bainha e girado pela abertura do fecho antes de coser o forro à mão às fitas do fecho. Este método está muito bem explicado no passo-apasso do Paco para a saia APRON (aqui); podem também ler o meu artigo sobre a confeção da saia APRON aqui.
CONCLUSION: I think the ensemble turned really well and I promise to show photos of me wearing it as soon as I can (I haven't been much in the mood of taking photos and I've been neglecting my personal style blog Tany et La Mode but I plan on catching up soon, as soon as the good weather returns). If you are an adept or even curious about couture construction methods I highly recommend this pattern and its instructions; if you are ready to dive in into couture sewing, I would also highly recommend Susan Khalje Couture Sewing Club on Facebook, where you'll find a wealth of information on Couture sewing techniques including Susan's many video tutorials and a friendly helping environment where you'll find support and inspiration. I have joined recently, and I plan on writing a review of the group very soon! Thank you all for showing up!
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CONCLUSÃO: Acho que o conjunto ficou muito bem e prometo mostrar fotos minhas a usá-lo em breve (não tenho tido grande vontade/tempo para tirar fotos ultimamente e o meu blogue de estilo pessoal Tany et La Mode tem estado ao abandono, o que espero mudar em breve). Se forem adeptos ou mesmo só curiosos em relação à alta-costura, recomendo este molde pelas instruções, vão aprender muito; se quiserem entrar nesse mundo mesmo à séria, então a minha sugestão é aderirem ao grupo do Facebook Susan Khalje Sewing Club, onde vão encontrar imensa informação/dicas sobre técnicas de alta-costura, incluindo muitos passo-a-passo em video da Susan, e um ambiente de entre-ajuda e apoio entre os seus membros, além de muita inspiração. Aderi há pouco tempo e em breve escreverei um pouco sobre o grupo para vos dar a conhecer o que por lá se faz! Obrigada por aparecerem!
14 comments:
this outfit is gorgeous and the color will be fantastic on you. I think you are right that with an influx of new sewers ( a good thing!) there are fewer % of people who want to make more complex items. I'm so happy that you keep sewing and showing things you make. I only made one Paco pattern which is the Vogue short sleeve jacket which I made in red wool, and it is one of the best items I own, the details are so clever.
Beautiful and such a unique yet very classic pattern. It is so nice to see the beautiful garments you make.
As always your reviews are wonderful & your sewing impeccable! I know you had a close relationship with Paco & you have certainly honoured his memory by making this ensemble. I will definitely get the pattern, especially for the top. I think the skirt could be an issue because I am short & I think with the angled side panels, shortening it would be a problem. Thanks again for always insightful details!
So gorgeous Tany!
This outfit has so many beautiful details. I too regret that many tsewists tend to turn towards instantly gratifying projects.
Beautiful design and construction, as beautiful inside as outside.
Beautiful outfit, this fabric and the colour are just so perfect. Thank you for all the details, I'll certainly buy this pattern as it seems to be such classic pieces. Julie
This is gorgeous, Tany, and such a lovely tribute to Paco's skill. Thank you for such detailed pics and explanations as well. I've been dealing with a lining challenge this week and your method with it's bound armholes might be just the ticket. Thank you for the inspiration. Take care and we'll be here when you are back into modeling mode.
I just wanted to add that a large sewing group that I belong to on FB had many members commenting this week on seeking patterns with more challenging details as they are tired of the simple designs most indie designers are putting out. The comments were very heartwarming. There will always be those in any group who want to know more, do more, and get better at what they love. It is happening.
This outfit is lovely. I have this pattern so I was interested in your comments and ways to make it a little less couture. Your rendition shows how to make this possible...many thanks. Karen
Beautiful top and skirt. I have many of Paco's patterns, purchased more for the couture sewing instructions rather than the styles, as they are a bit too formal for my lifestyle. These pieces however, could possibly be made up individually as separates.
Thank you, I'm so happy to see this made up. I bought that pattern the minute it came out, but hadn't had a chance to sew it up. I had no idea he was so ill.
Gorgeous outfit! Beautiful details and as usual your garments are an inspiration for me. I just received this pattern and it took so long to arrive that I almost forgot about the order.
Teresa, Your suit is beautiful. Paco would be proud. This is on my list to make. When the pattern published, I bought my copy as soon as it was available. I like the idea of making this more RTW as appose to couture. But I was thinking of trying the couture method. You are right about the sewing community. There are a lot of fast sewing. For me personally, I need something challenging every now and then. Kudos to you on this lovely suits.
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