EN Summary: I couldn’t resist to Léa in yellow/grey stripes so I ordered the So Chic Box Kit Couture for this version. In this article you’ll see the details of the finished garment. Keep reading!
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PT Sumário: Não consegui resistir à versão riscas em amarelo/cinza da blusa Léa, por isso encomendei o So Chic Box Kit Couture desta versão também. Neste artigo mostro os detalhes da blusa terminada. Continuem a ler o artigo completo!
original model (photo courtesy https://dpstudio-fashion.com)
EN: Click here to read the review of my first Léa (made with silk with golden threads). These sewing kits are a collaboration between DP Studio and Hamon and are sold exclusively by latter, at their physical store in Paris and online (worldwide delivery).
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PT: Cliquem aqui para lerem o artigo dobre a minha primeira versão da blusa Léa (a de seda com fios dourados). Estes kits de costura resultam de uma colaboração entre a DP Studio e a Hamon e são vendidos exclusivamente pela Hamon, na sua loja física em Paris ou online (entrega para todo o mundo).
EN: The fabric in this kit is a 100% rayon (viscose), with a certain body, very easy to work with and with beautiful draping qualities. Curiously the label in the box says 100% silk but I trust the information in DPStudio website, which indicates viscose, is the correct one (I could have done the burn test though...).
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PT: O tecido incluído no kit é 100% viscose, com um certo corpo e bom cair, muito fácil de trabalhar. Curiosamente a etiqueta que vem no kit diz 100% seda, mas creio que a informação no sítio DP Studio que indica viscose é a que está correta (poderia ter confirmado queimando um pouco de tecido...).
EN: I didn't even tried to match the stripes along the front slanted seam, because it wouldn't be possible due to the different slants on both pieces (one is flared and the other is not). I also think the mismatched stripes accentuate the asymmetric feature of the blouse.
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PT: Nem sequer tentei casar as riscas na costura divisória da frente, porque seria impossível, devido ao facto da costura ter inclinações diferentes em cada peça da frente (uma das peças tem roda acrescida, e a outra não). Também acho que as riscas descasadas acentuam a assimetria deste modelo.
EN: Here's the front opening facing detail with the tie collar:
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PT: Aqui têm o detalhe da vista da abertura da frente e da gola de atar:
EN: The tie ends are slanted:
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PT: As tiras de atar terminam em ângulo:
EN: What I did take extra care with was the symmetry of the sleeves and the cuffs. I cut right and left sleeves as perfect symmetric pieces, using a single layer layout and the first cut sleeve flipped with its right side down on top of the fabric right side to cut the second sleeve with perfect symmetrical stripe alignment. The cuffs are also cut exactly the same.
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PT: Tive cuidado extra sim, para cortar as mangas em perfeita simetria com as riscas, cortando primeiro uma e usando-a como template com o direito para baixo sobre o direito do tecido, alinhando as riscas perfeitamente para cortar a segunda manga. Os punhos também foram cortados absolutamente iguais.
EN: The only "setback" (if I can even call it that) was not being able to cut the tie in one single piece while maintaining the stripes along the length of the tie (in this case I added a center back seam to solve the problem). This happened because of the fabric has the stripes across the grain and not on the lengthwise grain; to keep the stripe direction shown in the sample, I had to cut all pieces on the crosswise grain, which wasn't large enough to cut the tie in one single piece. The blouse did turn out exactly as the sample and I am quite happy with it.
Thank you all for your lovely comments and support, I really appreciate it!
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PT: O único "inconveniente" (se é que lhe posso chamar isso) foi não ser possível cortar a gola de atar numa só peça com as riscas no sentido do comprimento (facilmente resolvido com a adição de uma costura no meio das costas da gola de atar). Isto acontece porque este tecido em particular tem as riscas atravessadas e não no sentido do comprimento, e a sua largura não é suficiente para cortar a gola de atar numa só peça, com as riscas no sentido do comprimento. Fora isso, a blusa realmente ficou igual ao modelo original e estou extremamente satisfeita com ela.
Obrigada a todos pelos simpáticos comentários e o apoio que me têm dado, é reamente muito importante para mim!
7 comments:
I SO enjoy all of your wonderful posts, & LOVE seeing your impeccable details! I have learned a lot from your tutorials & continue to check them. I noticed the symmetry of the sleeves right away, it really makes a difference when we take care to attend to important details like that. I am waiting on fabric from the UK & know I'll have to cut my sleeves in the same manner. LOVE your blouse!!
Such a lovely blouse! What a great style!
Julie
Beautiful. A most unusual design and it works so well with the stripes. Love seeing everything you make.
Another gorgeous piece from DP. Really good PR for them; I've loved everything you've made from the kits.
Beautiful work as usual for you. The buttonhole shown looks fantastic. Any recommendations for a machine that can produce a buttonhole as beautiful as what is show would be appreciated. My current machine does not do the job!
Thank you all for the lovely comments!
Pamela H.: I own a Pfaff Ambition Essential and I use it to embroider my buttonholes, I think it does a really good job. My tips for any machine are slightly loosen the needle thread tension and use Fraycheck before cutting the buttonholes open. I also like to use a chisel to cut the buttonholes open instead of the seam tipper. Hope it helps!
Sorry, I meant seam ripper :)
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