Monday, March 2, 2009

Casaco Dior: detalhes finais - Dior coat: the final details

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Modelo Original (Molde Vogue vintage 2111, casaco e vestido do designer Christian Dior):

Já sei que já tinham visto esta foto e que estão à espera de uma foto minha a usar o casaco, mas tal como fiz com a colecção Extravagância Cor-de-Laranja, quando terminar o conjunto Baunilha e Chocolate tenciono publicar fotos minhas a usar todas as peças deste conjunto. Para já vou então mostrar os detalhes finais do casaco Dior, começando pelas instruções de confecção do forro:



O forro é cosido sem aplicar as mangas e aplicado no interior do casaco inteiramente à mão; as mangas em forro são aplicadas depois, e cosidas à mão à cava e ao punho:

Para coser as mangas de forro usei linha dupla na agulha, para a costura ficar mais resistente:

O tecido de forro que usei (crepe de cetim) resultou muito bem no casaco. Acrescentei alguns detalhes, como os bordados à máquina e a presilha de pendurar:


Além da minha etiqueta, apliquei a etiqueta original que vinha com estes moldes (quem comprava moldes de designer podia levantar no balcão da loja uma etiqueta destas):

Na foto seguinte vêem-se os botões e as molas forradas, e também dá para notar os pespontos decorativos feitos com linha torçal:


Visto de lado e de costas:


Artigos anteriores sobre a confecção deste casaco:

Introdução ao modelo

Confecção 1

Confecção 2

Confecção 3

Conclusão: Fiquei deliciada com a minha primeira experiência com moldes vintage e sei que não vou ficar por aqui. O molde do casaco está muito bem desenhado e as instruções são bastante detalhadas; que faz os moldes contemporâneos teria algumas lições a tirar destes moldes. As mangas do casaco têm um corte diferente, com a cabeça da manga bastante arredondada e o comprimento ligeiramente mais curto que o normal, como se usava na altura. Tentei ser o mais fiel possível ao molde original e o resultado foi excelente. Também queria fazer o vestido a condizer (até já comprei uma argola dourada para aplicar no cinto), mas para já queria terminar a colecção Baunilha e chocolate; o vestido ficará para o próximo Outono.

O meu tempo para costurar (e para o blog!) durante a semana tem sido praticamente inexistente; durante o fim-de-semana consegui aproveitar o tempo livre e já estou a meio da jaqueta do conjunto Badgley Mischka (Vogue1066) que também faz parte da colecção Baunilha e Chocolate. Entretanto não consegui ter tempo para visitar os blogs e responder às vossas mensagens, mas prometo fazê-lo tão cedo quanto possível! Até breve!


Original model (Vintage Vogue2111 by Christian Dior):

I know, you’ve already seen this photo and you were expecting a picture of me with the coat on, but as I did before for the Orange Extravaganza set, pictures of all the Vanilla&Chocolate elements worn together will be published when the collection is completed. For now I’m sharing the final details of the Dior coat, starting by the lining instructions:



The lining is assembled without the lining sleeves and applied to the coat entirely by hand; the lining sleeves are then sewn by hand to the cuff and the armhole:

I used a double strand of thread to make this seam sturdier (the armhole is subject to extra stress):

I am very pleased with the satin crepe as lining; I added a few details, like the machine embroidery on the lining back fold and the hanging loop:


Besides my personal label I added the original Vogue Paris Original label that came with these vintage patterns:

In the next pictures you can see the buttons and the lined pressure snaps inside; if you look carefully, you can also see the decorative topstitching made with ivory buttonhole twist:


Side and back views:


Previous articles on the making of this coat:

Introduction

The making of the Dior Coat (Part 1)

The making of the Dior Coat (Part 2)

The making of the Dior Coat (Part 3)

Conclusion: I’m thrilled with my first experience sewing a vintage pattern and I’m officially addicted now! The pattern is extremely well drafted and the instructions are detailed and thorough; I believe the people who make the contemporary Vogue patterns would learn valuable lessons from these old vintage patterns. The coat sleeves are drafted a little differently than what I’m used to: the sleeve caps are quite round and the sleeve is slightly shorter; I believe this is a common feature of the 60s patterns and I wanted to keep this coat as close to the original as possible, so what you see is straight out of the envelope, no tweaking of so ever on the sleeves. In my opinion the results are excellent. I also intend to make the dress, but not for now; I even bought the golden ring for the waist belt. I plan on making the dress for wearing next fall.

My available time for sewing (and blogging) has been inexistent during the week and I tried making the most of my weekend sewing wise (I’m half way done with the Badgley Mischka’s jacket: V1066, also part of the Vanilla&Chocolate set), so there was no time left for catching up on everybody’s blogs, emails, etc… I apologize for that and I promise to catch up on you guys as soon as I can. See you all soon!

41 comments:

senaSews said...

Tany, this coat is amazing. It looks so exclusive and well done. AWESOME!

Lisette M said...

Just gorgeous!

Lori said...

Tany, gorgeous coat and all your details are wonderful.

Katrin said...

Dear Tany,
this is absolutely stunning! What a beautiful coat. I would steel it right away if I could :).
And: I somehow missed your final post about the orange extravaganza..now that I found it I am speechless!
Best wishes,
Katrin

CRUZ BARRIENTOS said...

The coat is a master piece. Just gorgeous! I agree with you about Vintage patterns, I find them to be draft better than the newer patterns. The sizes are accurate and the instruction supper. I can’t wait to see your next Vintage pattern project.
Warm regards
Cruz

Sigrid said...

Perfection! Wonderful result Tany. Looking forward to the photoshoot.

Bunny said...

Exquisite coat!

Amanda S. said...

Gorgeous coat, Tany. Your attention to detail is so inspiring.

Rachel said...

That is just PERFECTION!!! You just amaze me with the detail you put into your work.

Lindsay T said...

Couture perfection, Tany! I just love everything about it, down to the Vogue label. Well done!

Vicki W said...

How beautiful! You always consider every tiny detail.

Dana said...

Just beautiful!

Erica B. said...

Tany, the coat is beautiful! I love all of your details as usual!

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

What a skill full seamstress you are ! This jacket is a gem ! Seriously it is. I think that you should really sew the dress. It would be very stylish on you. I think that you have the shape for it. You could put up your hair in a very 1960 "bun" in the back... with black highliner, oh la la people will stop you on the street. You would then owe to be on http://www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com/

I love to read you blog, all the details and pictures you put in conjunction with th quality of your work encourage me to sew more and with more attention to details. I am very much looking forward to see the final product on you with the rest of the outfit.

Sheers from Montreal... where it is -10 today

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

I forgot, I think that we should start a petition online to encourage Vogue to reprint those Couturiers pattern and to have new patterns with that quality of confection. I find that the Couturier pattern they sell now, do not have the panache they use to.

LolaMoon said...

Tany, I am in awe! Your work is always so exquisite.

Mamã Martinho said...

O casaco ficou lindo e deve assentar-te muito bem. O forro foi bem escolhido e a etiqueta extra dá um ar muito "elegante". Fico à espera de ver o resultado final.

Bjs

Mónica

Christina said...

What a drop dead gorgeous coat. The white color give it an 'expensive' look too. Dior would be proud.

Dei said...

Tany,
How amazing! Every detail is flawless and you are such an inspiration. Just more of your sewing magic.

Sheila said...

Fabulous Coat.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, another beauty!I love every single garment that you make. I must now buy my first Vintage pattern and try one :)

Cindy Ann said...

{wild applause} Your work is perfection.

Ana's Closet said...

É de por inveja a qualquer uma! Está lindíssimo, muito delicado. O molde é vintage, mas o tecido é muito actual o que fez uma excelente confecção!
Estou ansiosa para ver como fica vestido!

Beijinhos

Catherine said...

Stunning! I love the vintage but timeless feel of it.

Vicki said...

Tany, so beautiful. Stunning work.

Adelaide B said...

Such a lovely coat. I am inspired to break out some of my own vintage patterns.

Celina said...

QUE LINDO!!!! Super chic! Pronto para desfilar em Paris!
Adoro os detalhes todos mas fiquei rendida ao forro, tão familiar ;) Até o pormenor da etiqueta ilustra o chique e o nível desses moldes.
Parabéns!
(Que inveja da tua colecção de casacos, imagino abrir o teu roupeiro...)

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - its beautiful! Are you going to work on the dress next? And I loved, loved, loved how you placed both labels in the jacket.

KayB said...

Beautiful - what more to say!

Sew4Fun said...

Beautiful and such high quality! It looks like it stepped straight off the runway from the 60's.

Meg said...

Tany your work is absolutely amazing, the details and craftmanship is quite frankly envious. The coat is perfection.

Summerset said...

Gorgeous! Lucky you that the tag was still with the pattern, too.

CreativeBusyHands-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Ficou lindo! Ja estou esperando os proximos modelos (o que voce mencionou que ja esta' fazendo). As etiquetas sao super legais, pricipalmente a sua. Que sorte que voce conseguiu a etiqueta com o molde. Muito obrigada por partilhar mais esta obra de arte.

Josie said...

Wow, your coat is gorgeous and you've really done that beautiful pattern justice. I'm going to be working on the Badgley Mischka jacket soon so I'll look forward to seeing how yours comes out!

caseykoester said...

Wow, Wow, WOW Tany! Your coat is amazing! I love all your details. The embroidery, the coat hook, the labels, the fabric covered snaps... It's just fantastic. I didn't realize that the pattern came with it's own label to sew into the finished product. What a terrific idea!

paco peralta said...

Tany.- En todos los posts precedentes ya se adivinaba que este abrigo sería una pieza extraordinaria, así que no hay sorpresas. Solamente puedo decirte que todos los detalles forman un resultado limpio y perfecto. Enhorabuena. Un abrazo, Paco

Cheryl said...

Gorgeous! You always amaze me Tany :)

Sigrid said...

And an extra comment to let you know I left you an award on my blog post today.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

I gave you an award on my blog :)

anita said...

Tany, what a luxurious coat! Your ability to turn out such high quality garments in a busy life is so inspiring!

Sue said...

I love the vintage style of this coat. It is lovely to hear you enjoyed making it. Great job! I have just started a 5 lesson course to make a jacket so I really have loved reading the details of this coat. Thank you!