Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Blusa justa com mangas tufadas – Fitted blouse with puffed sleeves

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)


Modelo original (burdafashion.com):

Descrição: A característica mais relevante desta blusa é as mangas tufadas, efeito criado por diversas nervuras estreitas na parte superior da manga, e os punhos compridos e ajustados ao pulso. O colarinho tem pé e a blusa é abotoada na frente. Esta blusa fica divina por baixo de um colete ou bolero sem mangas!

Fazendo parte do conjunto “Extravagância cor-de-laranja”, era de esperar que a cor fosse laranja, mas não consegui encontrar um tecido dessa cor com elasticidade (esta blusa só deve ser confeccionada com tecidos finos e elásticos, por ser muito ajustada). Entretanto encontrei algodão stretch fino nesta cor um pouco difícil de definir e à qual as fotos não são fieis: é uma espécie de mistura de verde-tropa com castanho e cinza. Ao lado de cores vivas evidencia-as e acaba por ficar bem com tudo. Além disso é uma das cores da estação (Shitake PANTONE 18-1015), segundo o standard Pantone para o Outono 2008.

Detalhes:



Como viram, escolhi a linha dos pespontos e os botões em castanho dourado para fazer um pouco de contraste.

Os acabamentos foram todos feitos com a corta-e-cose, desta vez:

Mais vistas:


A seguir vou mostrar como fiz as nervuras nas mangas; observem que no molde elas são representadas por uma linha de dobra e uma linha de pesponto:

Como sabem eu alinhavo todas as marcações, mas neste caso só precisei de o fazer para as linhas de dobra:

O que fiz depois foi calibrar a distância da agulha à beira do pé calcador para que fosse igual à distância entre a linha de pesponto e a linha da dobra no molde (o molde está dobrado numa linha de dobra):

Depois é só coser as nervuras, dobrando a manga na linha marcada pelos alinhavos:

As pontas das linhas devem ser rematadas com um nó e enfiadas dentro da dobra com a ajuda de uma agulha, atrás da nervura, cortando depois as pontas rentes:

É só passar cada nervura na dobra:

E assentar todas as nervuras para trás da manga:

Apesar de ter as nervuras, a cabeça da manga ainda tem de ser um pouco franzida; podem ver que usei duas filas de pontos à máquina com comprimento máximo e com pouca tensão na linha (cores contrastantes na foto) para os poder puxar e franzir ligeiramente a cabeça da manga de uniformemente:

Conclusão: Creio que a blusa ficou bastante bem e que se adequa ao conjunto “Extravagância cor-de-laranja” (embora confesse que ainda não a vesti com as restantes peças do conjunto). Como já disse, este modelo é bastante justo, por isso tenham cuidado ao escolher o tamanho. Se não tiverem a certeza, é sempre bom fazer uma prova com tecido barato.

Creio que não vou escrever antes de 2009, por isso desejo desde já a todas as leitoras e leitores um Feliz Ano Novo, pleno de realizações e felicidade! Fiquem bem!


Original model (burdafashion.com):

Description: The main feature of this blouse is the puffed sleeves (effect created by fine tucks on the upper section of the sleeve) and long fitted cuffs. The collar has a stand and the closure is a narrow buttoned front placket. This blouse looks awesome with a vest or waistcoat!

Being an element of the “Orange Extravaganza” set, an orange blouse would be expected but unfortunately I was unable to find stretch shirting fabric in orange (this blouse is very close fitting and should be made of stretch fabric only). Instead I found this thin stretch cotton in a color hard to define, since it’s a mix of green, grey and brown (the pictures don’t show the true color of this fabric). This color is mentioned as one of the fashion colors for fall 2008 by the Pantone Fashion Color Report; it’s called Shitake PANTONE 18-1015 and has a special feature: it enhances most of the other colors when worn together with them.

Details:



As you surely noticed, I used golden brown contrasting topstitching thread and buttons.

I used the serger to overlock the SAs:

More views:


Next I will try to explain the procedure used for making the tucks: first observe that the pattern has two markings side by side for each tuck; the fold line and the topstitching line:

You know me for thread tracing almost everything, but in this case I only thread traced the fold lines:

Then I used the sleeve paper pattern to set the distance from the needle to the right edge of the presser foot (the pattern is folded along a fold line):

Stitching the tucks is easy now, using the presser foot edge as a guide and the fabric folded along each thread traced line:

I always hide the thread ends by knotting them together and threading them on a needle to be able to hide them. The needle should travel inside the tuck on its back side (the side which will be hidden when the tuck is pressed towards the back) and the loose ends trimmed:

Each tuck is pressed along the fold:

And all the tucks are pressed together towards the back of the sleeve:

In spite of the tucks, the sleeve head still needs some easing when set. I used two rows of long loose tension stitches (see the contrasting thread) to ease the sleeve to the armhole. The loose stitches come off easily just by pulling the contrasting threads after stitching the armhole.

Conclusion: I believe this shirt looks quite well together with the other elements of the OE set (though I must confess I haven’t tried it on yet!). This model is very close fitting so be careful when choosing your size; if you doubt the BWOF fit, you better make a muslin first, at least for the torso.

I think I won’t post anything until 2009 so I wish all my friends and readers a Happy New Year, full of great accomplishments, good health and happiness! See you then!

47 comments:

Vicki W said...

The tucks int he sleefe are a great design element and I love the buttons you selected. Another winner! Happy New Year!

Erica B. said...

Gorgeous blouse! I really love the pintucks!

cidell said...

I was going to make this blouse for the longest time, but had a horrible tucking experience on another sleeve. This is so cool!

Frida said...

I've been thinking of making sleeves sort of like that and actually I've made something similar, but with larger pleats. Anyway nice shirt! And your description of the fabric makes me want something like it.

Adrienne said...

I LOVE those pintucks!

berry said...

Great blouse with very nice design and details - I like the pintucks and long cuffs very much. And I love your buttons!
Have a good sewing-year 2009!
Best wishes from berry, Switzerland

Charlene McGill said...

Thank you for the tutorial. Happy New Years to you and your Family.

Amanda S. said...

Great design and perfect execution, as usual. I've been so enjoying all that you've posted lately. Happy New Year!

Bunny said...

Fabulous design beautifully executed, as always!

Karen said...

This is beautiful - way prettier than the magazine version. I love the color, too. When I saw the Pantone chart, Shitake was one of the colors I liked and thought would work with all my orange.

toy said...

very beautiful tany

CORTEYGRIF said...

Amei a blusa
um show essas nervuras na manga,e o modelo lindo!
desejo te boas entradas no novo ano,que sigas com esse entusiasmo que tens pela costura,e que tenhas sempre muita saude amiga!
um abaço com muito carinho.
te quero un monton guapa!
ROSA

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - I think the blouse is in the perfect "neutral" color and that it will work beautifully with the Orange pieces.

I hope that you and your family have a wonderful, happy and healthy New Year!!!

Cennetta said...

Tany, The blouse is outstanding. It's always a treat to see the steps taken to finesse the details.

Miss Linda said...

How very lovely. Your construction details and photographs are so very helpful. Thank you so very much for taking the time to share your techniques. I wish you a blessed new year, filled with peace, joy and prosperity!

Summerset said...

Very stylish - I can definitely see this being worn with the other pieces to this collection, the trousers, skirt, sweater.

Sew4Fun said...

Lovely blouse. I like it so much I've put the pattern on my sewing list. :) Happy New Year to you too!

Pamela Erny said...

Tany...this blouse is stunning!

Pam, from ~Off The Cuff Style~

Ambitious Sewer said...

That blouse is absolutel beautiful!

Sue said...

Love the blouse - thank you for showing us the details. I also love the dublin bag!
Have a lovely New Year - I look forward to seeing your projects in 2009!

Natalija said...

Great work as usual. I am so thankful for showing us all the details and some of the process. I want to sew like you =). Thanks for the inspiration. Have a blessed New Year.

anita said...

Such a uniquely detailed blouse! Thanks for illustrating how you did the pintucks. Love the buttons you chose too.

Happy New Year! Hope it's peaceful, happy and healthy!

Maja said...

Another gorgeous creation from you Tany!
Happy New Year to you too and all the best in 2009!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

I love this shirt Tany. It is very stylish and I think it will beautifully compliment the rest of the collection!
Wishing you all the very best in the New Year!

Cookie*kawaii* said...

Ola!
A blusa ficou muito gira! E a bolsa no post abaixo é mt mt gira!
Queria desejar te um feliz ano Novo para ti e para a tua familia!
Bom 2009! bjs ^-^

Ana Carina said...

Olá Tany!

É lindíssima esta camisa! Gosto especialmente das mangas tufadas e dos punhos largos.
A cor é excelente e é combinação perfeita com o laranga (eu própria visto laranja a combinar com castanho).

Aproveito para desejar umas boas entradas e que 2009 seja melhor que 2008, a todos os niveis.

Beijinhos

Dei said...

O.k. enough. No more gorgeous clothing. I can't stand it anymore. Where do you get the time to do all of this? The blouse is fabulous and the pintucking is perfect!

Lisette M said...

What a beautiful blouse! I love reading the construction details. Feliz Ano Nuevo!!

KayB said...

Lovely details, beautifully executed - what a great blouse!

margi said...

I think the color of this blouse will actually "push" the orange items better. Love it!

Vicki said...

Such beautiful work. Thanks for the tip on moving the needle. Such a simple thing but I rarely think to make use of it. Really, really looking forward to seeing all the pieces modeled :)

Sigrid said...

Happy new year to you Tany!

The blouse looks wonderful. I've made it last year, and it's a favorite! I'm sure you'll wear it with pleasure.

Nile e Richard said...

Olá amiga,bom dia.

Voce foi chegando de mansinho,se instalando de vagarinho e hoje faz parte do meu dia á dia.
Que impora se somos amigas virtuais!?!?
O que importa é a amizade o carinho e respeito que nasce a cada dia.
A admiração pela dedicação em monstrar-nos tudo de bom.
Venho brindar o Ano Novo e a Nossa Amizade.
Neste ano novo que se inicia possamos caminhar mais e mais juntas em busca de um mundo melhor.Um dia que nasce um novo caminho um desafio uma oportunidade.Muitas realizações.
Feliz Ano Novo
Tudo de bom para voce.bjtos.Nile e Richard.

Ana'scloset said...

Excelente trabalho! Adoro a camisa, especialmenste as mangas, que ficaram amorosas! Os botões são um charme!
Tudo de bom para este ano!

Beijinhos

Ana'scloset said...

E as preguinhas fazem-me lembrar o meu vestido azul/preto! Fi-las tal e qual como mostras! =)

CBH-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Como usual, o seu trabalho e' uma obra de arte. Parabens de novo. Adorei a blusa. Feliz Ano Novo

madhatter said...

good goddess, tany!
this blouse is perfect. stunning. beautiful!
i'd definitely go right up in my sewing room and see if i have a matching fabric handy! blame it on you! ^-^

Mamã Martinho said...

A camisa ficou bem gira! Apesar de não ser laranja acho que vai ficar muito bem com o conjunto. E agora o que vem? O conjunto Baunilha Chocolate?

Bjs

Mónica

Jackie said...

Beautiful blouse!!

Colette said...

Absolutely stunning blouse, you absolutely blow me away with your amazing skills.

Happy New Year to you too Tany,

I hope it's a fabulous one.

xxx

valoo said...

iut's the first time I visit your blog and I'm truly amazed at this blouse ; congratulations.
Valoo from France

Alexandra said...

Gorgeous blouse! The pintucks are awesome!

Happy New Year!

paco peralta said...

Tany.- esta camisa es el complemento perfecto para todo el vestuario naranja. El color es muy versatil y los detalles del modelo hacen que sea una prenda única. ahhh...me encanta el bolso, es super-fashion. enhorabuena.

Un abrazo, Paco

Gwen said...

Wow - I love the sleeves! And that's a great way to do them - thanks for the photo tutorial! :)

LauraLo said...

I was going to make this blouse for a long time too... but I was always afraid that the sleeves would be too puffy for me. Now you've convinced me it's worth trying. Yours looks great (I'd love to see it on you, of course) and what an interesting colour.

Miss Sewing said...

La camisa es preciosa, me gusta mucho los puños, y el color muy ponible.
Besos
Ana

Audrey said...

Fiquei fora um pouquinho e você trabalhou bastante heim.
Linda sua blusa.
Bjs,
Audrey