English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Tão importante como aplicar bem as técnicas de costura, escolher o tecido adequado e utilizar os melhores materiais, é a passagem a ferro à medida que se vai cosendo. Para passar a ferro há algumas ferramentas e devo dizer que em Portugal não encontrei nenhuma destas ferramentas à venda, (excepto uma luva de passar), tendo encomendado ou recebido as minhas do estrangeiro.
O crepe de lã é um tecido que requer muito cuidado ao passar, pois facilmente os valores de costura deixam marcas visíveis no tecido do lado do direito. Seguindo uma sugestão da Els, não rematei os valores de costura, pois assim há menos probabilidade de deixarem marcas. Como vão ficar escondidos pelo forro não há qualquer problema. Mesmo assim é conveniente ter algum cuidado. As costuras devem ser passadas de um lado e do outro e depois abertas. Ao passá-las abertas utilizo tiras de papel para proteger o tecido por baixo. As costuras curvas devem ser passadas sobre uma almofada de alfaiate (também chamada de presunto de alfaiate).
Outra ferramenta muito útil para costuras curvas é o banquinho de alfaiate (este é uma verdadeira antiguidade!):
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Links com artigos interessantes sobre a passagem a ferro:
Artigos sobre acessórios para passar a ferro do blog The Sewing Divas (da Els), incluindo informação sobre os banquinhos de alfaiate:
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/02/22/pressing-equipment/
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/02/27/pressing-equipment-part-2/
Artigo da Cidell sobre diversas almofadas de alfaiate:
http://missceliespants.blogspot.com/2008/01/hams.html
Artigo da Dawn sobre a tábua de alfaiate June Tailor:
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-and-pressing-board.html
Vídeo online da revista Threads, de Ann Steeves (Gorgeous Things):
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt052.asp
Fichas de cursos de costura:
http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C-309.pdf
http://www.ca.uky.edu/hes/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-LMH.019.PDF
The pressing techniques and the good use of proper pressing tools, together with the ”press as you go” principle are as important as the knowledge of the best sewing techniques, the right choice of fabric and the use of the best sewing notions. There are several pressing tools (though I must say that the only one I found available locally was a pressing mitt, so most of my pressing tools were either ordered from abroad or received as gifts from my sewing friends all over the world).
The wool crepe requires extra care when pressing because it’s quite easy to obtain an imprint on the right side while pressing over the seam allowances or hem allowances on the wrong side. Following Els’ suggestion, I didn’t serge finish the seam allowances, leaving them as raw edges; this will lessen the chances of the seam allowances showing on the right side. All the inner construction details will be hidden by the lining so no need to worry about these raw edges. I also used strips of brown paper while pressing the seams open, to avoid imprints on the right side. All the curved seams should be pressed on a round surface, like a tailor/dressmaker ham:
A pressing buck is also a useful tool to have around. This one is a genuine antique!
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Here are a few more useful web links addressing pressing tools and techniques:
Articles from The Sewing Divas blog on pressing tools and techniques, where Els shows her fabulous collection of pressing tools, including her pressing bucks:
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/02/22/pressing-equipment/
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/02/27/pressing-equipment-part-2/
Article showing several different kinds of tailor/dressmaking hams, by Cidell:
http://missceliespants.blogspot.com/2008/01/hams.html
Article by Dawn where she explains the use of the June Tailor Board:
http://www.mysecretpocket.com/2007/09/vogue-jacket-and-pressing-board.html
Online video tip (Threads magazine) by Ann Steeves (Gorgeous Things):
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt052.asp
Sewing factsheets:
http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C-309.pdf
http://www.ca.uky.edu/hes/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-LMH.019.PDF
23 comments:
Tany.- no creas que es un cumplido, es una admiración lo que siento por este magnífico trabajo de costura y transmisión de datos sobre todas las técnicas. Un fuerte abrazo y gracias de nuevo por ofrecernos todos estos conocimientos. Paco
I'm slowly learning how important pressing tools are and in addition to my pressing tools purchased a dritz sleeve board and padded pressing board for my pants.
Excellent post!
Great post. I have most of those pressing tools too. They really make a difference. It was nice to see the tailors stiches on your lapel too. I had seen this in one tailoring book but had not seen elsewhere.
Hola Tany:
Estoy maravillada con tu manera de trabajar, al mismo tiempo quiero agradecer el enlace que has colocado en tu página de mi blog. Gracias. Un abrazo
Great post! Pressing is my weakness. I really liketh eway you have broken down the Portugese and English text, since I couldn't see the English in my reader (it was yellow, against a white background) until now (the text is black). I can actually read your complete posts without necessarily clicking through to your blog. As a consequence, I will now get to read more of them, since I dont have to judge my interest by the title alone!
I totally agree! you can really see a difference in your garments! I love pressing now with my new Iron lol
Yest, pressing is as important as accurate sewing, though I don't have all tools you have, I spend a lot of time pressing while sewing.
Great post.
Your work is exquisite as always, my dear friend! You should be a teacher
I discovered the pressing hams with cidell not long ago and this post makes me understand all the depth there can be in pressing. Thank you again for sharing all this knowledge with us.
Hello Tany,
an excellent pladoyer for the pressing matters. The jacket is going to be beautiful!
Best regards,
Katrin
Minha querida, eu NÃO costuro ,não tenho geito... massssssssssss estou assim de boca aberta.Vi seu blog todo,nunquinha farei nadinha ,mas é tudo LINDO.Minha mãe era professora e modista.Além de costurar muito bem com muito capricho,tinha um bom gosto incrível,por isso, não faço mas entendo o que vejo.
Beijoca.
Nilda.
http://meucantin5.blogspot.com/
I'm so impressed with all the documentation and tutorials you're writing while making this jacket.
And how exciting that Paco will be collaborating on your next post.
All I've been working on for two weeks are fast and easy knits, it's fabulous to come here and just immerse myself in your incredible project.
It's lovely.
Consigo perceber bem a utilidades dos acessórios que mostras, qualquer pessoas, que passe a ferro consegue perceber a dificuldade que se tem ao passar certas partes de peças de roupa.
Bjs
Mónica
Tany - great post! One of my favorite pressing tools is my clapper. I love slapping that piece of wood down on a seam, letting it set and then lifting it to find the perfect thinner seam!
olá amiga passei para ver as novidades e te desejar um fim de semana cheinho de PAZ beijinhos Sandra Allima.
Great post Tany. Thank you for continuing to share all of your sewing knowledge. I learn something new every time I read your blog and I've been sewing for more than 40 years.
I love that you;ve added the check boxes for English Portuguese to your blog. It makes it so much easier to read. (however, I'm not getting the Enlgish on this post - but it's working on the others.)
Nilda e Sandra Allima: Obrigada e bem-vindas ao Couture et Tricot!
Nancy W.: Thanks Nancy; sometimes this happens but I think you can fix it by refreshing the page and then unchecking the Portuguese and checking the English box.
Thanks to all!
Obrigada a todas!
Gracias a todos!
olá... Me chamo GEssyca Quinteiro Rodrigues, tenho 20 anos, e faço moda sob medida.
Procuro a muito tempo esses acessórios pra alfaiataria na internet... e nunca achei nada... só acho comentarios.. mas quero comprar...onde eu posso adquirir esses produtos??
Sou BRasileira, moro em Santana do Livramento , Rio gRande do Sul... Fronteira com Uruguai!
Aguardo contato... tenho msn
podes me adcionar!
dyehmodajovem@hotmail.com
Aguardo ansiosamente por contato!
Gessyca: Oi, enviei resposta para o seu email
Parabéns pelo seu blog com informações primorosas sobre moda e costura focada na arte do fazer, do construir, de elaborar uma peça clássica do vestuário feminino como uma tela de Picaso única e genuína. Isto sim é a verdadeira essência de quem se dedica por anos na árdua, mas adorável atividade do costurar que se chama talento!
Vou divulgá-la no meu blog aos meus alunos!
Fique com Deus.
Claudia Goularth
Tany, sou uma amante da costura desde criança e agora estou fazendo um curso e estou amando. Parabéns pelas suas informações sobre equipamentos para passar, estou buscando para comprar mas até agora não consegui, como não falo inglês fica mais difícil ainda. Você pode me ajudar? Meu nome e contato: Me chamo Cristiane e meu msn é: cris_vida23@hotmail.com
Gostaria que se possível vc me enviasse pelo e-mail alguma informação sobre como posso comprar os itens que mencionei para passar.
Obrigadão!!!!!!!!
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