Saturday, December 1, 2007

Casaco Phildar assimétrico – Asymmetric Phildar jacket

Aqui têm o casaco pronto! Depois de alguns meses eis que consigo concluir um projecto de tricô. Não foi fácil, primeiro porque dei prioridade à costura, depois porque o Verão foi mais comprido que o usual, retirando parte da motivação para concluir este projecto.
Here's the finished jacket! It took a few months to finally present a finished knitted garment but this delay was due to the late end of Summer and also to the highest priority I've been giving to my sewing projects lately.

Modelo original:
Original model:

Modelo n28A do catálogo Phildar Collections Automne 2007-12-01 (tamanho 38/40).
This is modell 28A from the Phildar book Fall Collection 2007 (European size 38/40).

Material: Agulhas de 8mm, 450g de fio Beaugency, 450g de fio Wilky no mesmo tom, 6 botões grandes, 2 molas de pressão grandes de coser e agulha de tapeçaria grossa.
Materials: 8mm needles, 450g of Beaugency yarn, 450g of Wilky yarn on the same color, 6 big buttons, 2 large metal snaps and a tapestry needle.

Pontos usados: Ponto meia do avesso e liga nas 2 últimas malhas das orlas da frente.
Stiches used: Reverse stockinette and purl stitch on the last two stitches on the front edges.

Detalhes / Details:

O lado esquerdo da frente (que fica por baixo do trespasse); a beira que não tem gola foi rematada com um ponto baixo de croché:
The left front side (that lies behind the right front); the raw edge was finished with crochet stitches:
A frente direita (vista do avesso):
The right front side (reverse side view):
As casas de botão; embora não seja referido nas instruções, fiz um remate em ponto cobertor em redor das casas, usando apenas o fio Wilky:
The buttonholes; though it is not referred by the instructions, I finished the buttonhole edges with a blanket stitch using one strand of the Wilky yarn:
O detalhe do botão cosido também com fio Wilky; resolvi espaçar mais os botões pois estes são um pouco maiores que os do modelo original.
The buttons are also stitched using one strand of Wilky yarn; I decided to move the buttons farther apart on my version because my buttons are larger than the originals.
A gola, do lado do avesso e do direito; em vez de a tricotar à parte e depois uni-la dobrada ao decote, resolvi apanhar as malhas directamente no decote e depois de rematar, coser a outra extremidade ao decote por dentro:
The collar, on both the wrong side and the right side; instead of knitting the collar as a separate piece and then joining it to the neckline, I picked the stitches directly from the neckline; after completing two lengths, I casted off, turned the collar to the inside and stitched it to the wrong side of the neckline:

O casaco foi cosido com pontos atrás, usando o fio Wilky. Podem ver a cava por dentro:
All seams were backstitched using a single strand of yarn; you can see the wrong side of the armhole next: Conclusão: Um casaco muito quente, algo a lembrar os anos 60. Gosto especialmente da gola e da frente assimétrica. A mistura dos dois fios dá-lhe um toque muito macio. A frente do casaco “cresce” um pouco ao longo da orla, devido ao peso da lã, mas até gosto do efeito assimétrico que cria. Espero que gostem, foi um projecto engraçado de tricotar e, já agora, penso que foi o projecto em que usei agulhas mais grossas até hoje!
Conclusion: A very cosy jacket, somehow reminding the 60s stylelines. I specially love its collar and the asymmetric front. The two yarns mix creates a fabulous soft effect. The jacket front edges tend to “grow” due to the weight of the yarn creating a sort od slopped hemline but I kind of like the asymmetry. I hope you like this jacket, it was a fun knitting project and until know I’ve never tried such huge needles before!

27 comments:

Adrienne said...

Tany this is BEAUTIFUL! You did a fantastic job!

Vicki said...

I am not a knitter so cannot appreciate all the knitting points, but it sure does look warm and cosy!

Theresa said...

I love the colour and for a 'bulky' knit it looks reasonably fitted and shapely-great job.

Erica B. said...

Tany, this jacket is gorgeous! I love it.

berry said...

Hi Tany,
this turned out beautifully! I like the cut and color very much.
Greetings from berry

Berry said...

Wow, it looks great. Excelente trabalho como senpre.

Berry (a segunda)

latoya said...

your jacket is beautiful, I love the buttons and the color is perfect!

Tini said...

oooh cooozy! Perfect for this time of years weather!

Isabelle said...

Your jacket is truly beautiful and cosy... You did a great job! You sound like such an expert in knitting as well. I love the colour and it looks beautiful against your hair! :) Big hugs, dear Tany! I'm sorry I haven't emailed you yet... The week has been rather upsetting, to say the least!
((((Tany))))

Audrey said...

Adorei o casaco e o efeito assimétrico também pela foto a lã parece ser bem fofinha e quentinha.
Beijos,
Audrey

christina said...

Cozy and stylish at the same time. It's beautiful!

May said...

Congrats, Tany! I love soft knitted garments. They are not easily achieved with woven fabrics, IMHO. It looks lovely and cozy on you.

If you decide that you don't like the asymmetrical front, I have an idea for you. It is not my original idea, but someone who sews for my friend had this idea. One of my knitting friends did a very nice garment, but had a problem with unstable hems with waves. Obviously, hems were stretched out somehow. She consulted her tailor. The tailor’s solution was to apply chain stitches, as in embroidery, along the stretched hems, pulling fabric tighter ever so slightly with each stitch. My friend showed the work to me as she was so pleased with the result. It was done using a hand-sewing thread. I say this because it was not as thin as a sewing machine thread, but thinner than a buttonhole thread. I do similar treatments to stretched-out neckline/armholes, but my method does not work as well and as beautifully as my friend’s tailor. I have not used the above method myself, but I thought it is worth keeping a note of it.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Ohmygosh! I thought from the first picture that this was a "sewn" jacket from a boucle fabric...since I don't knit I didn't realize that it was a knitted jacket from a pattern that everyone knew...I am blown away! That is absolutely fantastic!

Anonymous said...

Gorgoeus, gorgeous color Tany! It looks so much fun to wear! Phyllis

Marji said...

Just lovely! Frankly, it looks better on you than on the model.
one question, one suggestion:
1. What did you back the snaps with? (and bonus question, did it feel like knitting with orange juice cans? I can't imagine knitting with 8mm...since the largest I've been knitting with lately are 3mm's)

2. Last 2 knit garments, I've found that hand sewing a twill tape stabilizer along the shoulder seam inside, helps to keep it from growing and falling off the shoulders. Just a thought, that might decide to grow from the shoulders down too.

Lori said...

This is gorgeous, Tany.

LauraLo said...

Tany, I adore that jacket! The design, the asymmetrical closure, the colour, the way it looks on you... gorgeous!

Mamã Martinho said...

Fica-te mesmo bem! Gostei imenso de te ver com ele, e parece mesmo quentinho e agradável. Bem quanto a mim já tricotei com agulhas 12, não são nada práticas, mas o trabalho cresce num instante!

Bjs

Mónica

Anonymous said...

Hi Tany-U are a genius! would it be too much to ask for you to show us how the jacket looks when worn but left open-
I have a feeling its a close-only kind of jacket- if it is, it would be a pity-

rosa said...

JÁ FIZESTE A TUA ARVORE DE NATAL?
TROUXE UMA PRA TI.

___________________Paz
__________________União
_________________Alegrias
________________Esperanças
_______________Amor.Sucesso
______________Realizações★Luz
_____________Respeito★harmonia
____________Saúde★..solidariedade
___________Felicidade ★...Humildade
__________Confraternização ★..Pureza
_________Amizade ★Sabedoria★.Perdão
________Igualdade★Liberdade.Boa-.sorte
_______Sinceridade★Estima★.Fraternidade
______Equilíbrio★Dignidade★...Benevolência
_____Fé★Bondade_Paciência..Gratidão_Força
____Tenacidade★Prosperidade_.Reconhecimento
- ¨.•´¨) . ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.•´¨). ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.-
- ¨.•´¨) . ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.•´¨). ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.-

VAMOS FAZER ESTA ÁRVORE CIRCULAR
ATÉ O FIM DO ANO PARA ENERGIZAR 2008.
UMA BOA SEMANA PRA TI TANY
BJS

macati said...

ficou supergiro! tb gosto do efeito assimétrico e da cor!
:)

paco peralta said...

Tany.- Te quedo estupenda esta chaqueta de tricot. Me gusta mucho su linea simple con el cierre asimétrico. Enhorabuena. Te mando un e-mail esta noche si puedo. Gracias por todo, de veras. Un abrazo, Paco.

Tany said...

Obrigada meninas!
Thank you all!

May: Thanks! I'm still deciding on whatever I like the asymetrical front or not... As I said to you by email, I only wore this jacket with a large belt on; I need to wear it single and see how I feel! Your tip is great and I might use it in the future or if I decide to skip the symetrical fronts anf go for the straight edges instead!

Marji: Hi, it's always so nice to hear from you! I didn't back the snaps, intead I made a few rows of running stitches on the back of the place where the snaps were sewn, like I was mending... I used the same strand as for sewing the snaps on. The result was quite sturdy! Of course these snaps are not the "hard to open" kind and I don't need to stress them very often; if so I would have to use some backing, maybe a circle of felt fabric on the same color as the jacket.
As for using these enormous needles, it just takes a little bit of practice. It was hard at first and my wrists ached a little until I get used to the large needles.

Anonymous Thank you! You are right, this is a stay buttoned only jacket but I was aware of it since I saw its diagram and the way the collar should be attached and I didn't mind that at all; the yarn is so heavy and bulky that the collar wouldn't be right if it went on to the edge of the left front so (because the two fronts overlap)...
I have a small request for you too :): I would prefer that you signed your name or a nick name the next time you comment, just so that I'll be able to identify you! (please...:)) Thanks again!

Rosa: que árvore tão bonita!!! Obrigada, Amiga!

Sismada said...

JÁ MONTOU SUA ÁRVORE DE NATAL?
TROUXE UMA PRA VOCÊ.

___________________Paz
__________________União
_________________Alegrias
________________Esperanças
_______________Amor.Sucesso
______________Realizações★Luz
_____________Respeito★harmonia
____________Saúde★..solidariedade
___________Felicidade ★...Humildade
__________Confraternização ★..Pureza
_________Amizade ★Sabedoria★.Perdão
________Igualdade★Liberdade.Boa-.sorte
_______Sinceridade★Estima★.Fraternidade
______Equilíbrio★Dignidade★...Benevolência
_____Fé★Bondade_Paciência..Gratidão_Força
____Tenacidade★Prosperidade_.Reconhecimento
- ¨.•´¨) . ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.•´¨). ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.-
- ¨.•´¨) . ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.•´¨). ×`•.¸.•´× (¨`•.-

VAMOS FAZER ESTA ÁRVORE CIRCULAR
ATÉ O FIM DO ANO PARA ENERGIZAR 2008.
uma boa semana pra ti bjs.

Anynha Crochê said...

Olá Amiga!!!
Aula maravilhosa parabens.

Um verdadeiro amigo é alguém capaz de tocar teu coração desde o outro lado do mundo.
Desejo a vc uma maravilhosa e abençoada semana...bjuss

dawn said...

It's beautiful and has a more flattering shape than the one in the picture. It reminds me of an Eileen Fischer sweater someone just brought me to alter, actually.

Eva Lima said...

Lindíssimo! Fica-te muito bem e a lã tem um aspecto muito fofo e quente.