Sunday, November 11, 2007

Uma gabardina inspirada em Christian Lacroix – Christian Lacroix inspired trench coat


A história que deu origem a este projecto é muito simples; ao folhear o novo catálogo LaRedoute de Outono/Inverno, deparei-me com este modelo:
The story behind this Project is quite simple; when I was browsing through the last LaRedoute catalogue I came across this model:
Que é um original de Christian Lacroix para a LaRedoute, chamado Falbala.
This is a Christian Lacroix original, designed for LaRedoute and it's called Falbala.

Quando o vi lembrei-me imediatamente de um modelo que saiu numa revista Patrones de 2006 que só não fiz na altura porque não encontrei um tecido adequado. O modelo da Patrones também é de Christian Lacroix mas tem algumas diferenças em relação ao modelo que se encontra à venda na LaRedoute:
When I saw it I immediately recalled another model I saw in a past Patrones 2006 magazine, also by Christian Lacroix. I remember aiming to make this model and not succeeding on finding the right fabric for it at the time. The Patrones model is slightly different, as you can see in the next picture:
Reparem que não tem o folho ao longo do meio da frente e da gola e que abotoa no centro em vez de ser de trespasse; além disso, no modelo LaRedoute a capa é ligeiramente mais curta e a gola tem lapelas. Tirando estes pormenores, as duas gabardinas são bastante semelhantes no estilo.
Note that there is no flouce along the front edge and collar; the Falbala trench has a crossed over front and collar with lapels as opposite to the Patrones, which feature a centered button closure and a shirt collar. The Falbala trench also has the cape a little shorter but other than these details, the two trench coats are quite familiar in style.

Quando vi este tecido (tafetá vermelho engelhado com um ligeiro brilho) à venda numa loja local não tive qualquer dúvida; ocorreu-me imediatamente a ideia desta gabardina! A assistente da loja informou-me que a composição é 100% poliéster mas o tecido é um pouco diferente dos tafetás 100% poliéster que tenho visto à venda. Este tecido tem mais corpo (é mais "rijo") e para o coser tive de usar agulhas Microtex (agulhas especiais para tecidos muito densos) e digo agulhas porque uma não chegou; o tecido vai gastando a ponta e tornando-a romba, e a agulha teve de ser substituída uma vez. Este tecido tinha 3m de largo, por isso comprei apenas 1.5m, totalizando com um rectângulo de 3x1.5m.
When I laid my eyes on this fabric (slightly iridescent wrinkled red taffeta) I immediately new that this is the ideal fabric for what I had in my mind! The shop attendant informed me that its composition was 100% polyester but I tell you this fabric feels differently from other 100% poly taffetas I’ve been seeing around here. It has more body and I had to use Microtex needles (special purpose needles for dense fabrics); I said "needles" and not "needle" because this baby can wear out a needle in no time! The fabric width was aprox. 120" so I bought 60" instead of the 120" (60" wide) recommended on the Patrones instructions.

Por ser um pouco mais discreto, as linhas do modelo da Patrones atraíram-me mais e resolvi então basear-me nesse molde para fazer a gabardina vermelha. Mais tarde surgiu a oportunidade de ir a Paris e no espaço de menos de uma semana tentei acabar este projecto para o poder usar durante a minha estadia. Como já expliquei, acabei por não a terminar a tempo pois para conseguir isso teria eu deixar de parte alguns pormenores que para mim são importantes. Acabei-a depois de regressar das férias, no Domingo passado.
I was more attracted by the Patrones trench style lines because they are more discrete (If I am allowed to apply the word "discrete" to this trenchcoat). So I decided to go with the Patrones pattern as a start point and keep true to its overall appearance. Later came the opportunity to go to Paris and I felt this urge to make this trench in time and wear it in Paris! It was perfect for the occasion! I tried hard, believe me, but in the end I wasn’t going to pass on the finest details just to have this trench ready in time. So I finished it a couple of days after coming back, taking my time to enjoy the process and really enhance the trench coat with a few fine details.

Modificações ao modelo original (da Patrones): Se possível, gosto que as peças que faço sejam completamente forradas. O modelo original da Patrones não é forrado e tendo esse facto em mente resolvi prolongar a vista seguida da frente (a parte que dobra para dentro onde depois ficam os botões e as casas) até ao ombro e fazer um molde para uma vista do decote atrás. Para cortar o forro usei o molde da gabardina mas descontando da frente e das costas a largura das vistas. Também forrei a capa antes de a aplicar (as instruções mencionam apenas uma bainha). Ao coser a banda pregueada na bainha resolvi colocar apenas uma banda em vez das duas referidas nas instruções, para dar à gabardina um aspecto mais leve. Em vez de casas de botão normais, fiz casas de botão avivadas triangulares (inspirada pelo livro "Couture, The Ert of Fine Sewing"); por baixo do peito no forro acrescentei um bolso avivado com botão e acrescentei uns bordados à máquina em vermelho sobre vermelho nas vistas e na dobra do forro atrás. Encurtei a largura das passadeiras para o cinto. As vistas, a parte de baixo da gola, ambas as partes do pé da gola e o sítio da abertura do bolso interior foram entretelados.
Modifications to the original pattern (Patrones): If possible I always full line all my garments; the Patrones original doesn't feature a lining so its facings were limited to the button closure area; I extended the facing so it reached the shoulder and made a back neckline facing with the same width at the shoulders. To cut the lining I used the same patterns but took off the facing width on the front and back panels. I also lined the cape (the instructions mention a "turned up twice" hem). The hem bands were reduced to a single band instead of two (it seemed lighter this way) and I made triangular bound buttonholes a la Roberta Carr's book "Couture, the Art of Fine Sewing". I also added an inside chest pocket (for women garments the pocket should be placed 1-2 inches above the armhole) and also some machine embroidery embellishment on the facings and lining fold. The waist belt carriers are also shortened in my version (in spite of the wide belt, I don't thing a 4 ½ inch belt carrier is really necessary). The facings, the undercollar, both pieces of the collar stand and the pocket opening placement area on the lining were all interfaced using what I believe is equivalent to ProWeft interfacing.

Passemos então aos detalhes que mencionei:
Let's see the details then:

A capa completamente forrada, sendo o s valores de costura ao longo da orla inferior cosidos ao forro:
The cape is lined and the bottom edge is also understitched:

As vistas prolongam-se até aos ombros em vez de terminarem no início da gola:
The facings extend to the shoulder instead of ending at the neckline edge:

Foi acrescentada uma vista na linha do decote atrás (notem o bordado vermelho sobre vermelho ao longo da beira da vista):
The added back neckline facing (note the red on red embroidery all around the facing edge):
A dobra do forro no meio das costas é fixada com um pesponto e com bordados, tanto no início da dobra como à altura da cintura e perto da bainha da gabardina (fui inspirada por este post excelente da Dawn):
The center back fold is also tacked in place using embroidery stitches at the upper edge, waist and bottom edge (I was inspired by this excellent post by Dawn):


O forro foi parcialmente cosido à máquina; a orla que fica junto ao lado das casas dos botões e a bainha, assim como a bainha do forro nas mangas, foram cosidos à mão. Notem a pequena prega que se forma na bainha tanto nas mangas como na saia da gabardina, para folga e liberdade de movimento:
The lining was partially machine stitched to the facings; the edge where the buttonholes are placed, the hem and the sleeve hems were all handstitched. Note how the lining folds on the hem thus providing more ease of movement when wearing the trenchcoat:

As casas de botão são avivadas e triangulares; usei o método descrito no livro "Couture, The Art of Fine Sewing" de Roberta Carr. Podem consultar aqui os fundamentos deste método; adaptá-lo para casas triangulares é muito fácil.
The triangular bound buttonholes; I was inspired by the book "Couture, The Art of Fine Sewing" by Roberta Carr. You can see here the basic principle of constructing this kind of bound buttonholes; adapting these instructions from rectangle to triangular buttonholes is not difficult.


Os botões são cosidos com um botão de reforço por dentro:
There's an inside little button for reinforcement on the back of each covered button:
Aqui podem ver o bolso de peito por dentro da gabardina, que no caso de vestuário feminino deve ser colocado por baixo do peito (uns 5cm abaixo da cava):
Here is the inside chest pocket; for women garments this pocket should be placed about 2 inches bellow the armhole:

Como devem imaginar, este tecido não encolhe e por isso a aplicação das mangas não é fácil. As mangas são aplicadas depois da capa e do corpo da gabardina estarem prontos, com a capa colocada sobre a gabardina e presa com alfinetes ao longo do decote e das cavas. A partira daqui capa e gabardina são tratados como um só e as mangas e o colarinho são aplicados como normalmente:
As you all are guessing by now, this fabric doesn't ease at all so extra care was needed through the process of setting in the sleeves. If necessary the sleeve cap can be slightly shortened. Before setting in the sleeves and sewing the collar on, the lined cape should be pinned to the bodice at the armholes and neckline. The cape and bodice are treated as one when setting in the sleeves and sewing on the collar.


As mangas levam uns cintos que ajustam ao braço e levam passadeiras para os cintos:
The sleeves have tie belts and belt carriers:
O cinto da cintura é bastante largo (10cm) e as passadeiras foram desenhadas com o tamanho correspondente. No entanto, ao usar o cinto engelha e fica mais estreito, por isso resolvi diminuir o tamanho destas passadeiras:
The waist belt is quite wide (4 inches) but when wearing it tied it won't appear this wide so I shortened the waist belt carriers accordingly:
Para fazer a banda pregueada, fiz uma tira de 3m por 15cm de largo e embainhei-a a toda a volta; depois, de 3 em 3cm cosi uma prega de 1cm de profundidade mas usando uma tensão muito baixa na linha da agulha para depois a poder puxar e desmanchar os pontos com facilidade. Assentei as pregas a ferro e alinhavei a tira à bainha da gabardina, para depois a coser pelo meio da tira. Uma vez feito isto retirei os pontos que seguravam as pregas. Para evitar que a banda caísse sobre si própria, cosi à máquina uma prega de três em três à gabardina e o resultado final foi este:
To construct the pleated hem band I cut a 120"x 6" stripe of fabric, hemmed it on every edge and stitched little pleats using a loose tension on the needle. The pleats were 1cm wide and 3cm far apart (as per Patrones instructions). I pressed them to one side starting from the center of the band and to the other side on the remaining band. Then I stitched it to the trench hem; after the band is stitched in place I could remove the stitches that were forming the pleats. This is when something unexpected happened: the band fell in half at the stitches! I fixed this problem tacking the pleats to the hem every 3 pleats or so. The final result was this:
Detalhe do pesponto que segura uma prega:
The stitching holding one pleat in place:
Conclusão: Uma peça única, que não posso dizer que seja discreta mas mesmo assim um pouco mais discreta que o original da LaRedoute! Por um lado tenho pena de não a ter podido usar em Paris mas se tivesse, agora não vos estaria a mostrar o bolso interior e as casas triangulares, de certeza! Estou bastante satisfeita com este projecto e como a forma como assenta no corpo e posso considerar que todo este trabalho valeu a pena. Em Paris está a decorrer uma exposição sobre Christian Lacroix que se iniciou uns dias depois de eu partir; imaginam como seria visitar esta exposição a usar esta gabardina? Pois é, foi uma pena, mas adiar a viagem estava fora de questão…
O tecido foi extraordinariamente difícil de fotografar (as primeiras fotos à janela mostram a cor real), e foram precisas várias tentativas para conseguir fotos decentes.
Conclusion: A unique garment, not discrete by all means but even so a little more discrete than the LaRedoute original! On one hand, taking it to Paris would have been great but if I did, I wouldn’t be showing you the inside pocket and the triangular bound buttonholes, that’s for sure! I am very pleased with the way this project turned out in the end and I think waiting a few days before finishing it properly was well worth it. There was an exhibit on Christian Lacroix starting a few days after I left Paris… Just imagine how it would have been if I’d be able to visit the exhibit wearing my trenchcoat! Unfortunately delaying my trip for a few days was out of the question so no Christian Lacroix exhibit and no red trench in Paris…
This fabric doesn’t photograph well at all and took me a lot of tries to get some decent pictures (the first pictures at the window are the ones more true to the real color of the trenchcoat).



Espero que tenham gostado! Eu adoro esta gabardina! Até breve!
I hope you all like this trenchcoat! I love it! See you soon!

50 comments:

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany ~ the trench is beautiful! I love how you used the details you liked to make the trench your own Tany Original! As always thanks for all of the sewing information contained in the post. It is truly beautiful.

Adrienne said...

Tany this is just GORGEOUS!!!!!!! I love the embroidery that you added to the lining!! I love the triangle bound button holes!! Love the pleated hem band! Ok I just love the entire masterpiece! Another fantastic job!! You attention to detail is just amazing.

Vicki W said...

Tany, it's just beautiful! I love the embroidery detail on the inside and the triangle buttonholes. I've made those a couple of times and always like them. Everything about your trench is perfect.

Isabelle said...

Oh Tany... this is breathtaking! My jaw dropped on seeing the first pictures, and then it dropped lower and lower on reading about and seeing each *perfect* and amazing detail!! This is definitely one of the 5 most stunning and haute couture garments I have ever seen. Everything is simply amazing!! I wish I could have seen it in person but you were right - you couldn't botch the finishing details! Never mind, I'll see it next time we meet, right? :)

BIG hugs and a thousand congratulations from a dready, rainy Paris! but you've just added a wonderful touch of colour to my day :) thank you my friend! :)
((((Tany))))

Erica B. said...

Tany, that coat is fabulous! I love all of the detail you added. I will be adding that embroidery detail to the back pleating of jackets... I love that!

Audrey said...

Tany querida o que posso dizer é que ficou espetacular lindíssima, a cor esuberante há.... se você morasse pertinho de mim seria sua cliente de olhos vendados.
Beijos,
Audrey

KayB said...

oh...wow....wow...wow.... I'm speechless, 'cause it's absolutely gorgeous, every little single detail!

Els said...

Tany your new raincoat is again a gorgeous made garment.

Shannon said...

This coat is exquisite! The colour, the design, the details, everything is just sublime!!

rosanne said...

Tany, your coat is AMAZING! You are an inspiration, from your attention to detail to the skill in your execution. I love that trench!

Summerset said...

Well! I certainly have my work cut out for me! If my trench turns out as half as beautiful as yours, I'll be thrilled. Thank you for all the extra photographs - it is exactly what I pictured.

paco peralta said...

Tany.- Enhorabuena, te quedó una prenda fabulosa y bien "sofisticada". Me gustaria preguntarte si los moldes de la revista "PATRONES", son correctos. Yo he sacado algún patrón de esta revista y no tuve buenos resultados. Dime tu opinión. Yo veo que el resultado de tu gabardina es bueno. Saludos desde Barcelona. Paco.

Nancy K said...

Fabulous! What a treat to see the wonderful details.

Sylvie said...

Hello Tany,

i've been reading your blog for a fairly long time...

This trenchcoat is an extraordinary piece for your wardrobe with beautiful details.

Congratulations, you did a great work!

Greatings from Germany,
Sylvie

Vicki said...

Oh Tany!!!! I thought I would just have a quick look while having my coffee before going off to work. Ha! This will take all day - to drool over your magnificent work. It is absolutely beautiful. You were right to not rush it for Paris. But of course you need to go to Paris again! Or Melbourne - Australia's fashion capital. I will be back later to really look in depth.

Sigrid said...

GORGEOUS. You make such beautiful clothes with all those special details. Thank you for all those detailed pictures. It's a level of sewing to strive for. It's hard to believe you're not a professional seamstress.

Sew4Fun said...

Oh Tany, your trench is divine! A true designer original. A Tany original. :) I love the embroidery and triangular bound buttonholes. I've been wanting to try them for years but never found the right project. Impeccible work!

christina said...

Absolutely stunning! You must feel so good when you wear this amazing coat. Thanks for all the detail pics.

Lori said...

Tany, this is so spectacular. I love the embroidery on the lining, the buttonholes, the beautiful lining. I could go on, I really love it all. Thanks again for all the pictures and sewing information you provide.

Robin said...

Just amazing. Every detail is so exquisite. But I think sleeves are the most impressive to me! How did you ease that fabric in? I have found that very difficult to ease such unforgiving fabric on a sleeve head.
Beautiful coat all around. I hope you enjoy wearing this for many years to come.

May said...

Fabulous!! Just fabulous! I agree with you that the Patrones version is really nice with just the right amount of frills. Congratulations!!

Cidell said...

There are just not words. I am gobsmacked. This is so stunning I cannot speak.

Tuesday said...

Oh my...I really just am awestruck by this one!!! (BTW, I'm oh so sorry I've been missing/lurking and not commenting lately :( I feel just terrible about it *sigh*...I've been reading, just not commenting...)

Anyhow, back to the gushing over this trenchcoat...I think the attention to detail is, as usual, IMPECCABLE...LOVE It :D

Katrin said...

Hello Tany,

what a beautiful, so haute-couture trench. I like yours much more than the original. I love the embroidery stitches at the lining and will try this also. I am so impressed of the work you are doing.

Hugs,
Katrin

madhatter said...

amazing!
i lovelovelove the coat, and your version is SO much nicer than the "original"!
you're one of my heroes ^-^

Mamã Martinho said...

Tany,

A Gabardine ficou um show e assenta-te muito bem! Tal como te tinha dito gostei mais do teu modelo do que o que saiu da LaRedoute. A cor e o tecido são muito giros e combinam bem com o modelo, agora o que adorei mesmo foram as casas dos botões, são um espetáculo.

Bjs

Mónica

macati said...

está linda e adoro todos os detalhes... qd eu eu vir esta gabardine na rua, podes ter a certeza que vou ter contigo e quero ver tudo ao vivo... se estiver a chover, entramos na pastelaria mais próxima, bebemos um chá ou chocolate quente e mostras-me na mesma!
:)
bjnh

LauraLo said...

Dear Tany, this is amazing! Truly couture work. What can I tell you: love the design, love the fabric, love the colour, love the way it looks on you. And I love all those exquisite details: decorative stitching, the triangular bound buttonholes, the ruffle, the inside pocket. Well, everything I guess :)

P. S. I'm writing you an email this afternoon

Berry said...

simply wow, AMAZING!

Mary Beth said...

Tany, this is fabulous! I would have been so tempted to finish it off for Paris and I am so glad you didn't take the shortcut way. The interior pocket and triangular buttonholes send it over the top! Congratulations! Now I'm going to go back and read more closely :)

Lisa Laree said...

Wow, wow and wow...

I'm in awe, not only of the fabulous finished coat, but at your self-restraint in not omitting those fine details so you could wear it in Paris. What an inspiration!!

Thanks

Mimi said...

it's wonderful, what a fantastic job and great workmanship.

How can I order the patrones magazine? I tried looking online but I cant understand the website, I speak and read spanish but the website is not easy to follow.

Sismada said...

Perfeito!!!!!!!!
Lindissima !!!!
Muito Bem mesmo, es perfeita em tudo o que fazes!
Beijinho

marty said...

Truly a Tany original that looks better than the Christian LeCroix original. Your attention to details sends it over the top. Congratulations on another exquisite garment.

Dami said...

beee-you-tee-fullllll!

LMH said...

Tany,

It's truly wonderful! I have that Patrones too, but I never connected that photo with what what you were making. (In fact, I thought the pattern was for a dress.??) I'm sorry you couldn't wear it in Paris, but you were right to wait so you could finish it properly It was obviously well worth it. Next time you go, though, right?

Theresa said...

Beautiful work-truly inspiring. Your detailed posts regarding construction are appreciated. I want my own red trench-one day I will make one. A girl would be on top of the world in such a coat.

rosa said...

Espetacular Tany!!!
eu tambem adorei a garbardina,o modelo é lindissimo.
eu lembro me ha uns anos de usar aquelas gabardinas inteiras até aos pés,jesusssss!!!!
agora vejo como eram horriveisssss!
a cor linda.sabes ha 3 anos atras o vermelho era uma cor que ñ me encantava,agora sou fa!!
vaipes!!!
um feliz dia pra ti.obg pelos links
agurrrr besos.

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas! Ainda bem que gostaram!
Thank you all! I'm glad you liked this trenchcoat!

Isabelle: My dear friend, your words always make me smile and make my day a little better! Thank you! ANd I promise I will wear this trenchcoat the next time we meet! (((HUGS)))

Rosanne and Sylvie: Thank you! I'm always happy to welcome new commenters!

Summerset: Thank you! I believe your version will be *at least* equally beautiful! I can't wait to see it made by you!

Paco: ¡Mi querido amigo, muchas gracias por tu comentario siempre tan amable! He respondido a tu pregunta en tu blog. No estoy muy experimentada con estos moldes de Patrones y creo que los moldes de Burda están mejor dibujados. Lo ay encontrado algunos problemas como el hombro en la espalda que no queda perfecto y también la colocación des ojales. ¡Mas nada que no pueda resolverse! ¡Saludos e un abrazo!

Robin: Thanks! I was very careful when setting in the sleeves: first I measured the armcye and the sleeve cap and decided I didn't need to alter the pattern (sometimes I take some height off from the sleeve cap); then I made two rows of loose stitches, one on each side of the stitching line, between the ease notches. I pinned the sleeve to the armcye and hand basted it in place (keeping. I stitched it very carefully (slowly), removing the pins as I go.

Tuesday: Thanks! I'm glad to have you back!

Macati: Obrigada, linda! Terei todo o gosto! ;o)

Mimi: Thanks! I am trying to get a subscripton for myself (I've written several emails to Hymsa asking for subscription information and had no response until now). Since they change editors Iam unable to find the Patrones on sale here in POrtugal and the only way I can get it is through the German Ebay or through a friend in Spain. They used to manage subscriptions in the US but they were terrible expensive (so I've heard). I don't know if they have maintained the subscriptions after the Editor company changed though.

Rosa Para mim o vermelho foi sempre uma cor favorita, desde pequenina! Beijinhos!

Once again, THANK YOU SO MUCH for your comments!

Anonymous said...

This trench coat is absolutely amazing. This is high end fashion, wonderful. You should be so proud of yourself. I am green with envy! :-)

Emily said...

Oh. My. God. It's beautiful, Tany! Congratulations on a job well done - just perfect. Love it.

Anonymous said...

progress on red hand knit sweater-jacket??! waiting for it!

Anynha Crochê said...

Olá Amiga.
Lindo parabens.
Vim desejar a vc um lindo feriado
E um maravilhoso fim de semana
É muito difícil encontrar um bom amigo, mais difícil ainda deixá-lo e impossível esquecê-lo.
Bjuss!!!

Suzanne said...

Tany,
this coat is simply beautiful, you are an artist. It is almost too precious to wear it...
Best regards
Suzanne

Oficina das Linhas said...

Oh Tany, que gabardina linda, linda, linda...Adoro os folhos, a cor, tudo, tudo.

Agora tens que ir novamente a Paris passear a gabardina e deixar as francesas todas roídas de inveja!

Beijinhos,
Carmen

Sheila said...

All I can say is FANTABULOUS!!!

Mirela said...

This is the most beautiful coat I have ever seen!

Wings said...

It is lovely! congratulations on this project. could you let me know on which issue the pattern came in? thanks!

Greetings from California!
-Karla

Tany said...

Karla: Thank you and welcome to Couture rt Tricot! The Patrones issue is the n251, "Collection Fiesta" from December 2006.

susana said...

adorei... sou apaixonada por gabardines e casacos. Adoro a atenção dada ao pormenor. Lindo o teu trabalho. Tu vendes?
Um beijinho
su