Thursday, May 31, 2007

Casaco Burda em croché: em execução – Burda crochet jacket: ongoing

Um pequeno intervalo na costura do vestido só para vos mostrar o estado do casaco de croché: este casaco faz-se num instante. Como já vos tinha dito, agulhas de 5.5mm são demasiado grandes para este projecto; a Katrin sugeriu as agulhas de 4mm mas neste fio o resultado não foi muito animador; resolvi então tentar a sorte com agulhas nº 4.5 e, para já, parece estar a correr bem, embora tenha a certeza que o casaco não vai ficar tão justo como no modelo original. As cores estão mais vivas que na realidade para facilitar a visualização dos pontos empregues e as pontas dos fios ainda têm de ser rematadas.
I'm making a short break from sewing the dress just to show you my progress on the Burda crochet jacket: this jacket is very quick to pull through. As I mentioned before, 5.5mm hooks are just too much for this jacket; Katrin commented that her choice would be 4.0mm but I tried this and the result wasn’t good for this yarn, so I’m taking my chances with 4.5mm hooks instead; so far so good though I can see that this jacket won’t be as close fitting as the BWOF original. Colors are brightened so you can distinguish the stitch detail better; the loose ends are yet to be finished.

As costas:
The back:
O motivo A; também vai ser preciso fazer este motivo incompleto (motivo B), como verão a seguir:
Motif A; you will have to crochet this as an incomplete motif too (referred to as motif B), as you'll see next:
Depois de fazer todos os motivos A, inclusivamente dois incompletos (motivos B), juntam-se todos através de pequenas flores crochetadas a vermelho para formar uma frente junta com a cabeça da manga:
After crocheting all the motifs (A and B), they are joined by little crocheted flowers (in red), forming the all-in-on front and sleeve head:

Da cabeça da manga apanham-se as malhas para a manga que são crochetadas no ponto igual ao das costas e podem ver como esta peça encaixa depois nas costas:
From the sleeve head on, the rest of the sleeve is crocheted using the same stitch as for the back; you can see how all this comes together:
O detalhe do punho:
The cuff detail:
E mais ou menos como vai ficar:
This is close to how it will look like:
Depois de fazer a outra frente e manga ainda tenho que fazer uma barra parecida com o trabalhado dos punhos em torno do decote e orlas da frente, além dos tirantes, mas isso fica para a próxima!
Next I must crochet the other front & sleeve and also a narrow band that goes around the neckline and along the front and back edges. The stitch is very similar to what I've done for the cuffs; oh, and I must crochet the ties too, but that will have to wait now!

Até breve!
See you soon!


23 comments:

Laura said...

It looks great, Tany! I've had my eye on that cardigan ever since I saw that Burda. I must ask my mother to make it for me!
LauraLo

KayB said...

I was eyeing this for some time now but I'm not quite sure, if it will wear comfortably. From the photo you can see that it "hangs" from the shoulder of the model and since I have very narrow shoulders I doubt the cardi won't stay put. Another point is, that I think that the weight of the sleeves with the help of gravity will pull it even further down.
I'm really looking forward to see it finished and hear how this cardi stands the "reality test".

Adrienne said...

This is very beautiful Tany!

Dami said...

hi tany, long time lurker, first time poster. great stuff you've constructed recently. i had a question about thread tracing as you're the only one i've seen do this nicely. do you trace the pattern lines first with carbon paper and then baste? or do you fold back the pattern and baste right under the crease line? or do you just baste around your cutting as the patterns you use have no seam allowances included? how would you thread trace if your pattern had seam allowances included? thanks in advance!

dawn said...

Oh, my, that is going to look lovely on you. Another really special piece for your wardrobe.

Rita said...

Oi, Tany! Que lindo! Você é uma artista! Eu acompanho o seu blog todos os dias. Você está cadastrada no Orkut? Um grande abraço!

madhatter said...

looks great so far!
i didn't know that the yarn won't match a 4.0 hook, i may have went for other yarn as well. still, 4.5 seems okay, and as long as it fits like it should it's wonderful. who cares about what a magazine says? *gg*
you're speedy progressing again. whew!!

Tany said...

KayB: I share your concerns… Plus, this yarn is a heavy one… I hope all is well in the end though, we’ll see soon enough!

Dami: Welcome to Couture et Tricot! I do not use carbon paper on the fashion fabric, but I use it to trace out the muslin; for thread tracing I use something very similar to tailor tacks when I’m tracing on double layer of fabric… Basically I make long running stitches but I leave a loop of thread on the top instead of pulling the thread taut; after doing this on all the outlines, I unpin the pattern, pull the two layers apart and cut the threads in between, leaving the cut threads in place to serve as a guide to do the final thread tracing; usually I use the same needle holes for the final thread tracing, removing the little pieces of basting thread as I go. If I’m tracing a single layer of fabric I can skip the tailor tacks and just thread trace along the outlines. Of course, this works only if you don’t have seam allowances traced on the pattern; If you do, I guess you would have to make little cuts (as long as your basting stitch length) along the outlines; this way you can unpin the pattern latter without having it caught by the tailor tucks. Sometimes I do this when I’m thread tracing darts (sometimes I clip/cut the darts out of the pattern, it’s easier than making the little cuts on the outline). I hope this helps!

Rita: Oi, obrigada pelo seu comentário! Se é a primeira vez que você comenta, então seja muito bem-vinda ao Couture et Tricot ! Não sou cadastrada no Orkut mas sou no hi5, vc conhece? Um grande abraço para você também!

Katrin (Madhatter): I guess I could use a 4.0 hook but the result would be a very stiff jacket… When I bought the yarn I asked for something to go with 5.5mm hooks; it was only later when I did the first swatch that I found out that 5.5mm would be far too much for this model… I hope it will turn out well, if not I will take it apart and use the yarn for another project…

Adrienne and Dawn: Thank you!

Tina said...

esta a ficar lindo! Vai ficar muito bem em conjunto com o tecido que mostras-te anteriormente!!
ès uma artista multifacetada!!

bjnhs

Dami said...

thanks! i'll let you know how it goes =)

Tini said...

I like the colour combi but as Karina, I do have sloped shoulders and I already fight with Elspeth the whole day... I hope it will turn out as you like it to be!
Your parcel will be out this weekend!

Marji said...

I'm really liking the way that is coming out - nice color contrast and will be v cute on you.
Re the thread tracing - only recently have I started cutting the 5/8" seam allowances OFF my American Co patterns, before doing alterations, before tracing. It makes much more a difference than I could have imagined. It may be convenient to have the seam allowances already added, however I think that fit and exactness is compromised.
Thread tracing is also best accomplished when seam allowances have been cut off.

Anonymous said...

"Tricot Magique"...now that really sums up your blog for me Tany! xxoo
Phyllis

Mamã Martinho said...

O casaco está a ficar o máximo! Muito giro sem duvida!Agora toca a dar ao dedo para o terminar!

Bjs

Mónica

Isabelle said...

Dear Tany, this is beautiful! I'm much impressed.

Summerset said...

Neat - I was curious about this one, as I liked the style, but the pictures didn't show the motifs clearly. Can't wait to see the finished product!

Audrey said...

Oi amiga, como tudo em que você põe a mão fica lindo este seu casaco não ficara diferente estou anciosa mas já sei o resultado ficará lindão. Te desejo um ótimo final de semana.
Bjs

mirela said...

Oh my god! Your blog is amazing!

And this top is what I have in plan as my first crocheting project...i hope I can make it.

Thanks so much for explaining how to place all the pieces together in this puzzle!

Tany said...

Hi Mirela! Thank you for your visit and welcome to Couture et Tricot! I will be visiting you often too and I'm so glad to have found your blog!

Sônia Maria said...

Olá amiga!
Adorei seu blog.
Tenho um blog de crochet. Passe por lá quando puder.
Vc vai estar no meu blogroll.
Abraços com carinho,
Sônia Maria
www.falandodecrochet.blogspot.com

Tany said...

Sônia Maria: Olá e muito bem-vinda ao Couture et Tricot! Obrigada pela sua tenção e simpatia! Beijinhos!

Emilly said...

Oi Tany =)

Moça, que dicas, hein?!

Queria saber se há possibilidades de você me passar umas dicas sobre como fazer um vestido tubinho.
Tipo, melhores tipo de tecido etc.

E, como fazer vestidos com grandes decotes atrás?! Um vestido leve mais não muito solto. Tímido na frente e bem ousado atrás e meio futurista!
Qual seria o melhor tecido também?
E as especificidades?

Aguardo sua resposta.

Obrigada,
Emilly

Tany said...

Oi, Emilly!
Quanto às suas questões, bem, na costura não tem verdades absolutas e o tecido certo depende muito do modelo concreto. Vc pode ver alguns exemplos de vestidos aqui no meu blog (veja as etiquetas no sidebar, pois tem vários). Eu costumo seguir algumas regras: se o vestido tem um feitio ousado e complicado, prefiro tecidos lisos; se for um corte simples, um bonito estampado fica muito bem; outro factor a ter em conta é o cair do vestido; se vc pretender algo fluído, um corte em viés e tecidos muito leves como seda, resultam melhor. Se pretender um corte estruturado, com forma, então opte por tecidos com alguma consistência!