Saturday, May 26, 2007

Blusa de Organza: concluída - Organza Blouse: finished

Terminada hoje às 03:00am; fotos tiradas depois de a usar durante a manhã (ok, dei-lhe uma passagem a ferro muito rápida quando regressei a casa!):
Finished today at 03:00am; pictures were taken after wearing the blouse for the entire morning (ok, I gave it a quick press when I came back home!):


Modelo: Burda Internacional 01/1996 modelo 923: blusa de organza com pinças verticais na cintura e horizontais no peito, colarinho de bandas e punhos originais que tanto podem ser usados para trás ou caídos.
Model: Burda International 01/1996 model 923: organza blouse with vertical darts shaping the waist and horizontal chest darts, collar with bands and dramatic cuffs that can be worn turned upwards.

Ver a apresentação do projecto e o material aqui.
See project presentation and notions here.
Esquema/Linedrawing:
Tamanhos: 36-44, cortei o 40.
Sizes: European 36-34, I traced a 40.

Material/Notions:
-Organza de seda vermelha: 3.5m (1.10m de largura)
-Red silk organza: 3.5m (1.10 wide)
-10 botões pequenos
-10 small buttons
-Linha Alterfil S 120 vermelha
-Alterfil thread S 120 in red
-Linha de bordar à máquina vermelha
-Thin embroidery red thread

Modificações ao modelo original / Alterations to the original model:
Acrescentei aplicações de tubinhos de organza nas mangas e nos ombros na forma de redemoinhos. Também pespontei as vistas, os punhos e a gola, usando na agulha fio de bordar brilhante.
I added self fabric bias tubing appliqué swirls to the sleeves, chest and shoulders. Facings, cuffs and collar were topstitched using thin embroidery thread on the needle.

Referências / References:
All About Silk: A Fabric Dictionary & Swatchbook (Fabric Reference Series, Volume 1)
Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide (Creative Machine Arts)

Técnicas especiais / Special techniques:

Pinças de uma só linha – Single thread darts

Tubinhos de vies – bias tubing

Aplicação dos tubos de viés – applying bias tubing

Costuras francesas – French seams

Acabamento do decote com tira de viés – Finishing the neck edges using self-fabric bias strips

Conclusão: Um projecto aliciante, uma experiência de aprendizagem excelente na qual contei com a preciosa ajuda da Els que me apontou na direcção certa a seguir. Trabalhar com organza de seda é fantástico, nunca mais usarei organza sintética nas roupas que faço! Também tive a oportunidade de experimentar uma série de técnicas novas. Fiquei bastante satisfeita com o resultado final da blusa e usei-a hoje na cerimónia onde recebi o diploma de conclusão do Curso de Engenharia Electrónica de Telecomunicações (que concluí no ano passado; na minha universidade os diplomas são entregues passado um ano). Penso que esta blusa ilustra bem o meu esforço e a consequente recompensa em ter acabado o curso, ficando para sempre ligada a este momento tão importante na minha vida.
Conclusion: This was a challenging project, a great learning experience; I owe a great lot to Els for helping me and pointing me in the right direction. Handling silk organza has been great! I will never use synthetic organza again for making garments, now I know better, thanks to Els. I am quite pleased with the final outcome of this blouse: I wore it today at my Graduation Ceremony where I received the diploma for finishing the Electronic and Telecommunications Engineering degree (I concluded my studies last year but the Aveiro University delivers the graduate diplomas only after one year of graduation). I think this blouse is perfect for illustrating my effort to improve myself in life, as in sewing.

Mais alguns detalhes:
A few more details:


Os punhos: The cuffs:


O debruado das costuras das cavas usando tiras de viés do tecido da blusa:
The armhole binding using self-fabric bias strips:

A costura é fechada com pontos à mão.
The armhole seam binding is handstitched.
Detalhe da aplicação dos tubinhos no peito e ombros:
Bias tubing detail on shoulders & chest:
O acabamento pespontado das vistas:
Topstitched facings:
As casas de botão:
The buttonholes:
Por último, o meu sentido Obrigada a todas as que me acompanharam em mais uma aventura de costura! A vossa presença e carinho são muito valiosos para mim. Um grande abraço à Diva Els!
For last, a BIG THANK YOU to all of you who have been following this sewing adventure! Your presence and support are very valuable to me. A big hug to Diva Els!

Vemo-nos em breve com outro projecto em mente!
See you soon with another sewing project in mind!

38 comments:

Shannon said...

Your blouse is amazing - excellent work as usual!

Kathleen C. said...

Beautiful! Absolutely fabulous work! And thank *you* for sharing your sewing adventure with us.

Erica B. said...

Tany, that blouse is outstanding! Everything you make looks as if it came out of a French Couture house!

Adrienne said...

Tany, BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!

Lori said...

Tany, your blouse is stunning. I agree with Erica, your work is couture. Also, thanks for your blog and all the sewing information, I really appreciate it.

Els said...

Tany thanks for the compliments and the big hug.
Congratulations on finishing your blouse on time for the graduation today.
Your efforts and persisting paid off to transform a simple Burda pattern into a fabulous blouse.

KayB said...

Thanks Tany for taking us all on this personal journey of yours making this (again) outstanding piece. Very good craftmanship, I really like it! What's next?... I can't wait :)

Summerset said...

Congrats on the blouse and diploma! The blouse is gorgeous! I agree - completely appropriate as you *have* bettered yourself in more ways than one!

Vicki said...

Tany, it is simply stunning! Absolutely beautiful work. I know I will be coming back here to copy some of your great tutorials.

Mary Beth said...

Tany! You added the swirls??? Oh my goodness, it's an incredible blouse. Stand up and take an extra bow, sewing through your life's achievements makes it so special, too. Congrats on your graduation and on your new fabo incredible blouse!!!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - it is an awesomely beautiful blouse. Thanks for sharing all of the steps during its construction. It is simply stunning!

Isabelle said...

It is so beautiful, Tany!! Congratulations on completing your gorgeous blouse with such care! Hugs from Paris! :)

Tini said...

Amazing! I learn so much just by reading your blog! Your work is excellent as usual! I bet you had the most incredible outfit at this ceremony (congrats to that too!)

Tany said...

Thank you all for the compliments and your visit!

Kathleen C.: Thank you! I believe it is the first time that you comment at C.T; if so, be very welcome to Couture et Tricot!

cidell said...

Oh. Wow. That's just stunning. Stunning! I want to show my non sewing friends so they see what's possible to make at home, but then they may ask when I'll start making things like this! Wow.

Audrey said...

Olá Tany meus parabéns ficou linda sua blusa.
Beijos

stacy said...

It is so beautiful - I think this may be my favorite thing I've seen you make!

red_swirl/ginevra said...

Well done on the blouse and very, very well done on your degree!

dawn said...

Oooooo-eeeee! Fantastic! It's breathtaking, and especially on you. what wonderful finishing work on the cuffs, collar and buttonholes! Congrats on both the blouse and your diploma!

p.s. Imagine how much it would cost in a fancy boutique to buy something like that....

scy said...

Dear Tany, your blouse is so beautiful. Thanks for sharing.

Debbie Cook said...

Absolutely gorgeous! The details are just stunning.

Chuana said...

Fiquei mesmo espantada com o resultado! Adorei as alterações que fez nas mangas, os tubinhos fazem-na ainda mais bonita! Também adorei a cor, esse vermelho forte.
Já agora os parabéns pelo diploma!

Bjx
Chuana :)

nowaks nähkästchen said...

Congrats! A perfect blouse for the occasion! I really admire your wonderful work AND how you manage to blog even in two languages.

rosa said...

uhauuuuuu!ficou linda esse detalhe das espirais ficou bem original,mas deve ter dado um tbl,espetacular,fica te bem bjs.

christina said...

The blouse is just beaufiful. Looks very expensive!

Alexia said...

Ficou linda a tua blusa, Tany! Adoro as espirais! O que aconteceu à Burda Internacional? Deixou de ser publicada porquê? Guardei muitos números da minha mãe porque eram autênticas referências.

Tany said...

Nowaks: Thanks! I decided to blog in two languages because I wanted to keep in touch with the large English spoken sewing community and spread the word about sewing here in Portugal too!

Alexia: Obrigada! Não sei o que aconteceu à Burda Internacional, mas deixou de ser publicada mesmo na Alemanha... É uma pena pois era realmente a minha revista de moldes favorita. Tenho todas as que consegui comprar. Ainda hoje há muitos modelos que voltaria ou gostaria de fazer dessas revistas.

Obrigada a todas! Thank you all!

Tany said...

Debbie: Welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Tina said...

Parabens, ficou maravilhosa!!!

Como eu já te disse não sei costurar mas um dia heide aventurar me, este fim de semana fiz um avental para a minha filha usar numa peça de teatro na escola, fiz com um pano da loiça e costurei tudo á mão!!! Mas um dia destes vou aprender!!

Desejos de uma optima semana!

Filomena said...

Ena, então são parabéns a dobrar!!

Mamã Martinho said...

Como seria de esperar o camisola ficou bem melhor do que imeginava! Nunca me passou pela ideia de que os tubos não fossem na camisola toda, acho que porque na que fizes-te anteriormente era por todo. Bem tu pelo menos já recebes-te o diploma, eu ainda não, lolol!!!! Tenho-o lá á espera na secretaria para o ir buscar!!!!

Bjs

Mónica

Evenstar said...

tany, i love the details,where do you get the time girl!!
now you have gone and done it... i am so inspired now! Great work

Abi said...

Just Sensational.Congratulations on your degree.

Crystal said...

That is AMAZING! Wow! But your projects always are. Congrats on the degree, too!! :-D

Linda said...

Your blouse is stunning. I have enjoyed reading all about it here. Thank you again for posting in english. I love it that you do that so that we can talk sewing "across the pond".

Katrin said...

Tany,

I was offline a few days so I just read your post today...
The blouse is really gorgeous and looks good on you!
I am looking forward to your new projects!

Greets,
Katrin

Linda said...

Bonita! What a gorgeous blouse. I am catching up on my blog reading and so glad to see your finished blouse. Again you do excellent work! Very, very pretty.

Marie-Noëlle said...

WOW I had not seen this blouse yet it is completely astounding !!!. You've done such a tremendous amount of work on it. It's truly heirloom, I bet you'll keep it for the rest of your life.