Sunday, May 13, 2007

Tubos de viés - Bias tubes

Hoje vou mostrar-vos como fiz os tubinhos com tiras de organza cortadas em viés. Cortei 10 tiras com cerca de 4cm de largura e 150cm de comprimento:
Today I will show you how I made the bias tubes for the organza blouse. I cut 10 bias strips 4cm wide and 150cm long:
Dobram-se as tiras ao meio no sentido do comprimento e prendem-se com alfinetes, que vão sendo retirados à medida que se cose na máquina. Notem que a dobra fica para o lado de dentro da máquina, permitindo assim controlar a largura do tubo. A tira deve ser esticada gentilmente à medida que se cose para o tubinho não ficar encorrilhado depois de virado:
The bias strips are folded lengthwise and pined; when sewing, pins are removed before reaching the feed dogs. Note that the fold is on the right side, this way it's easier to control the tube width and keep it even. The strip should be gently pulled (stretched) while stitching.
Na primeira experiência que fiz virei o tubinho para o direito com os valores de costura inteiros; em tecidos moles isto resulta bem pois os valores de costura “enchem” o tubinho, no entanto, no caso da organza que é um tecido rijo, os valores de costura deformam a forma do tubo dando-lhe um aspecto imperfeito. Resolvi então aparar os valores de costura para cerca de 2mm:
On my first experiment I turned the tube to the right side leaving SAs as is; this would work if I was using a soft fabric instead and the SAs would fill the tube without altering its rounded shape. Using silk organza this method produces an irregular tube because the organza is stiff and the enclosed SAs alter the shape of the tube, making it irregular. What I did was trimming the SAs to 2mm instead:
Para virar o tubinho usei uma agulha de tricô (sim, a maior parte das minhas agulhas de tricô têm barbela!) – notem a pequena laçada nas pontas da linha:
To turn the bias tube to the right side I used a knitting needle (yes, most of my knitting needles have hooks!) – note the little lace on the thread ends:
Depois de virado, enrolei o tubinho e dei-lhe uns esguichos de vapor com o ferro, sem o encostar; isto faz com que o tubinho fique mais uniforme. O aspecto final é um tubo transparente, perfeitamente uniforme e flexível:
After turning the tube right side out I wound it up and gave it a steam blast, keeping the iron 2cm away from the bias tube. The final result is a neat, uniform, hollow and flexible bias tube:
Agora é preciso fechar os extremos dos tubos; na primeira versão da blusa, virei os extremos para dentro do tubo e fechei com uns pontos à mão; desta vez vou usar uma dica da Diva Els, uma solução que além de produzir um resultado perfeito, demora menos tempo a fazer.
Now I need to finish the tube ends; on my first version of this blouse I turned a little amount of fabric inside and finished the ends by hand with small stitches; this time I'm using a sewing tip by Diva Els; this technique produces perfect results in less time.

Com a ajuda de uma pinça dobram-se os extremos para dentro:
Using tweezers I turned a little amount of fabric to the inside of the tube:
Depois coloca-se um quadradinho pequenino daquela entretela para fazer bainhas (que cola dos dois lados) na entrada do tubo:
Then I cut a tiny rectangle from fusing hem tape (it fuses on both sides) and place it inside the bias tube:
Depois de passar a ponta a ferro, a entrada fica colada e o resultado está à vista:
The tube end is pressed and the fusing tape melds the fabric, closing the tube permanently; see the final result:
Aqui têm, dez tubinhos de cerca de 1,5m cada um, preparados para serem cosidos à mão às peças da blusa!
Here you are, ten 1,5m long bias tubes, ready to be handstitched to the blouse!
Deixo-vos ainda com algumas inspirações de outros blogs que ilustram o uso de tubinhos em viés; a primeira vem do blog da Sharon; trata-se de um magnífico vestido de cocktail dos anos 50.
I leave you with two sources of inspiration regarding bias tubing appliqué: the first is a gorgeous vintage 50’ era cocktail dress displayed on Sharon’s blog.

Nos comentários deste post também descobri um link para o blog Couture Details; se procurarem mais abaixo encontram uma saia onde são aplicados tubinhos para produzir o desenho de um nó céltico! Lindo!
In the comment area of Sharon's post I also found a link to the Couture Details blog; if you scroll down you'll find a beautiful skirt where bias tube applique is used to produce the design of Celtic knots! Just beautiful!

Espero que tenham tido um bom fim-de-semana! Em muitos países hoje comemora-se o dia da Mãe pelo que desejo um óptimo dia a todas as Mães que visitam este blog e que hoje comemoram o seu dia! Em Portugal comemorámos no dia 6 de Maio (o primeiro Domingo de Maio). Fiquem bem!
I hope you had a great weekend! In many countries today is Mothers Day celebration so I'm wishing a happy day to all the Mothers visiting this blog who celebrate this Day! In Portugal, Mothers Day was celebrated on the 6th of May (the first Sunday of May). Be well!


18 comments:

Els said...

Hi Tany, your bias tubes came out great. I never knew that knitting needles had a hook in Portugal. A knitting needle is longer in length than a loop turner so it is very useful to turn long tubes. I am looking forward to see your new silk organza blouse.

Summerset said...

Gorgeous! What a beauty this will be!

I have one of those type of needles - it's used for a special afghan stitch which is sort of a cross between crocheting and knitting. I've done it before, but it's been ages.

You need what I call a "tube turner thingy". I'm sure there's a name for it, as I just bought one, but it looks like a latch hook, except it's got a really long shaft and very tiny hook to lock onto the end of whatever you're going to turn. If you want, I'll send you one with the fabric!

Sharon said...

Hi Tany! I'm so glad you posted photos on how to do the bias tubes. I will bookmark this post for when I am ready to try making mine. Your silk organza blouse is going to be beautiful!

Katrin said...

Hello Tany,

you´ve done a great job with the tubes. This blouse is going to look gorgeous!
And thanks a lot for the detailed pictures of the 1-thread seam for sheer fabrics. I have seen it in a magazine, but could not find it again.

Dawn said...

Don't you just love that pile of bias tubing? It looks like candy....those skinny red licorice bunches that you can get at the movies. I'd prefer the organza variety though.

filomena said...

Que perfeição, vão ficar liiiindos na tua blusa ;o)

red_swirl/ginevra said...

Thank you for the detailed photos and explanations! I'm finding watching you make clothes really interesting ... hopefully one day I'll be confident enough to try out some of your more complicated techniques;)

Lola said...

Is there a mail order company in Portugal that will ship to US? I'd love to have some of those knitting needles - I've wanted to try that method ever since I saw the videos on YouTube demonstrating cast on, purl and knit using these needles.

Adrienne " A little dramatic at times" said...

Wow, I've not seen needles like those! Great tutorial as usual!

Isabelle said...

That is very impressive, Tany!
I would love it if you could share more details at turning tubes inside out. I am absolutely terrible at that.
Hope you're having a lovely day! :)

rosa said...

bem da ca um trabalho esses tubinhos oh paciencia,qd tinha que os fazer para casas de botão meu Deus,mas fica muito bonito bjs.

toya said...

O boy, I can't even imagine how long it took you get get all those tubes done,, incredible, OMG

Mamã Martinho said...

Que optima dica!!! Obrigada por a partilhares!

Bjs

Mónica

Abi said...

Great work.Another for the sewing journal.Thanks Tany

Shannon said...

I can't wait to see what you do with those amazing bias tubes!!

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Alex Macklin said...

Another way to turn your tube is as follows. Before sewing the tube seam, pull your bobbin thread and needle thread out of the machine until it is a few inches longer than the tube then start to stitch. Stitch about 1 inch only, then do a tie stitch. Remove tube from machine then repeat the above steps. Pull out the threads from bobbin and machine but this time, you continue to sew to the end of the tube. Using a darning needle, pass the long threads through the tube then turn it inside out. Great for very fine work. Enjoy

Tany said...

Thank you Alex, that's a fabulous tip!