Friday, April 13, 2007

A minha colecção de moldes da Vogue – My Vogue pattern collection

Enquanto ainda estou a terminar os bolsos da gabardina, resolvi mostrar-vos a minha colecção de moldes Vogue. Tenho comprado alguns moldes de cada vez que o site oferece promoções.
I'm still finishing the pockets for the trench coat and I though I could show you my Vogue Patterns collection in the meanwhile. I've been buying some Vogue patterns each time there is a sale on their site.

Os moldes das companhias Americanas de moldes há muito que me intrigam e ando há algum tempo para experimentar um destes moldes. Como já disse estou muito habituada aos moldes Burda, os quais conheço bem; normalmente poucas ou nenhumas alterações tenho que fazer nestes moldes para que me caiam bem. A revista Patrones também tem sido uma das minhas favoritas pelos seus modelos jovens e tão dentro das novas tendências. É uma revista Espanhola e escrita em Espanhol, com instruções muito resumidas, pelo que só aconselho os seus modelos a costureiras experientes, a não ser que sejam modelos realmente simples.
I feel very curious about American Pattern companies' patterns and I'm willing to try one of their patterns soon. As I said before I'm used to BWOF patterns mostly; I don't have to make major alterations on them and they really work for me. Patrones magazine is also a favorite because it features really trendy models and some good RTW models too. It's a Spanish magazine (there is no English edition) and the instructions are really summarized and short. I would advise its models to experienced sewers unless the model is a really simple one.

Quando comecei a "navegar" na net para pesquisar assuntos relacionados com a costura, descobri um mundo novo, inclusivamente cheio de novas alternativas no que respeita a moldes. Existem hoje diversas companhias que vendem moldes online, não só nos estados unidos como na Europa.
When I first started browsing the Internet looking for sewing resources I found out an entirely new world out there, lots of new alternatives regarding patterns for sewing. There are several pattern companies in Europe and the States that I didn't know about until some time ago.

Num próximo post irei divulgar alguns sites onde se pode comprar moldes online, essencialmente para as Portuguesas que talvez não conheçam ainda este mercado. Hoje falarei apenas dos moldes que fui adquirindo da Vogue Patterns por ter sido a primeira que descobri quando comecei a procurar por moldes.
On a next post I will discuss some of these pattern companies; I believe most of the Portuguese women don't know about them.

Antes de continuar, queria dizer-vos o que procuro num molde, ou que me faz comprá-lo; muitas vezes não é o potencial produto acabado que me fascina mas sim um determinado pormenor de estilo, uma gola, um decote. Posso dizer que na maior parte das vezes vejo para além da fotografia ou do desenho do modelo, porque imagino-o noutro tecido, com algumas modificações ou até bastante modificado. Muitas vezes comprei moldes apenas para perceber como o seu desenho era feito.
Before I go on I would like to explain to you what I look for in a pattern, what makes me buy it; sometimes it's not the preview of the finished garment that drives me but a single detail or a possibility: a particular collar, a different style line, a neckline… Most of the times I see beyond the model's picture and I imagine it with other fabric, with slight or severe modifications. I often buy patterns only to study them because they intrigue me.

Primeiro este conjunto Donna Karan com um design extremamente invulgar. Desde que a Ann Smithfez a jacketa que este molde não me saiu da cabeça e simplesmente tinha que o ter,mesmo que não o fosse costurar (mas se calhar até vou!). Algumas de vós devem lembrar-se de ver este conjunto no filme “O Diabo veste Prada”:
So, for starters I got this Donna Karan Suit; I remember Ann Smith making this jacket and since then I had to get this pattern for myself, even if I wasn't going to sew it (but maybe I will!). Some of you may have seen this suit on the movie "The Devil wears Prada".
A foto não ficou nítida por isso têm aqui a figura retirada do site da Vogue para poderem apreciar melhor este modelo:
The last photo isn't clear so this one is taken from the Vogue Patterns site:
Casacos: Devem reconhecer o modelo do meio do meu post “Estou a pensar vermelho”. Tenciono usar este modelo como base para copiar aquele casaco Armani da colecção de Inverno de 2005. A minha opinião é que este modelo não reflecte exactamente o original na gola, por isso constitui um desafio interessante tentar aproximar o resultado final ao original de Armani. Lembro-me também que a Ann e a Erica fizeram uma versão deste casaco.
Coats: you should recognize the one in the middle from my post "I'm thinking red". I intend to use this pattern to knock off that Armani coat from the 2005 F/W collection. My opinion about this pattern is that Vogue didn't succeed completely with the collar design; I believe the collar is different on the original. Here the challenge would be making it more close to the original. I also remember Ann's and Erica's versions of this coat.
Vestidos: o primeiro é bastante conhecido de algumas leitoras Americanas pois já o costuraram (lembro-me das fantásticas versões da Erica, da TwistedAngel, da Ann e da Villain, pelo menos). Acho este desenho super original e um bom desafio. O outro modelo também é interessante para um vestido de cerimónia.
Dresses: the first one is well known to the U.S. readers; I remember seeing Kaybee's, Erica's, Villain's and TwistedAngel's fantastic versions. This is a classical dress and a good challenge too. The other model is a night gown (I will attend to a wedding ceremony next July and this dress is a good candidate for that occasion).
Conjuntos: não consigo resistir a um conjunto simples de vestido/jaqueta! Lembro-me que a Summerset fez o da direita e que gostei muito da versão dela!
Suits: I can't resist to a simple jacket/dress suit! I remember seeing Summerset's version for the one on the right and it has been on my mind ever since!
Por último blusas e tops; achei estes modelos simples, originais e cheios de possibilidades:
Finally there are blouses and tops; I find these patterns really cute and original, with lots of different possibilities:
Quanto aos novos modelos da Vogue, os que me interessaram mais foram os vintage. A Celina comentou num dos meus posts anteriores se eu iria fazer um modelo vintage a partir dos diversos livros com moldes. É algo que gostaria de fazer e ultimamente tenho tido acesso a diversas fontes de inspiração:
As for the newly released models, the ones I find most interesting are the Vintage Vogues. Celina asked me on a previous post if I will ever make a vintage garment from my vintage pattern books and my answer is yes, that's something I'm willing to try someday! I've been getting lots of inspiration:

Summerset's American Beauty

Shannon's vintage SWAP

Lisa's recent pattern acquisitions

Marji's new SWAP vintage dress

Be well and Happy Sewing everyone!
Fiquem bem e boas costuras para todas!



12 comments:

Jen said...

I have a couple of those same patterns! Nice choices. Just an FYI...I sew a lot of Burda magazine patterns myself and they fit well. When I sew Vogue patterns I usually have to sew 1 size down from what it says I should using their measurement chart. You will definitely want to flat measure key areas of their patterns because they run larger than Burda :)

Tany said...

Thanks Jen! I will follow your advice, also I will make a muslin to test and tune the fit before I cut the fabric!

toya said...

vogue patterns are really good, I buy them when they go on sale but I just hoard them, lol, I have to work on that, my pattern containers are going but my wardrobe isn't ;-)

Dawn said...

In the US, when we select a pattern by one of the "major four" (Vogue, butterick, McCall's, Simplicity) we use a high bust measurement if we're a C-cup or over. All the patterns are made for a woman with a B-cup bust. If you use your full bust measurement to select the size, it'll be too big around the neck, shoulders and armhole. Buy smaller and make the bust only bigger.

I use burda WOF a lot too. In fact, I've got plans to make #112 from the current issue with some really nice plaid wool I splurged on. I like the yoke and pocket details.

I always have to take burda's in at the shoulders and upper back. But that is me. other than that, I find them great-fitting. there are more fitting details, I think, than you generally find in the big four US patterns.

dawn

Sheri said...

Thank you for your wonderfully informative blog. You inspire me to spend more attention to detail. My sewing has improved much since I started reading your blog. I'm not in such a hurry to finish a garment. I'm enjoying the process more.

Tany said...

Dawn: Thanks for the extra insight on the “Big Four” patterns, I really appreciate it! I’m a B cup (at least I think I am) and part of the challenge involved on sewing one of this patterns is comparing their fit to a pattern I know well and already tested. My measures put me on a size 14 but most of the Vogue patterns I own also feature the 12. I’m looking forward to try one of these patterns but my next project will be the red organza blouse instead. I haven’t decided what I will do next to that blouse, it also depends on the upcoming magazines, the fabrics I find on sale, and of course my mood!

Sheri Thank you so much for your kind comment! It’s really important to me to get positive feedback on what I do because it drives me further in this effort to share my passion for sewing! Be very welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Thanks to all!!

Isabelle said...

What a great post! How inspiring!
How funny, I was taking a break from cutting out Vogue 2902 and typed in your address, and there you are, talking about Vogue! That really makes the world feel small, doesn't it.
I've only used a Vogue pattern once before, and I loved it. They really have something special, don't they! Your choices are great. I'll have to make the 8280 some day. :) and I almost bought the 8360 dress for a special event, but I wasn't too fond of the gap in the back.

Thank you for the wonderful information, Tany. Hope you're having a great weekend! :)

Summerset said...

Thanks for mentioning me! We definitely have similar taste - if I don't own those patterns, I've comtemplated them or they're on my list to buy!

If you look on the actual pattern pieces - usually on the front piece there are circles with a cross in them. Those are the bust, waist and hip points. The measurements listed for each size near that circle are the *finished* garment measurements at that point. These are the measurements I go by when I cut out a Big 4 pattern. I know what size I am, and know what fit I'm looking for, so I go by those numbers and never look at the sizes on the envelope. I usually end up cutting multiple sizes based on my fitting tastes.

Ariane said...

I like many of the vogue patterns that you picked up. I just got the last one you pictured, the one with all the summery tops.

Tany said...

Thanks Summerset! That's a valuable tip!

ArianeThank you for your comment and welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Mamã Martinho said...

Acho que qualquer um dos moldes que tens se adequa perfeitamente a um potencial modelo a fazer. Gostei imenso de qualquer umn deles e se tivesse de escolher não sei qual seria.

bjs

Mónica

Margarida said...

Olá
fico agradecida.
Partilhamos da mesma arte, e ultimamente tenho praticado bastante, mais do que desejaria.
Mas quem sabe costurar nunca esquece, é como andar de bicicleta. eh eh eh .
bjs da avó guida