Saturday, August 14, 2010

Vestido BurdaStyle Jul2010 111C – BurdaStyle Jul2010 dress 111C

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Descrição do modelo original: Vestido justo em Jersey, franzido sobre uma invulgar vista aplicada à frente, provoca a suave sensação de aconchego junto ao corpo (imagem e descrição cortesia de BurdaStyle). Este modelo é apresentado em tamanhos para senhoras baixas (17-21).

Tecido utilizado: Inicialmente ia fazer este vestido utilizando um Jersey vermelho cereja, mas quando vi este jersey às riscas (roxo, lilás, laranja e preto), soube imediatamente que o iria utilizar para fazer um vestido que pudesse ser usado no verão e transportado para os dias mais outonais, apenas bastando usá-lo com meias e sobre um top de gola alta preto.

Modificações ao molde: Sendo um molde para senhoras baixas, tem normalmente de ser alongado para servir num tamanho regular. Tracei o tamanho 19 (equivalente ao tamanho regular 38) e alonguei as alças 10cm e a bainha 15cm (também porque queria o vestido um pouco mais comprido). Depois de provar o vestido verifiquei que estas modificações resultaram na perfeição no meu corpo.

Confecção: Este modelo tem um mini curso ilustrado da confecção do encaixe da frente na revista, mesmo assim vou mostrar aqui algumas fotos do progresso da confecção deste pormenor; apliquei entretela de malha fininha (podem ver aqui algumas indicações para a sua aplicação) nas duas partes da vista com alças, na parte central e também na tira de guarnição da abertura central. A parte da frente, as partes das costas e a parte central foram cortadas no jersey às riscas, as restantes partes (vistas com alças e guarnição) foram cortadas em Jersey preto. Nas figuras seguintes têm a aplicação da parte da frente sobre a parte central (do direito e do avesso:


A seguir temos a preparação da vista com alças, antes de virar e depois de virar para o direito (o passo seguinte é usar a guarnição para fazer a abertura central, mas não tenho fotos desse passo, que aliás está bem explicado no mini curso ilustrado, que já podem consultar aqui):


Aplicação da vista com alças na frente do vestido, antes e depois de coser à máquina:


A restante confecção é trivial. Deixo apenas a indicação que nas costuras laterais, costura central das costas, pinças das costas e bainha foram cosidas com a máquina de costura, usando o ponto elástico (semelhante a um ponto de ziguezague estreito). As orlas foram rematadas com a corta-e-cose. Demorei cerca de 6 horas a confeccionar este vestido, não contando com o tempo de traçar o molde.

Conclusão: Fiquei muito satisfeita, nomeadamente com o efeito visual das riscas na frente:

As cores conjugam com diversas peças existentes no meu guarda-roupa, dando origem a uma grande variedade de coordenados possíveis usando como base o mesmo vestido, que como referi, tanto pode ser usado de verão como no Outono, com um top preto e meias. Este jersey não é da variedade mais fina, e as cores convidam a combinações com preto laranja e roxo, tonalidades tendência da próxima estação.

Já sabem que brevemente me poderão ver a usar o vestido no Tany et La Mode Já podem ver-me a usar o vestido aqui; o que acham da ideia de fazer uma espécie de jogo de coordenados possíveis com este vestido? Uma ou duas vezes por semana poderia apresentar um coordenado com outras peças existentes no meu guarda-roupa, incluindo já os outonais… Acham que seria divertido?

Aproveito para avisar que o Bloglines não está a actualizar as feeds do Tany et La Mode e quem usa este “feed reader” não está a ser notificado quando são publicados novos posts; já reportei o problema e aguardo uma resposta da equipa do Bloglines.

Fiquem bem e até à próxima!


Description of the original model: This gathered alter dress has a very original front facing and fits snuggly to the body. The back is shaped by two darts (image courtesy of BurdaStyle.de). This pattern is for petite sizes (17-21).

Fabric used: I was intending to use solid cherry red jersey, but on a recent visit to the local fabric store I had a change of heart when I spotted this striped medium weight jersey (the colors are lilac, purple, orange and black). Immediately I envisioned a dress that not also could be worn during summer, it could also transit to fall by adding a black turtleneck and tights. I began picturing this dress together with many current elements of my wardrobe, dreaming about all the possibilities.

Alterations to the pattern: This is a petite sized pattern so I had to lengthen it to fit my size. I traced petite size 19 (equivalent to Burda regular 38) and I lengthened the shoulder straps by 4 inches (just in case). I also added at least 6 inches to the total length of the dress because I wanted it a little longer than the one pictures in the magazine. During the first fit I could see these alterations were enough and successful for my figure.

Construction: The magazine features an illustrated tutorial on the making of the front facing/shoulder straps but I’m sharing pictures of the process anyway. I fused thin knit interfacing to both inner and outer facing/straps (you can read a few tips on this type of interfacing here), center piece and the rectangle used to construct the center opening on the front facing/straps. The front, the back and the center piece were cut from the striped fabric, the remaining facing/shoulder straps and rectangle were cut from black jersey. Next pictures illustrate how the front is joined to the center piece (right and wrong side):


Next I’m showing the construction of the front facing/shoulder straps, before turning to the right side and after (next step would be the construction of the center opening – I have no pictures for these steps, but the illustrated tutorial featured in the magazine is very clear on the instructions; I've posted pictures of the illustrated tutorial here):


Here’s the front facing on top of the front/center piece (before and after machine stitching along the facing edges):


Remaining construction is trivial. I only want to point out that I machine stitched (using the stretch stitch equivalent to a narrow zigzag) the side seams, center back seam, back darts and hem. I find machine stitching better than just serging when having to match the stripes on the sides and CB seam. All raw edges were serge-finished. It took about six hours to sew the dress (not counting the time for tracing the pattern).

Conclusion: I was really pleased with the final result and the visual effect created by the stripes on the front of the dress:

The dress colorway works with a lot of my existent wardrobe elements, opening a lot of possibilities for different outfits based on this dress, including several possible fall outfits. This jersey is not the sheer kind so I think it will work fine for both summer and fall and it can be successfully combined with black, orange and purple, all being strong color trends for next fall.

Soon you’ll be able to see me wearing the dress over at Tany et La Mode See me wearing the dress here; what you guys think about making an outfit sequence featuring this dress? One or two times a week I could present an outfit based on this dress exploring many of the possible combos, including fall outfits… Do you think it would be fun?

As a last notice, it came to my knowledge that Bloglines isn’t updating the feeds for Tany et La Mode since the blog has become public again; if you use this feed reader you won’t be able to get the updated feed content until this problem is fixed. I’ve already reported it to the Bloglines team and I’m waiting for their reply.

Thank you for visiting, see you next time!

43 comments:

Uta said...

Gorgeous! The stripes highlight the cut very well, and aren't stripes just such a happy pattern?! I'd love to see a series on wearing/styling this dress!

Mary Beth said...

Tany, the dress is so pretty. I'm fascinated, please so some sytlin' with it as only you can!

Sigrid said...

What a lovely dress, I certainly would like to see you wearing it. It's not for my figure, but I like it a lot.

Karin said...

The striped material really shows off the design of the dress. How clever! Thank you for showing the construction process. The English version of Burda did not give an illustrated tutorial for sewing this dress.

AnaJan said...

Wow, Tany! The dress is stunning! I really like it in striped fabric. Perfectly executed, as usual.

Shannon said...

This dress is wonderful - I really love how the stripes add so much interest to the front!

BeckyW said...

Your dress is incredibly beautful. I really would love to make this one. Your photos will be a great help. Thank you.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Such a beautiful and stylish knit dress! The fabric is perfect!

Bunny said...

Fabulous dress and your choice of stripes makes a great design even better. Super look, Tany.

Vicki W said...

It's a fabulous dress and I know it must look awesome on you!

AllisonC said...

I love this in the stripes and with the contrasting black bands. Thanks for the news about your other site too.

Sheila said...

OmyGoodness Tany that dress is Gorgeous... love the colorway.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

Wow, I love it. The striped fabric is a fantastic idea, and the colors are great.

Nóra said...

It's much better than in Burda! Congratulations!

Anonymous said...

Viva, filhota. É lindo, lindo o vestido! Deve assentar-te como uma luva. Parabens. Kss. Mom

lin3arossa said...

The striped jersey brings the pattern to a whole new level. I'd love to see regular featurings of the dress on Tany et la Mode, nice idea!

sonoemi said...

What a beautiful and stylish dress! The processing of the stripes is perfect!

Claudine said...

WOW! I liked this pattern when I saw it in Burdastyle, but making it in stripes adds a whole other dimension. It is fabulous. Great job.

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

OMG that is one fantastic dress!

suze said...

Puxa vida, que perfeição nas costuras, parabéns, pelo trabalho e pelo vestido lindo.
Suzy Mendonça. Brasil

a little sewing on the side said...

I noticed this pattern because it is so cute - and you have made it even more special with the use of stripes. Beautiful!

Vicki said...

The stripes are really interesting in this dress. Beautiful work. It will be fun to see it styled different ways.

Victoria said...

Tany this dress is FABULOUS!!! I'm loving the stripes paired with that cool front facing You pick the prettiest patterns!

Anonymous said...

I love your dress. The fabric combo and the lines of the pattern work well together. Thanks for the detailed construction shots.

I love the idea of an outfit sequence based on your creations.

Angie R

Gail said...

I love the way the stripes change directions, accentuating the black neck feature. Just gorgeous!

senaSews said...

Beautiful dress! Well done - as always!

cici said...

nossa ficou realmente magnífico, e não vejo a hora de começar as combinações,Tany aqui no Brasil estamos no inverno, gostaria de ver como você usaria se ai em Portugal estivesse frio.
beijão
Cíntia

CORTEYGRIF said...

Magnifico Tany
adorei a coordinaçao das riscas,um modelo lindissimo e com umas cores perfeitas.
A opçao de utilizares com outras cores è fantastica,com certeza te veremos com bonitas combinaçoes do teu guarda roupa.
Recebi a revista,mutchas gracias.
besitos
Rosa

The Slapdash Sewist said...

The stripes make for such a great effect! Your meticulous construction is fantastic as always; thanks for the tips.

melissa said...

ooh I love the curved effect on the stripes, especially at the side seams!

I don't think there was any helpful sewing supplement for this dress in the English version, though. Could you possibly post the diagrams from the Portuguese version for us?

This dress was the whole reason I bought this issue, and I love that you'll be able to wear this well into Fall.

Angela said...

Oh my goodness... I love it... I love how the stripes turned out in the front~! Thanks for the detailed progress shots, too.

Kathryn, aka fzxdoc said...

What an amazing dress, Tany! Beautiful!

Mardel said...

Fabulous dress TAny! I noticed the dress in the magazine and thought it was lovely, but your version with the stripes is really awesome and uses the stripes to great advantage.

Isabelle said...

What a hot dress! Very striking - you must look stunning in it.

ISABELLE said...

Trés beau travail. Bravo. Bises de Frence. Isabelle

Natty said...

Sabes o que achei deste número da burda? muito repetitivo. Esse decote apareçe mais que uma vez, depois ha uma saia assim meio arrepanhada sabes que tb se repete... desilude-me.

mas bem esse vestido é lindo :)

beijinhos
Natty

Ingrid said...

Just stunning, love those colours! Thanks for the detail of altering a petite pattern (why do I always like the petite patterns when I'm taller than average?!)

Mz.Choize said...

FANTABULOUS!!!

Roberta Granada said...

Oi, adoro teu blog , tudo muito lindo como sempre,beijokas
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Nita said...

Perfeito como sempre:-)
Beijos

Rosy said...

Beautiful! The alteration of the bands of colors makes a very interesting visual effect, I think you're a genius manipulating fabrics!

Lindsay T said...

Super sexy dress and so well made. It screams "resort wear."

Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

Such a beautiful dress! Tany, your sewing and design skills are amazing, as always!