Monday, December 28, 2009

O meu primeiro projecto Marfy – My first Marfy project

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Modelo Original: Marfy F2005

Descrição: Casaco muito ao estilo Audrey Hepburn no filme Breakfast at Tiffany’s, como relembrou o meu amigo Paco, a quem devo agradecer pelo contacto do seu Amigo que vive em Itália e que teve a gentileza de enviar-me este e outro molde.

Tem uma gola subida e larga, o corpo é ajustado por vários recortes verticais contendo uma carcela escondida na frente; a saia é um pouco mais ampla e franzida com um grande macho atrás, além de duas pregas de cada lado na frente, nascendo nas costuras verticais. A cintura é marcada com um cinturão abotoado nas laterais da frente. As mangas são estreitas e ligeiramente tufadas em cima. O casaco leva também pespontos feitos à mão para um maior contraste das costuras. Também adicionei bolsos metidos na costura lateral, que não constam do modelo original.

Construção: Os moldes Marfy são um pouco diferentes do que estamos habituadas: são traçados à mão, vêm já recortados e não trazem quaisquer instruções nem planos de corte, sendo que a construção do modelo fica à consideração do executante. O molde contém apenas as peças básicas necessárias; por exemplo o forro não tem molde próprio, e deve ser traçado a partir do molde do casaco descontando as vistas. Os pontos de junção que nos ajudam a determinar como se juntam as peças são identificados por letras do alfabeto.


O tecido que utilizei é misto de lã e caxemira comprado na loja British Fabrics no eBay e tem uma cor laranja a tender para o salmão. Tem um cair muito suave e de início pensei ser demasiado fino para um casaco; neste momento sei que foi a escolha perfeita. Para os pespontos utilizei fio de bordar, como podem ver na foto, juntamente com os botões à cor (os pequenos ficam escondidos na carcela) e as linhas de coser:

Para começar reforcei todas as peças com entretela de nylon fininha, que dá um pouco mais de corpo ao tecido e evita que engelhe tanto ao usar. Descobri esta entretela há pouco tempo na Retrosaria Nova em Aveiro, e é um pouco mais forte que a entretela de malha fininha que costumo usar, sedo um óptimo substituto para a organza de seda muitas vezes usada como “underlining” em peças de alta-costura. A parte exterior da gola e do cinto foram reforçadas com entretela tecida (um pouco mais forte), sem valores de costura. Depois prossegui marcando todas as linhas e marcações com alinhavos:

Além dos chumaços de alfaiate com desconto nas costas e das cabeças de manga “moustache”, reforcei a linha das cavas com fita termo-colante; o peito levou um “escudo de peito" feito com entretela de alfaiate e cosido à mão à frente:

As costas também levaram um reforço feito de pano de algodão:

Para os pespontos experimentei um ponto de corrente longo e gostei do resultado:


A carcela escondida foi um desafio por si só, mas no fim ficou muito bem; o facto de ter usado cetim (o tecido que usei para o forro), diminuiu o volume desta carcela significativamente.


Depois de fazer alguns testes gostei bastante do resultado do caseado à máquina e decidi incorporá-lo:

Quanto ao forro, foi inteiramente cosido à mão de acordo com o método "vintage" em que as mangas de forro são também cosidas à mão às cavas, depois de o corpo do forro estar aplicado. A gola foi aplicada por último, encarcerando o forro e o tecido.

Detalhes finais:

A gola e a casa avivada tamanho gigante:

Os bolsos metidos na costura:

O cinturão:

A carcela escondida:

A corrente de pendurar:

A minha etiqueta juntamente com a etiqueta de origem do tecido:

Conclusão: Como primeira experiência com os moldes Marfy, adorei e quero repetir! O facto de não ter instruções pode parecer assustador à partida, mas para uma pessoa com prática é até libertador e dá asas à criatividade individual. As imagens falam por si, o casaco ficou lindo e com muita qualidade. Posso dizer que veste maravilhosamente; embora não tenha tido tempo de fazer uma sessão com ele vestido, já o usei várias vezes com cinzas e preto pois este ano fez bastante frio no final do Outono. É claro que envolveu bastante trabalho manual, que coincidiu com a minha fase de negação quanto ao problema da dormência… Como resultado o problema piorou, mas depois tirei uns dias para descansar e parece-me que voltei a ficar melhor.

Aproveito para agradecer a calorosa recepção de todas e todos além dos conselhos muito úteis; vocês emocionam-me sempre e estava mesmo a precisar de desanuviar escrevendo no blog… Quanto ao meu problema, prometo que não vou desleixar nem deixar de ir ao médico; apenas quis tirar um tempo, pois estava farta de consultas. Sendo uma pessoa saudável que nunca precisou de fazer grandes exames e consultas, passei para o extremo oposto com uma série de exames (aos indicadores da tiróide, raio-X, electromiografia, densitometria óssea, etc.) e várias consultas primeiro de clínica geral e depois de ortopedia. Andava deprimida com tudo isto e precisei de um tempo, é só.

Bem, de costura ainda tenho mais um casaco para mostrar. Vou também publicar a última sweater de tricô que fiz, e que provavelmente foi a responsável por despoletar o meu problema, pois usei agulhas e lã muito grossas, forçando muito os pulsos. Até breve!

NOTA: Podem ver-me a usar o casaco aqui.


Original model: Marfy F2005

Description: As recalled by Paco (to whom I owe putting me in contact with a friend in Italy who was so kind and got this pattern for me), this coat resembles the style of Audrey Hepburn in the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s:

It features a wide standing collar, the bodice is fitted by the means of several vertical seams and there’s also a hidden placket as front closure; the skirt is flared and shirred, with a back box pleat and two front pleats on each front originating from the vertical seams. The waist is highlighted by a large buttoned belt. The two-piece sleeves are slim and slightly puffed on the sleeve cap. Some seams are topstitched for contrast using a long chainstitch instead of the traditional saddle stitch. I also added in-seam pockets to this model.

Construction: As some of you may acknowledge, Marfy patterns are a little different from what we are used to: they are hand traced and already cut, having no seam/hem allowances included, no instructions and no cutting layouts. The construction process is left entirely up to the dressmaker to decide. The pattern only includes the basic pieces; for example there was no lining pattern and it must be traced using the coat pattern as a base, excluding the facings width. The notches and junction points are identified by alphabet letters and provide a pretty good indication of how all the pieces should come together.


The fabric used is a wool/cashmere mix that I bought at British Fabrics on eBay; its color is a faded orange tending to salmon. It hangs beautifully and at first lead me to think that it would be too soft/thin for this coat. I was proved wrong as the coat came along though. For topstitching I used embroidery thread and a long chainstitch instead of the usual saddle stitch. You can see some of the materials used in the next picture, including the buttons (the smaller ones are intended for the hidden placket):

First I underlined all the pieces with thin knit fusible; this is a variety that I never had used before, since I found it a short while ago at a local notions store: it’s crispier than the one I’ve been using for the same purpose and delivers a similar effect to silk organza. The outer collar and outer belt were reinforced using thin woven interfacing with no seam allowances for bulk reduction. Next I thread traced all the stitching lines and markings:

Besides using cropped-back tailor shoulder pads and moustache sleeve heads, I reinforced the armholes with fusible tape; I also applied a canvas made chest shield padstitched to the front:

The back was also reinforced with cotton muslin:

Here’s the topstitching (a long chain stitch):


The hidden placket was a challenge on its own but I think it came out pretty good once I figured it out. The use of satin (the same used for the coat lining) makes it less bulkier (there’s a pattern piece for the placket and it has “lining” written to it so Marfy designers thought of this too):


After running some tests I went with the machine buttonholes for the placket:

The lining was stitched to the coat entirely by hand and tacked to the side seams; the lining sleeves were hand tacked to the sleeve back seams and were also sewn by hand to the armholes after the lining body was set in place (vintage method); the collar was set for last, encasing both lining and fabric.

Final details:

The collar and the large bound buttonhole:

The added in-seam pockets:

The waist belt, also with large buttonholes:

The finished hidden placket:

The hanging chain:

My label next to the fabric’s origin label:

Conclusion: As a first experience with Marfy patterns I really loved it! Not having instructions and cutting layouts might sound scaring but with some practice it’s really a mind freeing experience and it provides room for individual creativity. The pictures talk for themselves, the coat came out beautiful and with very high quality. It wears beautifully (take my word for it: I’ve worn it with a grey outfit and also with a black outfit and got lots of compliments). It was a ton of hand work during the time when I was in strong denial concerning my numbness problem; as a result I got worse and had to slow down a little bit afterwards.

I really want to thank the warm welcoming and the valuable advice concerning my problem; I really needed to take it out of my chest. I promise I will follow up this problem; it happens that I’ve always been a very healthy person that managed to stay away from doctors and medical exams (except the routine ones, of course). At sudden everything changes and I saw myself going to the doctor almost every week and making all kinds of exams (I made a thyroid check-up, several X-rays, an electromyography, a bone densitometry, all in a month time), and on top of all I still didn’t get a precise diagnostics. I couldn’t recognize myself in this position and had to take a break…

Ok, so there’s one more sewing project to show (another coat but this time it’s an easier one, I promise!) and I think I'll share my last knitting project, the one I believe triggered this numbness: I used huge knitting needles and heavy yarn and it really soured my writs back then. I remember the symptoms appearing little time afterwards. See you all soon!

ETA: Pictures of me wearing the coat are published here

63 comments:

Vicki W said...

Stunning!!

Trudy Callan said...

Wonderful attention to detail.

Sara said...

This is so gorgeous!!!

Vicki said...

Just beautiful. Love the topstitching idea - makes it a bit different. And such a lovely colour.

Erica B. said...

That color is superb! What a beautiful coat!

Soph said...

GORGEOUS!!!!! SO WELL MADE!!!
Sophie

Adelaide B said...

So lovely!

Karin said...

How beautiful! You are very talented. I am amazed.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Every single detail about this jacket speaks quality! It is beautiful and I'm sure the color suits you perfectly.

Angela Butler said...

Simply gorgeous. Wow.

okie2thfairy said...

Beautiful coat. I'm so jealous and envious of your talent. Thank you for showing such great details.

CBH-Freebies Search said...

O casaco ficou lindo. Esta cor deve ficar maravilhosa em voce. Quanto aos medicos, nao veja como um grande problema de saude, mas sim o fato dos medicos nao saberem o que esta' causando o seu problema, e pedindo exames para poderem adivinhar. Eu sei que e' dificil, pois tambem nao gosto :-) Mas tendo tanto medico na minha familia (mae, irma, etc...) eu tenho que aguentar :-) Orbigada mais uma vez por partilhar.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

The coat is stunning! I love all the details!

Dei said...

Tany, is there anything you can't make? Amazing! The coat is superb and I am in-love with the color. Thank you so much for the sewing instruction. I haven't tried a Marfy pattern, but now you've got me inspired.

Still in my prayers for your continued good health.

Joyce in NC said...

Wonderful! The coat is great. I love the color and the details.

gwensews said...

Welcome back. You have been missed. What an elegant coat! Just beautiful. I am sorry to hear of your ailments, and hope you find an answer and a cure soon.

mem said...

Dear Tany , It is so nice to see you sewing and blogging . I really do think that your Blog is one of the very best in the Blogging world and I really appreciate that you do it. I wanted to tell you that I work in the medical field and deal with people such as yourself all the time . It can be very unnerving to put your trust in someone you dont know and especially when your hands are as precious as they are to you.
You mentioned that you couldnt be guaranteed 100% cure rate . No one will do that, even if they are really sure that that surgery is what you need.With carple tunnle syndrome it is important that the compression of the nerve tissue doesnt go on for too long as the recovery can be altered by the tissue becoming permanently damaged so that surgery wont be as effective as if it had happened earlier.. A nerve conduction test will tell you whether there is damage now . Also Xrays of your neck will not necessarily tell you alot, as Xray changes take years to develope and so damage can be there but not be visible on Xray. I would suggest an MRI might be more helpful . Having said all that though, I would suggest that a good clinician should through taking a good history and taking a very good look at you ,be able to tell you waht is wrong. What you dont want to do, is rush into surgery and then find out that that wasnt the problem to begin with. If you want to talk more with me you can email me if you like at marianne.isaacs@iechs.org.au. All the best and do take care of yourself . You have been missed!!

Josie said...

Hi Tany, welcome back, even just temporarily :(. This is such a beautiful coat, every detail is gorgeous.

I am by no means qualified to give medical advice but I did find gingko biloba supplements to be helpful when I had a similar numbness/tingling problem in my hands. I also found some carpal tunnel exercises on the web and try to do them regularly. All the best for a speedy recovery. Cheers Josie.

Audrey said...

Your coat is lovely. What a wonderful warm color to wear with grey and black! The topstitching looks absolutely perfect! I always admire the hand stitching you do on your garments. I hope you can resolve your numbness problem so that you can continue to do it. Congratulations on your success with your first Marfy pattern. From your comments I feel you will be sewing using more Marfy patterns in the future. They have some unique designs.

Nancy K said...

What a pleasant surprise to see that you had posted again, and what wonderful pieces! I am in awe of your talents.
The coat is amazing; I imagine that with your coloring the color must look fabulous on you.

Sandy said...

Tany,

As always your work is amazing! This coat is gorgeous!
Both outfits (this and the grey suit) are stunning examples of your sewing skills.

sewabeginner said...

I don't feel qualified to comment on your talented sewing being just a beginner, but I am so impressed with this coat. It looks so beautiful and all of the details you put into it are so worth it. Stunning!

DianaCirne said...

Acho que esta é uma das peças mais bonitas que vi feitas por ti! Para além de me ter automaticamente apaixonado pelo casaco, acho que todo o cuidado que colocas-te na sua execução e nos belos pormenores fizeram dele um casaco invejavel. Muitos parabéns! E Um feliz ano novo!!!

andrea said...

gorgeous!

Lorelle said...

Your coat is gorgeous. I love the topstitching.

Celina said...

Estou completamente extasiada! Esse é o tipo de casaco que eu adoro, tipo redingote... a cor é maravilhosa, os pormenores estão soberbos como sempre. Quando visitei o MUDE no Verão vi lá uns casacos Dior neste género e eu e uma amiga minha perguntávamo-nos porque é que não se fazem casacos destes hoje em dia... Bem, tu fizeste. Maravilhoso.
Bjs

anita said...

Gorgeous coat! Such a pretty color and that wool/cashmere must feel so luxurious!

SILK-AND-JOY said...

...I never ever saw a coat that perfectly sewed, with a couture-look every professional designer wouldt be happy have it in his collection.
Best regards to you!
Claudia

Mary Beth said...

I'm sorry you are going through the physical problems, Tany. Sometimes you just have to let go of doing the things you love to do in order to get better.

Your offline projects are beautiful to see, though. Congratulations! hugs, 2

Lauh said...

Este casaco é tão belo! Quem me dera conseguir costurar um assim... :)
As melhoras! Compreendo que seja dificil não poder costurar com tanta frequência e que isso a aborreça mas o mais importante é ficar boa :)

beijinhos!

cidell said...

Really, really beautiful. I'm in love with the topstitching!

Regarding the tendonitis. I also have it in both hands. But, much worse in my right. A reader suggested I start taking vitamin E. Between that, heat, motrin / ibuprofin and wearing a brace it's under control and rarely causes me problems. But, I hate that there really is just no 'cure' for it.

Mamã Martinho said...

Este casaco ficou lindissimo!
A cor, o molde, enfim tudo.
Deve realmente ficar espetacular com os pretos. Só é pena que este e a sweter de malha tenha provocado o problema que tiveste nos dedos...
Esperemos que consigas fazer mais casacos destes.

bjs

Mònica

Amanda S. said...

What a beautiful coat, Tany. I LOVE love the color and all the interesting details. You always make the prettiest coats!

immelu said...

That is a fantastic coat!! I love it!

Teddylyn said...

Your coat and your skills--just exquisite! I also love the grey suit from your previous post. Your garments are all stunning.

Take good care of the wrists/elbows and find a doctor who can help you find a resolution to the problem. Constant repetative motion seem to aggrivate these injuries, so your knitting may have been the real culprit.

I love your sewing and am so glad you have taken the time and effort to share it with us!

Lynda in LV

Anonymous said...

It's so nice to see your wonderful blog active again. So glad you are able to continue with your lovely work. I am sorry to hear about your horrible scare and hope that is all behind you.

Thank you for sharing - the coat is simply beautiful!!!

Sending well wishes for the new year. All the best from NYC.

Maricou said...

I adore this coat. You are so gifted
Happy New Year!

Nita said...

Olá Tany
Que bom ver novos modelos, este em particular está sublime...
Desejo-te um Feliz Ano Novo cheio de Saúde.
Beijos

Nita

Kennis said...

It's just simply stunning. I absoluately love everything you make. I would be in heaven if I can just observe how you sew. I am sure I would learn so much just watching you.

About your medical issue, I am hoping that you do recover from it. Nothing is more important than health and we just have to do the best for ourselves and hope for the best.

Reethi said...

Tany, you do such beatiful work, with such amazing attention to detail. I love this, and thanks for all the detail pictures. If I ever make a coat, I'll know where to look for inspiration and how-tos.

Bunny said...

Exquisite coat! The color is marvelous. I am assuming your chain stitch was hand done. Am I correct?

Tany said...

Bunny: Thanks and yes, the chainstitch is hand done; first I topstitched by machine using the longest stitch setting and then used the machine stitches as a guide for a perfectly even chainstitch (2 machine stitches = 1 chainstitch).

Sew4Fun said...

Superb coat!! Love the colour. Thanks so much for continuing to share all the details.

Sara said...

Incrivel! Tao lindo! I love it. Audrey Hepburn, you can't go wrong. This pattern sounds like a real challenge--no instructions or seam allowances? You seemed to do just fine. Any more Marfy in your future?

Shannon said...

Wow! This coat is divine. If I lived closer I'd be plotting how to steal it!

berry said...

Hi Tany, it's such a pleasure looking at your wonderfully executed works! This coat is really sophisticated and such a beauty!
Greetings from Switzerland,
berry

Lori said...

Stunning coat, the hand topstitching is amazing. Thank you for all the details you provide for us.

paco peralta said...

Tany querida.- que te puedo decir, todo lo que te diga acerca de este abrigo, quedaría escaso. Está precioso, de veras. Creo que deberías de enviar un e-mail a MARFY y adjuntarles este post. Quedarían maravillados.

Marita said...

Tany, I'm so pleased to see you blogging again:) .....and what a coat !!!!WHOA!!!!! That is soooo perfect, the pattern is lovely, the color is TDF, beautiful buttons and your usual attention to detail, I'm speechles,:O this must be the single most beautiful thing you've ever made, atleast I love it:) Happy new year:)
Marita

melissa said...

What an absolutely gorgeous, gorgeous coat! The lines are just beautiful and you've finished it to perfection as usual!

I'm so glad to see you're blogging again, though I understand why you didn't feel like it while you were being poked and prodded all the time. I felt very similar during September and the best treatment is just some time to breathe and relax and reasses what you really enjoy doing.

CORTEYGRIF said...

Tany amiga
concordo plenamente com o comment
do Paco,deverias mandar um mail á Marfy por este maravilhoso trabalho,ficariam super orgulhosos
com certeza,e nòs tbm por ter uma Portuguesa 5***** na confecçao.
Creio que è o casaco com os pespontos mais lindos que jà vi.
Boa escolha na cor e modelo,lindo Tany.
feliz dia
bjs
ROSA

designdreamer said...

First, I'm so glad to see your posts again - even if temporary.
Second, WOW! While orange has never been my color, I've been inexpicably drawn to it it recently -- I bought orange/coral? clothes for my dds. I LOVE this coat! Did you do all that chain-stitching by HAND???? I'm thinking that with all that, and all the knitting you do, no wonder you're experiencing some numbness. Hopefully that's all it is. I completely understand the being healthy, and subsequent reluctance in seeing doctors. Especially if they're not giving you any answers.

senaSews said...

Oh Tany, this coat is to die for! I love everything about it! Wow, now i want one too!

AllisonC said...

Oh good grief this is absolutely breathtaking. I almost want to move to somewhere cold so I can have a wardrobe of coats! (not that I would have the skills or patience to come anywhere close to this).

Cennetta said...

Wow! Wow! It's been such a long time since my last visit. You are sewn some beautiful, breath taking garments. This coat is simply outstanding. You are a great source of inspiration. Thank you so much for sharing all of your fine works.

myleta said...

FANTÁSTICO!!!

Mardel said...

Gorgeous! Just gorgeous.

sensoussi said...

HI Tany,
I'm grat to see, thanks for posting us something to put under the tooth....

Have a good new year, happiness and good health, hope the end of the house will happen as it should!

Such a magnificent work this salmon coat!

Laura said...

Um bocadinho atrasada, mas tenho mesmo que te deixar umas palavras de admiração porque está fantastico. Um grande beijinho. Laura

Jane Karen said...

Estou boquiaberta com tamanha perfeição!

Que dom lindo você tem, parabens!!!

beijos
Jane

guraucia said...

Magnífico.
Bjs
Glaucia

Anonymous said...

Do you have a tutorial video that can be purchase?

Tany said...

I'm sorry, at this point I don't sell tutorials/video tutorials, all I do is to document my sewing process and share pictures of it for free. Maybe in the future, who knows?