Monday, June 8, 2009

Conjunto Donna Karan (V2064) e mais um macacão – V2064 (Donna Karan top and pants) and another jumpsuit

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)
Foi um fim-de-semana em cheio:

Modelo original: V2064 Conjunto de calça e top em Jersey de Donna Karan (opções B e D) (cortei o tamanho 12)

Descrição: o top é justo e traçado na frente, formando um drapeado que se prende com uma presilha e um colchete. A opção B é assimétrica, tendo uma manga apenas. Toda a orla superior e superior da manga e ombro levam um elástico na bainha para ajustar melhor ao corpo. As calças, levam pinças e elástico; no molde são omissas as costuras laterais (a frente e as costas forma um único molde da perna). Os tecidos aconselhados são malhas com elasticidade nas duas direcções (apenas usar tecidos de malha com elasticidade para este modelo).

Tecido: Jersey 92%poliéster 8%elastano. Para as costuras usei uma agulha fina especial para malhas (ponta arredondada), a corta-e-cose para os remates e agulha dupla (também especial para malhas).

Detalhes:

O cós é cosido de uma forma simples: depois de confeccionadas as calças cose-se o elástico directamente no cós (no avesso) deixando uma pequena margem para virar para dentro; depois vira-se o elástico para dentro e dá-se uns pequenos pontos a segurar nas costuras centrais e nas pinças. Podem ver que do lado de fora não se vêm costuras:

A forma como o drapeado da frente é construído é muito inteligente: a parte interior tem uma presilha onde se fazem umas argolas de linha para prender com o colchete que fica na ponta do drapeado exterior:


Fica assim depois de apertado:



O decote assimétrico e a parte exposta da manga são ajustados ao corpo com a ajuda de um elástico passado dentro da costura:

O canto da bainha na frente fica com este aspecto por dentro:

E por fora:

Para as bainhas usei o Steam-a-Seam Lite que a Margi me enviou há uns tempos; cola a bainha permanentemente, mas depois de usar o top, com o esticar da peça, notei um ligeiro ondulado. Para disfarçar estou a pensar coser a bainha por cima com a agulha dupla.

Além deste conjunto ainda fiz um macacão de Jersey preto, usando o mesmo molde da revista Manequim do macacão com estampado assimétrico:

Conclusão: O conjunto e o macacão são óptimos para as férias e fiquei muito satisfeita com ambos; o molde V2064 está categorizado como fácil, mas na minha opinião é um modelo para pessoas com alguma prática, principalmente se quiserem primar nos acabamentos. Já o planeava fazer há muito tempo e agora surgiu a oportunidade pois decotes com o ombro de fora são uma tendência actual!

Tenho em stock muitas malhas estampadas e sólidas e preciso de ganhar espaço no meu armário de tecidos, por isso vou fazer uns tantos modelos de malha, que são sempre mais rápidos e fáceis! Até à próxima!

This is the result of a sewing weekend:

Original model: V2064 Misses’ top & pants by Donna Karan (view B and D) (I cut a 12):

Description: The close-fitting wrap top has right front (cut-in-one with back) forming drape and tab with hook/thread loops closing; the B version has an asymmetric neckline with drop-off shoulder and one sleeve with the top exposed. The pants are straight, are shaped by darts and an elasticized waistline. The fabrics are two-way stretch knits only.

Fabric used: 82%polyester 8%elastan jersey. I used a thin jersey needle (ball point) for seaming, the serger for the SA finishing and a jersey twin needle.

Details:

The waistband is very simple to make: after the pants are stitched together, the elastic is sewn over the waistline edge (on the wrong side) leaving a small fabric edge to turn in; the elasticized edge is then turned in and tacked down to the seams and darts. On the outside there’s no visible seaming, as you can see:

The front draping is very cleverly constructed: the inner layer has a tab with thread loops (it crosses a seam opening at the right side seam) and there’s a hook on the end extremity of the draped overlap:


This is how it looks:



The asymmetric neckline edge and the shoulder opening have a casing and elastic, adjusting the garment to the body:

This is the mitered hem corner on the front:

On the outside:

For hemming I used the Lite Steam-A-Seam that Margi was so kind to send me a while back; it glues the seams permanently and it’s really easy to apply (it sticks to the fabric just by finger pressing and it fuses permanently when ironed). After wearing the top once I noticed a slight rippling so I plan on making a row of double topstitching, just in case.

During the weekend I also managed to make another Manequim jumpsuit; this time I used black jersey and I think it looks great:

Conclusion: Both the Donna Karan knit set and black jumpsuit are great vacation clothes and I’m very happy with then. V2064 is rated “easy” but I believe there’s some difficulty to this pattern if you want to make it look really good and well made, so I’d rate it intermediate instead. I was planning to make it for quite some time and now the opportunity presented itself. Both asymmetric necklines and draped tops are strong trends for this season.

I have many knits in my stash and I need to free some storage space, so expect more knit garments soon! Happy Sewing to all!

40 comments:

Erica B. said...

Both outfits are fabulous! I have a jumpsuit I plan to make soon! You look great!

cidell said...

omg. I gasped a little I thought the blue Vogue was so beautiful. I never even looked TWICE at that pattern. Wowser!

Byrdie said...

Both outfits are gorgeous! That blue top looks better on you than on the pattern envelope!

On a different subject- I was wondering what kind of dress form you have and if you like it? I'm in the market for one.

Frida said...

Interesting wrapping and I do love that blue color! Nice to see another jumpsuit too, it looks a bit different from the one in color since this one is all in black.

Bunny said...

Gorgeous outfits! That blue and grey combo is fabulous. Thanks for the great detail pics.

TheLuxuriousVagabond said...

The blue top is so unique! I think that it would even look wonderful if you lengthen the pattern for the top into a dress.

Joyce in NC said...

Tany,
Once again, your work is beautiful.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Gorgeous...both garments are just gorgeous on you!

Adrienne said...

You already know I LOVE IT! I pulled out my jumpsuit pattern this morning! LOL

nowaks nähkästchen said...

I love the Donna Karan Outfit! It does not only look fabulous on you but you also made it very beautifully!

Claudine said...

Wow! The top and trousers are gorgeous, but I must say, I especially love the jumpsuit.

Summerset said...

Faulous! Love the color and style of the DK. The DK top would make a great dress, too with a little more length.

Anonymous said...

All your creations are fantastiques and really beautiful. Speciall this one is tres chic and sexy. You are a professional but if you don't mind please change the color of your background from black to white. Black doesn't go at all with these pretty dresses.

Amy

Rachel said...

I love your outfits and I just love your style. I wish I could get that much done in one weekend.

KayB said...

Oh Tany, I have the Donna Karan pattern for years lying and never was truly inspired by it. But I have to say, that your piece is truly inspiring. Have to see if I can pluck up the energy and give it a go this time.
The jumpsuit is simply cute!

Amanda S. said...

Everything looks wonderful! I guess you are going on vacation? Those will pack really well. That's one thing I don't like about traveling - being wrinkly.

Marita said...

I absolutely adore that DK top, this is one of the patterns I've missed getting or had something that had to be aquired more acutely, but I guess some ebay fishing is gonna happen soon...The jumpsuit is great too:-)

Dana said...

Both outfits are beautiful, but that DK is stunning!

anita said...

Gorgeous outfits, Tany! They look very comfortable as well as very stylish. :)

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Both outfits are absolutely stunning on you! You wear these so well. They are not only very very stylish but I'm sure very comfortable :) I'm anxious to see your other knit creations. Enjoy your time off :)

CreativeBusyHands-Scrapbook Freebies Search said...

Wow!! Esta blusa azul (turquesa) ficou super linda em voce. Como sempre, trabalho impecavel. Obrigada por partilhar.

Nancy K said...

This is so gorgeous on you! It is a very stylish look with that asymmetrical neckline.

Vicki said...

Great Donna Karan oufit! Looks fabulous on you. The jumpsuit too is very you.

AllisonC said...

It's always a treat when my blog reader pops up with your blog in it! I love both of these outfits on you and as you say they make perfect vacation wear and are bang on trend - gorgeous.

CRUZ BARRIENTOS said...

Wow, Tany the blue and gray out fit is just gorgeous. Thank you for sharing.

Vicki W said...

Hot! Hot! Hot! Fabulous Tany!

verobirdie said...

Oh, I love this top, very clever construction. My daughter has been looking at asymetric tops this weekend, she might like it.

toy said...

great as always, I love the color of the blue you got for the top, that is such a nice color for summer and you will wear that body suit to death it is such an easily accessorized garment for your summer closet. Take care

Mamã Martinho said...

Espetáculo! Adorei os conjuntos, mas em especial o top! Tenho uma camisola assim, só com uma manga, mas a tua ficou bem mais gira.

Bjs e boas férias

Mónica

Mary Beth said...

Ohhhh, you made that Donna Karan outfit! It looks wonderful and reminds me I have had it in the stash for a while.

Both of the outfits are just fabulous! Congratulations Tany, you look really gorgeous.

Mardel said...

Ohhhh, that Donna Karan outfit is gorgeous on you.

Marji said...

You wear that so well. And your construction, as always, is impeccable.

berry said...

Oh Tany, this looks so chic and sophisticated! Great color- combination, too.

Greetings from CH:
berry

Sheila said...

Lovely Outfits and the DK Top is awesome.

gold said...

Those are some fantastic outfits!!

melissa said...

that's such a cool design, I never noticed it before! Te cut-out shoulder on the long sleeved side is a great detail, too. You'll look like a million dollars on your holidays!

Sigrid said...

You'll be going to Cannes or something similar on your holidays don't you? You certaily have the outfit for fashionable places! That top is exquisite on you.

DianaCirne said...

Fiquei com uma paixão por este macacão! Ainda hoje ia na rua e vi uma senhora com um modelo mt idêntico mas num tecido acetinado e lembrei-me imediatamente do teu! Tenho de fazer qualquer coisa para superar a minha paixão, o recurso é fazer um para mim!! O top assimétrico é também muito giro!

paco peralta said...

Todo divino Tany. El nuevo mono me encanta, tan sobrio y con tanto estilo. El conjunto Donna Karan es espectacular y los colores elegidos hacen una combinación "rara", pero muy bella.

ahhh...observo que moderaste la entrada de comentarios.....

besos, Paco

Ana Carina said...

Bem...Palavras para quê?! Fiquei de boca aberta.

Adorei o top/túnica azul turqueza. Tem um corte muito original, assimétrico...e fica-te muito bem! O macacão preto...é um básico elegantíssimo!!!

Estou a ver que tens o guarda-roupa renovada para este verão!

Beijinhos e boas costuras!