Sunday, May 24, 2009

Estão preparados para outro vestido estilo “Gucci”? - Are you up to another Gucci inspired dress?

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Sim, tenho estado desaparecida e sem tempo nenhum durante a semana. Hoje lá consegui acabar este maxi-vestido (este verão nenhum guarda-roupa estará completo sem um maxi-vestido!) e ler mais de metade dos blogs da minha lista… Amanha espero conseguir por em dia a leitura na outra metade.

Inspiração: Mal vi o tecido lembrei-me da colecção Primavera-Verão 2009 da marca italiana Gucci (imagens retiradas do sítio www.style.com):


É claro que o tecido destes vestidos Gucci deve ser voile de seda natural e o tecido que usei é um Jersey fininho (da mesma qualidade do que usei para o meu macacão Manequim), que tem um cair pesado e imita as malhas de seda.

Molde original: Burda FashionLine 515B (disponível para compra: download online):


As instruções estão em Inglês mas confesso que não as segui; o vestido pareceu-me bastante simples de fazer, embora se tenha de ter algum cuidado com as marcações, principalmente das pregas. O tecido recomendado não é elástico como o que usei, mas não senti que o modelo perdesse com esse facto.

Modificações: Como o meu tecido é elástico, omiti o zipper lateral; resolvi também não cruzar as alças e deixar o excedente para atar com um laço atrás. Acrescentei também uma rosa de tecido (podem ver uma explicação de como se faz neste artigo no blog “The Sewing Divas”: “Alternative for Real Buttons – Make a Dior Rose”).

Detalhes:

A frente com a rosa aplicada e o corpete franzido pelas alças (tubinhos de tecido):

As costas franzidas com elástico (em vez de ziguezaguear sobre elástico rolinho resolvi aplicar o método descrito neste vídeo da Mimi (Myraida), que ensina a fazer um maxi-vestido directamente no manequim – não se esqueçam de fazer um donativo para apoiar o trabalho da Mimi, se puderem!). Na orla do vestido (costas) apliquei um elástico de 1cm para ajustar melhor as costas:

O corpete é forrado com a mesma malha utilizada no vestido e a saia é forrada com forro de malha especial (agradeço mais uma vez ao Paco). Basicamente são cortadas duas saias (frente e costas), fechadas as costuras laterais e alinhavadas juntas as orlas de cima, antes de formar as pregas:


A bainha, tal como fiz no macacão, é suspensa (esta técnica parece resultar mesmo bem com este tecido); neste caso cosi as duas bainhas (forro mais curto uns 30cm) juntas com a corta-e-cose:

Vista lateral e das costas do vestido:

Conclusão: Adorei! Acho que consegui criar um efeito estupendo com este tecido de riscas irregulares e um maxi-vestido fabuloso para o verão! Espero que tenham gostado!

Nota: O primeiro vestido que fiz inspirado numa colecção de Gucci foi este aqui.


I’ve been away and busy for two weeks now… Today I was finally able to finish up this maxi-dress (no one’s summer wardrobe will be complete without a maxi-dress this season, lol!) and I also went though half of my blogroll trying to catch up on you guys (I plan on reading the remaining unread blog entries tomorrow).

Inspiration: When I saw this fabric the spring 2009 Gucci collection imediately came to mind (pictures from www.style.com)


The Gucci dresses must be made of silk voile, of course, while mine is made of the same quality slinky jersey used for my Manequim jumpsuit; the waved striped jersey looks very close to the Gucci striped pattern though.

Pattern: Burda FashionLine 515B (available for download):


The instructions are in english but I didn’t follow them; the dress looked pretty easy to put together, though I recommend extra care with the pattern markings, namely the skirt pleats, so they are even in the end and every piece matches perfectly. The recommended fabric is woven (non-stretch) but I found it equally ideal for knits.

Alterations: My fabric has some stretch so I skipped the side zipper; the shoulder straps are not crossed on the back and I left them long enough to tie a lace. I also added a self-fabric rose to the center neckline (you’ll find excellent instructions on how to make fabric roses in this article at The Sewing Divas blog: “Alternative for Real Buttons – Make a Dior Rose”).

Details:

The front bodice with the fabric rose and the gathered neckline:

The back is shirred using thin elastic (I used a method described in this video by Mimi (Myraida): she explains how to make a very simple jersey maxi-dress using your dressform. Don’t forget to support Mimi’s excellent work by making a donation, if you can). On the top edge of the back bodice I encased a 3/8 inch elastic to better adjust the back.

The bodice is entirely lined using the fashion fabric and the skirt is lined with special purpose ivory knit lining (Thanks again to Paco). Basically I cut the skirt (back and front) in lining, only 12inch shorter; stitched the side seams on the lining and fashion fabric skirts and basted the two together along the upper edge before forming the pleats:


The hem is suspended like I did for the Manequim jumpsuit (this technique seems to work fine with this slinky jersey fabric). This time I serged the two hems together after the dress was completed for being able to adjust the final length more precisely:

Side and back view:

Conclusion: I love it! I believe I succeeded on creating a fashionable maxi-dress using this beautiful fabric and I am totally in love with this dress! I hope you all like it too!

Note: Here’s my first Gucci inspired dress, if you're interested; I made it last year.

52 comments:

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Absolutely gorgeous! It definitely is a beautiful style and you will look amazing in this dress!

Mz.Choize said...

Wow!! That is stunning! What beautiful work.

Erica B. said...

That dress is incredible! The fabric is TDF! Just gorgeous!

Sew4Fun said...

Stunning dress! I always enjoy reading about your garment's internal secrets. :) Thanks for taking the time to share.

Bunny said...

Gorgeous dress, Tany. Stripes are such fun to work with.

Anonymous said...

Wow another stunner!

Angie R.

Sue said...

Great dress - I bet it feels lovely to swish about in it!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Another beautiful dress and I bet it wears wonderfully!

Shannon said...

Love that dress! The fabric is just gorgeous!

Adrienne said...

Stunning!!! I love that fabric!

Sylvie said...

Wow! This is an absolut fantastic dress, i love the colours!

Best wishes,
Sylvie

Adriana B. said...

So pretty! The colors have an almost tie-dye effect!

Catarina said...

Está muito lindo o vestido. Adorei!
o tecido é lindo e fica mt bem num vestido assim comprido.

beijinhos.

Vicki said...

Just gorgeous. The way you have used the stripes is very attractive. Love the bodice with the rose. Oh to be young and look good in a maxi dress. Not for me alas! =(

AllisonC said...

Absolutely beautiful dress, I just feel like going to a summer party now!

CORTEYGRIF said...

Espetacular
o efeito das riscas,super sexy!
amei o vestido e o degradè de cores.
Fantastica como sempre
besitos
ROSA

Celina said...

Tany, esse vestido é muito semelhante (sobretudo as cores) a um maxi que vi numa montra recentemente da Guess by Marciano. Preço? 314,99... ;) Posso dizer que esse ainda é mais bonito.

gwensews said...

Fabulous dress! You will enjoy wearing this beauty!

Alviana said...

WOW! the dress is ooo beautiful!
i love the fabric.
and it's sooooo Gucci!

Rachel said...

That dress is beautiful!!! Thank you for the link to your first Gucci-inspired dress. I am about to make that pattern.

senaSews said...

Your new dress is awesome. I LOVE it. It's the perfect fabric for this pattern!

KayB said...

Gulp... (and swallow)... gorgeous!... what more to say Tany.
Love the fabric and the way you used it.

stacysews said...

I'm in love - your dress is absolutely beautiful!

peacockchic said...

absolutely gorgeous!! Can't wait to see it modeled.

Audrey said...

Olá amiga que belo vestido adorei as cores lindo lindo.
Beijos,
Audrey

paco peralta said...

Tany, querida.- está precioso el vestido. Es verdad, conseguiste un efecto magnífico juntando los tonos obscuros. ahhh..si que te cundió el forro, le dá una terminación perfecta al vestido. enhorabuena.

hasta pronto, Paco

Olivia Claudia said...

Lindoooo!
Perfeito como tudo que sai de tuas mãos!
bjs

Adelaide B said...

This dress is amazing! So lovely.

Anne e le manine d'oro said...

Your dress is awesome! The little rose detail is adding just the right touch. The bust line is so flattering and the back seams to fit well. The back is very crucial on those dresses. I would love to see a picture of you in it ! You are patient to sew with slinky, I find that fabric very difficult to work it. Over all this is a wonderful dress. Brava !

Lory said...

It's gorgeous, Kudos!!!! You can definitely take it from day to night and it's still fab. :):):):)

Hugs,
Lory

Amanda S. said...

Great dress! I'm debating about whether or not to jump on the maxi-dress wagon. After seeing yours I just might have to give it a try. Thanks for the inspiration!

Gail said...

Wow! As usual your work is so inspiring.

Frida said...

Great fabric! Everything looks so good as usual.

Mamã Martinho said...

Este ficou lindo! Adorei o vestido e deve ficar-te muito bem.

Bjs

Mónica

Summerset said...

Stunning! The fabric is beautiful and the colors certainly fit with some of the other items you've made for spring/summer.

maria said...

O vestido está lindo, as cores são mágnificas, e vai ficar muito bem em si.

Ana Carina said...

Olá Tany,

Sabe sempre bem fazer uma pequena pausa...para recarregar baterias!

Ficou ESPECTACULAR este vestido! Adoro as cores que parecem fazer degradé (eu adoro) e o estilo com franzidos.

No entanto é um vestido que só fica bem em pessoas altas, como tu.

Beijinhos

Vicki W said...

Absolutely stunning!

nazozubus said...

Hi! I watch your blog from the greece. I write your blog in my blog list. I like your creativew very much. Im sewing too. If you want to see my blog name is http://nazozubus.blogspot.com/

laila said...

A-DO-REI... muito lindo.
Parabens, mais uma vez...

Ana's Closet said...

Uma criação simples, mas muito bonita.
Também tenho na lista de espera um vestido super comprido (Patrones 273, peça 4) mas ainda não tenho o tal tecido que me fez deitar maõs à obra!

Beijinhos!

Mary Beth said...

I really didn't think much of the Burda pattern but your version makes points I had missed. Much better! Nice job, Tany

Els said...

I can visualize you strolling along the beach wearing your beautiful made long dress.Wish we knew eachother when I visited your home town back in summer 2007.

ClaireOKC said...

Well, that does it. I have to have one of this in about two weeks, and think this is the model - love the Burda (although see the preview for June has a fabulous maxi-sundress, but alas, that will be too late). Thanks for the wonderful post and all the ideas (lining the bodice, and elastic in back - would like to make this w/o zip if possible). Your dress looks great!

Lindsay T said...

Très chic maxi dress!

Anonymous said...

Olá, Tany. Adoro seu blog e estou aprendendo muito com ele. Que pena que aqui no Brasil é difiícil encontrar os moldes da Burda. Parabéns pelos seus trabalhos.

Faye Lewis said...

What a beautiful dress! Thank you so much for helping Paco help me with my Patrones Jacket instructions!

Sew Passionista said...

A very beautiful dress. How very creative you are and what fun it is to see what you are sewing!

Dei said...

This is ridiculously gorgeous! Love your daring fabric choice.

~ Kimberlee B ~ said...

All I can say is "WOW" you go girl!

Sigrid said...

Very late in my comment, but for me too "WOW", you must be the most fashionable girl in town!

verobirdie said...

beautiful! very inspiring.