Thursday, March 5, 2009

Introdução ao fato Badgley Mischka (V1066) - Introducing the Badgley Mischka suit

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Muito obrigada pelos vossos elogios ao casaco vintage Dior! Foi um projecto que me deu muito gosto, e no qual aprendi algumas coisas novas, além de clarificar outras que já sabia.
A Carolyn e algumas de vocês perguntaram se eu iria fazer o vestido em seguida, e a resposta é não, pois gostava muito de terminar pelo menos o conjunto Baunilha e Chocolate e se ponho mãos no vestido sei que me iria tomar demasiado tempo. A primavera está a chegar e começo a ter vontade de fazer peças mais frescas… O vestido, em princípio, ficará para o fim do Verão. Entretanto até já tinha comprado uma argola dourada de 7,6cm para o cinto do vestido:

Passemos então a mostrar os projectos seguintes, que já devem conhecer da minha lista de projectos para este Outono/Inverno: o fato Vogue 1066 (jaqueta e calça Badgley Mischka), que fará parte do conjunto Baunilha e Chocolate (é a parte do Chocolate, hehe):

O tecido é misto e ligeiramente elástico, bastante resistente às engelhas. Tem um cair muito suave e é bastante macio. A cor é castanho-escura com mistura de um pouco de bege.

Na figura têm também uma das hipóteses que tinha para os botões; acabei por não usar este pois não sobressaiam no tecido e optei por outros, feitos de chifre, que correspondem à minha escolha inicial. Na altura pensei que fossem demasiado pesados (são um pouco maiores e como são curvos, pensei que não ficassem muito bem nas calças), mas depois da jaqueta a tomar forma, coloquei-os na posição e achei que seriam a melhor escolha.

Na foto seguinte podem ver também os pespontos; decidi-me por bege para acrescentar um pouco de interesse, e juntamente com os botões que têm um halo bege, quebram a monotonia do castanho. Também já fiz as casas avivadas (mais uma vez aconselho o excelente tutorial do Paco para fazerem este tipo de casas). Falta colocar a gola e depois as vistas, fazer o acabamento das casas na parte de dentro e pespontar as orlas (para os pespontos coloquei o ponto no comprimento máximo, usei uma agulha nº100, linha torçal na agulha e linha normal na bobina).

As mangas raglan da jaqueta são bastante amplas e têm um detalhe curioso em cima, no ombro: um macho pespontado (aqui não quis que os pespontos sobressaíssem e usei linha normal castanha):

Gostava de conseguir terminar a jaqueta no próximo fim-de-semana e começar com as calças, que vão dar mais trabalho. Até lá, fiquem bem!

Many thanks for your lovely comments on the Vintage Dior coat! It was a fabulous sewing experience to me and I was happy to have you all following along and sharing my interest. It was also a good learning experience: I was able to practice the fine vintage sewing methods and I enjoyed the process very much.
Carolyn asked if I was going to make the dress next, and my answer is no, not right away. I’d like to finish the Vanilla and Chocolate set while I can still wear it and springtime is approaching fast; the dress would consume a lot of time and probably I wouldn't get a chance of wearing it until next fall... So I’m putting it aside until the end of summer, in spite of already having purchased the 3" golden ring for the belt:

Let’s move on to the next project then, which some of you might already know from my fall/winter list: Vogue1066 (The Badgley Mischka pant suit), which will take part of the Vanilla and Chocolate collection:

This is a blend fabric with some stretch, and it's quite wrinkle resistant. It has a very good drape and it’s very soft to the touch. The color is dark brown with a hint of beige:

The buttons shown in the previous picture were not my final choice; I ended up not using them because it felt like they would be lost in all that brown and, in my opinion, this design needs some kind of highlight, at least with the color/fabric I’m using. I opted for my actual first choice, the concave horn buttons. When I got them I thought they would be too heavy (they are slightly bigger than required) and I couldn’t picture the smaller ones on the pants… so I bought the solid brown ones. But now, when the jacket is half done, I placed them on the placket and they look much better than the solid brown ones. I believe the smaller horn buttons will work well for the pants too, providing I don’t use too much buttons (I’m planning on keeping the ones placed on the tabs and skipping the belt carriers, perhaps).

In the next detail picture you can have a better look on the buttons and also on the topstitching. I decided to topstitch using beige buttonhole twist to add some interest to the garment and I believe this will work better with the horn buttons that also have a beige halo. I’ve also sewn the bound buttonholes (once more I advise on Paco’s excellent tutorial for this). Now I have to place the collar, then the facings, finish the buttonholes on the wrong side and topstitch the edges. As usual I’ve set the stitch length to the maximum, used a #100 needle and regular thread on the bobbin.

The raglan sleeves on this jacket are wide; on the shoulders there are pleats, which is something I don’t remember seeing on a raglan sleeve, so I’m very curious to see how the sleeves will look like when the coat is worn. I didn’t want the topstitching highlighted in this area so I used regular brown thread to topstitch the pleats down:

It would be great if by the weekend the jacket would be finished and the pants cut and marked, so I’ll do my best to achieve that goal. See you all then!

19 comments:

Adrienne said...

This is going to be stunning!!!

Erica B. said...

Your jacket is going to look great! I love the contrasting topstitching.

caseykoester said...

I understand what you mean about moving on to the projects you can wear now. I'm changing my sewing priorities, too.

This jacket is really neat! The contrast top stitching is wonderful. Can't wait to see it finished! :)

KayB said...

I have to agree, I think the two coloured horn buttons look far better and give the jacket a little lift - nice jacket, btw.

Adelaide B said...

Yeah, the horn buttons are the right choice; the brown ones would have just faded away. I also love the brown fabric. I haven't worn much brown in years, and am just waking up to the possibilities.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - thanks for answering my question. It is a stunning vintage dress and I'm sure in your capable hands will be amazing when it has it's turn in the sewing rotation.

I love your choice of buttons!

Myraida Aka Mimi said...

I left an award for you on my blog :)

Sheila said...

I have the same pattern, but too intimidated to give it a try, but looking forward to your FO. I also agree with the others I like the button choice and topstitching.

paco peralta said...

Tany.- los botones son una buena elección, de veras. Gracias por nombrar. La verdad es que pienso que este método para los ojales es bastante efectivo y queda el ojal muy bien también verticalmente (como en el caso de tu chaqueta). La chaqueta es magnífica y muy moderna. Como siempre, ya quedo impaciente por el resultado final.

Hasta pronto querida, Paco

Frida said...

I wish you good luck with your sewing, cause I would really like to see the finished jacket.

Rachel said...

That is going to be a beautiful suit. I nominated you for the Sisterhood Award.

Lori said...

Can't wait to see the finished product, it looks amazing.

Summerset said...

What interesting details - the ring and the buttons! I left an award for you on my blog, enjoy!

DianaCirne said...

Que rapidez de trabalho! Não sei como consegues! Eu adorei o casaco, muito vintage, e este novo que ai está a caminho esta a ficar também mesmo bonito, adorei os pespontos, acho que fica bem na cor contrastante.

Vicki said...

Another gorgeous suit in the making. Good luck with the sewing schedule :)

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, this is such a great style. Perfect choice for the buttons and I love the top-stitching detail!

Mamã Martinho said...

Do que se consegue ver da jaqueta, parece que é um conjunto espetacular. Fizes-te bem em trocar os botões, estes ficam bem giros. Os prespontos além de estarem muito na moda, dão um ar muito chique à jaqueta. Mais uma excelente escolha.

Bjs

Mónica

Berry said...

This suit is great, very Tany-like. The pants' details are inspiring. I can't wait to see it worn!

Ana's Closet said...

Belo conjunto Tany! E já vais bem adiantada.
Continuação de boas costuras!

Beijinhos