Monday, December 22, 2008

Jaqueta BWOF092007mod114: estrutura interior - BWOF092007mod114: inner structure

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Tenho andado um pouco “desaparecida em combate” de novo (blogs por ler, emails/comentários por responder, etc.), o que se deve ao fecho do ano no meu emprego e aos diversos jantares de Natal característicos desta época (acabo por ficar mesmo sem tempo para nada). De qualquer forma, lentamente, alguma coisa se vai fazendo cá em casa. Hoje vou mostrar alguns detalhes da estrutura interior da jaqueta que estou a confeccionar.

Temos aqui as costas, com os reforços de fita beta nas cavas e decote e a aplicação do “escudo” feito de pano cru para suportar a zona das cavas e ombros:

Podem ver que apliquei entretela de malha fina a todas as peças da jaqueta, porque este tecido é algo fino e quis dar-lhe um pouco mais de corpo. Podem ver a seguir a frente, que foi entretelada com entretela um pouco mais forte (com dupla camada nas lapelas), fita beta nas orlas, fita de algodão na linha de dobra da lapela e escudo frontal flutuante (porque só está preso na cava, ombros e parte superior da linha da dobra) feito de entretela de alfaiate:


Na foto seguinte podem ver o aspecto da jaqueta antes de aplicar as vistas:

As costas e os painéis laterais da “saia” da jaqueta, onde também tentei alinhar os quadrados da melhor forma possível:


Se tiver tempo irei mostrar alguns detalhes da cava e dos chumaços depois de pregar as mangas e antes de aplicar o forro; no entanto pode ser que não tenha tempo de escrever um artigo antes do Natal e por isso deixo desde já os votos de Feliz Natal às minhas queridas leitoras e leitores! Até já!

I’ve been MIA (Missing in Action) again (behind on my blog roll reading, email/comments replying, etc.), because it’s the closing of the year at my office and also because I’ve been attending to Christmas dinner celebrations almost every evening, which leaves me with no time left. My sewing progress is slow but I have a few construction details to share with my readers.

Here we have the back, neckline and armholes reinforced with beta tape; I was just about to hand baste the back shield in place when I took this picture:

As you may have noticed, I interlined the jacket with thin knit fusible because this fabric needs a little extra support if used for a jacket. Next you can see the front, interfaced with a slightly stiffer fusible interfacing (woven in this case), double layer on the lapels, beta tape fused to the edges and armholes, floating shoulder shield (floating because it hangs from the shoulders, armholes and the top of the roll line) and cotton twill tape hand sewn to the roll line:


Here you can see the front and lapels before stitching the facings in place:

The back view and the peplum, where I tried my best for a good plaid alignment:


If I get some free time before Christmas I’ll try to show you some details of the armhole (shoulder pads, sleeve heads) right after setting in the sleeve and just before attaching the lining to the jacket; just to be safe, I leave you now with my Merry Christmas Wishes! See you soon!

13 comments:

Adrienne said...

It is looking superb!!!

Merry Christmas to you Tany!

Vicki W said...

Have a very Merry Chritmas and thank you for sharing so much with us through your blog. Even though I don't make garments anymore, I find everythng you do to be very educational and inspiring.

Lory said...

You're a pro at aligning the plaids. :):):):) It's looking very pretty.

I hope you have a great holiday.

Hugs from the U.S.

Lory

Vicki said...

Tany, it is looking good - perfect plaid matching! Have a merry Christmas and thanks for all the great posts over the year :)

Erica B. said...

Tany,
It looks great! Fabulous job on the plaid alignment!

AllisonC said...

merry Christmas to you too. The jacket is looking fabulous, thank you for showing the inside details. I love the changes in plaid direction on the front especially.

KayB said...

First a Merry Christmas to you, too. Love what you did with the plaid jacket so far - it's a hard job to match the plaids perfectly.

Oficina das Linhas said...

Olá Tany!

Já se passou um tempinho sem vir espreitar, o tempo anda curto e estica pouco, mas não podia deixar passar a oportunidade de te desejar um Santo e Feliz Natal!!!!

Beijinhos,
Carmen

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, Have a Very Merry Christmas!
Thank you for sharing so much of your work.There is always something to learn. Your jacket looks wonderful so far. Perfect matching :)

Summerset said...

Merry Christmas to you! Your jacket will be wonderful - I love the placement of the plaid on the hip.

Joyce said...

As always you do such great work!! I can hardly wait to see the finished project. Have a Merry Christmas.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Thank you so much for sharing the process with us...I am totally fascinated by your tailoring abilities!!

Have a very Merry Christmas!!!

Digifreebieslist-CreativeBusyHands said...

Lindo, como sempre. Because of you, I will try to make a jacket again! Your pictures are so nice. It sure gives me courage to try. Thanks for sharing.