Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Calças largas de xadrez Burda092008mod105A – BWOF082008mod105A: Masculine style plaid pants

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Descrição: Calças de corte masculino têm cós com encaixe na anca com passadeiras, bolsos nas costuras laterais, um bolso avivado atrás e fecho com carcela.

Modelo original (BurdaFashion):

A minha inspiração para estas calças (além dos vários modelos semelhantes vistos nas passerelles) veio de um modelo da Mango que me agradou bastante:

No entanto, quando as experimentei verifiquei que não me assentavam bem e então decidi fazer umas calças no mesmo estilo, mas à minha medida e ao meu gosto.

Detalhes:

Bolso avivado atrás:

Do avesso:


Não se esqueçam de reforçar com entretela o local da abertura do bolso antes de o costurar! Neste caso o bolso atravessa uma pinça, por isso cose-se e assenta-se a pinça a ferro antes de aplicar a tira de entretela:

Bolsos metidos na costura lateral:

A carcela:


Como viram fiz todos os acabamentos com a corta-e-cose e não me preocupei em forrar as calças para diminuir as engelhas; este tecido simplesmente não engelha! As fotos de mim com as calças foram tiradas depois de um dia sentada na secretária!

Detalhes da frente e de trás das calças:


Conclusão: Acho que seria difícil encontrar umas calças que me ficassem tão bem como estas; o mérito não é meu, pois não modifiquei nada no molde; este modelo de calças da Burda simplesmente assenta-me que nem uma luva!

Bem, agora tenho de terminar a jaqueta de xadrez, o que vai levar algum tempo. Até à próxima!


Description: Masculine style pants have shaped waistband with belt carriers, side-seam pockets and back welt pocket and fly-front zipper.

Original model (BurdaFashion):

The inspiration for these pants (besides the same style pants seen in several fashion shows) came from some RTW Mango pants that caught my eye immediately:

I went to the local Mango store and tried the pants on, only to discover that they didn’t fit right on me. Feeling glad I could sew, I decided then to make my own masculine plaid pants, hoping to achieve a better fit and a similar look.

Details:

Back welt pocket:

On the wrong side:


If you make this pocket don’t forget to reinforce the opening place with interfacing! In this case the pocket crosses a dart and the dart is stitched and pressed (also very important) before fusing the interfacing on.

The side-seam pockets:

The fly-front zipper:


I did all the inside finishing with my serger and I didn’t bother lining these pants because this fabric is wrinkle free (Yay!). The pictures of me wearing the pants were taken after a day sitting at my desk in the office!

Front and back detail:


Conclusion: I think it would be difficult to get a better fit than this, for this style of pants. The merit isn’t mine because I didn’t do a single adjustment to the pattern; it fits like a glove right as is!

Now I must work on the plaid jacket; it will take some time until it's finished. See you next time!

36 comments:

senaSews said...

Tany, your pants are even better then the one from Mango. You managed the plaids so well. I love your "orange extravaganza" collection!

Sigrid said...

Your orange collection is really nice. And I like these pants better than the Mango (but that's also personal preference for the kind of plaid). And pants fitting without a single alteration: keep this pattern in a safe place! Great fit, beautiful pants.

Elaray said...

You always get such an amazing fit! These pants look fabulous on you!

(And, welcome back!)

toy said...

well, this can most definitely be your TNT pattern. It really does fit like a glove, once again, the plaid is gorgeous, I will have to go back to see what jacket you decided to make for this

Vicki W said...

A perfect pant pattern - how sweet is that! They look fantastic on you!

Lori said...

Those are great fitting pants and super-great looking. Nice job again, Tany.

Adrienne said...

Girl these pants are TDF!!! LOVE the plaid!

cidell said...

I MUST have these pants! They are BRILLIANT!!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Beautiful fit! I absolutely love your orange collection...every piece is beautifully made... every single line matches up - your work is amazing :)

Amanda S. said...

I love these also. I was wondering how that pattern sewed up. It looked a little baggy in the magazine, but on you the fit is perfect. Now I've got to have a pair as well!

Ana Carina said...

Quantas novidades!!!

Começo pelo fim...
...Adoro este estilo de calças!
Ficam-te muito bem e já estás a causar-me "inveja" com a tua "extravagância cor-de-laranja".

Está a ficar LINDO!

Beijinhos

Dawn said...

These are wonderful! I love the plaids and the matching is perfect!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Tany - these pieces are making an amazing wardrobe! I love, love, love how the plaids meet everywhere...as usual you can see the care and time you took to get this to work!

Christina said...

Is there anything better cooler than plaid pants? I don't think so. Very nice!!

Laila said...

Muito bom! Adorei o caimento...
Se tivesse seu corpo com certeza faria uma...
Parabens!

Susan said...

Fabulous! You do wonderful work.

Emily said...

Fab pants. I must check out that pattern!

Erica B. said...

The pants fit great! I agree, these should be your TNT pants!

Adriana B. said...

Just perfect... I don't even have words to desrobe the worksmasship on these!

Lindsay T said...

These are much nicer than any pants you can buy at Mango! (We only have 20 Mango stores here in the US; one just opened in NYC.)

oasis said...

Super your pants!

Vicki said...

How beautifully made these are! They look perfect on you. Looking forward to the jacket ;)

Reethi said...

Tany, these pants are just perfect! Amazing work!

Lory said...

The fit is awesome! And you matched those plaids to perfection. I haven't dealt with plaids because they're scary to me, but you make it seem effortless. Great job my friend, welcome back!

Hugs, and more hugs :):):):)
Lory

Summerset said...

Those are some great hot looking trousers! You look great!

Ana'scloset said...

É espantoso, como consegues fazer trabalhos tão bons em tão pouco tempo! E alguns bem trabalhosos!
Ficaram mesmo bem!

Beijinhos

CORTEYGRIF said...

Que ricas ferias Tany
nao largaste a maquina hem!!
esse tecido è lindissimo,e o padrao e corte das calçasfica te lindamente!
a saia de pregas tambem esta lindissima muito elegante mesmo.
parabens amiga
sempre a surpreendernos!
Ha o carinho tu mereces,quem te manda ser perfeccionista!
boa semana
besitos

Miss Sewing said...

Hola Tany,
el pantalon es precioso, con un corte muy elegante. La tela de cuadros es muy bonita, y con la rebeca caldera me imagino que quedará genial, no?. Por lo que veo para estas Navidades vas a tener unos conjuntitos de estreno,jejeje.
Besos
Ana

Sue said...

Yummy!

Sheila said...

The pants came out great and you were able to match up the plaids perfectly.

Mamã Martinho said...

Fabulosas! Assentam-te na perfeição!

bjs

Mónica

Celina said...

Perfeitas! Sabes que eu também fiquei de olho nessas calças da Mango? Há que tempos que quero umas calças largas em xadrez. Se calhar devia meter mãos à obra... Mas a carcela e a parte de conjugar as riscas ainda me assustam...
Beijinhos

paco peralta said...

Tany.- con todas estas novedades, ya llevo un rato largo admirando tantas cosas bonitas. Bueno, la falda y el pantalón están "super", el bolero fantástico y la sorpresa de este collar de auténtica diva. La verdad es que tanto el patrón de la falda como el del pantalón sientan estupendos, pero no creo que sea cuestión de suerte, sino de que hay una buena "modelo". Disfruta de todo. Un abrazo, Paco.

Linda said...

Great job, but I am always impressed with what you create. I am not a fan of plaids for myself. But these pants look great on you and almost makes me want to try something in plaid. Truly a nice fitting pair of pants.

Cennetta said...

Nice trousers. Great pocket treatment.

LauraLo said...

Love them and the fabric is so great. Can't wait to see the jacket. And oh, your workmanship is impeccable as always, my dear friend!