Sunday, July 20, 2008

Top Alberta Ferretti (Patrones #267 mod18)

Português
English (uncheck the other box and check this one)

Quando recebi de presente esta seda azul-marinho do Paco e um pequeno resto de um tecido bordado a missangas e lantejoulas, ambos usados pelo Paco para fazer este fato magnífico, soube logo que iria fazer um top. Inicialmente, a ideia era fazer o top do molde V2923, mas quando vi este top lindíssimo feito pela Summerset, soube imediatamente que o queria fazer e que também poderia aproveitar o resto de tecido de lantejoulas e missangas para a gola (para o top Vogue escolhi outro tecido, seda bege, e vou faze-lo a seguir):

Modificações ao modelo original: Na revista a foto do modelo não o mostra de frente e o desenho técnico não mostra qualquer costura no meio da frente; qual foi a minha surpresa ao ver o plano de corte e constatar que o top deveria ser cortado em viés e ter uma costura no meio da frente. Observando o top da Summerset vi que ela omitiu a costura do meio da frente e então resolvi fazer o mesmo. Além disso não antevi qualquer vantagem em cortar o top em viés para este modelo, por isso cortei-o no correr do fio, com a frente cortada na dobra para eliminar a suposta costura. Na confecção do modelo não segui as instruções para a confecção da gola da Patrones; entretelei ambas as partes da gola (exterior e interior) com entretela de malha fininha e na exterior apliquei uma segunda camada de entretela; além disso, as duas camadas de entretela para a gola exterior foram cortadas sem valores de costura. Depois, quanto à aplicação da gola segui também um método diferente, cosendo primeiro a gola exterior à parte da frente e só depois a gola interior à gola exterior. Depois de voltada para o lado direito, a gola interior é cosida à mão à frente do lado do avesso.

Só depois do top terminado é que forrei a gola com o tecido de lantejoulas e missangas; o pedaço de tecido não foi suficiente para a gola e tive que emendar, fazendo costuras invisíveis à mão. A gola em tecido de lantejoulas é depois aplicada sobre a gola do top primeiro com alfinetes, virando as margens para dentro, e depois cosida à mão com pontos invisíveis; acho que o efeito final ficou muito bonito:


Do avesso pode-se ver a vista das costas e a etiqueta; as orlas das vistas e das costuras foram rematadas com a corta-e-cose, usando fio de alta qualidade Serafil. Na máquina de costura normal usei fio de poliéster e uma agulha tamanho 60 (o mais fino que há). Grande parte do acabamento deste top foi feito à mão.

Mais vistas do top:

Conclusão: Uma peça de muito requinte, pelos tecidos, design e execução. Adorei o resultado, e creio que nunca me vou fartar de usar este top, que é da cor favorita da minha mãe! Mais uma vez, o meu grande obrigada ao Paco, pela sua generosidade ao enviar-me estes tecidos!

Entretanto estou de férias e vou tentar aproveitar o máximo de tempo para descansar e fazer praia. É claro que vou costurando sempre qualquer coisinha, mas talvez tenham de esperar até aos fins-de-semana para verem o que tenho feito! Até lá!


When I received this navy blue silk and a little remnant of this outstanding sequined fabric as a gift from Paco (see the model he created out of these fabulous fabrics here) I knew right along that I wanted to make a top out of it. My first thought was making the V2923 top, but when I laid eyes on this gorgeous looking top made by Summerset I knew this was the one because I could use the little remnant of sequined fabric for the collar (I still want to make the V2923 top, but I’ll use beige silk satin instead):

Modifications to the original model: In the magazine there isn’t a clear view of the model and the technical drawing doesn’t show any central front seam so I was surprises to see on the cutting layout that this top was supposed to be cut on the bias and has a CF seam. Observing Summerset’s smart version of this top I could see she omitted this CF seam so I opted for doing the same; besides I can’t see the point of cutting this top (as for this pleated style) on the bias so I cut the front on the fold, on the straight grain. Other things I did differently was interfacing both the inner and outer collar with thin knit fusible but fusing an extra layer on the outer collar (on top of the first fused layer). I also omitted the SAs on the outer collar interfacing, to reduce bulk. The collar was applied differently, first stitching the outer collar to the front and only then joining the inner collar (right sides together with the outer collar, stitching the upper edges and the armhole sections together and then turning the collar to the right side through the left open seam on the inside front, which was then finished turning the allowances to the inside and stitching them by hand)

After the top was finished I stitched the sequined collar by hand to the collar. The sequined fabric wasn’t enough for cutting the collar as one piece so I had to amend the fabric by hand with invisible stitches; you can’t notice this at all on this fabric and I was able to outer-line the collar completely as if it was a single piece of fabric. After cutting the collar on the sequined fabric, I pinned it to the collar, turning the allowances to the inside along the collar edges and using my dressform so the collar wouldn’t distort. I then took the top out of the dressform and stitched the sequined collar all by hand.


On the inside you can see here the back facing and my label. All the allowances and inner edges were serged using high quality matching thread (Serafil); on the Sewing Machine I used a very thin needle (#60) and polyester thread. All the other finishing details were made by hand (like tacking down the back facing to the collar seams and armhole facings, for example).

More views of the top:

Conclusion: A very refined wardrobe piece, because of the high quality fabrics/notions used and its style. I really love it, the style lines, the color, everything. This is my mother’s favorite color so I know she will covet this piece! Once again my deepest thanks to Paco for his generosity, I hope he approves this top that I made with his lovely gifts!

In the meanwhile, I am on vacation (finally!) and I want to make the most of my time going to the beach and resting but I’ll be making some garments on the side too! During my two week vacation time I will be posting weekly updates on weekends, so until then, have fun guys!

42 comments:

Adrienne said...

I'll say it again, this is simply stunning! Love this top!
Enjoy your time at the beach!!

paco peralta said...

Tany.- "obrigado" a tí, y me alegro mucho de que hayas podido sacar esta prenda tan bonita. El collar está "perfecto", de veras y la blusa en general es magnífica. Summerset estará feliz también. Mis felicitaciones. Abrazos, Paco

stacysews said...

It's gorgeous! I love everything about this top - especially the trim. Wonderful job.

Celina said...

Que LINDO!!! Adoro! Tudo. Modelo, cor e tecidos. Concordo contigo: essa peça vai ser intemporal. A simplicidade com requinte nunca passa de moda.
Beijinhos e boas férias (entre a praia e a máquina de costura, aproveita!!)

peacockchic said...

absolutely gorgeous as always. You simply amaze me!! and the color is divine!! Love it

Erica B. said...

That top is stunning! Your label is right... very couture!

Vicki W said...

Very elegant and what a great use of the sequined fabric! Enjoy your vacation!

KayB said...

First: enjoy your holiday, Secondly: as alway, the top is stunning. I have to admit that I'm always weary of patterns who have a middle front seam. I find it neither stylish nor appropriate so therefore I also would have eliminated it. I think the fall of the fabric is still great, even though you didn't cut it on the bias.

Alexandra said...

Absolutely gorgeous! The fabrics are fabulous!
Enjoy the beach!

Shannon said...

Beautiful top - the collar makes this top looks so amazing!!

Sylvie said...

What a beautiful top! The colour and the pattern is perfectly wonderful.

Best wishes
Sylvie

Sigrid said...

Beautiful as always. Enjoy your vacation, hope you have summer in Portugal.

toy said...

so beautiful, the simple lines will make this top a long lasting piece in your wardrobe

macati said...

ficou lindo! adooooro esta cor!
:)
ainda nao me esqueci dos brincos...

Vicki said...

As soon as I saw the first photo I knew it must have been Paco's fabric. Stunnng!! Amazing what you can do with just a little bit of special fabric.

Enjoy your vacation. Sounds more relaxing than mine :)

Ambitious Sewer said...

The top is completely striking, the use of fabric’s is exceptionally brilliant!!!!

Ana'scloset said...

Muito giro! Realmente a Patrones não indica nos desenhos os fechos... mas alguns ja são previsíveis. Foi uma boa opção não aderires ao fecho da frente.

Deve ter-te dado um trabalhão as partes em que coses-te à mão, é tão demoroso... Mas ficou muito perfeitinho!

Boas férias! bem precisas de descansar, aproveita!

Beijinhos

designdreamer said...

That is gorgeous! I had to go look again, at Paco's creation using that beautiful sequined fabric, and there I found a creation he had made for a financee! I DO use the English translation function on his blog, but it's still not always easy to understand. Is it Paco's fiancee?
Since the fabric is gathered in the front, I don't understand the use of bias either, and I think a seam down the front would have compromised the look.
Have fun on the beach, you deserve it.

AllisonC said...

What a fantastic use of a small but special piece of fabric. Have a wonderful vacation!

Katrin said...

What a beautiful top. The collar makes it so special. This is one of my favourite colours too and I am coveting it, too ;-).
Have a nice holiday!
Best wishes,
Katrin

LauraLo said...

Tany, this is simply gorgeous! I'm coveting it too. The fabric(s), the colour, the design, your impeccable work... Bravo, this is a great piece, so elegant and young at the same time!

Mamã Martinho said...

O top é magnifico! Gostei imenso do modelo da Vougue também e sei que vai ficar muito giro.
Entretanto aproveita bem as tuas férias, eu venho cá espreitar sempre que posso!

bjs

Mónica

CORTEYGRIF said...

A senhorita nao està de ferias??
o lindo tecido do Paco,e o modelo que eligiste na confecçao fez uma peça lindissima,nem se nota que fizeste emendas perfeito!
uma alegria para os dois,ele vè o bom uso que deste ao tecido,e tu te sentes acarinhada e bela com ele!!
agora a ver se aproveitas o sol,e descansas,devo ir a Portugal em Agosto hummmmmm!!!
continuaçao de umas merecidas ferias
bjs
ROSA

nowaks nähkästchen said...

So beautifull! And worth any handstitch!

(Have fun on the beach!)

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Tany, you are amazing! This top is beautiful, not only because the fabric is beautiful and a special gift from a special friend but because you put your whole heart and passion into every piece and - it shows.
"Muito obrigada" for posting so often and with such detail :)

Anynha Crochê said...

Olá Amiga!!!

Quando tiveres uma lágrima de tristeza, parte-a ao meio, dá-me metade e chorarei contigo. Quando eu tiver um sorriso de alegria dou-te inteiro só para te ver feliz!

Desejo a vc um maravilhoso restinho de semana

Bjuss...

Anynha Crochê said...

Desejo a vc uma maravilhosa semana
errei acima

nile santos said...

Olá querida amiga.A ídéi de omitir a costura e da gola foi excelente.Veleu.Ficou lindo.bjtos.Nile.

melissa said...

Absolutely gorgeous! What a perfect marriage of those two fabrics!

Tany said...

Obrigada a todas!
Thank you all!

designerdreamer: Thank you! Do you mean the bride's dress? She and her mother are just good friends with Paco, I'm not aware if he has a fiancee :). He does beautiful work, and wait until you see the other wedding dress (the one you saw was for the civil ceremony)!

Christina said...

Beautiful top Tany, enjoy wearing it! And have a great vacation :)

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Wow! Two weeks vacation and sewing...*sigh* The top is stunning!

bETH said...

Tany, maravilhoso como sempre!
Agora precisas fazer um modelo da revista Manequim que sua amiga mandou. Pode ser aquele vestido lindo da capa.
Boas férias!
BJS

Nina said...

WOW! Just gorgeous.

Miss Sewing said...

Gracias por tu visita Tany. Rosa me recomend� que te visitara y quiero decirte que me gustan muchos tus proyectos.
Saludos Ana

Isabelle said...

Tany, this is an outstanding piece! I love everything about it... This is my favourite colour as well and I just adore it!
You've inspired me... I should really make more "special" and glamorous tops like this. Not just everyday tops.

I bet you look amazing in it!

SO glad to hear you're on holiday, at last! What a well-deserved and much-needed holiday this is for you. Make the most of it, my dear friend. My own holidays are still some time away, but every hour of intense work gets me closer to them :) I am in Amsterdam at the moment and vow to finish my thesis and another paper here!

Lots of hugs!

Jamie said...

Everything you make is stunning, but this top is truly breathtaking!!

Marji said...

The top is beautiful, and impeccably constructed. The color and the fabric is well suited to you. What a lovely gift from Paco.

designdreamer said...

Thanks Tany,
Can't wait to see the other one now! And can't wait to see what you create next either!

Tany said...

Miss Sewing: Gracias tambien a ti por tu visita y bien venida a Couture et Tricot!

Isabelle: My dearest friend, I'm glad to hear that you are together with your most loved Seb and I hope you are able to relax a little from work! Many hugs to you!

Jamie: Thank you and welcome to Couture et Tricot!

Obrigada a todas!
Gracias a todos!
Thank you all!

Cennetta said...

OMG! That top is exquisite.

Ana Carina said...

Olá Tany...Que saudades de ver os teus belos modelitos!

Esta blusa é só GLAMOUR GLAMOUR! Ficou linda a gola com o tecido bordado com lantejoulas...

Muito vaporosa e como sempre, muito bem feitinha!